Then you want a turbo.

Problem is: what are you going to tune your 2013 with?

 

I was thinking of rebuilding my bottom end with some 12.5:1 pistons, but I am hesitant when I think I could just save that money and put it towards a K swap. I could put it towards boost, but I'm more a fan of mekatuned. Though part of me says, just do it and you can always still go K later.

 

I was looking it to swaps for my 02' Civic EX. This is what I found:

A K24 (200 hp 170 lb·ft) swaps cost over $12k.

A H22A1 is 187 hp 153, bit less. Cheaper install ($3k) and cheaper to modify. Throw a Turbo kit on it for $4k and you'll still have $5k in pocket.

The main issues is a custom flywheel and exhaust piping...

 

Swap to a four barrel. Problem solved!

 

I do have an Odyssey Absolute with a K24. When I decide to get rid of it, I will pluck the engine from it and source a tranny, if I do indeed decide to keep the Fit. It really depends on how the new CTR shows up in production form and if it even makes it to Japan, even though it is to be boosted I can look past not being the typical Honda R NA application if it really does deliver.

 

you wont be able to do the H22 swap easily due to no aftermarket mounts offered for that swap and the harness and ecu work will increase the price as well.

For the 7th gen civics, the H22 swap will rival the K swap in price.

K swap dat hoe! parts car RSX, just swap hte entire harness and subframe. It bolts right in. The RSX is just a 7th gen civic with different body style, just like older integra to older civic

 

Probably going to do the Boomslang/AEM combo since I have no desire to chop my harness up, even if I find a professional to do it.

The extra price is offset by my desire to keep my car able to be returned to stock at a weekends notice.


Water to Air intercooler in place of the battery, which will be set aside, and I will once again pull out my small car audio battery, it fits perfectly into that lil cubby on the rightside of the rear cargo area. The only permanent modification to my car will be the hoels for a set of terminals to be mounted under the car behind the rear bumper, to jumpstart if need be. Also as a failsafe to having the battery die, and for some reason not being able to use the key (too much ice, lock fails, etc..). Gotta make a bracket to safeguard against those terminals shorting out if in a collision as well.

 

Oh no! Our discussion has triggered a flashback!

WARNING: What follows contains no relevant info. Read at the risk of boredom!

There was this insane NA tuning fad in the early '80's. Hung out with people who actually had cars (i couldn't afford one) and many were bragging that they had 10:1 CR, cam 6 or 9 (or whatever that is), and twin down or side carb's. We idiots kept going "ooooh" and "aaaah" as if we knew what they were talking about.

Thing is, fuel back then really suuuuucked! For that to work, engine would need damn rich A/F mix, and timing would have to be ridiculously retarded! And it still wouldn't produce power!

By the late '80's, we knew that the least expensive way to produce big power on small engines was turbo. But the only turbos available then were those used in Caterpillars! They had turbos as big as the ones on the professor's (aka DSM) pictures! There was no way we could use them! And fuel still sucked!

We were thinking of getting a small scrapped turbo and rebuild it, but we didn't know how. And there no one who could get the plumbing right. It just wasn't possible back then.

 

Lag time: 3 ...... ....... ........ hours!

 

Not with an engine that size on alcohol

My 2.0L spools a 67mm T4 frame turbo to 25psi before 5k in higher gears on E85.

A full-boogie 7.0L chugging methanol will have no problem lighting off a 101mm T6 turbo.

 

shooting for 7s I see lol

 

Well aiming for consistent low ~150s in the 1/8th, so if it was equipped to run out the back door then yes that would be potentially in the 7s.

Remember, there are two different 2.0L DSMs in the high 7s as of last year. The most recent, Kevin Jewer's RWD car, did it on a mere 72mm turbo.

A modern 100/101mm is good for nearly 1600whp, depending on fuel and displacement.. in a 3000-3300lb sled, that'll move out pretty well if you can get it to the ground.

 

... HOOOLLEEE ......!!! I had no idea mankind had leaped forward!

I would assume that's the 101mm in the picture. I honestly thought that was a joke!

 

More like shooting for the moon, if you ask me!
It's still sinking in!

 

Yeah, just do it! And enjoy yourself in the process. If you find that you really don't like it, just remove the boost and sell it! To me, please! Oh, but JDM's are RHD! Dang!

I, also prefer mekatune. But for a different reason: I haven't seen a local tuning shop that did a proper turbo build for a L15A7 5AT Fit. For the manual Fits, yes, but not the AT's.

 

No jokes! On a real conservative tune before she went into hibernation, said 2.0L put down 597whp @ only 25psi, pig rich and only 8500rpm (head/cam/spring combo intended to redline around 10,500 rpm)

This turbo doesn't really wake up until ~40-45psi but I won't be turning up the wick just yet. Need to shake her down at low boost in the spring to see how the chassis/suspension and driver deal with it.

Then it's time to bring in the boost, pull some fuel out, see how much timing we can get away with and use the last 2000rpm of the power band.

Did I mention that 600whp was made on a Mustang Dyno with an OEM Piston/Rod combo? That gives me a CR of about ~8.0:1 after having the head milled for an MLS gasket last fall.

Eventually, this car will be getting a different rotating assembly and 80-82mm turbo before going to Bonneville in a couple years.

Edit - Here is the Factory turbo that came on this engine next to the turbo currently on there:

 

4G63's toughness on stock internals is a blessing and a curse. Easy for joe shmoe to slap a T3 on and think he's The Buster, leading to too many hacked Eclipses/car fires/bad rep. Mitsu had the right idea with that motor though I think, simple but effective. I think the 4G9x series are cool little motors too but that's because I was a Mirage guy. I know they can take some boost and live with it pretty comfortably and that was in the tuning "stone age" circa 2001

That 2.2L Mazda motor (MX6, don't know the designation) was pretty tough too and that's from the same era, simple, effective. Friend was pushing almost 400 HP on stock single cam with a cobbed together BS setup relying on a FPR and it lived quite a while.

 

As long as you give them enough fuel, a good fuel at that and mind your timing.. they will take a beating.

This motor was re-freshed in 2008, it spent the better part of 3 years with a 59mm Borg at nearly 40psi. It survived an accidental 38psi pull on the new turbo, but we broke traction and didn't get any numbers lol

Torque was basically vertical till the tires called it quits and we got out of it.

Here's a fun thought, ~600whp @ 25psi comes to 24whp/psi, and it's not linear but 38psi should put us comfortably in the neighborhood of 850-900whp at the same RPM.

I don't expect this bottom end to survive quite that much however. Current record backed up by track visit is 749awhp.

Water Injection and/or Alcohol primary fueling will let you go so much farther on stock hardware in almost anything just from how much more stable it is and how much cooler it keeps the chamber and exhaust components when you do ignite it.

 

i have a question.i want to install pistons and rods for my turbo build.i want to buy this HKS set
HKS Forged Piston Kit and Connection Rod Set Honda CR-Z ZF1 - RHDJapan
SPECIFICATIONS:
Bore x Stroke (mm):
- HKS: 73x89.4
- OEM: 73x89.4

Compression Ratio (e):
- HKS (with HKS Head G/K t=0.8mm): 8.7
- HKS (with HKS Head G/K t=1.2mm): 8.4
- OEM (with OEM Head G/K t=0.8mm): 10.4
so you see it is decreasing the compression ratio. my question is will it need a tune?
i have ordered AEM FIC-6 already but i know it can only retard timing,not advance.
i also look into CP pistons and could not find any connecting rods.can some quide me.as my engine is LEA-ZF1.so any CRZ engine parts will work.
Or should i but CP pistons for l15A1 and Skunk2 connecting rods?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKUNK2-Connecting-Rods-Alpha-90-01-Acura-Integra-GS-LS-RS-B18A1-B18B1-B20B-B20Z-/281064601473?hash=item4170c17781&vxp=mtr (will these rods fit?)
will i need cylender head bolts change too for near 250HP ?

From another post from this forum i see that GE8 has already forged connecting rods ? so only pistons needed?
Here i found about Honda L engine.it do has forged rods
http://asia.vtec.net/Engines/LSERIESG2/index.html

 

If you want ~250whp, i suggest an engine swap as the first step. There are a few people that have achieved ~250whp but their engines didn't last very long (about 2 years maybe).

They do say that the L15a7 already has forged rods; no need to change, just add boost. But you will need a different tuning option, one that will allow you to add timing. I hear Ktuner is working on supporting FI.