English DIY maplight in base GE
#82
Alright, waiting for this : )
#83
Alright, so I just finished the install and after 3 attempts to get this posted, I just went with uploading to photobucket, and linking everything to the post. Very, very annoying, but whatever. Moving on, I got bored earlier than I thought, and just decided to just knock it out. Super simple install, although do expect that you will be spending upwards of two hours if you prefer to go slower and take your time. The install however, could be done in as little as 20 minutes, honestly.
So to start, I ordered everything from the list presented on page one. And it was just about everything I needed. If I would have decided to solder everything together, it would have been absolutely everything I needed except for the additional wire, and some electrical tape. Either way works, and with the amount of space available, and the unlikelihood of anything moving around, I decided a couple vampire clips (inline taps) a couple female plugs, and a spot of silicone would be more than adequate.
Beyond that, the only tools you absolutely need is a hobby knife with a couple brand new blades(it will start to wear one edge down throughout the cutting portion. Swap that blade when you get to that point. You'll know.), a philips screwdriver, a tool to pry out the lens from the dome light(a tiny flat head works, but will mark up the plastic. Find something plastic if you don't want that to happen.), one 2 foot section of 20/22 gauge wire(I used 16, as that's what I had available on hand, lol) and some wire strippers/crimpers.
So, here we go:
Below, I have the wrappers that all of the parts came in. 'nuff said.
Picture of Individual Packaging
So here I'm just aiming the camera at the indentation. Last time it will look like that.
Picture of Indent
Here, I just cut a hole in the very center, to check and make sure the mounting was underneath(not necessary obviously, but cutting into ones car can make a man nervous. ALL of the GE's have this mount.).
Initial Hole
From the smaller hole, I just gradually widened it out until I reached the required size. The mount has about a half inch lip, and is held up by the grounding/mount screws, so if it doesn't snuggly fit, don't worry. However, the install is best with it being snug. Just cut slowly, gradually getting larger, and make sure the hole is centered in the indentation, and you will be fine.
After I got the hole to the correct size, I took a lighter to the edges, to melt the fabric I cut through, so it wouldn't fray out or anything. If you do this as well, be careful.
Finished Hole
For this part, I didn't take pictures popping off the dome lens, or removing the two screws underneath. Self explanatory. Here you can see I've already done that, and you can see the two wires connecting to the dome. A pinkish red wire, and a blue wire. You only need the pink/red one if you just want to be able to turn the map lights on or off. The blue wire is for the auto-on/dim. I decided I wanted the on/dim feature, so I will use both.
Center Dome w/ Lens off and mount unscrewed and displayed
Here I just guided the wires I was going to use for redirecting power. It's a bit of a fight, as there is something in there that is inconveniently in the way. I just aimed the tip of my wire coat hanger down, and I could hear it scrape against the foam for a second, and then it finally went through to the other side. Most of your time will be spent doing this part. It's annoying, and you have to be careful or you could pop straight through the foam, and into the cabin, so again, be careful. Accomplish that, and you are, time wise, almost done.
Two Wires guided through center dome to map light hole
Here is a picture of what I mean by vampire clip/inline slice/tap. Common and cheap.
Just one of many types of tap available
Here, I've used two of them to connect my newly ran wires to the dom light's wires. I connected blue to black, and pink/red to red. Simple enough.
Lines Tapped
Here is a view into the bottom side of the map light base. As you can see in the big hole near my thumb, there are three pins down in the socket. You only need the right side one for self activation. The center pin is useless. I actually cut it out to make more room for the other two pins. The left pin is for the auto-on/dimmer power. You only need it if that's what you want. And of course, one of the mounting screws is also the ground connection, in case you don't know, or wonder where that is. Don't worry about it, you'll see the ground ring when the base is in your hands.
Map Light base with 3 pins in bottom socket
Here you can see that I cut off the center pin. Not needed/necessary.
Only pins needed remain
Here are the connectors that I used for connecting to the left and right map light base pins. Due to their size, and the desire for more space, I cut out the center pin so they would fit without worrying about if they might touch the center pin, or even ground out due to vibrating together.
Female Quick Connects
Here I have connected the two wires into the base. Black(blue) is connected to the left pin. Red(pink/red) is connected to the right pin. Please note. Do not connect anything like what I used UNTIL you are satisfied with how everything is positioned, etc. The pins inside it are sturdy, but they are thin. If you fully seat a connector like this on them, and try to pull it off, it will more than likely pull the entire metal trace off the base(Ask me how I know.....). Again, the metal is not very thick, and it isn't held on by much of anything. So be careful. After I was satisfied, I fully seated them, and additionally threw some silicone into the empty space, to make sure everything stays put. Not necessary, but I figured why not.
Everything connected
And here you can see everything mounted up. Putting everything up, screwing it in, popping in the lights, and finally lenses, is completely self explanatory.
Map Light finally Mounted!
All three lights on! Works like desired. Dimming/auto-on, and buttons fully functional.
All 3 bulbs lit and functioning
And here is the cabin, fully lit.
Fully Lit Cabin
I love it.
So to start, I ordered everything from the list presented on page one. And it was just about everything I needed. If I would have decided to solder everything together, it would have been absolutely everything I needed except for the additional wire, and some electrical tape. Either way works, and with the amount of space available, and the unlikelihood of anything moving around, I decided a couple vampire clips (inline taps) a couple female plugs, and a spot of silicone would be more than adequate.
Beyond that, the only tools you absolutely need is a hobby knife with a couple brand new blades(it will start to wear one edge down throughout the cutting portion. Swap that blade when you get to that point. You'll know.), a philips screwdriver, a tool to pry out the lens from the dome light(a tiny flat head works, but will mark up the plastic. Find something plastic if you don't want that to happen.), one 2 foot section of 20/22 gauge wire(I used 16, as that's what I had available on hand, lol) and some wire strippers/crimpers.
So, here we go:
Below, I have the wrappers that all of the parts came in. 'nuff said.
Picture of Individual Packaging
So here I'm just aiming the camera at the indentation. Last time it will look like that.
Picture of Indent
Here, I just cut a hole in the very center, to check and make sure the mounting was underneath(not necessary obviously, but cutting into ones car can make a man nervous. ALL of the GE's have this mount.).
Initial Hole
From the smaller hole, I just gradually widened it out until I reached the required size. The mount has about a half inch lip, and is held up by the grounding/mount screws, so if it doesn't snuggly fit, don't worry. However, the install is best with it being snug. Just cut slowly, gradually getting larger, and make sure the hole is centered in the indentation, and you will be fine.
After I got the hole to the correct size, I took a lighter to the edges, to melt the fabric I cut through, so it wouldn't fray out or anything. If you do this as well, be careful.
Finished Hole
For this part, I didn't take pictures popping off the dome lens, or removing the two screws underneath. Self explanatory. Here you can see I've already done that, and you can see the two wires connecting to the dome. A pinkish red wire, and a blue wire. You only need the pink/red one if you just want to be able to turn the map lights on or off. The blue wire is for the auto-on/dim. I decided I wanted the on/dim feature, so I will use both.
Center Dome w/ Lens off and mount unscrewed and displayed
Here I just guided the wires I was going to use for redirecting power. It's a bit of a fight, as there is something in there that is inconveniently in the way. I just aimed the tip of my wire coat hanger down, and I could hear it scrape against the foam for a second, and then it finally went through to the other side. Most of your time will be spent doing this part. It's annoying, and you have to be careful or you could pop straight through the foam, and into the cabin, so again, be careful. Accomplish that, and you are, time wise, almost done.
Two Wires guided through center dome to map light hole
Here is a picture of what I mean by vampire clip/inline slice/tap. Common and cheap.
Just one of many types of tap available
Here, I've used two of them to connect my newly ran wires to the dom light's wires. I connected blue to black, and pink/red to red. Simple enough.
Lines Tapped
Here is a view into the bottom side of the map light base. As you can see in the big hole near my thumb, there are three pins down in the socket. You only need the right side one for self activation. The center pin is useless. I actually cut it out to make more room for the other two pins. The left pin is for the auto-on/dimmer power. You only need it if that's what you want. And of course, one of the mounting screws is also the ground connection, in case you don't know, or wonder where that is. Don't worry about it, you'll see the ground ring when the base is in your hands.
Map Light base with 3 pins in bottom socket
Here you can see that I cut off the center pin. Not needed/necessary.
Only pins needed remain
Here are the connectors that I used for connecting to the left and right map light base pins. Due to their size, and the desire for more space, I cut out the center pin so they would fit without worrying about if they might touch the center pin, or even ground out due to vibrating together.
Female Quick Connects
Here I have connected the two wires into the base. Black(blue) is connected to the left pin. Red(pink/red) is connected to the right pin. Please note. Do not connect anything like what I used UNTIL you are satisfied with how everything is positioned, etc. The pins inside it are sturdy, but they are thin. If you fully seat a connector like this on them, and try to pull it off, it will more than likely pull the entire metal trace off the base(Ask me how I know.....). Again, the metal is not very thick, and it isn't held on by much of anything. So be careful. After I was satisfied, I fully seated them, and additionally threw some silicone into the empty space, to make sure everything stays put. Not necessary, but I figured why not.
Everything connected
And here you can see everything mounted up. Putting everything up, screwing it in, popping in the lights, and finally lenses, is completely self explanatory.
Map Light finally Mounted!
All three lights on! Works like desired. Dimming/auto-on, and buttons fully functional.
All 3 bulbs lit and functioning
And here is the cabin, fully lit.
Fully Lit Cabin
I love it.
#86
Thanks for this!
I just used this thread to install the map light in my new (old) 2012 Fit Base. I bought it used in February and have done some minor mods and was thrilled to find this. Thanks for taking the time to detail the steps and post pictures!!
#87
Could you please specify which parts did you use? I want to do this this month hopefully.
#88
parts
Sorry I missed your question - probably too late but I used the parts listed in the beginning of this thread:
1) 1 of 34404-SNA-A01ZD
Honda BASE *NH220L*
2) 2 of 34253-671-003
Honda BULB (12V 8W) (DAIICHI)
3) 1 of 34405-SDA-305
Honda LENS, R. (COO)
4) 1 of 34406-SDA-305
Honda LENS, L. (COO)
5) 2 of 90148-S6A-013
Honda BOLT, GROUND (5X14)
1) 1 of 34404-SNA-A01ZD
Honda BASE *NH220L*
2) 2 of 34253-671-003
Honda BULB (12V 8W) (DAIICHI)
3) 1 of 34405-SDA-305
Honda LENS, R. (COO)
4) 1 of 34406-SDA-305
Honda LENS, L. (COO)
5) 2 of 90148-S6A-013
Honda BOLT, GROUND (5X14)
#89
Could the OP (or anybody else) please repost the photos for this DIY? Yes, I know this thread is super old but I’m thinking about undertaking this project and any photos would be greatly appreciated (especially in regard to the wiring).
Thanks.
Thanks.
#90
Check out the post from 1/24/2016. Those photos are working for me. Hardest thing for me was running the wire from the center light to the cutout you'll make. I used a trombone slide cleaning rod, but it felt like I had to push through some glue holding the headliner in place. Also be careful using the new screws to mount the new light housing. One of mine went in offset and I ended up stripping threads. It went it tight but I couldn't totally snug it up. Works fine and only I know.... Have fun, it's not a difficult mod and looks great after.
#91
Check out the post from 1/24/2016. Those photos are working for me. Hardest thing for me was running the wire from the center light to the cutout you'll make. I used a trombone slide cleaning rod, but it felt like I had to push through some glue holding the headliner in place. Also be careful using the new screws to mount the new light housing. One of mine went in offset and I ended up stripping threads. It went it tight but I couldn't totally snug it up. Works fine and only I know.... Have fun, it's not a difficult mod and looks great after.
Last edited by Tk3; 03-02-2020 at 01:54 AM.
#92
Pictures are no longer available
Alright, so I just finished the install and after 3 attempts to get this posted, I just went with uploading to photobucket, and linking everything to the post. Very, very annoying, but whatever. Moving on, I got bored earlier than I thought, and just decided to just knock it out. Super simple install, although do expect that you will be spending upwards of two hours if you prefer to go slower and take your time. The install however, could be done in as little as 20 minutes, honestly.
So to start, I ordered everything from the list presented on page one. And it was just about everything I needed. If I would have decided to solder everything together, it would have been absolutely everything I needed except for the additional wire, and some electrical tape. Either way works, and with the amount of space available, and the unlikelihood of anything moving around, I decided a couple vampire clips (inline taps) a couple female plugs, and a spot of silicone would be more than adequate.
Beyond that, the only tools you absolutely need is a hobby knife with a couple brand new blades(it will start to wear one edge down throughout the cutting portion. Swap that blade when you get to that point. You'll know.), a philips screwdriver, a tool to pry out the lens from the dome light(a tiny flat head works, but will mark up the plastic. Find something plastic if you don't want that to happen.), one 2 foot section of 20/22 gauge wire(I used 16, as that's what I had available on hand, lol) and some wire strippers/crimpers.
So, here we go:
Below, I have the wrappers that all of the parts came in. 'nuff said.
Picture of Individual Packaging
So here I'm just aiming the camera at the indentation. Last time it will look like that.
Picture of Indent
Here, I just cut a hole in the very center, to check and make sure the mounting was underneath(not necessary obviously, but cutting into ones car can make a man nervous. ALL of the GE's have this mount.).
Initial Hole
From the smaller hole, I just gradually widened it out until I reached the required size. The mount has about a half inch lip, and is held up by the grounding/mount screws, so if it doesn't snuggly fit, don't worry. However, the install is best with it being snug. Just cut slowly, gradually getting larger, and make sure the hole is centered in the indentation, and you will be fine.
After I got the hole to the correct size, I took a lighter to the edges, to melt the fabric I cut through, so it wouldn't fray out or anything. If you do this as well, be careful.
Finished Hole
For this part, I didn't take pictures popping off the dome lens, or removing the two screws underneath. Self explanatory. Here you can see I've already done that, and you can see the two wires connecting to the dome. A pinkish red wire, and a blue wire. You only need the pink/red one if you just want to be able to turn the map lights on or off. The blue wire is for the auto-on/dim. I decided I wanted the on/dim feature, so I will use both.
Center Dome w/ Lens off and mount unscrewed and displayed
Here I just guided the wires I was going to use for redirecting power. It's a bit of a fight, as there is something in there that is inconveniently in the way. I just aimed the tip of my wire coat hanger down, and I could hear it scrape against the foam for a second, and then it finally went through to the other side. Most of your time will be spent doing this part. It's annoying, and you have to be careful or you could pop straight through the foam, and into the cabin, so again, be careful. Accomplish that, and you are, time wise, almost done.
Two Wires guided through center dome to map light hole
Here is a picture of what I mean by vampire clip/inline slice/tap. Common and cheap.
Just one of many types of tap available
Here, I've used two of them to connect my newly ran wires to the dom light's wires. I connected blue to black, and pink/red to red. Simple enough.
Lines Tapped
Here is a view into the bottom side of the map light base. As you can see in the big hole near my thumb, there are three pins down in the socket. You only need the right side one for self activation. The center pin is useless. I actually cut it out to make more room for the other two pins. The left pin is for the auto-on/dimmer power. You only need it if that's what you want. And of course, one of the mounting screws is also the ground connection, in case you don't know, or wonder where that is. Don't worry about it, you'll see the ground ring when the base is in your hands.
Map Light base with 3 pins in bottom socket
Here you can see that I cut off the center pin. Not needed/necessary.
Only pins needed remain
Here are the connectors that I used for connecting to the left and right map light base pins. Due to their size, and the desire for more space, I cut out the center pin so they would fit without worrying about if they might touch the center pin, or even ground out due to vibrating together.
Female Quick Connects
Here I have connected the two wires into the base. Black(blue) is connected to the left pin. Red(pink/red) is connected to the right pin. Please note. Do not connect anything like what I used UNTIL you are satisfied with how everything is positioned, etc. The pins inside it are sturdy, but they are thin. If you fully seat a connector like this on them, and try to pull it off, it will more than likely pull the entire metal trace off the base(Ask me how I know.....). Again, the metal is not very thick, and it isn't held on by much of anything. So be careful. After I was satisfied, I fully seated them, and additionally threw some silicone into the empty space, to make sure everything stays put. Not necessary, but I figured why not.
Everything connected
And here you can see everything mounted up. Putting everything up, screwing it in, popping in the lights, and finally lenses, is completely self explanatory.
Map Light finally Mounted!
All three lights on! Works like desired. Dimming/auto-on, and buttons fully functional.
All 3 bulbs lit and functioning
And here is the cabin, fully lit.
Fully Lit Cabin
I love it.
So to start, I ordered everything from the list presented on page one. And it was just about everything I needed. If I would have decided to solder everything together, it would have been absolutely everything I needed except for the additional wire, and some electrical tape. Either way works, and with the amount of space available, and the unlikelihood of anything moving around, I decided a couple vampire clips (inline taps) a couple female plugs, and a spot of silicone would be more than adequate.
Beyond that, the only tools you absolutely need is a hobby knife with a couple brand new blades(it will start to wear one edge down throughout the cutting portion. Swap that blade when you get to that point. You'll know.), a philips screwdriver, a tool to pry out the lens from the dome light(a tiny flat head works, but will mark up the plastic. Find something plastic if you don't want that to happen.), one 2 foot section of 20/22 gauge wire(I used 16, as that's what I had available on hand, lol) and some wire strippers/crimpers.
So, here we go:
Below, I have the wrappers that all of the parts came in. 'nuff said.
Picture of Individual Packaging
So here I'm just aiming the camera at the indentation. Last time it will look like that.
Picture of Indent
Here, I just cut a hole in the very center, to check and make sure the mounting was underneath(not necessary obviously, but cutting into ones car can make a man nervous. ALL of the GE's have this mount.).
Initial Hole
From the smaller hole, I just gradually widened it out until I reached the required size. The mount has about a half inch lip, and is held up by the grounding/mount screws, so if it doesn't snuggly fit, don't worry. However, the install is best with it being snug. Just cut slowly, gradually getting larger, and make sure the hole is centered in the indentation, and you will be fine.
After I got the hole to the correct size, I took a lighter to the edges, to melt the fabric I cut through, so it wouldn't fray out or anything. If you do this as well, be careful.
Finished Hole
For this part, I didn't take pictures popping off the dome lens, or removing the two screws underneath. Self explanatory. Here you can see I've already done that, and you can see the two wires connecting to the dome. A pinkish red wire, and a blue wire. You only need the pink/red one if you just want to be able to turn the map lights on or off. The blue wire is for the auto-on/dim. I decided I wanted the on/dim feature, so I will use both.
Center Dome w/ Lens off and mount unscrewed and displayed
Here I just guided the wires I was going to use for redirecting power. It's a bit of a fight, as there is something in there that is inconveniently in the way. I just aimed the tip of my wire coat hanger down, and I could hear it scrape against the foam for a second, and then it finally went through to the other side. Most of your time will be spent doing this part. It's annoying, and you have to be careful or you could pop straight through the foam, and into the cabin, so again, be careful. Accomplish that, and you are, time wise, almost done.
Two Wires guided through center dome to map light hole
Here is a picture of what I mean by vampire clip/inline slice/tap. Common and cheap.
Just one of many types of tap available
Here, I've used two of them to connect my newly ran wires to the dom light's wires. I connected blue to black, and pink/red to red. Simple enough.
Lines Tapped
Here is a view into the bottom side of the map light base. As you can see in the big hole near my thumb, there are three pins down in the socket. You only need the right side one for self activation. The center pin is useless. I actually cut it out to make more room for the other two pins. The left pin is for the auto-on/dimmer power. You only need it if that's what you want. And of course, one of the mounting screws is also the ground connection, in case you don't know, or wonder where that is. Don't worry about it, you'll see the ground ring when the base is in your hands.
Map Light base with 3 pins in bottom socket
Here you can see that I cut off the center pin. Not needed/necessary.
Only pins needed remain
Here are the connectors that I used for connecting to the left and right map light base pins. Due to their size, and the desire for more space, I cut out the center pin so they would fit without worrying about if they might touch the center pin, or even ground out due to vibrating together.
Female Quick Connects
Here I have connected the two wires into the base. Black(blue) is connected to the left pin. Red(pink/red) is connected to the right pin. Please note. Do not connect anything like what I used UNTIL you are satisfied with how everything is positioned, etc. The pins inside it are sturdy, but they are thin. If you fully seat a connector like this on them, and try to pull it off, it will more than likely pull the entire metal trace off the base(Ask me how I know.....). Again, the metal is not very thick, and it isn't held on by much of anything. So be careful. After I was satisfied, I fully seated them, and additionally threw some silicone into the empty space, to make sure everything stays put. Not necessary, but I figured why not.
Everything connected
And here you can see everything mounted up. Putting everything up, screwing it in, popping in the lights, and finally lenses, is completely self explanatory.
Map Light finally Mounted!
All three lights on! Works like desired. Dimming/auto-on, and buttons fully functional.
All 3 bulbs lit and functioning
And here is the cabin, fully lit.
Fully Lit Cabin
I love it.
#94
Honda doesn't connect the dome light to the map light in the Sport, it powers the map light with a power cord that isn't there in the base. Getting power to the map light you're adding is a mod. You use any two conductor wire (like speaker wire) and it uses spade connectors to attach to the map light and the other end uses wire taps to tap directly into the existing dome light wires (those have the power you're stealing to send to the map light).
#95
I am confused, as I have only been able to find one part for the internal lighting wiring harness (#2), which seems to indicate that it already has a connector for the map lights included:
https://www.hondafactoryparts.com/oe...or-32155tk6a01
Has anyone seen this connector when opening up their ceiling?
https://www.hondafactoryparts.com/oe...or-32155tk6a01
Has anyone seen this connector when opening up their ceiling?
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