Honda Fit 2009+ GE8 Apexi V-Tec Air Fuel Controller install, I managed to pick up a brand new Apexi Gen 1 for $200 on ebay. If Hondata ever gets around to making an FlashPro, I will remove the VAFC from my car and purchase the Hondata. Until then, the VAFC controllers work well on the Hondas since the early 90s when no other option for tuning was available. It can adjust the air/ ratio and at what rpm the V-Tec kicks in.

Jun at Apexi was a great help with the install, he was very patient and very knowledgeable. The USA Apexi distributor doesn't have a listed email, you have to call the direct with any questions at 714.685.5700 in CA.

The SAFC is for MAF cars, yes our cars do have a MAF, but Jun at Apexi confirmed the MAP is what controls the fuel maps at WOT.

Things to consider:
The VAFC and VAFC2 will control the V-tec on the I-VTec (our engines). The NEO WILL NOT WORK on our V-Tec system. So you are better off using the older version, you can pick them up cheaper and they can use the V-Tec adjustment.

I set the V-Tec at 3500 RPMs to make sure the VAFC was working. From the pic below you can see it does at 3668 RPMs it's "ON" and everything is working.


You have to remove the battery, and the ECU that is located under the hood to do the wiring. If you ave a CAI you maybe able to work around it. If you have the OEM airbox you will have to remove it to feed the wire through the firewall. I made a small slit in the harness rubber boot that runs through the fire wall and fed it through there, and had enough wiring.

Tuning:
First option is to have a local tuner do it for around $300+/-. Best option.

Second option is to Tune it your self.... This can be very dangerous!!!!!
I used the AEM UEGO wide-band and connected used the Busted Finger Cable, for Data Logging, to my laptop.There is free Software for data logging and tuning, google. I will not share what A/F ratio I'm running, because I don't want to be liable for others blowing their engines. If you don't know how to tune have a professional tune it. I will say the OEM A/F is 11:1, which is very rich, to protect your engine. Running higher octane will produce better results and be safer for the engine from this point on. I will have it dyno'd and post results.

Busted Finger Cable:
http://zombieshop.bustedfingermotors...roducts_id=187


This is the AEM UEGO and Busted Finger Cable setup, the white BF cable is a USB that connects to you laptop straight from the gauge:


AEM UGEO:


BF Cable:







Link to 2009+ Honda Fit OEM ECU Pin Outs:
http://www.xpttuning.com/docs/honda/...ecupinouts.pdf


Apexi Wiring Diagram for VAFC only:



ECU Pin Outs:

IG Power (red):
C10=Black/Red (IG1)


IG Power (orange):
not used, tape back it is used for dimming


Ground 1 (black):
B10=Black (PG1)


Ground 2 (brown):
B10=Black (PG1)
Note: Yes, both grounds are connected to the same wire, BUT MAKE SURE THEY ARE 1 INCH APART FROM EACH OTHER.


RPM Signal (green):
A29=Light Blue (NEP)


Throttle Signal (gray)
A18=Orange (PSA)


VTM (blue)
C22=Blue/ Black
Note: The wire to the sensor gets taped back (not used), and the VAFC is wired to the ECU side (see wiring pic)

VTM: Oil Pressure Signal for the V-Tec


V-Tec Solenoid Signal (purple=ECU, pink=sensor)
B35=Green/Yellow (VTS)
Note: Pin 34 is EXACTLY THE SAME COLOR WIRE, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PIN #35


Pressure Sensor (yellow=ECU, white=sensor)
C11=Green/Red


After Install:
DO NOT START THE ENGINE!!!
Turn the key to accessory, the VAFC will start up now.
1. Go into "Sensor Type" and adjust IN to "06" and OUT to "06"
2. Go into "Car Select" and set CYL to "4", and THR to the arrow up and to the right
3. Go into "Sensor Check" with your foot off the accel pedal it should be around .9V, at WOT it should be 4.5V
4. Turn off car
5. Now it is safe to start the car.
6. Tune It!!!




There are three versions that will work on or cars.
1st Gen VAFC: This is what I installed
Actual pics of my car:








2nd Gen VAFC2:
General Pic:




Neo:
Newest as of 2013, again VTec adjuster will not work with the NEO:
General Pic:

 

Awesome and want to see the results, I'm excited. Thank you for posting this because if no tuning option comes soon looks like this is the route I'm going.

 

Good stuff. Let us know how it goes.

 

VERY nice. My friend is using one he got free in his GD and it's worked GREAT for him

 

quite a hand info organized step by step to get it well .. fewer chances that one would not get the procedure to go with as i am moving to make it count .. thanx for sharing !


Tevida Side Effects

 

 

Nice!
Also want to see updates.

 

Nice!.

I have the AEM FIC on my Fit, but haven't had a chance to really mess around with the tune yet. I pretty much got it setup, did some data logging, and set my clamps.

 

so De36, have you got a few solid runs in yet? I wonder how the fit will run with no tuning other then just adjusting AFRs to 12.5 and using 93.

11:1 is definitely accurate, my exhaust burbles and farts with just a straight axleback

 

subscribing!

 

 

No dyno runs yet, I will post when I have them. I still have plugs and other parts needing installation before tuning.

 

cool. I would be in your debt if you did a couple dynos as is, then a couple after some tuning.

I really do belive honda tuned this car in such a way that a lot of power cna be unlocked. I would not be surprised if we see an additional 10-15 ponies along with a bit of torque.

Given how rich it runs factory, just cleaning up the fueling should really add a decent gas mileage gain!

 

10-15hp is a lot, remember hp gains are better described as percentages, %, because gains depend on what is currently done, or not done to the engine.

I usually see these controllers produce 10-15% +hp. The Civic's usually see higher gains, I've seen up to a 20hp gain on a fully bolted set up. My Spec V After tuned was a ~14hp gain, but I had a lot done to that engine internally, cams, removed the balance shaft, modified intake manifold... on 93 octane.

The dyno results really depend on how conservative the Honda tune is, and how well my set up takes to higher octane. I'm hoping to run 93, but I don't think the engine will take to it. The OEM set up is really designed (very well) to run the cheap gas, a Bisimoto cam might change that to 93. But I don't think my current set up is that extreme, having to guess I would say a 5~8hp gain on my set up on mid-grade.

I found a GD 1.5L with a CVT transmission that gained 6hp, but they didn't mention the mods they have, if any...

 

my car gained some noticeable power when I combined intake, colder plugs, and 93 octane.

This engine loves advanced timing!

 

so now that you have had this on your car for awhile, has it been helpful in getting some more power out of it, or was it very minor?

 

I'd say minor but smoother. But I haven't had the time (or $, lol) to get it dyno'd that's the real way to know the true gains. I have to search for a "dyno day" so I can get a better rate. I still plan on getting it on a dyno.

 

so you have had this for a couple months. Any new thoughts? Any noticable MPG gain? better uphill driving?

Im thinking about going this route, since I am ASSuming Hondata is still going to take their sweet time, even though they got some attention with their recent poll

 

Im confused, why would honda ever drop a/f ratio down to 11:1 aside from warm up?

that is just way to rich for a stock engine.

 

says who?

Honda has always ran their motors rich. Dig online a bit and find out.

Its for reliability purposes. Remember the old civic/crx HF and HX trim models? those used transmission gearing and intake design to get the gasmileage. A few older ones used 8 valves instead of 16 for torque. They still ran rich as crap from a tuners perspective.

lets say the MAF sensor starts getting dirty, or the MAP sensor is stuck. That extra fuel that honda programs to spray will keep the motor running halfway decent while you nurse it to a shop. If its a sensor reading false and making the ecu lean out the fuel mix, the richness will be removed, but it will still get enough fuel to survive and get to a shop or whatever.