Hi Mr. Hollow,

When I flush my brake I bought 2 liters of brake fluid and it still have a bit left... so minimum 1500ml but 2000ml will be the best bet just to be safe.

I use ATE TYP200 because their spec is very close to Motul but much cheaper.

I also use EBC green pads while I was still on my stock front brake a while ago,
they are much better than the stock pads but they do not last as long as the stock one and lot of brake dust, still I like them so much that I keep buying them

I am currently using EBC greenstuff on my rear brake but might try either the redstuff or even the yellowstuff next time I change my rear brake pads.

 

Just performed 60k (B123) service. Oil and filter (Mobil 0w20, Honda Manual trans fluid, Fram in-cabin filter, recharged the K&N drop in air filter and tire rotation. Took about 2 hours. Would've been faster if I invested in a real floor jack instead of using the dinky scissor jack to get all 4 corners on jack stands and ensure everything was level lol.

 

Hey ALPINA,

Thanks for the info! I have also heard about ATE TYP 200 (the blue stuff), but was unsure of how it compared to the Motul. I might go with that instead.

I don't mind the extra brake dust, my wheels are bronze so it hides it haha

My friend runs yellowstuff for autocross and says they are great! I think redstuff might be a bit too harsh for just regular driving.

Thanks!

 

Shinjari, please Please PLEASE do not use the oem scissor jack to do that ever again. Those are extremely unsafe and unreliable. They are for emergency situations only. They're nicknamed "widow makers" because they have been know to fail and drop the car, sometimes on people. Not to mention the only have a limited use. Eventually the threads will cross thread and seize all together. I had this happen to me while the car was lifted. My car was stuck until my neighbor came home to let me use his jack.

Purchase a harbor freight aluminum racing jack. They are super light and are low profile which is great if your car is lowered. Also they are really cheap!! All of my autocross friends use them on the track and the quality is good.

1.5 Ton Compact Aluminum Racing Floor Jack with Rapid Pump®

Check your local paper for coupons. They usually have coupons for this jack at about $70. But I found a special one for $60 about a month ago.

Just be safe, its not worth it to have the car drop or to have it fall on you all for the price of $70 bucks!

 

Hi Mr. Hollow,
There used to be 2 kind of ATE Brake Fluid (the high performance one),
there is this TYP 200 and the ATE Blue. Both of them had the same exact boiling point spec, the difference is one is dyed Blue and one is Clear.
So people use to alternate between the ATE Blue and TYP200, this way
when they flush the brake fluid they know that it had been flush completely when it change color.

But about 2 years ago, there is a BAN from government that make the ATE Blue illegal to be sold in USA because the blue color were supposed to be only for other liquid... and not brake fluid.

so now ATE only sell one kind which is the CLEAR color ATE TYP200.

Regarding the EBC brake pads, the yellowstuff is suppose to be more aggressive than the redstuff.

someday, I want to try Castrol SRF brake fluid... it is just that it is quite expensive...

 

I like my optilux yellow fogs, but I'm thinking with a halo setup, 6000k hid fogs would look better. Did you guys use a relay kit or just plug directly into stock wiring? I know it's a no brainer for headlights but wasn't sure about the fogs. Also, does anyone know where to get the true fit crew windshield banner?

 

come find us on facebook. Truefitcrew

 

Mr. Hollow thanks for the concern. I should mention I was NOT under the car while it was supported by the scissor jack. I only used the jack to lift the car and put the car on jack stands on all 4 corners. Believe me even under the jack stands I realize how little clearance there is under the car and if the jack stands for some crazy reason broke/fail....I doubt I'd be here typing this.

Or are you saying that even lifting the car with the scissor jack to do maintenance is a no no?

I have been eyeing the harbor freight jack or even costco has a very nice aluminum floor jack for about $100 and has a bit more capacity than the harbor freight one.

Just haven't gotten around to buying it.
3 Ton Professional Grade Aluminum And Steel Service Jack

 

Oops I got red and yellow mixed up. Yellow is supposed to be harder.

 

Yes even lifting the car is a no/no. The scissor lifts are for roadside emergency uses only, basic maintenance should not use it.

Not only can the car drop but the scissor jack but it can tilt and fall on its side and causing the car to fall down.

The scissor jack can seize while being lifted causing the car to be stuck stranded in the air.

Go out and buy one before your next maintenance project. You wouldn't use a screw driver to hammer a nail, so be sure to use the right tool for the job!

 

Gave the "wee blue beast" a water bath today. Usually because of our ongoing (permanent?) drought here in NorthCal I have been using a "water-less" wash ( a Girot's Garage product) but every now & again you just have to pull out the hose & buckets....
Also tackled some oxidation spots on both headlights that were showing up- used 3M's Headlight Renewal since it was not bad enough for a full headlight restoration. Product did a great job, cleaned up those spots easily and gave the rest of the headlight a good polish.

 

Thanks brother.

 

Hi Ryu,
I remember a while ago you fix your JDP hood that have damage during shipping.

My Takero's rear carbon fiber wing lips finish start to deteriorate due to UV radiation and became dull.
I want to refinish it.
Could you please briefly describe the process?
and do the resin that I bought on eBay that was suggested by you for coating my Mugen Carbon Fiber airbox work for re coating process?
Thanks

 

Assuming that they clear coated it, and there's no chips/cracks on the clear coat, you can just compound/polish/wax it. If they did use clear coat and it's staining yellow thats pretty unfortunate that they didn't use 2k clear coat which is UV resistant (my limited knowledge of paint).

Now, I know you are a perfectionist and would want to get a better clear coat. I would sand the entire thing with a block sander. Start with 1000. Have shop reclear coat it for with 2K clear coat. You can either finish the sanding or let them do it.

If it is just the takeros add on wing lip since it's pretty small, You can probably do the clear coat yourself with a spray can. If you go this route, after 3-4 layers of clear coat, i'd then sand with 1500, 2000, then compound/polish/wax.

 

Thanks for the information Ryu

 

oh and do be careful when u sand. dont forget u need to wet sand clear coat. dont go to deep. you will see if u are going to deep past the clear coat and past the resin and u start to see the actual fibers.

 

I've been using the OEM scissor jack 4+ years to do seasonal wheel change and nothing else. It works just fine for me.

 

Installed the STI S204 lip on my '12 fit. Not as hard as I thought it would be, and for $50 it looks pretty damn good. Also installed a 3" carbon fiber/aluminum antenna. I'll post pics at some point cause I'm lazy. Very soon I hope to get some spoiler tilt brackets from DansFit, and then I'm gonna re-do my retrofit with halos, demon eyes, and the G37r shroud. Oh how I love summer.

 

Did you happen to get this kit on AutoAnything? They're selling drilled and slotted rotors and Greenstuff pads for $190, hopefully I'm going to get these soon

 

Yes I did, although save your self some cash and just buy the slotted package. Cross drilled doesn't do anything for performance at all its just for looks. In fact the braking surface area is reduced because of the holes, so some say its even worse than regular rotors.