Engine Vibration
#1
Engine Vibration
On my friend's '09 Fit Base 5AT, I feel that there is excessive engine vibration.
If you have the transmission in park, with the hood open, I can visibly see a small movement of the engine at idle, which doesn't seem right to me.
At a traffic light in Drive, I can feel a light vibration throughout the car. The vibration is at about the same level as my personal Saturn which has worn motor mounts.
Now, I am not familiar with Honda engines but I don't remember the new Civic that I rode in to have any vibration at all, nor do I remember the 2.4L Accord I drove to have any vibration either.
Is it normal for the Fit's engine to vibrate at idle? This car in question has almost 32,000 miles on it. Also, I noticed that upon light acceleration at < 20 mph speeds, I hear a slight "dieseling" (for the lack of a better term) sound coming from this engine. It reminds of an old car "chugging." Is that normal as well?
Thanks.
If you have the transmission in park, with the hood open, I can visibly see a small movement of the engine at idle, which doesn't seem right to me.
At a traffic light in Drive, I can feel a light vibration throughout the car. The vibration is at about the same level as my personal Saturn which has worn motor mounts.
Now, I am not familiar with Honda engines but I don't remember the new Civic that I rode in to have any vibration at all, nor do I remember the 2.4L Accord I drove to have any vibration either.
Is it normal for the Fit's engine to vibrate at idle? This car in question has almost 32,000 miles on it. Also, I noticed that upon light acceleration at < 20 mph speeds, I hear a slight "dieseling" (for the lack of a better term) sound coming from this engine. It reminds of an old car "chugging." Is that normal as well?
Thanks.
Last edited by The Critic; 03-11-2010 at 01:09 AM.
#2
could you tell us what RPM its idling at (when the engine is at normal operating temp). My car is about 25,000 mi and I do notice there's a slightly rougher vibration at ilde compared to when the car was new in the dealer lot, but I think it has more to do with age. I drive my car pretty rough and love to rev it to 6000 RPM every once in a while so I'm happy with how my car is holding up so far. The weird thing with my car is when the temperature outside is cold, itll idle around 700-800 RPM and this is at normal oper. temperature and when the weather is warmer, itll idle at 500. Hopefully our cars are modern enough to not idle like old hondas do now. My friend has an '94 Accord with 200,000 miles on it and it's sooooooo funny at idle. It makes you feel like a belly dancer because your seat is vibrating so much.
#3
I don't remember off hand what it's idling at, but I think it is about 800 rpm.
Honestly, a car with 32,000 miles should not be showing rougher idle or increased vibration at such a low mileage. Especially one that has been maintained in accordance to the OEM recommendations. The "dieseling" like sound during light acceleration also concerns me.
Honestly, a car with 32,000 miles should not be showing rougher idle or increased vibration at such a low mileage. Especially one that has been maintained in accordance to the OEM recommendations. The "dieseling" like sound during light acceleration also concerns me.
#5
Yeah, a "clatter" or "diesel-like" noise would be the best description. I did a routine oil change and inspection on it last month and discovered the problems, so I'll probably bring it into the dealer soon since the warranty is running out.
#6
I googled your situation. There's a few forums that say it could be bad engine mounts like what you described about your saturn. you should take it to the dealer, it's an easy thing to spot if it is the mounts.
#7
Might need a valve adjustment. If the valves are not within spec they will cause the sound you are describing from the engine. Get up under the car and physically look at the mounts to see if they are still in one piece. On my old 5R Integra I had no idea my front engine mount rubber was broken, but it cost me a pretty penny because twice my Amuse R1 cracked at the flange to the exmani, 1st time was still running the stock exmani and 2nd time was running the Toda exmani with the flex pipe built in, but that cracked also and put the stock mani back on and within a week the Amuse cracked for the 2nd time. Not only until I purchased Mugen mounts and replaced them did I see my problem from the get go. I was quite pissed at Honda for using such a low durometer rubber especially on a R type model where it was made to be beat on and that is what I did with it.
Hopefully it is nothing serious, I would of asked if your friend by chance over-revved, but since it is an AT, I don't really see that happening at least not as easily as with a MT.
Hopefully it is nothing serious, I would of asked if your friend by chance over-revved, but since it is an AT, I don't really see that happening at least not as easily as with a MT.
#8
Might need a valve adjustment. If the valves are not within spec they will cause the sound you are describing from the engine. Get up under the car and physically look at the mounts to see if they are still in one piece. On my old 5R Integra I had no idea my front engine mount rubber was broken, but it cost me a pretty penny because twice my Amuse R1 cracked at the flange to the exmani, 1st time was still running the stock exmani and 2nd time was running the Toda exmani with the flex pipe built in, but that cracked also. Not only until I purchased Mugen mounts and replaced them did I see my problem from the get go. I was quite pissed at Honda for using such a low durometer rubber especially on a R type model where it was made to be beat on and that is what I did with it.
Hopefully it is nothing serious, I would of asked if your friend by chance over-revved, but since it is an AT, I don't really see that happening at least not as easily as with a MT.
Hopefully it is nothing serious, I would of asked if your friend by chance over-revved, but since it is an AT, I don't really see that happening at least not as easily as with a MT.
I did a search on the forum and came up with this thread. I think the "clattering" noise I was describing earlier sounds like the one that the person was describing in this thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...se-engine.html
#9
I, too, noticed this vibration. I was holding the car with the brake while setting my music, and the pedal and my seat was vibrating very heavily, to the point where it was uncomfortable to keep holding the brake. My car is only 5 months old and has about 9k miles on it, and I've noticed it while stopped at red lights also.
If I continue to see this, I'm going to have to bring her in. What do dealerships generally charge just to look at these things?
If I continue to see this, I'm going to have to bring her in. What do dealerships generally charge just to look at these things?
#10
This is sure to be an unpopular answer, but there is nothing wrong with it. My windshield wiper vibrates at idle when i run shitty gas or 87 octane. Goes away when i run midgrade. Now, i'm not saying you have to run one type of gas or the other (hell, i've run premix in mine in a pinch), but I am saying that it makes a difference in terms of vibration. At least on mine. And most likely on yours. And everyones. No big deal.
#11
It depends on your dealer.
If you take a car to the dealer and the technician is unable to find a problem, then the technician will write on the RO "NPF" meaning no problem found.
At some dealers, the technician has to find something wrong or else they won't get paid. At others, the technician gets paid regardless.
At the dealers where the technicians get paid even if they are unable to find a problem, then it varies by dealer. Some dealers will eat the charge since it is a warranty ticket. Other dealers will pass the charge onto the customer. For example, my friend had his Mazda 3 at the dealer for a hesitation problem. The tech was unable to reproduce the problem so he was charged $140 even though the car was still under the bumper-to-bumper.
So, definitely ask your service advisor before your bring it in. Better yet, see if you can reproduce some of the problems to your service advisor. This will prevent nasty surprises in the end.
You may very well be correct. We'll see what the dealer says when I bring it in, which will be in the next few weeks.
If you take a car to the dealer and the technician is unable to find a problem, then the technician will write on the RO "NPF" meaning no problem found.
At some dealers, the technician has to find something wrong or else they won't get paid. At others, the technician gets paid regardless.
At the dealers where the technicians get paid even if they are unable to find a problem, then it varies by dealer. Some dealers will eat the charge since it is a warranty ticket. Other dealers will pass the charge onto the customer. For example, my friend had his Mazda 3 at the dealer for a hesitation problem. The tech was unable to reproduce the problem so he was charged $140 even though the car was still under the bumper-to-bumper.
So, definitely ask your service advisor before your bring it in. Better yet, see if you can reproduce some of the problems to your service advisor. This will prevent nasty surprises in the end.
This is sure to be an unpopular answer, but there is nothing wrong with it. My windshield wiper vibrates at idle when i run shitty gas or 87 octane. Goes away when i run midgrade. Now, i'm not saying you have to run one type of gas or the other (hell, i've run premix in mine in a pinch), but I am saying that it makes a difference in terms of vibration. At least on mine. And most likely on yours. And everyones. No big deal.
#12
In my Fit, I have some pretty noticeable vibration when the car is cold that largely goes away after the car has warmed up, though it's never as smooth as my friend's V6 Highlander. Does it change in your case whether the car is up to operating temperature or not (which takes about 5-10 minutes of driving in my car)?
You said you see the engine moving slightly in park, do you feel vibrations then as well, or only in Drive?
You said you see the engine moving slightly in park, do you feel vibrations then as well, or only in Drive?
#13
In my Fit, I have some pretty noticeable vibration when the car is cold that largely goes away after the car has warmed up, though it's never as smooth as my friend's V6 Highlander. Does it change in your case whether the car is up to operating temperature or not (which takes about 5-10 minutes of driving in my car)?
Very, very light vibrations in park. If you really tried to look for them you can find the vibrations.
#15
Continuous I think. I'll have to check again, but I believe it's more pronounced when the A/C is running.
#18
Interesting issue - I would lean towards the mounts
However
It does seem like we have a split thread
two threads - same author - same subject - same forum
I would caution against doing this
makes following through to solution
real difficult
Need a Moderator to combine them
However
It does seem like we have a split thread
two threads - same author - same subject - same forum
I would caution against doing this
makes following through to solution
real difficult
Need a Moderator to combine them