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I was notified from the dealer is time to replace the front brake pads. I checked them and found the inner lining was less than 2mm thick until the outer was 5mm. Is this typical for Honda? I had before 4 other cars but I didn't notice such huge difference.
I decided to buy brake pads with hardware kit. I bought c948 from O' Reilly.
I found the kit has only spreader springs. On my car Fit 2007 they are missing. I asked the guy were are the pad clips. He said, they don't need replacement but only the spreader springs.
Actually, my car doesn't have springs. How about your car? What hardware do you have? On page 19-13 of the manual I can see only the clips.
Please advise.
Regards the uneven wear: best practice is to reduce the tendency for the components to bind by liberally lubricating the caliper slider pins (# 11 & 16). You also want to remove the stainless steel "retainers" (#12) and file/sand then lubricate the metal below. That way your pads will not bind in the retainers if rust blooms up.
Don't mix up the top & bottom sliders or retainers, they are different.
The pads should fall out of the retainers on reassembly; if they don't you may need to file the edges of the pads so that they do. This is especially important with aftermarket pads.
I like to buy OEM pads from the online dealers. They are good quality (I get 75K on the Fit's pads) and include all the special grease and shims to do the job properly. Only a few dollars more!
Plus the backing plates for the brake pads actually fit properly... generic brands that part warehouses carry are hit or miss at times.
Spreader springs are not used on the front pads of the 2007/2008 Fit. On the second generation for 2009 to 2013/2014 (in some markets) model years they were used.
A common issue on pad sticking is moisture and rust buildup forming under the springs that the pads slide on. If the pads do not slide easily, remove the springs and clean the casting at the pad slide are to remove the rust. I use a bead blaster because I have one but a wire brush will get the same thing done. On reassembly coat the casting with a little anti-seize before reinstalling the springs (and pads). This will prevent future rust build up in that area.
If the pads still stick, then you need to file the ears on the pads slightly until they fit easily without binding.
Those wire springs that you have in the kit can be installed even if you did not have them originally. They are an anti-rattle spring to keep the pads from chattering while you are driving and the brakes are not applied.
Our CR-V has the 'spreaders' (upper RH corner of your picture). They go into holes on the outer edges of the pad backing plates.
They are kinda fussy to install (you almost need three hands).
So, just heed the advice about lubricating under the retainers and slider pins, make sure your new pads are loose in the new retainers...and your brake job will last a long time.
PS don't forget to replace/flush your brake fluid if it has been three years or more since the last time!
Our CR-V has the 'spreaders' (upper RH corner of your picture). They go into holes on the outer edges of the pad backing plates.
They are kinda fussy to install (you almost need three hands).
Put the pads in, (presuming that 1 caliper slide pin is still in the anchor plate) rotate the caliper down enough to "hold" the pads in their designated slot then put in the top spreaders, lower caliper more and repeat for bottom, then tighten everything to spec when done. =)
I took the brake pads today. I noticed the clips were missing again. Unlike of O’Reilly, the AutoZone guy ordered only clips without additional charge.
Now popped up another question – how to lube the brake parts.
The O’Reilly guy sold me CRC Disc Brake Quiet.
At home I read the instruction and it says, for metal to metal parts to use crc synthetic brake & caliper grease. I bought the last one today from autozone but I am still confused.
I watched clips and read articles: For metal-on-metal lubrication, look for lubricants containing either molybdenum disulfide or graphite. So crc synthetic brake & caliper grease will work. For slide pins with rubber or plastic components, use silicone-based grease: Napa Sil Glyde, 3M Silicone Paste, or CRC Silaramic Brake System Grease.
CRC Disc Brake Quiet is NOT a lube. It is a compound that reduces vibration and squeal.
Your TRW pads have the shims that go behind the pads pre-installed, these do the same thing.
+++++++++++++
Either of the other two greases will work for you for lubricating: the slider pins, the edges of the pads, and under the retainers. I smear a little on the pieces where they contact the pads (caliper piston and outer caliper fingers) as well. Prevents rust.
The blue-packaged grease is for people like Hootie, who use their brakes HARD in competition.
I have used anti-seize on brake parts for years. We have 7 vehicles, 3 motorcycles, 1 John Deere diesel, and one airplane in our extended family. All of them but one that is a 2016 model have anti-seize on the brake parts. It works well and one tube or bottle will last a lifetime.
As for the stuff you bought, I have never tried it so I can not comment.
Even late I want to report for what I did and to thank you to all of you for the instructions and suggestions! I appreciate it!
Reason for the repair: Worn out brake pads, unevenly; Brakes grab immediately
Stuck pins were the cause of the failures. I lubricated pins with grease for metal brake parts (not silicone). This car doesn’t have rubber rings at the end of guide pins, so I think the silicon grease is not a must.
The new retainers are both different and no info inside the package. I didn’t find any information which one is upper or lower. I assumed, this one with additional tabs should be on top.
The front part on both clips was too wide and not able to get installed. I bent these small wings with thin nose pliers.
Lubricated brake pad’s ears to retainers and caliper to external pad and front surface of piston.
Tightened guide pin bolt 17lb.ft
When ready. Start the engine and pump the pedal several times until gets normally hard. It will be good to put the tire and to rotate it when still car is lifted to check for noise. I didn’t do that and I drove about ¼ mi with squeaking sounds. Test drove. Brakes work smoothly now.
01-22-2017, 05:11 PM
