Sprintex Supercharger Install
#1181
10-31-2016, 12:36 PM
Fittedonem, I assume you got the MAP sensor relocated so it sees boost? Also the tune should be switched to MAP based WOT instead of throttle position, this is a ktuner option.
#1182
10-31-2016, 06:59 PM
My car is MT. Based on logging today, I had p2413 and P0443 come up (no cel, but these were logged). I will have to check out the afr details. I wasn't able to find much o the p2413.
I seem to have knock when shifting. I have extremely limited knowledge, but I don't think the knock count from shifting is accurate (picking up noise?). Maybe wishful thinking?
I seem to have knock when shifting. I have extremely limited knowledge, but I don't think the knock count from shifting is accurate (picking up noise?). Maybe wishful thinking?
Ordered the sprintex kit and it should arrive November 8th. I'm feeling pretty weary about the wiring issues with the piggyback. Even with the most recent updates to the kit it seems people are still having issues. Has ANYONE had a problem free install as far as pin location and all wiring ?
I feel I shouldn't install the kit until we buy another car for my wife (it's her car) since she commutes around 40 miles daily. A car throwing a CEL or misfire daily is not an option.
2012 Fit sport A/T
Weapon R header
Custom intake using stock MAF housing
Full exhaust (this week)
Tein S Tech
16x7 wheels on 205/50/16
I feel I shouldn't install the kit until we buy another car for my wife (it's her car) since she commutes around 40 miles daily. A car throwing a CEL or misfire daily is not an option.
2012 Fit sport A/T
Weapon R header
Custom intake using stock MAF housing
Full exhaust (this week)
Tein S Tech
16x7 wheels on 205/50/16
I appreciate the help so far guys. I'm about 500 miles in so far and the car has been fine besides the idling and the issues that I've already mentioned. At this point I'm convinced it has to be tuning error regardless of the tuner trying to blame it on the primary o2. Based on the UG lambda readings it seems that the o2 is responding just fine.
I did replace the plugs to see how they were doing and with how dark they already were, I'm assuming the tune really just needs to be redone. All 4 plugs looked like this. They had 2k on them before the SC and about 400 miles on them in this condition. I'll be replacing them again after the retune to see how they're holding up. I'm going to attempt to do the idle learn procedure and CKP relearn if I can. I feel like this may solve the rough idling issues before I take it back tomorrow.
Last edited by FittedOnEm; 10-31-2016 at 08:41 PM.
#1183
11-03-2016, 01:42 PM
After Tuesday's revisit with my tuner and about 200 miles in, I'm happy to report that I do not have any of the problems I previously listed.
-Starting crank fuel was corrected, no more cold start issues.
-Idling fuel trims adjusted, no more bogging or stalling out.
-EGR was disabled, no more P0400 code
I do have a residual issue, though. It seems that the ECU is operating under a different map when the car is in park. No matter what map we adjusted, the idling target AFR would not change. I'll be emailing KTuner about this. We have the current tune operating on MAP pressure at idle so the car hits the targeted AFR rather than running in closed loop and adjusting itself.
Other than that, car runs fantastic and still puts down the same numbers it did on the first dyno tune. It does run a bit more on the rich side, but this is mainly as a precaution for drivability. I'd rather have the car run rich than lean to avoid detonation and misfires. I'm keeping an eye on the short term ratios, it is much closer to spec (usually sitting between -4 to +5). Long term trim after the first 200 miles is at about -4 currently. I'll be changing the fluids out, along with the spark plugs in another 300 miles to see how everything is holding up.
It's so fun to drive, puts a smile on my face overtime the car keeps pulling all the way into 4th
-Starting crank fuel was corrected, no more cold start issues.
-Idling fuel trims adjusted, no more bogging or stalling out.
-EGR was disabled, no more P0400 code
I do have a residual issue, though. It seems that the ECU is operating under a different map when the car is in park. No matter what map we adjusted, the idling target AFR would not change. I'll be emailing KTuner about this. We have the current tune operating on MAP pressure at idle so the car hits the targeted AFR rather than running in closed loop and adjusting itself.
Other than that, car runs fantastic and still puts down the same numbers it did on the first dyno tune. It does run a bit more on the rich side, but this is mainly as a precaution for drivability. I'd rather have the car run rich than lean to avoid detonation and misfires. I'm keeping an eye on the short term ratios, it is much closer to spec (usually sitting between -4 to +5). Long term trim after the first 200 miles is at about -4 currently. I'll be changing the fluids out, along with the spark plugs in another 300 miles to see how everything is holding up.
It's so fun to drive, puts a smile on my face overtime the car keeps pulling all the way into 4th
#1184
12-03-2016, 03:44 PM
hey everyone! just wanted to do a little checkup and see how everyone is running.
i still haven't emailed ktuner about my idle tuning issue, i've been lazy lately and the car has been fine. haven't had a single issue since my last post, although long term fuel trims are sitting around -10 to -7 lately. not worried about it though, better rich than lean in my eyes.
has anyone switched oil weights for the motor itself? i've been thinking of stepping up to something a little heavier than my current 0w20.
anyone else have updates?
i still haven't emailed ktuner about my idle tuning issue, i've been lazy lately and the car has been fine. haven't had a single issue since my last post, although long term fuel trims are sitting around -10 to -7 lately. not worried about it though, better rich than lean in my eyes.
has anyone switched oil weights for the motor itself? i've been thinking of stepping up to something a little heavier than my current 0w20.
anyone else have updates?
#1185
12-03-2016, 06:55 PM
hey everyone! just wanted to do a little checkup and see how everyone is running.
i still haven't emailed ktuner about my idle tuning issue, i've been lazy lately and the car has been fine. haven't had a single issue since my last post, although long term fuel trims are sitting around -10 to -7 lately. not worried about it though, better rich than lean in my eyes.
has anyone switched oil weights for the motor itself? i've been thinking of stepping up to something a little heavier than my current 0w20.
anyone else have updates?
i still haven't emailed ktuner about my idle tuning issue, i've been lazy lately and the car has been fine. haven't had a single issue since my last post, although long term fuel trims are sitting around -10 to -7 lately. not worried about it though, better rich than lean in my eyes.
has anyone switched oil weights for the motor itself? i've been thinking of stepping up to something a little heavier than my current 0w20.
anyone else have updates?
regarding the oil,
on this HKS CR-Z Pro-Kit (Upgraded Kit),
the recommended oil there is 5W30
Pro Kit?CR-Z
This HKS kit came with oil cooler (no fan)
but it is making much more horsepower than our Sprintex.
from my experience so far,
it is very hard for my Setrab oil cooler fan and my THIRD radiator fan to turn on, even if it turn on, it is only for a very brief period..., I actually never see with my eyes when the Setrab oil cooler fan and THIRD radiator fan activated,
I only see it on my Defi Water Temp gauge, when sometimes at high cruising speed where my water temp was stable for a while,
but suddenly goes down low fast (with A/C on meaning the other 2 radiator fan already constantly on, meaning the only way it goes down so quickly out of nowhere is because the third radiator fan is activated).
I wire this third radiator fan in parallel with the Setrab oil cooler fan using the Setrab thermostat switch to activated both.
so I don't think our sprintex application needed a thicker oil...
but I also change my hood with ventilated hood,
I drill much more holes on the standard Honda Fit grills,
I don't use the cr-z lower engine cover anymore,
and I do have the setrab oil cooler (with fan) and the third radiator fan...
so maybe that is why in my setup, I don't experience high temperature anymore...
I was originally thinking of using Motul 300V 5W30 for my next oil change...
but after looking at how cool my engine running now, I might stick with the cheaper Mobil 1 0W20...
or if I feel like it, I buy Motul 300V OW20... (funny how Motul OW20 is much more expensive than Motul 300V 5W30).
too bad I haven't have money to buy the Mugen Assist meter with Oil Pressure and Oil temperature gauge so I can really monitor my oil temperature...
but if my Setrab fan thermostat switch is correct (I will done more test to ensure nothing wrong with my thermostat swtich in the coming months),... my oil very rarely reach 80celcius... otherwise the Setrab fan would turn on often so I better stick with 0W20 for now...
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 12-03-2016 at 07:18 PM.
#1186
12-03-2016, 07:17 PM
Another suggestion:
Improving air flow though the engine bay and cooling system is the best (cheap) modification to help the performance of Sprintex equipped car.
Our Sprintex supercharger is so prone to heat soak.
First step:
Do NOT put chicken wire mesh on the lower part of the bumper.
I bought a plastic chicken wire mesh to protect the A/C condenser from rock,
and it end up restricting air flow and increase engine temperature, I saw this on my Defi water temperature gauge, so I end up removing it again...
Second step:
Do NOT use the CR-Z lower engine cover,
it might improve aerodynamic at very high speed, but it also make engine run hotter
I saw this on my Defi water temperature gauge.
Third step:
If you have factory OEM sports grill, make more holes in the grills so more air can pass through, it really helped. a lot of surface area was blanked... probably to help with aero from the factory
Third and a half step:
If you have any twin horn or any electricity wiring installed behind the grill,
relocate or re reruote it so it won't block any airflow to the radiator, or if it still block, as little as possible...
I even use extension to relocate the horn at lower height just behind the rebar...
so it's at the area where the rebar/bumper already blocking air flow anyway...
but the air now flow much more efficient from the holes in the grilles right through the radiator (more accurately through the A/C condenser first then radiator).
Forth step:
If you have intake modification, try to find one that is really cold air intake, one of the idea is the CR-Z factory original intake which is good and not expensive and it have that snorkel to really suck cold air. you can improve it a bit with K&N drop in filter...
Fifth step:
Get some kind of Ventilated Hood, I use JDP ventilated hood, to help hot air
evacuate and flow through the supercharger upper casing, it also really helped.
those above 5 steps are cheap method to improve air flow
and IF You COMBINE ALL FIVE STEPS above,
it will give very good effect on the Sprintex performance to reduce the heat soak effect.
At this current california ambient temperature of 64 Fahrenheit,
I can actually put my hand on top of the Sprintex supercharger casing right after
driving it, it's just warm...
next step will involve water meth injection but it is not cheap and complicated...
edit:
Here is the link to my project air flow diy:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...nted-hood.html
Improving air flow though the engine bay and cooling system is the best (cheap) modification to help the performance of Sprintex equipped car.
Our Sprintex supercharger is so prone to heat soak.
First step:
Do NOT put chicken wire mesh on the lower part of the bumper.
I bought a plastic chicken wire mesh to protect the A/C condenser from rock,
and it end up restricting air flow and increase engine temperature, I saw this on my Defi water temperature gauge, so I end up removing it again...
Second step:
Do NOT use the CR-Z lower engine cover,
it might improve aerodynamic at very high speed, but it also make engine run hotter
I saw this on my Defi water temperature gauge.
Third step:
If you have factory OEM sports grill, make more holes in the grills so more air can pass through, it really helped. a lot of surface area was blanked... probably to help with aero from the factory
Third and a half step:
If you have any twin horn or any electricity wiring installed behind the grill,
relocate or re reruote it so it won't block any airflow to the radiator, or if it still block, as little as possible...
I even use extension to relocate the horn at lower height just behind the rebar...
so it's at the area where the rebar/bumper already blocking air flow anyway...
but the air now flow much more efficient from the holes in the grilles right through the radiator (more accurately through the A/C condenser first then radiator).
Forth step:
If you have intake modification, try to find one that is really cold air intake, one of the idea is the CR-Z factory original intake which is good and not expensive and it have that snorkel to really suck cold air. you can improve it a bit with K&N drop in filter...
Fifth step:
Get some kind of Ventilated Hood, I use JDP ventilated hood, to help hot air
evacuate and flow through the supercharger upper casing, it also really helped.
those above 5 steps are cheap method to improve air flow
and IF You COMBINE ALL FIVE STEPS above,
it will give very good effect on the Sprintex performance to reduce the heat soak effect.
At this current california ambient temperature of 64 Fahrenheit,
I can actually put my hand on top of the Sprintex supercharger casing right after
driving it, it's just warm...
next step will involve water meth injection but it is not cheap and complicated...
edit:
Here is the link to my project air flow diy:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...nted-hood.html
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 12-03-2016 at 07:32 PM.
#1187
12-06-2016, 11:04 AM
BMW ALPINA - When you had your intake manifold ported, did you have them gasket match it or just have them clean up all the internal runners to match the current openings? I thought about having it gasket matched but it looks like that would make the IM ports slightly bigger than the head ports.
#1188
12-06-2016, 11:37 PM
hey everyone! just wanted to do a little checkup and see how everyone is running.
i still haven't emailed ktuner about my idle tuning issue, i've been lazy lately and the car has been fine. haven't had a single issue since my last post, although long term fuel trims are sitting around -10 to -7 lately. not worried about it though, better rich than lean in my eyes.
has anyone switched oil weights for the motor itself? i've been thinking of stepping up to something a little heavier than my current 0w20.
anyone else have updates?
i still haven't emailed ktuner about my idle tuning issue, i've been lazy lately and the car has been fine. haven't had a single issue since my last post, although long term fuel trims are sitting around -10 to -7 lately. not worried about it though, better rich than lean in my eyes.
has anyone switched oil weights for the motor itself? i've been thinking of stepping up to something a little heavier than my current 0w20.
anyone else have updates?
#1189
12-08-2016, 12:49 AM
BMW ALPINA - When you had your intake manifold ported, did you have them gasket match it or just have them clean up all the internal runners to match the current openings? I thought about having it gasket matched but it looks like that would make the IM ports slightly bigger than the head ports.
I have them GASKET MATCH on all 4 outlet of the Sprintex lower manifold
#1190
12-16-2016, 01:42 AM
I finally able to solve my hard to start problem... what I mean by hard to start is, it need 2 to 3 times longer cranking on the start motor before it start, no matter when the motor is cold or hot...
so I see the retard timing map on my AEM F/IC-6 and notice some anomaly where at lower RPM and lower boost, the timing were retarded 5 degrees, while at higher rpm and higher boost ,the timing were retarded far far less...
so I start extrapolating using the value at much higher rpm/boost going and change all the 5 degress retard value to a gradual value based on the higher rpm/boost extrapolation...
and....
now my car able to start even faster with less crank then when it was without sprintex supercharger... that is really amazing.......
I think when it was tune at church tune, he either confuse the sound of the noise from the tube going to the AEM fic as detonation/knocking so he retard the ignition,
or he just copy and paste the wrong value on the ignition map...
Another thing is, my car no longer have the hesitation that I experience whenever the car start moving from stop... it just go now, and the lower rpm to midrange acceleration is much faster and more responsive....
I am going to check my spark plug soon to see the color of the ceramic...
another thing I notice, my exhaust tips is not covered in dark soot so much now...
it must be the retard ignition causing so much unburn fuel...
and my car fuel economy also improve...
so I see the retard timing map on my AEM F/IC-6 and notice some anomaly where at lower RPM and lower boost, the timing were retarded 5 degrees, while at higher rpm and higher boost ,the timing were retarded far far less...
so I start extrapolating using the value at much higher rpm/boost going and change all the 5 degress retard value to a gradual value based on the higher rpm/boost extrapolation...
and....
now my car able to start even faster with less crank then when it was without sprintex supercharger... that is really amazing.......
I think when it was tune at church tune, he either confuse the sound of the noise from the tube going to the AEM fic as detonation/knocking so he retard the ignition,
or he just copy and paste the wrong value on the ignition map...
Another thing is, my car no longer have the hesitation that I experience whenever the car start moving from stop... it just go now, and the lower rpm to midrange acceleration is much faster and more responsive....
I am going to check my spark plug soon to see the color of the ceramic...
another thing I notice, my exhaust tips is not covered in dark soot so much now...
it must be the retard ignition causing so much unburn fuel...
and my car fuel economy also improve...
#1191
12-30-2016, 08:53 PM
Hi everybody,
just in case you feel upgrading the OEM Honda fuel line that you now reuse
after switching to K-Tuner setup or any other non 5th injector setup (line mine using AEM F/IC-6)
I happened to just upgrade mine few days ago with Goodridge 910 Series PTFE with Aramid (Kevlar) Fiber reinforced hose. My setup also allow you to check the Fuel Pressure with the analog gauge and ready for future Electronic Fuel Pressure sensor. Here is the link:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...rced-hose.html
just in case you feel upgrading the OEM Honda fuel line that you now reuse
after switching to K-Tuner setup or any other non 5th injector setup (line mine using AEM F/IC-6)
I happened to just upgrade mine few days ago with Goodridge 910 Series PTFE with Aramid (Kevlar) Fiber reinforced hose. My setup also allow you to check the Fuel Pressure with the analog gauge and ready for future Electronic Fuel Pressure sensor. Here is the link:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...rced-hose.html
#1192
01-03-2017, 05:26 PM
I got an e-dyno from the tuner!
Sprintex stock boost 5th injector block off
Ktuner
410cc injectors
3" short ram intake
weld in muffler
Sprintex stock boost 5th injector block off
Ktuner
410cc injectors
3" short ram intake
weld in muffler
#1193
01-19-2017, 11:46 AM
Hey guys, if anyone is interested or knows anyone that is interested in a Sprintex kit, mine is for sale with KTuner, injectors, and fuel pump. I have details listed in my part out thread, and I can be PM'd for more details. Thanks!
#1194
02-16-2017, 08:44 AM
Has anyone done speed density conversion with KTuner yet? Kenny told me he has tuned a few with speed density.
#1196
02-16-2017, 03:52 PM
What IAT sensor did you used? Did you relocation the IAT sensor with a weld in bung? My intake manifold is at the shop to have an 3/8" NPT bung weld on for a GM 25036751, Home » Shop » Sensors » Temp Sensors » ACDelco Fast-Response GM Delphi / Packard Intake Air Temperature Sensor ( IAT / MAT / ACT ) or Manifold Air Temperature Sensor. I just ordered the E-Tune from Kenny this morning.
Last edited by Steven Hung; 02-16-2017 at 03:57 PM.
#1197
02-21-2017, 07:19 PM
What IAT sensor did you used? Did you relocation the IAT sensor with a weld in bung? My intake manifold is at the shop to have an 3/8" NPT bung weld on for a GM 25036751, Home » Shop » Sensors » Temp Sensors » ACDelco Fast-Response GM Delphi / Packard Intake Air Temperature Sensor ( IAT / MAT / ACT ) or Manifold Air Temperature Sensor. I just ordered the E-Tune from Kenny this morning.
#1198
02-22-2017, 07:37 AM
I have no MAF sensor at all. The KTuner tune from Kenny uses the Honda Fit GE OEM map sensor along with a GM IAT sensor mounted on the intake plenum. GM 25036751 IAT is closed enough spec to the Honda OEM temperature sensor that no remapping is necessary. I have been running this setup since this past Saturday with a laptop plug-in for data logging. The highest intake temperature I have seen in the intake plenum is 160 °F. Water injection should lower it. Car is running fine with the first tune map from Kenny with a couple of issues that need to be sorted out.
#1199
02-23-2017, 05:27 PM
No MAF sensor, GM IAT sensor mounted to the intake plenum with sensor wires tapped in the MAF Sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector. Couple of issues needed to be sorted out then I am good to go.
#1200
02-24-2017, 10:46 PM
Successfully installed my sprintex kit with smt8 and pnp harness. Its been a few days with no issues. Install went smooth and took 3 hours including replacing spark plugs with ngk bkr7eix-11.
Car has weapon r header, yonaka catback and custom intake with stock maf housing. Running 93 octane with no obvious signs of detonation. Plan on getting tuned in a month or two.
Car is not fast by any means but the much needed additional torque is fantastic. Most important of all is my Wife is happy with the additional power and improved driveability.
Car has weapon r header, yonaka catback and custom intake with stock maf housing. Running 93 octane with no obvious signs of detonation. Plan on getting tuned in a month or two.
Car is not fast by any means but the much needed additional torque is fantastic. Most important of all is my Wife is happy with the additional power and improved driveability.