I made a thread about bending mine a while back and thought I would update my Torsion bar experience.

It was as simple as the two bolts for the struts, and two bolts in the front.
Take out the abs sensors (two 10mm bolts) and the brake lines and you ALMOST ready to drag it away.

For the ebrake cables you need to remove a few brackets and I found it easier to pull the center console inside the car and remove the whole cable from inside the car to go with the beam.

Took me about 2 hours to remove the old one and install the new one start to finish.

Mind you my new torsion beam was a complete assemble with brakes, ebrakes cables and all the bells and whistles from an 2010 base/LX or w/e Fit with 25000 KMS.

I lost the factory sway bar option I COULD attempt to remove it from the old beam and weld it into the new one but thats far more work then I wanna bother with even with free welding from a friend. Going to purchase an aftermarket sway bar this summer.

Car is driving a tad odd now. Drives pretty much straight on the dry highway but as soon as you dip a rear tire onto ice/snow and the other has traction the rear of the car kicks out a bit. If your on all snow or ice you dont notice anything.

Then again that might just be me not used to ice/snow in the new Fit compared to the old. I have to get it onto a proper alignment rack to see how straight it all turned out soon...

Oh well live and learn eh? I think in a few years once my job/apprenticeship has progressed Ill trade up to a Ford F350 Superduty. Because in a few years time my track/drift car will be finished and no longer road legal and a tow rig is needed lol.

Till then rock on everyone! If anyone has any specific questions ask away! (unless it has to do with how the rear drums go together... I took an old one apart and have no idea how it was supposed to go together LOL)

Battle stance~! 205-55-16's!

 

like the wheel color sweet

 

Nice. The fogs and wheels go well together.

Why the 205/55 instead of 205/50. the car will be slower... or are those winter tires? I went taller for my snows. (185/65/15 instead of 185/60/15)

Also, as for the rear kicking out, it might actually be the front regaining traction under acceleration as if the rears are going over Ice, the fronts must have as well.

~SB

 

+rep for DIY job. Did you take photos of the torsion beam swap?

 

Mmmm I've owned a few differnt vehicles and this kicking out definatly isnt natural. My 09 Fit with New WRG2's was a tank on ice and snow and pre curb this sport was pretty good. Yeah the rear is light and did wobble but not kick out.

Still haven't taken it to a shop yet... >.> Too lazy and these blizzaks arent that great so they can be eaten off for all I care.


Yes I did take a few pics on my cell, Havent uploaded them anywhere or decided if I wanna write a DIY as it isnt a complex job unless you needed to pull apart the brakes haha.

I went with the 205/55's because they were used tires for $50 and between buying my S14 in the garage I didnt have cash for new rubber. They have enough tread to warrant using them over the Dunlops with 6000kms on them.

I love the meaty tire look too They fill the wheels wells quite nice. If I did lower the car I think 205/50's would be needed as I would rub with 55's and new tread depth.



If you guys show enough interest I could do a DIY!

 

OMGGGG u changed it Thats whats up bro Glad to see her running good again... Get that sway bar and all should be good ! Just DONT weld the old one in get aftermarket

 

Hello,

I want to kindly ask what is the Torque Specification for
a. The 2 Rear Bolt that attached the Torsion Bar to the Chassis.
b. The 2 Rear Strut Bolt
(is there any important bolt beside the 4 mention above?)

Oh, another questions:
How much is the Approximate Weight of the whole Rear Torsion Beam Assembly?
I wonder how heavy it is whether I need a helping hand to install this Rear Torsion Beam or I can do it by myself...

also, is the Parking Brake cable extend directly from the rear axle to the parking brake lever,
or does it have a junction on the bottom of the car?

Thank You

 

HUUUGEEEE BUMP.

To answer a few questions for reference if anyone else searches this.

No idea on torque specs. The main torsen beam bolts to chassis were done with a breaker bar and some guesstimation. Being a mechanic you learn to feel when things are getting too tight haha.

As far as the strut to torsen beam bolts those are done with a 3/8's impact gun ( My Ingersoll Rand titanium gun) set to 2 out of 4 and again tightened until I feel its tight enough.

I thiiiink the cables go straight to the handle. In my case I remember replacing them up to the handle anyways as it was easiest to do so and I had a new set with the new axle I bought.

The axle is quite heavy and took two people to lift it into the jeep we used to pick it up. It also too two people to line up the torsen>chassis bolts. Although with a floor jack and some time you could probably do it yourself no problem.