Engine starting problem
#1
Engine starting problem
A couple of days ago, I bought a 2007 Fit (base model, manual trans) with 39,000 miles on it. It runs great, seems to have been taken care of, but sometimes won't start. I've read about the key light and am wondering if it's the engine immobilizer and if anyone else has has this experience.
When I put the key in, depress the brake and clutch, the key light comes on but does not blink. When I turn the key, the engine won't start but all the normal dash lights come on and the key light begins to blink. After removing the key, the key light continues to blink several more times then goes off. Sometimes it takes two or three tries to get the engine to start. Naturally, it didn't do this when I was test driving it at the dealership. LOL
I suppose the good news is, if it's an immobilizer malfunction, key issue or for that matter, anything that requires repair this quickly, the dealership ~should~ make good on it.
Has anyone had anything like this with their Fit?
When I put the key in, depress the brake and clutch, the key light comes on but does not blink. When I turn the key, the engine won't start but all the normal dash lights come on and the key light begins to blink. After removing the key, the key light continues to blink several more times then goes off. Sometimes it takes two or three tries to get the engine to start. Naturally, it didn't do this when I was test driving it at the dealership. LOL
I suppose the good news is, if it's an immobilizer malfunction, key issue or for that matter, anything that requires repair this quickly, the dealership ~should~ make good on it.
Has anyone had anything like this with their Fit?
#2
Yes, it could be the key and lock sensor.
It is not an easy or cheap fix.
If it keeps doing so, first attempt getting a new key from the dealership.
Often a new key will solve the problem.
The repacement of the lock is expensive.
Honda has a problem here, I wish they would man up tp it.
Gregg
It is not an easy or cheap fix.
If it keeps doing so, first attempt getting a new key from the dealership.
Often a new key will solve the problem.
The repacement of the lock is expensive.
Honda has a problem here, I wish they would man up tp it.
Gregg
#3
Engine immobilizer the problem ???
This happened twice (2007 Fit Sport), yesterday and about two months ago.
Two months ago: Sitting in parking lot, ignition in Accessory, listening to radio, after only a few minutes Radio shuts down, LED goes blank. Try to start. Just the dreaded clicking sound. Passerby gives me a jump. Starts right up.
Drive to a auto parts store that uses instrument to diagnose. Battery OK, Altenator OK. I program radio code, set clock. Everything back to normal.
Yesterday: Ignition in Accessory, listening to CD. Radio shuts down, LED goes into a jumble, but clock remains on. Car will not start. Get a jump, starts right up. Trip to different auto parts store, same results. Battery good, alternator good.
Today, reviewing the Fit Manual, I find the 'Immobilizer System'. Would a malfunctioning Immobilizer cause my problem? Or Key battery? Or what?
(Just joined Fitfreak and could not determine how to make an Original post.)
Two months ago: Sitting in parking lot, ignition in Accessory, listening to radio, after only a few minutes Radio shuts down, LED goes blank. Try to start. Just the dreaded clicking sound. Passerby gives me a jump. Starts right up.
Drive to a auto parts store that uses instrument to diagnose. Battery OK, Altenator OK. I program radio code, set clock. Everything back to normal.
Yesterday: Ignition in Accessory, listening to CD. Radio shuts down, LED goes into a jumble, but clock remains on. Car will not start. Get a jump, starts right up. Trip to different auto parts store, same results. Battery good, alternator good.
Today, reviewing the Fit Manual, I find the 'Immobilizer System'. Would a malfunctioning Immobilizer cause my problem? Or Key battery? Or what?
(Just joined Fitfreak and could not determine how to make an Original post.)
#5
This happened twice (2007 Fit Sport), yesterday and about two months ago.
Two months ago: Sitting in parking lot, ignition in Accessory, listening to radio, after only a few minutes Radio shuts down, LED goes blank. Try to start. Just the dreaded clicking sound. Passerby gives me a jump. Starts right up.
Drive to a auto parts store that uses instrument to diagnose. Battery OK, Altenator OK. I program radio code, set clock. Everything back to normal.
Yesterday: Ignition in Accessory, listening to CD. Radio shuts down, LED goes into a jumble, but clock remains on. Car will not start. Get a jump, starts right up. Trip to different auto parts store, same results. Battery good, alternator good.
Today, reviewing the Fit Manual, I find the 'Immobilizer System'. Would a malfunctioning Immobilizer cause my problem? Or Key battery? Or what?
(Just joined Fitfreak and could not determine how to make an Original post.)
Two months ago: Sitting in parking lot, ignition in Accessory, listening to radio, after only a few minutes Radio shuts down, LED goes blank. Try to start. Just the dreaded clicking sound. Passerby gives me a jump. Starts right up.
Drive to a auto parts store that uses instrument to diagnose. Battery OK, Altenator OK. I program radio code, set clock. Everything back to normal.
Yesterday: Ignition in Accessory, listening to CD. Radio shuts down, LED goes into a jumble, but clock remains on. Car will not start. Get a jump, starts right up. Trip to different auto parts store, same results. Battery good, alternator good.
Today, reviewing the Fit Manual, I find the 'Immobilizer System'. Would a malfunctioning Immobilizer cause my problem? Or Key battery? Or what?
(Just joined Fitfreak and could not determine how to make an Original post.)
The battery should be able to power the radio for awhile and still start the car, assuming it's in good shape (as it tested to be) and is fully charged to begin with. If you have made a lot of short trips previously, it may have a hard time getting fully charged. If you have other things on with the radio, especially the headlights, that will discharge the battery more quickly. The Fit's battery doesn't have an enormous amount of extra reserve power compared to many other cars. If you have the original battery still, it's very likely near or at the end of its expected life, and that could well be the reason it's giving you troubles.
The immobilizer will cause the key light on the dashboard to illuminate and keep the engine from running. Normally, the key light will flash only very quickly when you first turn the ignition on before the computer verifies the key's digital code. (I don't think the immobilizer prevents the engine from cranking—it just prevents the fuel injectors from injecting and the spark plugs from sparking, so the engine won't run. I may be mistaken about that, though.)
#8
I think I may have the longest lasting OEM battery of any Fit. My car was purchased in July of 2006 and is still strong. Car had been sitting on jack stands for 21 months without being started. I charged the battery, turned the key and it instantly started.. It sounds real good too.
#10
Fit not responding to Keyless Entry, not unlocking, not moving ignition switch
just use the conventional key at driver's door, turn the key left, now remove the key. Pull the door hatch up and open the door. Now open the bonnet hatch. Connect external jumpstart battery with similar nodes + n - CAR will make alarms. Start the vehicle, disconnect external battery. Run the car idle for 20 mins to get internal battery charged sufficiently to move on. Later get the battery checked from the workshop for maintainance. Thx
#11
just use the conventional key at driver's door, turn the key left, now remove the key. Pull the door hatch up and open the door. Now open the bonnet hatch. Connect external jumpstart battery with similar nodes + n - CAR will make alarms. Start the vehicle, disconnect external battery. Run the car idle for 20 mins to get internal battery charged sufficiently to move on. Later get the battery checked from the workshop for maintainance. Thx
#12
I've noticed in the past, that if you have 2 keys with similar chips, sometimes if both are against the steering column it ticks off the VATS/ESW and won't start, I used to have a pair of BMWS same year and I had to keep the keys on one of those divide-able rings..
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