above you wrote that you replaced the RDX injector,
is this mean you replaced an older RDX injector with a new RDX injector
after you had this error code?
Do you use an OEM Honda RDX Injector ?

Also at CR-Z forum one of the poster there item9 (he no longer active),
had bad experience with his RDX injector failing within a year...
and he said this is common problem with actual RDX community...

I also use RDX injector.. so I am also worry...

also have you check the spark plug and see if the electrode is dark (showing too rich)?
My AEM FIC tune is intentionally rich (but of course not too rich to cause the error), and my plug was dark (showing bit too rich)...
so I lean it a bit...

oh, also do you feel the power is not there (because too rich), and how about starting, is it hard to start?
mine was very hard to start when the plug was fouling and the power was not really there

I just want to confirm whether, your tune was indeed too rich (which you will feel no power and dark plug) or your sensor read it wrong, which is dangerous because the car will try to lean it...

 

I don't have a P0172. Sorry.

But i do have a P0171 code. and a very random loss of power for a split second.

 

Hi Guys,

I think both of you need to have AEM UEGO Air to Fuel Ratio Meter,
so you can see the real A/F ratio...
I have the AEM UEGO meter front and center on top of my speedometer
so I can see the number all the time.
I always worry with my engine blew up due to too lean,
so I make sure it is not...
I also have the Temperature Gauge right beside the AEM UEGO,
and I watch it like a hawk too... because engine that get too hot
can also mean too lean condition...
Those 2 gauge are small investment compare to problem with engine blew up...

 

I'm now a member of the Sprintex family as of Saturday 10/22!

Installation details:
-Acura RDX 410cc Injectors
-Evo X Fuel Pump
-KTuner ECU Reflash
---Tune done by Church Automotive
-Denso IK22 spark plugs
-Port and polished lower intake manifold
-Restrictor removed from intake elbow
---Coupler used in place of the O-ring
-MAP port & 5th injector port on the intake elbow welded shut
-Injen cold air intake
-Weapon-R header
-2.25" B-Pipe w/ vibrant ultra quiet resonator and street power muffler

So far, so good. I had a couple issues with the RDX injectors sealing against the fuel rail but switching out the O-rings solved that issue. The Injen intake is rubbing against my battery (I upgraded to a 51r) so I'll be trimming some of the intake to bring it closer to the throttle body. I forgot to take finished pictures of all the ports sealed up along with the final pictures after the porting was done on the lower intake manifold.
Pictures / Videos









Dyno graph


0-60 time
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/41754576@N03/30552369205/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_0277"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5619/30552369205_7117be6784_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="IMG_0277"></a>

One current issue I have noticed is a slight bog at idle when revving at 100% throttle blipping. After speaking to a couple other users and a few of my more mechanically inclined friends, seems like it's nothing to worry about since the supercharger is adding more mass onto the pulley system. It seems to bog down occasionally when the car shifts back into first gear at a rolling stop and I take off again. Not too worried about this either since it tended to do the same thing pre-supercharger.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/41754576@N03/29921738194/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_0273"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5606/29921738194_c0a1c2c77a_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="IMG_0273"></a>

The only other issue I have is cold starts. From what I can tell through KTuner, it seems to be a bit lean on cold starts so it has a bit of trouble initially turning over but will idle just fine. On one occasion the car threw pending codes for P0300, P0301, P0302, P0302, P0303, P0304. I haven't been able to get the car to replicate the codes besides that one occasion so far. Once the car is warm, my UG stops throwing the pending code alarms. It is definitely not misfiring, I can say that for sure. Car pulls VERY strong through all gears / RPMs.

The only other pending code I have gotten is a P0400 on two occasions. The EGR seems to be sealed to the manifold just time, so I'm not sure what's going on there. It's a generic code so I'm not too worried about it, my guess is that the added boost pressure in the manifold is throwing off the EGR flow. I could be wrong but it seems like I'm the only one that has thrown this code.

I have about 250 miles on it so far, I'll be replacing the spark plugs and oil once I get to 500 miles. It feels absolutely fantastic, it's just enough power for what the car needs. I'm very impressed by the kit so far, fingers crossed for many more happy miles to come. I also want to thank everyone I PM'd during this process! If anyone has any input for the two issues I posted above it would be much appreciated. Again, they're only pending codes and the car has yet to throw a full trouble code.

 

CONGRATULATIONS

 

By the way, somehow your car make 16.2 more horsepower
and 9.6lbft more than mine ...
we both have AT Car, and mine is actually a 2013 with less mileage too...
this is kinda... sad hahaha

the difference was, when I tune mine, I was using IK-24 (now IK-22),
and I use T1R header plus OEM stock secondary cat,
while you are using Weapon R...
I have CR-Z Mugen Intake and you have Injen...
and of course you use K-Tuner and I use AEM FIC...

Oh, I actually have the maxbore throttle body...

hmmmm... I bet the main difference is the Weapon R and the K-Tuner...
plus my AEM F/IC-6 was tune way too rich...

Did you experience any heat soak when Church tune your car?
I tune back in July, it was summer hot...
so they had to spray water from their garden hose on top of my supercharger while Daniel tune my car...
did Daniel tune your car or Shawn himself?

The main advantage so far by tuning with AEM F/IC-6 is I never have any engine error code though...

 

On your issue of car too lean during cold start,
if I am not mistaken, the K-Tuner can adjust the starting fuel trim...
My car also take a bit longer/more starter motor cranking each time I want to start the car, but since AEM F/IC-6 is not capable of adjusting the starting fuel trim,
nothing much I can do with mine...

 

I think the gain in power is due to the secondary cat and my tune with ktuner. Aside from that, our builds are near identical considering your throttle body probably makes up for my lack of an airbox.

I totally understand what you meant by the customer service at Church - they didn't seem very happy but got the job done nonetheless. Daniel did my car also, I brought up your car when he was running into issues getting the car to idle. It was only 80 degrees during my tune so i didn't have any heat issues. It's been cold / rainy lately so I haven't encountered any hot weather yet.

As far as the error codes go, it still hasn't thrown a full code yet - only pending codes. I just took the car out again and the pending code for the P0400 came back. Still not sure what's up with that, gonna look more into the issue on other platforms. I highly doubt my EGR valve decided to randomly go bad and from what I can tell, theres no leak.

That's one thing that confuses me, as far as I know KTuner is able to adjust the starting fuel trim. I can't adjust it myself though since I don't have the refreshed map from Church. I'm going to try and contact them to get a copy of the new map and see if I can play around with the starting trims a bit for a steadier start.

From tonight, the first couple revolutions after it turns over are a little rough but the car idled just fine from there. This was with a cold start as well, UG read about 70 degrees for engine temp.

My only other comment on the car so far is how much noticeably louder the exhaust has gotten. I expected the extra supercharger whine but I didn't expect the exhaust note to change my much. I'm going to start looking into solutions to get it quieter, a little too much attention for my taste.

 

Good Morning,
after hearing you don't experience heat soak, and the cold ambient temp while you tune,
now I understand why mine was making much less horsepower than yours.
Once we get back to summer again (hot weather) you will feel the car is way much slower.... right now, I know for sure my car is much faster then back in July.

Yes, I agree, the absent of second cat at your car should help your car make more power, but I think it is the hot weather that really make my car make much less power than yours because Daniel had to dump so much more fuel and retard timing at that time fighting for detonation cause by heat soak...

hmmmm.... ok... I think I really need to put Aquamist Water Injection system when budget available... plus buy larger pipe MagnaFlow Direct Fit second cat... to help the flow through the second cat...
that or buy the CR-Z HKS one that came with the downpipe too...

Now regarding the map at K-Tuner,
again if I am not mistaken, some people was able to copy their base OEM Honda Map right before they flash their ecu with K-Tuner...
which mean, you can also copy your current Church Tuned Map to your laptop and make another copy of it to play around with the starting fuel trim yourself... too bad I haven't bought K-Tuner yet, so I don't know for sure, but I do plan to buy K-Tuner just to adjust the starting fuel trim...

Talking about error code that several of you guys with K-Tuner/Sprintex combo experience, I am now a bit worried about using K-Tuner though,
plus I remember few months ago they suppose to issue the revision where you can do speed density fueling, expanded map for boost (and several beta features),... and from their website, I see they had not done it...
so even if I buy I will wait until they make all their beta features available... even then I still might use my AEM F/IC-6 just because I can have dual map function with AEM F/IC-6 so I can have one map for hot weather/summer and one map for colder fall/winter/spring weather...
and just use the K-Tuner to adjust the starting fuel trim...

oh, I also experience the hesitation from standing start and I though the K-Tuner can eliminate this, actually K-Tuner should be able to eliminate this and also the dip at high 6k rpm just before redline...
but from your dyno chart it's look like it did not...
another thing that I wish Church had done is they do road tune after dyno tune just so they can experience that the car do bog down a bit from standing start, or the dip at that high 6k rpm... so they can fix it with K-tuner.
My AEM F/IC-6 of course most likely will not be able to fix the dip at that high 6k rpm but it should be able to overcome the hesitation from standing start, but they don't do road tune...
I plan to try different tuner next time after I upgrade to smaller pulley and aquamist water injection... perhaps sometime next year...

Yes, Church tuning get the job done, but like you, I also experience they don't look too happy there,
when I ask questions they answer me politely but short/not detail, I actually have to ask for dyno chart, otherwise they don't automatically give me...
and I remember
another member here who have that Zage Turbo Kit and just tune with church and ktuner few months ago, forget to ask for dynochart and I don't think he ever get a dynochart otherwise he would post it on his thread...
Shawn the owner of Church never greet me while I was there, I mean if I am a business owner, I would at least smile/nod or say hi to my customer who is going to spend $450 there, and I was the only customer there at that time, not like the store is pack and he is busy with other customer,... I feel like I came to a home while the family member at that home were having a fight among themselves...
Maybe I came during a bad day ...

Anyway based on all the above, I now doubt they really tune my car to the most optimum / precise level,... it's not a bad tune but just not to the level of perfection I think they can be considering the price and the legendary reputation they have...
too bad I can not afford a dyno now hahaha
because as people use to say, if you want perfection, you better do it yourself...

 

Check your O2 sensor, or for some sort of vacuum leak

 

The above post was correct, you should be able to adjust the cranking trim. RE: Bogging issue; I have that as well, its more apparent with the AC on, so I assume it's the extra mass as well, isn't really much of an issue, only happens in 1st gear.

 

Updates on my experiences so far:
TL;DR - pretty sure all my issues are related to my idling problems.

Cold starts:
When the engine coolant temp reads below 120 degrees or so, it has a little trouble when it initially cranks but the car will catch itself and idle just fine after that. Warm starts above 120 or so it'll start just fine without hesitating.

P0300-P0304:
On cold starts the car will *sometimes* start showing these codes pending but it's only on cold starts. I can't get the car to throw the pending code under any other conditions. Since Saturday the car has shown the pending codes twice and has only thrown the full code once. From what I can tell, the car isn't misfiring. I think it might have to do with the idle. From my last experiment, from what KTuner is showing as soon as I rev the car will throw the pending codes if the long term fuel trims are out of spec, which would make sense.

P0400:
This is the most common pending code so far. Doesn't matter what conditions, it'll randomly come on as pending. It hasn't thrown a full code for this yet. From what I can tell, there is no EGR leak to the manifold but I'm checking over everything tomorrow. I feel like this issue is also related to the idling issues since the AFR readings are all out of order when the car is idling in park vs idling in drive with my foot on the brake. See below for those AFR's.

P0171:
From what I've seen through the ultragauge in short term and long term fuel trims, the car is starting to throw this code because of the idle. When the car is in park and idling, the short term will pull fuel back to -31.2. When the car is in drive with my foot on the brake idling, it'll add fuel to +46.88. This started happening today after I let the car idle for about 10 minutes at school, took a short 8 mile drive, and about 3 minutes into sitting at the drive thru the pending code came on. When I restarted the car later tonight and let it idle for a bit, the full CEL came on. From what I can tell, the CEL came on from the car trying to idle the car in drive and the values going above 25 in the long term fuel trim triggering the full CEL.

P0172:
As I expected, letting the car idle in park threw the long term trim out like crazy so the car thinks it's running too rich.

AFR Readings:
Idle in park: 13.2
Idle in drive: 16.3

Short term fuel trims:
Idling is like I said in the section above. At WOT and most engine load %, short term stays right at 0. During normal driving conditions with some minor throttle input to stay at speed, the car will usually stay at 0 and in some inputs jump to +7 at the most, but in general it'll stay under +3.

I'll be changing out the spark plugs tomorrow and checking everything over and make sure it's not a fuel related issue, so far it seems to be a tuning error at idle. Lastly, I tried downloading the map from KTuner using the "Download Tune" option under the tuning menu, but the selection was not available. I'll be calling Church tomorrow for them to send me a copy of the map, but if anyone has any input as to how to download it directly from the car that would be helpful as well.

 

Welcome to the club Fitedonem. Looks like you are you are on the right track and doing this the right way. Hopefully you can get your map from Church. Here is my current cranking map and ECT correction maps for referance:

 

Thanks for the reference, I'll pass that along to Church.

I've made another discovery. Judging off of the ultragauge, the short term trims will stay at 0 whenever the car is in boost and sometimes when it's completely off throttle and coasting. When I'm cruising and adjusting throttle input out of boost, the short terms go up to +15 at some points but overall, it seems that the car is leaning out when not in boost pressure.

I'll most likely have to take it back to church so they can get it on a dyno and adjust for all these little issues when the car is in boost. Seems to me like the tune was rushed since at WOT and under boost pressure the car is running fine, but driveability out of boost is not in spec.

I'll keep my experiences updated.

 

Hi,
when at higher rpm or high load and close to WOT (and at WOT) and off throttle/coasting, my scangauge show I am on Open Loop mode which is I think the reason why fuel trim is 0 because the car just dump fuel base on the map without adjusting it based on the input from the primary O2 sensor.
so for the short term to go to +15 on closed loop mode is normal... I think...

 

Whoops, my bad. The code i have is a P101

 

Hi Fittedonem;

I installed the charger about 2 weeks ago.
- ktuner
- rdx injectors
- denso ik22
I had the P0400 code for a short period. It is gone and hasn't returned. Idling on cold start is a bit rough. Rpm will drop occasionally. I am etuning and am hoping some of the rough Idling will improve with revisions.

What does your knock count look like when logging? I haven't been able to find information about knock counts related to the supercharger.

Rely

 

That would make sense, but I'm not sure about that either. It seems to be a bit of everywhere, but either way the short term trims at idle are making the car throw the long term trims everywhere. It seems fine when I'm driving, but as soon as I idle too long, the problems come again. The fact that the AFR's vary so much from the car being in idle to the car being in drive at a stop worry me. It shouldn't be trying to go so lean / rich at a full stop.

I'm bringing it back to Church on Tuesday. The tuner is blaming it on my primary o2 sensor being bad but I highly doubt that since the car would've thrown a hard code for it by now, but we'll see I guess. I told them if anything I want the car put back on the dyno to try and get it to idle properly. I'm changing out the plugs before then so I'll take a look at how they're doing as well. Either way I'll get a copy of the map so if the worst happens and Church can't fix it (which, in my opinion would be ridiculous since all of you guys run with next to no trouble codes), I'll have a couple friends look it over and see if we can correct it.

Sounds like a couple similar issues, are you AT or MT?
I feel like the P0400 is because of my idling problems and some of the drivability because the EGR is trying to correct itself for the varying AFR ratios, but I could be wrong. From what I've researched, it sounds like we're the only two that have encountered it.

I haven't been able to closely monitor the knock count because I don't have a windows based computer to data log (I use a mac and I'm too cheap to buy Bootcamp to run the windows OS), but from what I've seen at idle the knock count will go up a bit when I rev it. I'll see if I can borrow my roommates laptop for an afternoon and get a better number for you on average with the KTuner plugged in.

 

My car is MT. Based on logging today, I had p2413 and P0443 come up (no cel, but these were logged). I will have to check out the afr details. I wasn't able to find much o the p2413.

I seem to have knock when shifting. I have extremely limited knowledge, but I don't think the knock count from shifting is accurate (picking up noise?). Maybe wishful thinking?

 

Ordered the sprintex kit and it should arrive November 8th. I'm feeling pretty weary about the wiring issues with the piggyback. Even with the most recent updates to the kit it seems people are still having issues. Has ANYONE had a problem free install as far as pin location and all wiring ?

I feel I shouldn't install the kit until we buy another car for my wife (it's her car) since she commutes around 40 miles daily. A car throwing a CEL or misfire daily is not an option.

2012 Fit sport A/T
Weapon R header
Custom intake using stock MAF housing
Full exhaust (this week)
Tein S Tech
16x7 wheels on 205/50/16