The reason I used the OEM nav bracket and modified Metra bracket parts is because the Honda OEM nav is slightly larger than the standard double DIN that the Asteroid and most other aftermarket head units use. You'll see once you put the Asteroid into the bracket that there is about 1/4" of extra space on each side.

As far as an electrical risk from grounding the brake bypass - there is none. When connected as INTENDED, the bypass is only grounded when the parking brake is on. The unit uses the sensing of this ground to determine whether or not to allow certain functions. I am not a lawyer, and certainly not YOUR lawyer, so I cannot advise you what you may or may not be permitted to do by your local constabulary, insurance carrier, etc.

A wonderful addition to the Asteroid has been created by a very cool developer - Asteroid Tweaker. It has solved my need to manually reboot the Unika and adds a host of other slick features like GPS/speed based volume adjustment. Check it out!

 

I think I'm going to go crazy if I can't adapt the old USB cable to the iPod USB port.

Do you know any way to do this? In my fit of OCD, I took apart the old radio's control box hoping to get something I could solder to the individual wires of a USB to create an adapter, but the port is soldered directly to the PCB so I'm not sure how to disassemble it (I probably should've expected that). I destroyed my factory radio in the process and threw it away haha

 

Hi All,

So I finally got everything up and running the way I liked. I did make a few changes..

So I started out building my own "reverse ISO" connector, which worked but... I'll be honest, didn't feel like soldering the whole thing together. So I found this ISO harness hanging out in England for the Jazz.

Granted, I had to wait for it to ship from Europe, but it worked perfectly. If you're not looking for steering wheel controls, it's quite literally plug in play. Take the harness from the Parrot, plug it into this guy, plug that into the car harness and you're done -- no cutting or soldering.

The next piece was the Unika. I'll be honest, my laziness played a role here again. I got it, looked at it, and then promptly put it back into the box because I was leery of spending a number of hours trying to get it to work -- I've heard a lot of horror stories. It so happens that the new version of the Parrot Smart firmware, 2.1.14, supports the Metra . It's about half the price of the Unika and is auto programming. You'll also need this http://www.spiralinstallations.com/AX-SWC-PARROT?keyword=AX-SWC-PARROT to connect to the head unit.

There are a couple of wires that the ISO Jazz harness is missing for the Metra ASWC-1. Pin 5 needs to go to ground and pin 16 to ignition switched +12V. See instructions from Metra here.

I ended up cutting into the ISO harness to wire up the switched power and ground - didn't touch the vehicle wiring. I added the missing pins from a spare Metra harness that I had from when I was building my own earlier on. Once down, I powered up and the ASWC-1 programmed itself. It just seems to work out of the box. I'm very happy with it and haven't seen any issues with it not being detected.

Other notes -- I went ahead and used the Metra mount rather than purchasing the OEM. It works fine and almost matches the black interior of the 2012 FIT Sport. Add a little Armor All and I think it looks fine.

As far as the Parrot Smart itself:

1. I wish the mode button would switch to Spotify. Overall I wish the Spotify integration was tighter.
2. I really wish it could remember state at shut down
3. Waze is a bit buggy, and the unit seems to be a bit underpowered to run it. I rooted and installed Google Maps which seems to work well.

Honestly it's a bit of a buggy unit, but I think I'm reasonably happy with it and there aren't many alternatives at this point.

Thanks again for your help, fatdoggie.

 

I guess your only options are:
1) Made the upper glove box panel from a blank as I previously suggested and add the USB and line-in jack
2) Cut the factory cable off outside the factory control box and splice a regular USB male end on it. If you take this approach (which I do not recommend), take great care to maintain twist on the two data lines and keep the solder joints and heat shrink small and clean. You may also want to ensure you save enough foil sheilding from either the end you splice on or the Honda factory end to wrap over the splice. USB 2.0 lines are high speed and will not tolerate a bunch of interference.

Good luck...

 

Glad to see the Asteroid is supporting an interface other than the Unika now!

The only reason I went OEM was because Honda decided to start painting the dash trim silver on the 2013 (at least the Sport models...). At least the parts were not terribly pricey!

 

Well, I sold my Fit and pulled out the parrot... If anyone wants one with everything you need to install in the Fit sport, prewired, with ASWC steering wheel control, let me know.

 

How much are you looking for? Feel free to PM me.

 

by any chance, do you have the original pin layout to the stock radio? I hit a huge road block trying to change out to an after market radio and now I'm trying to repin this plug to get hooked back up to the stock radio