Thanks.

Let us know how well that gauge works.

 

So was the guage pretty easy to use? I moved back up north and wanna do thru my fit before winter hits.

 

Not good. The krikit gauge requires about five inches of clear belt length to get a reading. I couldn't place the gauge in the narrow confines. Therefore if you need a gauge you may need to find the dial style which is much more expensive.

However I did use the twist to flat method to feel whether it was tight enough, but what the hell do I know? I've never done this before. Still it's been two years and the belt seems fine. No skipping, slipping our noise.

 

I have bought a replacement belt, but I haven't done this job yet. When I do, I'll be in the "what the hell do I know" school of auto repair, like this guy.

All I can say is: It sure is tight on that side of the engine. Not much room.

 

Yea I mean it's not micrometer precision it's just a fricken belt. As long as it's not so tight it's destroying the belt drive accessories, or to loose that it comes off or slips. What is the twist to flat method?

 

^^^ That is the old-time criteria for proper tension.



The twist method was mentioned earlier in the Topic. You grab the belt and try to twist it 90 degrees.


Of course, this depends on the length of the belt run that you are twisting. Obviously, the shorter the run, the less it will twist.

The twister needs to have developed a "feel" for it.




Besides the Krikit tensioner tool, some folks nowadays use a frequency spec to tension belts. The frequency depends on the length of the belt run, and the belt's composition. I've never seen a frequency spec published for the Fit, though.


I recently tensioned a timing belt using my IPhone and an app called Epic Guitar Tuner. You just strum the belt and look for a certain frequency on the phone...

 

^^I guess that brings us back to the saying, "They got an app. for that."


Nicely done, 'Buff.

 

When I installed a KWSC kit I adjusted my belt tight enough that it didn't slip and squeal. I had to readjust in after the break in mileage and it has been fine for over 22000 miles.. That's the way I've done it for almost fifty years.

 

I just did my belt at 102K miles. The old belt didn't show any signs of imminent failure but it was time. The old belt was discolored and fraying a little bit along one side.

 

Remains of the factory belt
My belt disintegrated today at 80mph on the highway with 10 years and 133,000 miles on it. Don't know how I forgot to change it at 100,000 miles but I'll never let one go longer than 5 years or 100,000 miles.

After it came loose, I heard a noise like I'd run over something--I thought it was a tumbleweed stuck under my car. The belt was wrapped around a half-shaft and whacking the underbody pan.

When I saw my battery idiot light come on I pulled off on the shoulder. About that time the temp idiot light came on and I turned off the engine. I was an hour from home and at least that far from a repair shop or parts store.

A friend bought a replacement belt and brought it and my socket sets to me. We got the belt replaced with just my 1/4 and 3/8 drive set of metric sockets. A few extensions would have made things much easier. We didn't have a tensioner tool so we loosened the adjuster on the alternator all the way and used the lug wrench to rotate the crankshaft while working the belt onto the crankshaft pulley. Not a fun job but learned MANY lessons and thank goodness no engine harm done.

 

I have 195k on mine getting ready to change it because of the mileage and the d fact it's a 2008 tension is still OK amazed the dealer never pushed the issue until last year they did all my oil changes with courtesy inspection. (Talked them into free oil changes for life when I bought the car)

 

+1 repeat,,,
Its a 20 minute job, Loosen alternator, 3 bolts with adjuster, take the under tray off and use a set of ramps and from under-neath its easy to thread the belt on.

I tighten them when there is no spring adjuster until I can barely twist the belt 1/4 turn on the longest free segment. There is more room on that end of the motor than it looks like when you go from the bottom side. I swap the belts when the ribs start checking or about 70K whichever comes first.

 

Just did mine this weekend. Super easy.

 

You did this by the side of the road?

 

What year is your Fit, Josh?

 

I am interested in serpentine belt tension adjustment for a 2007 sport fit. The honda tool is over $200.00. I am not interested in that. I searched for a generic brand and only found adjusters for timing belts. I am almost ready to just eyeball it. Adjustment for a new belt would be not more then a 1/4 inch. The manual says new belts to apply 22 1b f between crank pulley and A/C, the flexion should measure 0.14inc tp 0.20 in on the honda tool # 07JGG-0010100 Does anyone have good sugestions? I do not want to have bad barrings because of too tight of a belt. thank you

 

MY fit is a 07. See above,, No issues.. since we don't have a auto-tensioner its a manual tension, the 1/4 twist method on the longest free run of the belt works.. They actually twist easy up until 1/4 turn when you have it tight.. You can always use a fish scale to tug on the belt and it should take 22lbs to get about 1/2 inch deflection if I remember the spec.

 

Mine went at 98K, took out one of my A/C line when it busted. The sad part is that it was harder to replace the A/C line then the belt, once you get anywhere near 100K it will definitely need to be changed.

 

Yep. By the side of the road. About 80 miles from home. I was lucky to have a friend that would bring me tools and the replacement belt. My wife could have made the trek but we have a houseful of kids and an infant who would have been very cranky sitting by the side of the road while dad changed a belt. lol

 

All of our Hondas with more than 100,000 miles have made that noise when cold. Honda mechanics tell me it's piston slap--when the pistons rock from side to side in the cylinder and the piston skirt taps the cylinder walls. It sounds worse than it is. I hear it when the engine is warm and the A/C kicks on--because rpms drop and engine load has increased.