2007 Honda Fit Sputtering, Jerking, Misfiring (RESOLVED)
#1
07-24-2015, 12:12 PM
2007 Honda Fit Sputtering, Jerking, Misfiring (RESOLVED)
Hi,
I posted about this awhile back here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...r-jerking.html
But I wanted to write a more thorough description of the problem I had just in case someone else has the same experience.
Short version first:
- Car jerked and shuttered on the highway, check engine light flashed.
- Mechanic reported that the car had a series of misfires, threw codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304.
- Changed all four spark plugs and all four coil packs, problem remained
- Did a valve adjustment, problem remained
- Replaced the upstream oxygen sensor, fixed the problem.
Long version:
For background, I bought this car about a year ago on Craigslist from a guy who had the car religiously maintained at the Honda dealership. All evidence indicated that this car was in great condition, albeit thoroughly used: 141,000 miles on the odometer. This is also the very first car I've owned. So, what I'm trying to say here is that I did not know how the car should have been operating. I didn't have a good frame of reference to identify issues with the car, as I'll explain below:
Prior to the series of misfires, my fit ran quite well...or so I thought. In reality, there were a few warning signs that I regret ignoring because they turned out to be symptoms of, among other things, the faulty O2 sensor.
1. The car was getting low MPG. I first noticed this when I went on a 2000-mile road trip and had to stop for gas more regularly than I was used to (i.e. when I rented newer cars). I just chalked this up to the relatively small gas tank on the fit. Didn't think much about it.
2. The car would vibrate rhythmically when the A/C was on. This happened mostly at stop lights when the car was in drive and my foot was on the brake. While moving the vibration stopped and the car functioned normally. I rationalized this again by believing that the car was just working harder to turn the alternator.
3. The car had a slight lawn-mower-type sound when running above idle. I'm not sure how to illustrate the sound in words but it just sounded like a light chugging noise coming from under the hood---not the exhaust.
4. Finally, poor acceleration, particularly when trying to go 0-60mph. I just figured that's what I should expect out of a 1.5L engine.
(After writing all of this out, I kind of feel like an idiot
)
Anyway, one day my wife was driving the car to work when, on the highway, the car began to shutter and the check-engine light started flashing. She took her foot off the gas, coasted for a couple seconds and reapplied the throttle. The car accelerated momentarily and then shuttered again, flashed again and didn't give much power when she pressed the throttle harder. Very scary to say the least.
She had the car towed to our mechanic and that's when the troubleshooting began. The only codes showing up were P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304---misfiring on on cylinders. Upon further inspection, he found that the spark plugs were loose and some of the coils actually had some scorch marks and were partially melted. Apparently some of the combustion gasses were escaping through the hole where the spark plugs are inserted? At least that's what I gathered. My mechanic replaced all four plugs and all four coils, believing this to be the source of the problem.
...until it wasn't.
I test drove the car and got the same result. The thing was, the car seemed to be operating better than ever. Better acceleration, no more lawn-mower noise. And I didn't notice any problems at city speeds. But once on the highway, the car shuttered, lost power and flashed a warning.
I bought the car back and my mechanic tried doing a valve adjustment. After he did it, he figured he had solved the problem since the clearance of exhaust valves was minuscule, which presumably wasn't letting the exhaust out of the cylinder fast enough, or something (I'm no mechanic).
I test drove the car, same problem.
Finally, my mechanic removed the upstream oxygen sensor (which regulates the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen levels in the exhaust) and test drove the car for a solid 30 minutes. I might be misunderstanding this, but I believe this forced the car to operate in "open-loop". The car did not exhibit any of the misfiring problems. Then he installed a brand new Denso oxygen sensor and, VOILA, it's fixed.
In the end, the oxygen sensor was the main culprit in this scenario; however, the car definitely needed new spark plugs, new coils and a valve adjustment. As a result, the car is running better than ever. The car is getting exceptional MPG, there are no vibrations when I turn on the A/C, the engine hums evenly and the acceleration is potent and smooth.
For me, the strange part about this whole thing is why the ECU never indicated a faulty sensor. Shouldn't it?? Also, why was this only a problem at high speeds? Does the input from the O2 sensor only kick-in after the car has been in motion for 15-30 minutes? Things I'm still learning....
In case you are curious, this is how my costs broke down (some of you after-market DIY folks can laugh at me for paying too much):
- 4 Spark Plugs, $29.98
- Oxygen sensor, $360.97
- Valve adjustment, $274.68
- 4 Coils, FREE (my mechanic felt bad about not figuring out the problem earlier that he didn't charge me for these).
- Taxes and fees, $62.98
Total: $818.55
Maybe I paid too much for some stuff but I still think I got a heck of a deal, considering the car runs like a spring chicken. I do however, have another problem: P0420, most likely due to the misfiring. I'm still investigating this....
I posted about this awhile back here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...r-jerking.html
But I wanted to write a more thorough description of the problem I had just in case someone else has the same experience.
Short version first:
- Car jerked and shuttered on the highway, check engine light flashed.
- Mechanic reported that the car had a series of misfires, threw codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304.
- Changed all four spark plugs and all four coil packs, problem remained
- Did a valve adjustment, problem remained
- Replaced the upstream oxygen sensor, fixed the problem.
Long version:
For background, I bought this car about a year ago on Craigslist from a guy who had the car religiously maintained at the Honda dealership. All evidence indicated that this car was in great condition, albeit thoroughly used: 141,000 miles on the odometer. This is also the very first car I've owned. So, what I'm trying to say here is that I did not know how the car should have been operating. I didn't have a good frame of reference to identify issues with the car, as I'll explain below:
Prior to the series of misfires, my fit ran quite well...or so I thought. In reality, there were a few warning signs that I regret ignoring because they turned out to be symptoms of, among other things, the faulty O2 sensor.
1. The car was getting low MPG. I first noticed this when I went on a 2000-mile road trip and had to stop for gas more regularly than I was used to (i.e. when I rented newer cars). I just chalked this up to the relatively small gas tank on the fit. Didn't think much about it.
2. The car would vibrate rhythmically when the A/C was on. This happened mostly at stop lights when the car was in drive and my foot was on the brake. While moving the vibration stopped and the car functioned normally. I rationalized this again by believing that the car was just working harder to turn the alternator.
3. The car had a slight lawn-mower-type sound when running above idle. I'm not sure how to illustrate the sound in words but it just sounded like a light chugging noise coming from under the hood---not the exhaust.
4. Finally, poor acceleration, particularly when trying to go 0-60mph. I just figured that's what I should expect out of a 1.5L engine.
(After writing all of this out, I kind of feel like an idiot
)Anyway, one day my wife was driving the car to work when, on the highway, the car began to shutter and the check-engine light started flashing. She took her foot off the gas, coasted for a couple seconds and reapplied the throttle. The car accelerated momentarily and then shuttered again, flashed again and didn't give much power when she pressed the throttle harder. Very scary to say the least.
She had the car towed to our mechanic and that's when the troubleshooting began. The only codes showing up were P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304---misfiring on on cylinders. Upon further inspection, he found that the spark plugs were loose and some of the coils actually had some scorch marks and were partially melted. Apparently some of the combustion gasses were escaping through the hole where the spark plugs are inserted? At least that's what I gathered. My mechanic replaced all four plugs and all four coils, believing this to be the source of the problem.
...until it wasn't.
I test drove the car and got the same result. The thing was, the car seemed to be operating better than ever. Better acceleration, no more lawn-mower noise. And I didn't notice any problems at city speeds. But once on the highway, the car shuttered, lost power and flashed a warning.
I bought the car back and my mechanic tried doing a valve adjustment. After he did it, he figured he had solved the problem since the clearance of exhaust valves was minuscule, which presumably wasn't letting the exhaust out of the cylinder fast enough, or something (I'm no mechanic).
I test drove the car, same problem.
Finally, my mechanic removed the upstream oxygen sensor (which regulates the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen levels in the exhaust) and test drove the car for a solid 30 minutes. I might be misunderstanding this, but I believe this forced the car to operate in "open-loop". The car did not exhibit any of the misfiring problems. Then he installed a brand new Denso oxygen sensor and, VOILA, it's fixed.
In the end, the oxygen sensor was the main culprit in this scenario; however, the car definitely needed new spark plugs, new coils and a valve adjustment. As a result, the car is running better than ever. The car is getting exceptional MPG, there are no vibrations when I turn on the A/C, the engine hums evenly and the acceleration is potent and smooth.
For me, the strange part about this whole thing is why the ECU never indicated a faulty sensor. Shouldn't it?? Also, why was this only a problem at high speeds? Does the input from the O2 sensor only kick-in after the car has been in motion for 15-30 minutes? Things I'm still learning....
In case you are curious, this is how my costs broke down (some of you after-market DIY folks can laugh at me for paying too much):
- 4 Spark Plugs, $29.98
- Oxygen sensor, $360.97
- Valve adjustment, $274.68
- 4 Coils, FREE (my mechanic felt bad about not figuring out the problem earlier that he didn't charge me for these).
- Taxes and fees, $62.98
Total: $818.55
Maybe I paid too much for some stuff but I still think I got a heck of a deal, considering the car runs like a spring chicken. I do however, have another problem: P0420, most likely due to the misfiring. I'm still investigating this....
#2
07-24-2015, 02:51 PM
FWIW, I can get a Honda oxygen sensor from Bernardi Parts for $212 before shipping. Ebay has them 'new' for Acura (same part number) for $167.
Part number 36531-RME-A01 for anyone shopping for one of these in the near future.
You obviously got a great deal on the coil packs, those aren't cheap.
Thanks for posting your experiences.
Part number 36531-RME-A01 for anyone shopping for one of these in the near future.
You obviously got a great deal on the coil packs, those aren't cheap.
Thanks for posting your experiences.
Last edited by Rob22315; 07-24-2015 at 02:55 PM.
#3
07-26-2015, 11:05 AM
You can get the sensor from rockauto also. It just so happens that the sensor for our car is expensive what can you do. Good job on resolving the problem. I find my car is rather sluggish and getting inconsistent MPG. I order a new O2 sensor a year ago and never installed it.
I did get a O2 sensor slow response pending code twice but it was when the car was extremely cold. From reading your post, I might just go ahead and change the sensor and see if it helps.
I did get a O2 sensor slow response pending code twice but it was when the car was extremely cold. From reading your post, I might just go ahead and change the sensor and see if it helps.
#4
07-26-2015, 02:18 PM
I'm going to have to try this. My 08 fit has been doing the same thing for a few weeks now it will give a code when on highway I would change out that coil pack and it would run good for about a week and then it would fire off a different code for a different cylinder until now I have changed every coil pack and all spark plugs again. worked fine for a day then started doing it all again.
#6
02-01-2017, 03:31 PM
hondafit jerks
Hi,
I posted about this awhile back here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...r-jerking.html
But I wanted to write a more thorough description of the problem I had just in case someone else has the same experience.
Short version first:
- Car jerked and shuttered on the highway, check engine light flashed.
- Mechanic reported that the car had a series of misfires, threw codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304.
- Changed all four spark plugs and all four coil packs, problem remained
- Did a valve adjustment, problem remained
- Replaced the upstream oxygen sensor, fixed the problem.
Long version:
For background, I bought this car about a year ago on Craigslist from a guy who had the car religiously maintained at the Honda dealership. All evidence indicated that this car was in great condition, albeit thoroughly used: 141,000 miles on the odometer. This is also the very first car I've owned. So, what I'm trying to say here is that I did not know how the car should have been operating. I didn't have a good frame of reference to identify issues with the car, as I'll explain below:
Prior to the series of misfires, my fit ran quite well...or so I thought. In reality, there were a few warning signs that I regret ignoring because they turned out to be symptoms of, among other things, the faulty O2 sensor.
1. The car was getting low MPG. I first noticed this when I went on a 2000-mile road trip and had to stop for gas more regularly than I was used to (i.e. when I rented newer cars). I just chalked this up to the relatively small gas tank on the fit. Didn't think much about it.
2. The car would vibrate rhythmically when the A/C was on. This happened mostly at stop lights when the car was in drive and my foot was on the brake. While moving the vibration stopped and the car functioned normally. I rationalized this again by believing that the car was just working harder to turn the alternator.
3. The car had a slight lawn-mower-type sound when running above idle. I'm not sure how to illustrate the sound in words but it just sounded like a light chugging noise coming from under the hood---not the exhaust.
4. Finally, poor acceleration, particularly when trying to go 0-60mph. I just figured that's what I should expect out of a 1.5L engine.
(After writing all of this out, I kind of feel like an idiot )
Anyway, one day my wife was driving the car to work when, on the highway, the car began to shutter and the check-engine light started flashing. She took her foot off the gas, coasted for a couple seconds and reapplied the throttle. The car accelerated momentarily and then shuttered again, flashed again and didn't give much power when she pressed the throttle harder. Very scary to say the least.
She had the car towed to our mechanic and that's when the troubleshooting began. The only codes showing up were P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304---misfiring on on cylinders. Upon further inspection, he found that the spark plugs were loose and some of the coils actually had some scorch marks and were partially melted. Apparently some of the combustion gasses were escaping through the hole where the spark plugs are inserted? At least that's what I gathered. My mechanic replaced all four plugs and all four coils, believing this to be the source of the problem.
...until it wasn't.
I test drove the car and got the same result. The thing was, the car seemed to be operating better than ever. Better acceleration, no more lawn-mower noise. And I didn't notice any problems at city speeds. But once on the highway, the car shuttered, lost power and flashed a warning.
I bought the car back and my mechanic tried doing a valve adjustment. After he did it, he figured he had solved the problem since the clearance of exhaust valves was minuscule, which presumably wasn't letting the exhaust out of the cylinder fast enough, or something (I'm no mechanic).
I test drove the car, same problem.
Finally, my mechanic removed the upstream oxygen sensor (which regulates the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen levels in the exhaust) and test drove the car for a solid 30 minutes. I might be misunderstanding this, but I believe this forced the car to operate in "open-loop". The car did not exhibit any of the misfiring problems. Then he installed a brand new Denso oxygen sensor and, VOILA, it's fixed.
In the end, the oxygen sensor was the main culprit in this scenario; however, the car definitely needed new spark plugs, new coils and a valve adjustment. As a result, the car is running better than ever. The car is getting exceptional MPG, there are no vibrations when I turn on the A/C, the engine hums evenly and the acceleration is potent and smooth.
For me, the strange part about this whole thing is why the ECU never indicated a faulty sensor. Shouldn't it?? Also, why was this only a problem at high speeds? Does the input from the O2 sensor only kick-in after the car has been in motion for 15-30 minutes? Things I'm still learning....
In case you are curious, this is how my costs broke down (some of you after-market DIY folks can laugh at me for paying too much):
- 4 Spark Plugs, $29.98
- Oxygen sensor, $360.97
- Valve adjustment, $274.68
- 4 Coils, FREE (my mechanic felt bad about not figuring out the problem earlier that he didn't charge me for these).
- Taxes and fees, $62.98
Total: $818.55
Maybe I paid too much for some stuff but I still think I got a heck of a deal, considering the car runs like a spring chicken. I do however, have another problem: P0420, most likely due to the misfiring. I'm still investigating this....
I posted about this awhile back here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...r-jerking.html
But I wanted to write a more thorough description of the problem I had just in case someone else has the same experience.
Short version first:
- Car jerked and shuttered on the highway, check engine light flashed.
- Mechanic reported that the car had a series of misfires, threw codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304.
- Changed all four spark plugs and all four coil packs, problem remained
- Did a valve adjustment, problem remained
- Replaced the upstream oxygen sensor, fixed the problem.
Long version:
For background, I bought this car about a year ago on Craigslist from a guy who had the car religiously maintained at the Honda dealership. All evidence indicated that this car was in great condition, albeit thoroughly used: 141,000 miles on the odometer. This is also the very first car I've owned. So, what I'm trying to say here is that I did not know how the car should have been operating. I didn't have a good frame of reference to identify issues with the car, as I'll explain below:
Prior to the series of misfires, my fit ran quite well...or so I thought. In reality, there were a few warning signs that I regret ignoring because they turned out to be symptoms of, among other things, the faulty O2 sensor.
1. The car was getting low MPG. I first noticed this when I went on a 2000-mile road trip and had to stop for gas more regularly than I was used to (i.e. when I rented newer cars). I just chalked this up to the relatively small gas tank on the fit. Didn't think much about it.
2. The car would vibrate rhythmically when the A/C was on. This happened mostly at stop lights when the car was in drive and my foot was on the brake. While moving the vibration stopped and the car functioned normally. I rationalized this again by believing that the car was just working harder to turn the alternator.
3. The car had a slight lawn-mower-type sound when running above idle. I'm not sure how to illustrate the sound in words but it just sounded like a light chugging noise coming from under the hood---not the exhaust.
4. Finally, poor acceleration, particularly when trying to go 0-60mph. I just figured that's what I should expect out of a 1.5L engine.
(After writing all of this out, I kind of feel like an idiot
)Anyway, one day my wife was driving the car to work when, on the highway, the car began to shutter and the check-engine light started flashing. She took her foot off the gas, coasted for a couple seconds and reapplied the throttle. The car accelerated momentarily and then shuttered again, flashed again and didn't give much power when she pressed the throttle harder. Very scary to say the least.
She had the car towed to our mechanic and that's when the troubleshooting began. The only codes showing up were P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304---misfiring on on cylinders. Upon further inspection, he found that the spark plugs were loose and some of the coils actually had some scorch marks and were partially melted. Apparently some of the combustion gasses were escaping through the hole where the spark plugs are inserted? At least that's what I gathered. My mechanic replaced all four plugs and all four coils, believing this to be the source of the problem.
...until it wasn't.
I test drove the car and got the same result. The thing was, the car seemed to be operating better than ever. Better acceleration, no more lawn-mower noise. And I didn't notice any problems at city speeds. But once on the highway, the car shuttered, lost power and flashed a warning.
I bought the car back and my mechanic tried doing a valve adjustment. After he did it, he figured he had solved the problem since the clearance of exhaust valves was minuscule, which presumably wasn't letting the exhaust out of the cylinder fast enough, or something (I'm no mechanic).
I test drove the car, same problem.
Finally, my mechanic removed the upstream oxygen sensor (which regulates the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen levels in the exhaust) and test drove the car for a solid 30 minutes. I might be misunderstanding this, but I believe this forced the car to operate in "open-loop". The car did not exhibit any of the misfiring problems. Then he installed a brand new Denso oxygen sensor and, VOILA, it's fixed.
In the end, the oxygen sensor was the main culprit in this scenario; however, the car definitely needed new spark plugs, new coils and a valve adjustment. As a result, the car is running better than ever. The car is getting exceptional MPG, there are no vibrations when I turn on the A/C, the engine hums evenly and the acceleration is potent and smooth.
For me, the strange part about this whole thing is why the ECU never indicated a faulty sensor. Shouldn't it?? Also, why was this only a problem at high speeds? Does the input from the O2 sensor only kick-in after the car has been in motion for 15-30 minutes? Things I'm still learning....
In case you are curious, this is how my costs broke down (some of you after-market DIY folks can laugh at me for paying too much):
- 4 Spark Plugs, $29.98
- Oxygen sensor, $360.97
- Valve adjustment, $274.68
- 4 Coils, FREE (my mechanic felt bad about not figuring out the problem earlier that he didn't charge me for these).
- Taxes and fees, $62.98
Total: $818.55
Maybe I paid too much for some stuff but I still think I got a heck of a deal, considering the car runs like a spring chicken. I do however, have another problem: P0420, most likely due to the misfiring. I'm still investigating this....
So the problem is fix
#7
02-01-2017, 03:37 PM
Yes, if you have this problem and your fit is approaching 150,000 miles, there's a good chance your oxygen sensor needs to be replaced.
#8
06-21-2017, 02:13 AM
Hi,
I posted about this awhile back here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...r-jerking.html
But I wanted to write a more thorough description of the problem I had just in case someone else has the same experience.
Short version first:
- Car jerked and shuttered on the highway, check engine light flashed.
- Mechanic reported that the car had a series of misfires, threw codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304.
- Changed all four spark plugs and all four coil packs, problem remained
- Did a valve adjustment, problem remained
- Replaced the upstream oxygen sensor, fixed the problem.
Long version:
For background, I bought this car about a year ago on Craigslist from a guy who had the car religiously maintained at the Honda dealership. All evidence indicated that this car was in great condition, albeit thoroughly used: 141,000 miles on the odometer. This is also the very first car I've owned. So, what I'm trying to say here is that I did not know how the car should have been operating. I didn't have a good frame of reference to identify issues with the car, as I'll explain below:
Prior to the series of misfires, my fit ran quite well...or so I thought. In reality, there were a few warning signs that I regret ignoring because they turned out to be symptoms of, among other things, the faulty O2 sensor.
1. The car was getting low MPG. I first noticed this when I went on a 2000-mile road trip and had to stop for gas more regularly than I was used to (i.e. when I rented newer cars). I just chalked this up to the relatively small gas tank on the fit. Didn't think much about it.
2. The car would vibrate rhythmically when the A/C was on. This happened mostly at stop lights when the car was in drive and my foot was on the brake. While moving the vibration stopped and the car functioned normally. I rationalized this again by believing that the car was just working harder to turn the alternator.
3. The car had a slight lawn-mower-type sound when running above idle. I'm not sure how to illustrate the sound in words but it just sounded like a light chugging noise coming from under the hood---not the exhaust.
4. Finally, poor acceleration, particularly when trying to go 0-60mph. I just figured that's what I should expect out of a 1.5L engine.
(After writing all of this out, I kind of feel like an idiot )
Anyway, one day my wife was driving the car to work when, on the highway, the car began to shutter and the check-engine light started flashing. She took her foot off the gas, coasted for a couple seconds and reapplied the throttle. The car accelerated momentarily and then shuttered again, flashed again and didn't give much power when she pressed the throttle harder. Very scary to say the least.
She had the car towed to our mechanic and that's when the troubleshooting began. The only codes showing up were P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304---misfiring on on cylinders. Upon further inspection, he found that the spark plugs were loose and some of the coils actually had some scorch marks and were partially melted. Apparently some of the combustion gasses were escaping through the hole where the spark plugs are inserted? At least that's what I gathered. My mechanic replaced all four plugs and all four coils, believing this to be the source of the problem.
...until it wasn't.
I test drove the car and got the same result. The thing was, the car seemed to be operating better than ever. Better acceleration, no more lawn-mower noise. And I didn't notice any problems at city speeds. But once on the highway, the car shuttered, lost power and flashed a warning.
I bought the car back and my mechanic tried doing a valve adjustment. After he did it, he figured he had solved the problem since the clearance of exhaust valves was minuscule, which presumably wasn't letting the exhaust out of the cylinder fast enough, or something (I'm no mechanic).
I test drove the car, same problem.
Finally, my mechanic removed the upstream oxygen sensor (which regulates the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen levels in the exhaust) and test drove the car for a solid 30 minutes. I might be misunderstanding this, but I believe this forced the car to operate in "open-loop". The car did not exhibit any of the misfiring problems. Then he installed a brand new Denso oxygen sensor and, VOILA, it's fixed.
In the end, the oxygen sensor was the main culprit in this scenario; however, the car definitely needed new spark plugs, new coils and a valve adjustment. As a result, the car is running better than ever. The car is getting exceptional MPG, there are no vibrations when I turn on the A/C, the engine hums evenly and the acceleration is potent and smooth.
For me, the strange part about this whole thing is why the ECU never indicated a faulty sensor. Shouldn't it?? Also, why was this only a problem at high speeds? Does the input from the O2 sensor only kick-in after the car has been in motion for 15-30 minutes? Things I'm still learning....
In case you are curious, this is how my costs broke down (some of you after-market DIY folks can laugh at me for paying too much):
- 4 Spark Plugs, $29.98
- Oxygen sensor, $360.97
- Valve adjustment, $274.68
- 4 Coils, FREE (my mechanic felt bad about not figuring out the problem earlier that he didn't charge me for these).
- Taxes and fees, $62.98
Total: $818.55
Maybe I paid too much for some stuff but I still think I got a heck of a deal, considering the car runs like a spring chicken. I do however, have another problem: P0420, most likely due to the misfiring. I'm still investigating this....
I posted about this awhile back here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...r-jerking.html
But I wanted to write a more thorough description of the problem I had just in case someone else has the same experience.
Short version first:
- Car jerked and shuttered on the highway, check engine light flashed.
- Mechanic reported that the car had a series of misfires, threw codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304.
- Changed all four spark plugs and all four coil packs, problem remained
- Did a valve adjustment, problem remained
- Replaced the upstream oxygen sensor, fixed the problem.
Long version:
For background, I bought this car about a year ago on Craigslist from a guy who had the car religiously maintained at the Honda dealership. All evidence indicated that this car was in great condition, albeit thoroughly used: 141,000 miles on the odometer. This is also the very first car I've owned. So, what I'm trying to say here is that I did not know how the car should have been operating. I didn't have a good frame of reference to identify issues with the car, as I'll explain below:
Prior to the series of misfires, my fit ran quite well...or so I thought. In reality, there were a few warning signs that I regret ignoring because they turned out to be symptoms of, among other things, the faulty O2 sensor.
1. The car was getting low MPG. I first noticed this when I went on a 2000-mile road trip and had to stop for gas more regularly than I was used to (i.e. when I rented newer cars). I just chalked this up to the relatively small gas tank on the fit. Didn't think much about it.
2. The car would vibrate rhythmically when the A/C was on. This happened mostly at stop lights when the car was in drive and my foot was on the brake. While moving the vibration stopped and the car functioned normally. I rationalized this again by believing that the car was just working harder to turn the alternator.
3. The car had a slight lawn-mower-type sound when running above idle. I'm not sure how to illustrate the sound in words but it just sounded like a light chugging noise coming from under the hood---not the exhaust.
4. Finally, poor acceleration, particularly when trying to go 0-60mph. I just figured that's what I should expect out of a 1.5L engine.
(After writing all of this out, I kind of feel like an idiot
)Anyway, one day my wife was driving the car to work when, on the highway, the car began to shutter and the check-engine light started flashing. She took her foot off the gas, coasted for a couple seconds and reapplied the throttle. The car accelerated momentarily and then shuttered again, flashed again and didn't give much power when she pressed the throttle harder. Very scary to say the least.
She had the car towed to our mechanic and that's when the troubleshooting began. The only codes showing up were P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304---misfiring on on cylinders. Upon further inspection, he found that the spark plugs were loose and some of the coils actually had some scorch marks and were partially melted. Apparently some of the combustion gasses were escaping through the hole where the spark plugs are inserted? At least that's what I gathered. My mechanic replaced all four plugs and all four coils, believing this to be the source of the problem.
...until it wasn't.
I test drove the car and got the same result. The thing was, the car seemed to be operating better than ever. Better acceleration, no more lawn-mower noise. And I didn't notice any problems at city speeds. But once on the highway, the car shuttered, lost power and flashed a warning.
I bought the car back and my mechanic tried doing a valve adjustment. After he did it, he figured he had solved the problem since the clearance of exhaust valves was minuscule, which presumably wasn't letting the exhaust out of the cylinder fast enough, or something (I'm no mechanic).
I test drove the car, same problem.
Finally, my mechanic removed the upstream oxygen sensor (which regulates the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen levels in the exhaust) and test drove the car for a solid 30 minutes. I might be misunderstanding this, but I believe this forced the car to operate in "open-loop". The car did not exhibit any of the misfiring problems. Then he installed a brand new Denso oxygen sensor and, VOILA, it's fixed.
In the end, the oxygen sensor was the main culprit in this scenario; however, the car definitely needed new spark plugs, new coils and a valve adjustment. As a result, the car is running better than ever. The car is getting exceptional MPG, there are no vibrations when I turn on the A/C, the engine hums evenly and the acceleration is potent and smooth.
For me, the strange part about this whole thing is why the ECU never indicated a faulty sensor. Shouldn't it?? Also, why was this only a problem at high speeds? Does the input from the O2 sensor only kick-in after the car has been in motion for 15-30 minutes? Things I'm still learning....
In case you are curious, this is how my costs broke down (some of you after-market DIY folks can laugh at me for paying too much):
- 4 Spark Plugs, $29.98
- Oxygen sensor, $360.97
- Valve adjustment, $274.68
- 4 Coils, FREE (my mechanic felt bad about not figuring out the problem earlier that he didn't charge me for these).
- Taxes and fees, $62.98
Total: $818.55
Maybe I paid too much for some stuff but I still think I got a heck of a deal, considering the car runs like a spring chicken. I do however, have another problem: P0420, most likely due to the misfiring. I'm still investigating this....
#9
06-29-2017, 09:15 AM
My 07 Fit started skipping occasionally at about 100k at lower rpms (higher load conditions) with no CEL. I checked the coil packs and number four's tube looked like it was overheating. I replaced the pack and the occasional skip was still there.
I next performed the 100k service (new plugs (Denso SKJ20DR-M13), valve adjustment, etc) and replaced the other three packs and the skip was still there.
I brought it to the dealer, described the problem, and told them the skip was more frequent with the A/C on hoping they would catch the problem as it occurred connected to their diagnostic equipment. They didn't find any codes and told me the A/C compressor was the problem! I reminded them it happens with the A/C off too... They didn't have any answers and I didn't replace the compressor.
I read that people mentioned Hitachi and other name brand coil packs and I found mine were made by BWD and thought they may not have enough power to jump the .051 gap in the plugs every time. I was able to exchange the BWD packs for Hitachi packs and I haven't had a skip in the last few hundred miles. If the pack exchange was not possible I was going to go another set of plugs with a smaller gap.
Thanks FitFreak!
I next performed the 100k service (new plugs (Denso SKJ20DR-M13), valve adjustment, etc) and replaced the other three packs and the skip was still there.
I brought it to the dealer, described the problem, and told them the skip was more frequent with the A/C on hoping they would catch the problem as it occurred connected to their diagnostic equipment. They didn't find any codes and told me the A/C compressor was the problem! I reminded them it happens with the A/C off too... They didn't have any answers and I didn't replace the compressor.
I read that people mentioned Hitachi and other name brand coil packs and I found mine were made by BWD and thought they may not have enough power to jump the .051 gap in the plugs every time. I was able to exchange the BWD packs for Hitachi packs and I haven't had a skip in the last few hundred miles. If the pack exchange was not possible I was going to go another set of plugs with a smaller gap.
Thanks FitFreak!
Last edited by john380; 06-29-2017 at 09:19 AM.
#10
07-24-2017, 09:18 PM
Don' take my word for it, but I changed my serpentine belt, re-tensioned and the jerking/sputtering problems went away.
Before I bought the serpentine belt, I changed my sparks, checked my coils etc, but still the problem persisted. My theory is that the as the belt slips off the alternator and the voltage would drop causing the car to not have efficient spark and jerk.
Before I bought the serpentine belt, I changed my sparks, checked my coils etc, but still the problem persisted. My theory is that the as the belt slips off the alternator and the voltage would drop causing the car to not have efficient spark and jerk.
#12
07-05-2018, 11:52 PM
You Saved me!!!
I can not Thank you enough for posting about your issues in detail and explaining what fixed it. I was having the Same Exact problem. I thought maybe it was the fuel I was getting because sometimes I would go to different gas stations but the more I ran my car and the air conditioning, it kept getting worse and worse. I changed the spark plugs, but it still went back to jerking after a day. I put fuel injector cleaner in my gas tank, a few days later Still went back to jerking. After months of being stumped I happened to come across your post. I bought the downstream oxygen sensor and ignition coils off of Rockauto.com and saved a ton of money. (4) Ignition coil - $19.99 per coil and about $60 for the oxygen sensor, my coils had carbon build up on them apparently and my oxygen sensor was white which is bad? Lolz I know a couple of friends who are mechanics that changed the parts for me for free so I saved a Ton of money. You saved me, time, money, and even better my car. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
#14
08-03-2018, 03:33 PM
I can not Thank you enough for posting about your issues in detail and explaining what fixed it. I was having the Same Exact problem. I thought maybe it was the fuel I was getting because sometimes I would go to different gas stations but the more I ran my car and the air conditioning, it kept getting worse and worse. I changed the spark plugs, but it still went back to jerking after a day. I put fuel injector cleaner in my gas tank, a few days later Still went back to jerking. After months of being stumped I happened to come across your post. I bought the downstream oxygen sensor and ignition coils off of Rockauto.com and saved a ton of money. (4) Ignition coil - $19.99 per coil and about $60 for the oxygen sensor, my coils had carbon build up on them apparently and my oxygen sensor was white which is bad? Lolz I know a couple of friends who are mechanics that changed the parts for me for free so I saved a Ton of money. You saved me, time, money, and even better my car. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
#15
02-13-2019, 10:59 PM
My 07 Fit started skipping occasionally at about 100k at lower rpms (higher load conditions) with no CEL. I checked the coil packs and number four's tube looked like it was overheating. I replaced the pack and the occasional skip was still there.
I next performed the 100k service (new plugs (Denso SKJ20DR-M13), valve adjustment, etc) and replaced the other three packs and the skip was still there.
I brought it to the dealer, described the problem, and told them the skip was more frequent with the A/C on hoping they would catch the problem as it occurred connected to their diagnostic equipment. They didn't find any codes and told me the A/C compressor was the problem! I reminded them it happens with the A/C off too... They didn't have any answers and I didn't replace the compressor.
I read that people mentioned Hitachi and other name brand coil packs and I found mine were made by BWD and thought they may not have enough power to jump the .051 gap in the plugs every time. I was able to exchange the BWD packs for Hitachi packs and I haven't had a skip in the last few hundred miles. If the pack exchange was not possible I was going to go another set of plugs with a smaller gap.
Thanks FitFreak!
I next performed the 100k service (new plugs (Denso SKJ20DR-M13), valve adjustment, etc) and replaced the other three packs and the skip was still there.
I brought it to the dealer, described the problem, and told them the skip was more frequent with the A/C on hoping they would catch the problem as it occurred connected to their diagnostic equipment. They didn't find any codes and told me the A/C compressor was the problem! I reminded them it happens with the A/C off too... They didn't have any answers and I didn't replace the compressor.
I read that people mentioned Hitachi and other name brand coil packs and I found mine were made by BWD and thought they may not have enough power to jump the .051 gap in the plugs every time. I was able to exchange the BWD packs for Hitachi packs and I haven't had a skip in the last few hundred miles. If the pack exchange was not possible I was going to go another set of plugs with a smaller gap.
Thanks FitFreak!
I am having the same sort of problem and honda services centre diagnosed that something is wrong with the rear ignition coil number 1 (Suspected....not confirmed). The price they quoted was in range of $200 and without any guarantee of fix, i just didn't go ahead with that.
I looked for some hitachi coils on ebay which are fairly cheaper and i am willing to have it replaced myself. But before that, i want to make sure that i ororder the correct part. The details of the car thatvi am using are as below:
Honda Fit Aria 2007 - GD8 Version
(VIN: 7AT08G2YX13501053
Engine No: L15A-1700508
Chassis: GD8-1501053)
Would you be able to tell me the OEM number of the coil suitable for me?
The link of ebay item is https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hitachi-Ignition-Coil-CM11-110-for-Honda-Fit-2007-2008-1-5L-L4-30520-PWC-003-/302492381765
Thanks
#16
02-14-2019, 04:45 PM
Hi John,
I am having the same sort of problem and honda services centre diagnosed that something is wrong with the rear ignition coil number 1 (Suspected....not confirmed). The price they quoted was in range of $200 and without any guarantee of fix, i just didn't go ahead with that.
I looked for some hitachi coils on ebay which are fairly cheaper and i am willing to have it replaced myself. But before that, i want to make sure that i ororder the correct part. The details of the car thatvi am using are as below:
Honda Fit Aria 2007 - GD8 Version
(VIN: 7AT08G2YX13501053
Engine No: L15A-1700508
Chassis: GD8-1501053)
Would you be able to tell me the OEM number of the coil suitable for me?
The link of ebay item is https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hitachi...-/302492381765
Thanks
I am having the same sort of problem and honda services centre diagnosed that something is wrong with the rear ignition coil number 1 (Suspected....not confirmed). The price they quoted was in range of $200 and without any guarantee of fix, i just didn't go ahead with that.
I looked for some hitachi coils on ebay which are fairly cheaper and i am willing to have it replaced myself. But before that, i want to make sure that i ororder the correct part. The details of the car thatvi am using are as below:
Honda Fit Aria 2007 - GD8 Version
(VIN: 7AT08G2YX13501053
Engine No: L15A-1700508
Chassis: GD8-1501053)
Would you be able to tell me the OEM number of the coil suitable for me?
The link of ebay item is https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hitachi...-/302492381765
Thanks
The part number in the eBay auction is identical to the part number on the factory coils from my car (I kept the old ones just in case) and the factory part number is 30520-pwc-s01. Since your car is not mentioned in the auction I recommend you compare any numbers found on your coils to confirm they match even though both our cars share the same engine family. Also, the parts are coming from China and I'm concerned they might be counterfeit. I'd recommend going with a more reputable seller (local, eBay, or on-line). Let us know how it goes. Good luck!
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