So when I was driving on the freeway I blew a spark plug and eventually had it towed to my house. The coil pack was blown off as well as the spark plug. When I tried to install a new spark plug, I noticed that the threading was gone and will only go in partially.

I tore down the car to the head, took the head to a machinist who rethreaded that one hole for me. I assembled up the car but will not turn over. It just keeps cranking forever. I did let the fuel pump run with the key on the "on" position to get the fuel going but still no luck.

As far as I know, I have connected all the tubes, lines, and plugs into the correct places. If there are diagnostic steps to figure out the issue, I would like to give it a shot. Any advise is well appreciated. Thank you guys in advance!

 

I'd start with the timing chain. Confirm that the crank and cams are correctly aligned.

Then confirm that you are getting spark and fuel into the cylinders. Are the plugs wet from fuel? If not, check the quick disconnect below throttle body and the injector connections.

Next, assuming you didn't disconnect any of the plugs in the passenger foot well area, make certain all the other plugs are firmly connected, especially the crank position sensor, which is on the exhaust manifold side.

I have pictures of the connections, etc., if that would be of help. If so, send an email address via PM.

 

I checked all the wires / lines and they are all connected. I have checked fuel and there is fuel. The only thing I was missing was the spark from all 4 plugs.

I'm guessing that at this point, it is the timing that is not correct so I am tearing down the car one more time to check for timing.







The first and second image is the same. The second one is zoomed in so you can see the arrow and the lines that is printed on the crank pulley. I'm not sure if the arrow is supposed to be lining up with one of those printed lines so please let me know if any of you guys know. Thanks!

 

Best guess is that you are at 12°. The nearest mark/groove (counterclockwise) is 8° and the furthest mark/groove is TDC (0°). This is based on the diagram in step 6: Ignition Timing Inspection (L12A/L13A without ETCS)

You could look into the cylinder to see whether is at TDC (perhaps have a screw driver inserted into the spark plug hole if you can't visually see) or rotate the crank and see whether you are one tooth off.

 

Also keep in mind that you may need to rotate the crankshaft an additional 360 degrees. The sensor reads the trigger wheel INSIDE just behind teh flywheel on a gear mounted on the crank

Also verify that the crank sensor wiring did not get damaged or pulled on!

Good luck!

 

Thanks guys for your help. Just a quick update, my car is still not running

Anyways, so it seems like the timing is slightly off. The reason for that is because for some reason, the timing mark on the chain will not line up with the TDC mark on the crank. So this is what I ended up doing.

1. Put the crank in TDC position
2. Put the cam in TDC position
3. Put the chain on

Because I didn't have guidance mark on the chain since they are out of place, I'm thinking the slack on the chain on both side wasn't correct. So here's what I hope will be the last question. Is there any easy was to adjust the chain or remove the chain?

P.S. - I don't even know how the chain got moved out of place. I did NOT rotate the crank counterclockwise. I didn't even remove the chain from the camshaft sprocket in the first place!

 

I'd review the timing chain installation procedure. (Cam Chain Installation (L12A/L13A)) There is considerable pressure on the timing chain by the cam chain tensioner. Essentially the timing cover will need to be removed, necessitating the removal of the crank pulley, etc.

Hopefully, there hasn't been any damage to the valves, since the Fit does use an interference engine.

 

I have already removed the cam cover removed the tensioner. The problem is that I cannot remove the chain because it is held in by point "B" (first image) from the link you gave me. If you look above the arrow, there is a groove sticking out right under the gears that guides the chain. There is not enough room to loosen the chain to slide it out.

The biggest issue is that the chain will not move freely and cannot get the markings on the chain to line up with the markings on the crank / cam.

 

With the tensioner removed (rather than the guide), you should have plenty of slack on the tensioner side to drape it over the cam gear. There is a rather narrow area on the cam to hold it in place as if you wanted to remove the cam gear bolt. (The area is just behind the cam gear and is narrower than most crescent wrenches or open end wrenches. One possibility would be a bicycle wrench. However, there is a lot of tension from the valve springs such that removal of the cam gear itself will result in the cam rotating if not held in place.) You should be able to rotate the cam from the cam gear bolt if you don't have a wrench that will fit on the cam. Access to the bolt is gained by removing the plastic round cap.

 

Just to confirm your progress, have you completed all the steps down to and including step 16 on Cam Chain Removal and still can't remove the timing chain?

 

The guide shows it with the oil pan removed. I wasn't going to go through all that trouble since it moved out of place without the oil pan removed. I am working on the car as I speak and I believe that I got the mark correctly this time by removing the cam sprocket and turning the crank by itself endlessly. Anyways, I have pictures coming so if you can confirm in the next 20 to 30 minutes so I don't have to disassemble this car again.

 

Picture of crank chain install



Picture of camshaft chain install

 

I'm concerned with the location of the two colored links in the second picture. They should be at the 12:00 and 12:30 positions (per ¶ 4 at Cam Chain Installation (L12A/L13A)) and they appear to be at the 2:00 and 2:30 positions.

 

Thanks for pointing that out. The manual you are looking at is for the L12A/L13A and I believe my car is the L15A since it's the US model.



The image above is from the shop manual that I am using and it's for the 2005 Honda Fit but I believe the engine is the same for my 2008. I cannot be 100% sure if it really is the same guide for the '05 vs '08 but this is the closest thing I have.