Sprintex Supercharger Install
#41
That's great! No rush for me anyway. I am happy you guys are going through all the BS to get the CARB cert, more performance companies should do that and I have massive respect for you guys for trying.
#43
Just out curiosity with regards to CARB kits...
If someone were to buy a kit prior to CARB approval, would they be able to refit it later (either with the locked SMT-8L unit or matching locked map), without much hassle? Or would they simply be SOL?
If someone were to buy a kit prior to CARB approval, would they be able to refit it later (either with the locked SMT-8L unit or matching locked map), without much hassle? Or would they simply be SOL?
#44
I don't see why not. The wiring would stay the same. If you have other mods, then no. Our kits are tuned to be bolted onto stock vehicles. Every different tune would have to be CARB certified, multiplying the cost with every tune.
#45
Almost done with the supercharger installation: belt, MAP sensor hookup and bypass actuator install. I downloaded and installed the LetRipp software for the SMT from Perfect Power Software Download.
More stuff from eBay for DIY intake.
Hitachi MAF flange
2 1/2" diameter 4" long aluminum intercooler connector
Quick Tap 1/4" Aluminum Boost Pressure Fitting
K&N RX-4950 with built in velocity stack, 2 1/2" flange diameter and 5.5 " long
- LetRipp V2.1387 Software
- LetRipp V2 USB Driver - Update
More stuff from eBay for DIY intake.
Hitachi MAF flange
2 1/2" diameter 4" long aluminum intercooler connector
Quick Tap 1/4" Aluminum Boost Pressure Fitting
K&N RX-4950 with built in velocity stack, 2 1/2" flange diameter and 5.5 " long
Last edited by Steven Hung; 12-21-2013 at 06:22 PM.
#46
Almost done with the supercharger installation: belt, MAP sensor hookup and bypass actuator install. I downloaded and installed the LetRipp software for the SMT from Perfect Power Software Download.
More stuff from eBay for DIY intake.
Hitachi MAF flange
2 1/2" diameter 4" long aluminum intercooler connector
Quick Tap 1/4" Aluminum Boost Pressure Fitting
K&N RX-4950 with built in velocity stack, 2 1/2" flange diameter and 5.5 " long
- LetRipp V2.1387 Software
- LetRipp V2 USB Driver - Update
More stuff from eBay for DIY intake.
Hitachi MAF flange
2 1/2" diameter 4" long aluminum intercooler connector
Quick Tap 1/4" Aluminum Boost Pressure Fitting
K&N RX-4950 with built in velocity stack, 2 1/2" flange diameter and 5.5 " long
#48
You're right, EGT monitoring isn't redundant or obsolete. That sounds like nonsense you read from an inexperienced forum goer. The more information the better. Interpolualting data is time consuming and a waste of time, when you can have a simple measuring device to do te work.
#49
I got the car running tonight after the battery got fully charge to a little over 13v. Couldn't resist till morning. On the first, second and third crank the car refused to start. Stupid me forgot to plug back the PGM-FI main relay. Yeah with the relay in place the car started immediately. There is no fuel leak at the supplementary injector, new fuel line or at the fuel rail. The car idles like stock, no drama and with a little metallic hum. Step on the gas produces a small whine that would barely be notice it if you were not looking for it. During this time I have my laptop hooked up to the SMT running LetRipp but uncertain if the two are actively communicating. The status bar indicated USB comm ONLINE and polling Active. I will have to play with the data display function tomorrow to get it to display boost, RPM, engine temp and A/F. But first thing tomorrow morning I will have to go for a test drive after a slow trip to the gas station and a gallon of toluene. Next would be snake the USB cable into the cabin.
Thing I did before starting the car.
Thing I did before starting the car.
- Check battery is fully charged
- Check supercharger oil level
- Check motor oil level
- Check coolant level
- Check fuel level
#51
I went for a test drive this morning after stopping at the gas station for 6 gallons of 93 octane. There was 3 gallon of 87 octane in tank and I added one gallon of toluene. That puts the in tank mixture to around 93.3 octane.
(6 * 93) + (1 * 114) + (3 * 87) / 10 = 93.3
First Test Drive Impression.
The car idle very much like stock with the added rhythmic rrhhhh....rrrhhhh....rrrhhh from the supercharger. Road noise drowns it out. This morning there was very little stop and go traffic to test dead stop to “get go” transition. I thought at one point there was a slight hesitation at the traffic light from dead stop to get moving, applying gas while releasing the clutch. It could be the CDV. Once the car is moving the car drive like stock with more HP/TQ. I also tested high load transition to abruptly lifting off the gas on the highway several times and noticed hiccup a couple of times. Abrupt to high load transition, moving slow to quick stomping of the gas was funner than before. You will notice the added HP/TQ but it would not be pin me to the seat power. There is no engine pinging nor knocking base on my observation with the 93 octane. Does anyone know if the Ultra Gauge can be setup to monitor the knock sensor? The butt dyno tells me I have more power through out the rpm range but will need to confirm with some dyno sessions. I got to bug Gary about the Sprintex 93 octane map file.
The air box is vibrating and hitting the wiper motor mounting plate. Eventually this would drive me nuts. Hopefully parts for my DIY intake arrive next week. I don't observed more engine bay heat with the supercharger compare to the stock intake manifold. Does anybody have an infrared thermometer that I can borrow?
My Honda Fit Sport is a beater for a daily round trip 50 miles to and from work. I will need to track gas mileage.
. . . Got to start playing around with LetRipp . . .
(6 * 93) + (1 * 114) + (3 * 87) / 10 = 93.3
First Test Drive Impression.
The car idle very much like stock with the added rhythmic rrhhhh....rrrhhhh....rrrhhh from the supercharger. Road noise drowns it out. This morning there was very little stop and go traffic to test dead stop to “get go” transition. I thought at one point there was a slight hesitation at the traffic light from dead stop to get moving, applying gas while releasing the clutch. It could be the CDV. Once the car is moving the car drive like stock with more HP/TQ. I also tested high load transition to abruptly lifting off the gas on the highway several times and noticed hiccup a couple of times. Abrupt to high load transition, moving slow to quick stomping of the gas was funner than before. You will notice the added HP/TQ but it would not be pin me to the seat power. There is no engine pinging nor knocking base on my observation with the 93 octane. Does anyone know if the Ultra Gauge can be setup to monitor the knock sensor? The butt dyno tells me I have more power through out the rpm range but will need to confirm with some dyno sessions. I got to bug Gary about the Sprintex 93 octane map file.
The air box is vibrating and hitting the wiper motor mounting plate. Eventually this would drive me nuts. Hopefully parts for my DIY intake arrive next week. I don't observed more engine bay heat with the supercharger compare to the stock intake manifold. Does anybody have an infrared thermometer that I can borrow?
My Honda Fit Sport is a beater for a daily round trip 50 miles to and from work. I will need to track gas mileage.
. . . Got to start playing around with LetRipp . . .
#52
Ultra gauge cannot display knock events.
Have you used Torque for Android? They have a add-in called Knock Detector available in the Play store. I have not used it yet.
Have you used Torque for Android? They have a add-in called Knock Detector available in the Play store. I have not used it yet.
Last edited by jibberjabbs; 12-22-2013 at 10:12 AM.
#54
OP: are you sure this couldn't be rotated a little more downwards?
#55
The throttle body mounted to the inlet pipe that sits higher than the stock intake manifold. The stock air box can be rotated and press down but not enough to bolt to the two mount points. This is an easy and cheap fix with aluminum strip with both ends bend at right angle to form a U-bracket. I have decided to gut the air box and go with a cold air intake.
Here is the same shot but with the mount point enclosed in rectangle. The two bolt holes are right on top of one another. You have many ways to fix this. It is not difficult at all to fix and there is no hacking or cutting to the air box or any of the bolt holes.
Here is the same shot but with the mount point enclosed in rectangle. The two bolt holes are right on top of one another. You have many ways to fix this. It is not difficult at all to fix and there is no hacking or cutting to the air box or any of the bolt holes.
Last edited by Steven Hung; 12-22-2013 at 04:30 PM.
#56
I'm talking about rotating the inlet pipe... Are you sure you didn't just bolt it in at a high angle? Have you tried loosening the mount on the inlet pipe a little to see if rotates enough to lower the airbox?
#59
Fuzzyfunk, Could you share where you mounted the MAP sensors since you are not using the air box?
#60
JibberJabs, i would love to assist you but unfortunately my automotive knowledge is very limited. I am a new enthusiast and had my local tuner/mechanic install this. I messaged him just now and he has been following the forums recently since I brought him the sc. I asked him to chime in and share his knowledge which I'm sure he will. He is still working on my car actually and making sure everything is working correctly.