Thread: Brake Upgrades
View Single Post
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2007, 01:15 PM
03DSM-RSX's Avatar
03DSM-RSX 03DSM-RSX is offline
Frequent FitFreak Poster
iTrader: (0)
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston
Posts: 701
Rep Power: 7
03DSM-RSX has a spectacular aura about03DSM-RSX has a spectacular aura about
Send a message via AIM to 03DSM-RSX
Quote:
Originally Posted by claymore View Post
Try reading this one of many. Here's a little starter quote from page 2

"One thing we see debated all the time is the concept of drilled rotors. Back in the day, brake pads generated quite a bit of out-gassing during heavy use, and the holes would help keep this gas from interfering with the pad-to-rotor contact. Modern pad technology has pretty much gotten rid of these gases, so why are the holes still there? The simple answer is that they look really cool. But, this bitchin' look comes at a price. If not done right, the holes are a recipe for cracking when subject to heavy use. Under hard driving, every hole can become a new place for a crack to form."

Try reading the whole series to get yourself up to date. Do a little looking and there more just like this one for your reading pleasure.

Braking Systems - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
lol your attempts are futile.

even they state that under "severe/heavy duty use" that its prone to cracking. we're talking about daily drivers here. stop n go driving, braking after 1/4mi drag racing will not bring the rotors to such danger zone. road racing is the where the brake system is really put to the test.

you need to read your own source:
For a street car that occasionally sees open-track days, there is no problem in using a properly engineered drilled rotor. You want to make sure the rotor was designed to be drilled, was drilled correctly, and that the holes have been at least chamfered to minimize stress and wear. If you plan on hitting the track a lot and really punishing your brakes, then you will be better served to forego the holes and run a solid rotor. Besides cracking, rotors are also subject to heat-checking, which is the precursor to cracking. Heat checks are very small cracks on the surface of the rotor caused by thermal stress. While they are not a cause for concern (yet), they do indicate that the disc is not getting adequate cooling and are a warning sign that cracks may follow.

if you're gona try to give advice, i suggest you just post up that link in the beginning instead of stating your opinion. ppl are better off knowing about the brake subject as a WHOLE. HAHAHA your "source" is proving me right. thanks!
__________________
"Neg-rep'd by Claymore" Crew
03 DSM RSX Base Automatic-287whp/240wtq.....new build this summer
05 RS 1.0 TRD S/C tC - 283whp/200wtq 12psi + 35 dry shot
06 WDP TL A-Spec
07 VBP Fit Sport Auto-Totaled
07 WDP RDX w/ Technology Pkg
08 Vapor Metallic Saleen Mustang S281 3-Valve #25
08 Ford Expedition EL XLT

Last edited by 03DSM-RSX; 01-08-2007 at 02:20 PM.
Reply With Quote