Manual Transmission Fluid Change
#43
I use Redline products or AMSOIL depending on what's available and what sort of use I anticipate the car will see.
Stock Fit with regular on-road use.. straight OE Honda MTF, AMSOIL Syn or Redline MT90.
For a stock Fit that will see a mix of mostly street and some track abuse... 2/3 MT90, 1/3 Lightweight Shockproof. I would use this in a street-only boosted Fit as well.
For a full race NA Fit 1/3 MT90 + 2/3 LW Shockproof
For a boosted full race Fit either straight LW Shockproof or a mix of 1/3 MT90 and 2/3 Heavy Shockproof.
GM Synchromesh is another good DD fluid.
In the end it becomes personal preference, I have good luck with Redline, even though some people (who have never tried it) will warn you about paraffins seperating out under temperature and shearing from the gears.
I also recommend MT90 for people with notchy shifting or a grind in or out of a specific gear. Though it is usually just a band-aid fix for actual trans work.
Redline's shockproof line is some interesting stuff. I use it in the race car exclusively with great luck.
I currently have a stock 125k mile FWD transmission in the Laser which was initially only rated for 205lb-ft torque at the flywheel, with the gears rated at only 275lb-ft.
For the last 13 months I have been making between 1.5-2 times that much torque with no ill effects. Granted I rarely launch from stand still, mostly highway runs, but when you consider I redline just over 9000rpm on a trans designed for 7000rpm along with dumping nearly double its intended power through it.. I'd say that speaks for its self.
#44
Guess how I know........you guessed it......I worked for Honeywell at the Fram plant in Greenville, OH.
#45
Howdy all!
When I had my Fit in for the LMS service, they did a standard 20pt check. The service tech told me that my trans. fluid was on the brown side, and suggested changing it. I passed at the time, as I will be going back in for an oil change, and I figured I would get everything done at once.
I realize that it probably isn't that difficult of a procedure, but as someone else mentioned, getting everything together and doing it myself is just not something I choose to do at this time.
Here's the issue though - when I called the dealer to ask about scheduling, they told me about all their different levels of transmission service. According to the scheduler, there is the regular service ($75) which removes/replaces about 1/3 of the fluid; the full service ($110) which removes/replaces all the fluid (9qts is what she said); and the flush with chemicals ($189) which removes/replaces all the fluid with a chem. flush in between.
It sounds to me like she was just reading off a list, but would they really just dilute the current fluid with new stuff? And is all of this applicable to the Fit? From the previous posts, it sounds to me like pulling the drain plug will pretty much empty the current fluid. I'm fine with letting them totally drain/replace my fluid for $75, but if it's just a dilution, then I might start thinking about doing the whole thing myself.
Thanks for any input!
When I had my Fit in for the LMS service, they did a standard 20pt check. The service tech told me that my trans. fluid was on the brown side, and suggested changing it. I passed at the time, as I will be going back in for an oil change, and I figured I would get everything done at once.
I realize that it probably isn't that difficult of a procedure, but as someone else mentioned, getting everything together and doing it myself is just not something I choose to do at this time.
Here's the issue though - when I called the dealer to ask about scheduling, they told me about all their different levels of transmission service. According to the scheduler, there is the regular service ($75) which removes/replaces about 1/3 of the fluid; the full service ($110) which removes/replaces all the fluid (9qts is what she said); and the flush with chemicals ($189) which removes/replaces all the fluid with a chem. flush in between.
It sounds to me like she was just reading off a list, but would they really just dilute the current fluid with new stuff? And is all of this applicable to the Fit? From the previous posts, it sounds to me like pulling the drain plug will pretty much empty the current fluid. I'm fine with letting them totally drain/replace my fluid for $75, but if it's just a dilution, then I might start thinking about doing the whole thing myself.
Thanks for any input!
#46
From what I've been reading about the AT fluids... the drain plug doesn't empty out the whole thing, only about 1/3. So people have been doing multiple fluid changes and still manage maybe 75% of the total. I'm not sure if the MT is the same.
#47
The auto tranny has an external cooler and other appendages which make a total drain much more difficult. A manual is basically just a "box full of gears". I can't think of a reason why the manual wouldn't drain pretty completely.
#48
when I called the dealer to ask about scheduling, they told me about all their different levels of transmission service. According to the scheduler, there is the regular service ($75) which removes/replaces about 1/3 of the fluid; the full service ($110) which removes/replaces all the fluid (9qts is what she said); and the flush with chemicals ($189) which removes/replaces all the fluid with a chem. flush in between.
It sounds to me like she was just reading off a list,
It sounds to me like she was just reading off a list,
I just ordered a few oil filters two weeks ago. All made by Filtech Inc. A quick Google shows no relation to Fram, Allied Signal or Honeywell. Filtech is a US arm for a Japanese company, Toyo Roki. They started operations only a couple years after Honda's Ohio engine plant began producing engines in large numbers. Located only 60 miles away from Honda's plant is no coincidence either (adds to US content of cars). This is as close to a Honda quality filter that you will find. Used on every Honda made the last 20 years except S2000 and Insight.
Filtech
_
#49
mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic review
i just swapped the honda mtf for mobil 1 synthetic gear oil and let me tell you shifting is smooth! ive out a 1,000 miles on the oil and it just keeps getting smoother. my 09 fit has 50,000 miles on it so it was due for a change of mtf. I wish i had changed it sooner really improves the notchy shifter feel. overall replacement of the fluid was easy, i removed half of the under tray to access the drain and fill bolts. I used a hand pump to get the new fluid in. For those of you who think 75w-90 is to thick here is some clarification
http://auto.badtziscool.com/wp-conte...sity_table.jpg
http://auto.badtziscool.com/wp-conte...sity_table.jpg
#50
My '09 MT is still shifting like new at 67k miles on the original fluid. I'll change it either when the MM tells me to, or possibly around 100k miles. I still expect the car to go several hundred thousand miles (or more) without major issues.
#51
The plastic under tray does not have to be removed completely but taking out 3 plastic clips and one screw around the driver side wheel helps to get to the drain and fill plugs.
I used Honda OEM fluid (it's 9$ at the dealership). Each car takes about 1.6 quarts.
I replace mine every 25000 - 30000 miles (which for our cars is about once every 3 years.
The drain plug is a 3/8 ratchet drive square and the fill plug takes a 17 mm socket. Cheap insurance at 18$ per car. We used a plastic tube which my dad poured the fluid in from the engine bay while I held it in the filler hole from underneath the car. We lifted the car and supported it with two jack stands.
Last edited by john21031; 03-11-2016 at 10:29 PM.
#52
Cant find one but I I seem to recall some hydraulic filters that said "Filtec an Allied signal company"..
Honda makes very little besides the sheetmetal and the block for their cars pretty much everything is outsourced these days, (All marques for that matter not just honda... ) Hell Yamaha casts the Aluminum blocks for GM..
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