Hello,
Yes, I have the exact same issue as yours, I guess both of our hood came from the exact same mold

I never have problem with the plastic radiator cover though because it don't touch the hood at all (in my case)...

by the way, I test drive the car on freeway today,
and I pay attention to my Defi Water Temp gauge...
This is what I notice:
the water temp gauge stay at around 72 to 74 Celsius most of the time which is just 1 or 2 degree better than before,
but the main difference is how fast the engine cool down...
so when I accelerate hard, the Defi show my temp shoot up fast to either 80 Celsius or in some case above that...
but once I coast back, the temp goes down back to 72 to 74 Celsius much faster than before...
so this Vented Carbon Fiber Hood do NOT prevent the engine temp from spiking up when the boost kick in,
but it do help cool it down much faster...

once Park, I hold the hood area in front of the ventilation and the hood feel cold, but the area behind the ventilation is warm, plus the ventilation itself emit a warm flow of heat so it does work even when park with engine off...

The fender also feel cooler to touch...

Overall, it is NOT perfect but I don't expect perfection for that price
I am happy with the hood, now just need to save money for painting it white

Here is another picture that I took today after the test drive on Freeway:

 

Nice hood. The black and white contrast is cool. How much weight are you saving over the stock? Are the hood latch metal? It has been ages since I installed a carbon fiber hood. Are hood pin no longer necessary?

 

Hi Steven,
I actually prefer the hood to be the same color as the car, so I plan to paint it white when I have money and just leave a rectangular section behind the vent holes bare carbon fiber so at least it still show as carbon fiber hood

I don't weight both hoods but if there are weight saving, I think it is negligible... probably 1 or 2 pounds top...
I just found out why this Carbon Fiber hood is not that light,
because when I drill the lower parts of the hood for the hood mast/holder,
turn out it is made of Fiber Glass, so the only carbon fiber part is to the top surface...
J's Racing also offer their hood in either full CF or half CF half FRP (Fiber Glass)... I guess this is why this hood cost not so much

the hood latch is metal embedded into the thick fiber glass lower bottom...
it looks sturdy enough... and I never heard other here at FitFreak that have problem with their JDP hood after several years of use...

 

I went to a very good body shop today that specialized in custom painting high end car,
I talked to the owner of the store which is super nice,
but he said, his shop no longer accept custom job since 6 months ago, when his expert painter left to retire... he said custom paint is a dying business and he now concentrate only on insurance job.
He also took the time to explain to me that it is best to wait for another 8 months for the resin on the carbon fiber to fully cured before I paint it, otherwise, if I paint it now,
the paint might get distort in 6 months from now because the resin might "adjust"...
so it's look like I will be stuck with this black and white look for another 8 months...

the good news is I now have a reason to take it easy on myself for not painting the CF hood now
and hopefully I can use the free up budget for another modification that I had planned for so long...

 

Wrap the Roof in Carbon Fiber Vinyl and be done! Rock the Hawk! lol

 

My hood has already started clouding in less than a week. :/

 

Project Air Flow continue today with the arrival of the Aluminum and Stainless Steel Louvers

I am going to modified my CR-Z lower engine cover to have this Louvers
integrated into it (aka cut, make a hole and epoxy plus some bolt/nut)

I will post DIY by this weekend

 

i usually lurk, but i just wanted to say i love seeing your threads. you put in a lot of attention to the small details which make a huge difference. awesome job

 

Hi TofuShop
Thank You for your kind words, I really appreciate it,...

my biggest problem now is budget... I really wish someday
I can make more money so I can be even more creative and flexible with what I want to (or can) do to my car... and do it sooner...

Thanks again

 

Project Air Flow moving a bit today

I make holes for all louvers to be flush with the CR-Z lower engine cover using Dremel:




















Too tired today,
will bolt the louvers with bolt/nut tomorrow then use Epoxy to SEAL and SECURE them...
well, hopefully I have a little free time tomorrow to do this...
not in a hurry to install this back,
I still want my Setrab oil cooler and SPAL radiator fan to be fully operational before putting this cover back...

 

I can't rest until at least I attached the louvers with bolt and nut...
so I drill all the holes, secure almost every holes available with bolt and nut, use permanent loctite on the bolts and nuts, then I can take a rest
Tomorrow, if I have free time, I am going to use Epoxy to fill all the holes that is against the flow and to secure the louvers even better...

 

I finally finish with adding Louvers to the Honda CR-Z lower engine cover and secure it using bolt/nut plus further reinforcement and seals with epoxy. This should further help with both aerodynamic (down force) and effective cooling since now the air is forced to go through radiator and being suck by the louvers.

 

and, I also WRAP the JDP Vented Carbon Fiber Hood in 3M 1080 Carbon Fiber White Wrap today

Before:




AFTER:

 

Add "FINAL EDITION" emblem

 

Today I finished my Setrab Oil Cooler Project,
so it's time to install the CR-Z lower underengine panel cover back,
I do notice than when idling/driving slow, the engine temperature is higher now...
but it cooled down at freeway speed...
so my plan is during fall/winter, I will use this CR-Z lower under panel so I get better aerodynamic, but during hot summer, it is still better to not have any under engine cover at all for ultimate engine cooling performance...



Oh, I also install JDP engineering Carbon Fiber Radiator Plate cover,
notice the larger outlet for the intake:

 

very slick with the white cf vinyl wrap

 

Thanks TofuShop,
now, I hope this vinyl will last a long time, because I don't feel like painting the hood anymore

 

Update,
I remove the CR-Z lower engine cover because despite the louver vent, the temperature is still not as cool as if I don't use any cover at all, so I just want the most efficient cooling air flow as possible, little less aerodynamics is ok

 

BMW Alpina, are you measuring your temps through your AEM? Can you post a datalog?

I don't believe this supercharger has a heat exchanger. Without the heat exchanger, you're always going to have the engine ingesting hot air.

I would suggest to ditch the AEM piggy back in favor of a K Tuner to have full control over the factory ECU and its failsafes. The other thing I would do, is have it properly tuned with a high quality methanol/water injection system. That will help keep your IAT's low and allow you to run less fuel/more timing... safely.

 

Good Morning All4bspinin,
Thanks for your advice,
I am currently measuring my Water Temperature using my Defi Advance BF Water Temperature Gauge and monitoring my intake temperature using my ScanGaugeII.

Yes, Sprintex do not have intercooler / heat exchanger.
On the original setup, the 5th injector that inject the additional fuel needed for the Sprintex at the intake elbow before the supercharger act as a poorman intercooler, but since I don't use Sprintex piggyback and use AEM F/IC-6, I don't use the 5th injector anymore.

I prefer the AEM F/IC-6 (with Boomslang wiring harness that I use now) because at this moment K-Tuner software do not have all the features suitable for Forced Induction.
Yes, the tuner can manipulate the K-Tuner to work but it's not really a fully developed product and I don't want to buy a non fully developed product, but as soon as K-Tuner have full featured, I plan to buy it.

I tune my car at Church tuning, but later found out, there is some mistake in the tuning (at that time my AEM MAP hose rattling due to the pulsation and the tuner must mistaken the sound as detonation/knocking) with too much timing retard causing the car to not able to accelerate and harder to start.
I since had modified the ignition tuning a bit and so far my water temp and spark plug do not indicate something is wrong.

I do plan to install higher flowing 200Cell HJS Catalytic Converter soon,
so I will probably take it to another tuner for a retune.

I also have longer term plan to install Aquamist Water/Meth Injection system coupled with the smaller pulley from Sprintex to increase the boost, and of course retune again.

But you are right that this car need Water/Meth injection because at this moment (winter) my car do accelerate faster compare to hot day (summer).

I also had install Setrab Oil Cooler with fan plus extra fan for the radiator,
so hopefully it will help, oh and a Denso IK24 plug which is 2 step colder than the stock plug.

I also will install Defi EGT gauge, oil pressure, oil temp and fuel temp, so hopefully I can see if there is something wrong (knock on wood )