DIY-Complete TSX Homelink install on a GE8 Sport w/ Nav

  #41  
Old 12-20-2013, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Cutriss
So, found one that doesn't match up! >.>

1999-2003 Acura TL / 1998-2002 Honda Accord / 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey
Damn... so anything pre-2004 is seems like. I think the one most of us got is ~06.


On the mounting plate itself you could possibly drill & tap holes if you really want to go thru that, I'd just put it back on ebay, and buy another one.
 
  #42  
Old 12-20-2013, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by FitStir
Damn... so anything pre-2004 is seems like. I think the one most of us got is ~06.


On the mounting plate itself you could possibly drill & tap holes if you really want to go thru that, I'd just put it back on ebay, and buy another one.
They don't move very fast, I'm fairly sure it'd take forever to flip it, that's why I'm going to instead try to just drill separate holes in it and mount it to the existing screw base. I'll have to wire in a grounding eye-wire to put on one of the screw mounts since there isn't any ground plating run in the old assembly. I'm going to try that before I do anything major, because if it turns out that the voltages are mismatched and it doesn't even come on, then hopefully I can try to flip it (and maybe reuse the LEDs that I bought for it!) and get something else.
 
  #43  
Old 01-01-2014, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by FitStir



In order to minimize the "drop" in height of the roof liner I had to snap off the 2 tabs that helped secure the original map light (seen bent out on previous pics). I tried to fit them between the map light & console (similiar location to where they were on the existing map light), but they're too long and push the console further down. Here they are on top of the piece of roof liner that was cut out.
I'm glad I came back to looking at this. I noticed these tabs a couple nights ago while feeling around up in the canopy and was starting to think it wouldn't work. Plus, the roof seems to taper downward in that area. This gives me more confidence that it will work. How pliable were those tabs? They seem fairly thick but they're not steel so I get the impression some pliers will do the trick.
 
  #44  
Old 01-02-2014, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Cutriss
How pliable were those tabs?
Very pliable.. I think I just used my hands.


Be very careful when working in that area to not push up on the roof too much, you could leave dings on the roof if you push too hard.
 
  #45  
Old 01-02-2014, 10:21 AM
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Alright, well, the next step for me is to try to rig up some wiring so I can test the new maplight before I cut out the hole for it. The "new" one is two-wire so I need to make a grounding loop, screw it into the roof, and then connect the wires from the old harness to the current power and "ground" and see if it works right, I expect it will. Then I can try to make a template to cut from.

All so that I can have a garage door opener for a garage we don't even have (yet) and a sunglass holder that my sunglasses don't even fit in, lol.
 
  #46  
Old 04-20-2014, 06:15 PM
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Thank you very much. Your wiring instructions helped me greatly, along with your pictures.


I just installed a 2006 Odyssey's Homelink into my base Fit.


On a side note, the '06 Odyssey's Homelink module doesn't have the Door/Off switch. It also does not auto-off the lights after the door is closed (the dome light still functions normally).


I'm going to test a theory, that the Homelink module is at the core of this, and needs the door/off switch to auto-off the lights after the door is closed. I'll post back when I get the module.




Otherwise, the map lights, dome light, and Homelink all work wonderfully.


Thank you!




EDIT: I used very long M5 screws to help cut out a pattern on the ceiling.
 

Last edited by tankton; 04-20-2014 at 10:55 PM.
  #47  
Old 04-24-2014, 03:02 AM
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Yup, that definitely did the trick. Needed the TSX Homelink module with the DOOR/OFF switch to make it all work. The '06 Odyssey module without the DOOR/OFF switch was not able to auto-off the lights after the door was closed.
 
  #48  
Old 05-02-2014, 11:44 PM
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Why not just do this one. Sure its less wiring etc. But it's a lot less work.

Fit HomeLink Upgrade - 39180FIT: College Hills Honda


I'll be doing this one
 
  #49  
Old 05-03-2014, 04:09 AM
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^^If that was a reply to my posts, it's because I have a base model (no preexisting wiring for the map lights). I figured I may as well go full hog (more importantly, the CHH modified one requires one to occasionally take out the entire thing and replace the battery every once in a while).


Though for the Sport model owners, it does seem like a logical choice (if expensive).
 
  #50  
Old 01-10-2015, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by FitStir
Here's the pics:


You can see the pieces of wood I cut. I decided the 2" height was a little too much, so I recut them at 1 3/4".
[IMG]http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5280/dscn1215f.jpg


I also gave them a slight taper from 1 3/4" to 1 5/8" to form to the angle between the roof and the headliner. It really wasn't necessary, but I wanted it as flush as possible.
[IMG]http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7238/dscn1214d.jpg


In order to minimize the "drop" in height of the roof liner I had to snap off the 2 tabs that helped secure the original map light (seen bent out on previous pics). I tried to fit them between the map light & console (similiar location to where they were on the existing map light), but they're too long and push the console further down. Here they are on top of the piece of roof liner that was cut out.
[IMG]http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5412/dscn1256g.jpg

Here's the finished install.



and a wider shot.



As I mentioned in my previous post the mounting/grounding bolts are slightly short. I still haven't got the longer ones, but I will soon to correct the slight crease toward the front by the maplight, might add a spacer depending on the fit.


As it is now it's extremely secure even though I didn't secure the sunglass section to the roof, and it's still flush. After I get the longer bolts, I will attach some velcro or double stick tape to the back of the sunglass holder part to be more secure to the roof. I don't want anything permanent cause they will have to move the console forward whenever I get the sunroof installed.
I just installed the tsx unit and it works great! It came with the sunglass holder housing too but I am hesitant to cut up the roof liner for it. Anyone have done the sunglasses holder install aswell? Please post photos as I am not quite convinced that the roof liner will hold its shape with such a bulky inclusion.
 
  #51  
Old 02-13-2015, 07:32 PM
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few questions,

1) What does that red wire (SW/MIC ADPT) on the mic do that we're leaving disconnected?
2) Only thing we're taking out of the car is a mic harness that has 3 pins?
3) Instead of cutting the mic wires, can we just take out the pins from the Fit and put it into the appropriate spots on the TSX harness?
4) Does any of this wiring differ for people who don't have Navi, but have a mic for bluebooth?
5) if the 04 tsx I'm getting the unit from doesn't have Navi, will it still have a mic?
 

Last edited by Cruatchi; 02-13-2015 at 07:45 PM.
  #52  
Old 02-15-2015, 09:27 AM
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Problems

I meticulously followed the directions and made the wiring harness. I hooked everything up except the ambient LED wire. Now when I press any of the tree homelink buttons my map lights come on. Also the homelink indicator light does not light up. Any thoughts would be welcome.
 
  #53  
Old 02-16-2015, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by tankton
^^If that was a reply to my posts, it's because I have a base model (no preexisting wiring for the map lights). I figured I may as well go full hog (more importantly, the CHH modified one requires one to occasionally take out the entire thing and replace the battery every once in a while).


Though for the Sport model owners, it does seem like a logical choice (if expensive).
Oh okay. That totally makes sense. I didn't see you had base. What I'd do for a sun glass holder Again. My 08 Accord EX-L Navi had this.
 
  #54  
Old 08-11-2023, 12:48 PM
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So I bought what I thought was the same homelink module and turns out mine had no MIC at all. I ended up having to remove the MIC from the old unit, rip it apart so it will fit and shove it into the new homelink module and put some pigtail wire to plug into the original MIC connector.

That being said, I connected power + ground and the homelink works (as a temporary hack). Do you know what the door switched ground is for? I understand what the ambient light wires are for but the door switched I'm not sure.
 
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