Hi all,

I've recently acquired my first Fit-- a 2009 Sport MT.

While in the shop for the first time a wheel stud broke. I'm getting conflicting reports on whether or not the bearing will need to be replaced when the wheel stud is replaced. I understand you have to remove the hub when replacing the studs. When the bearing is pressed off, can it be pressed back on? Can you re-use the old bearing? Also, is an alignment recommended after this kind of repair? Again, I'm getting conflicting reports.

I'd appreciate your thoughts!

Thanks!

 

Bearing replacement isn't necessary when changing/replacing studs. Bearings aren't "pressed" in or out (studs should be). If the bearings need replacing this is a cost effective time to do this, if they're following the complete stud replacement procedure.

An alignment is recommended, as the shop manual procedure for replacing studs requires removal of the knuckle which involves disconnecting the tie-rod ends to remove the hub.

Some mechanics will take short cuts up to and including hammering the studs out without removing the hub. This could damage the hub and or bearing and become more expensive than doing it right in the first place.

Link to shop manual.

 

Do a search, this topic has been discussed before. My daughter had a 09 front stud replaced by the dealer for under $20.

 

The way the front hub is made, once you press the bearing off, it can't be reused. I've replaced one stud before without taking off the wheel bearing by tapping out the broken one. There should be enough room at a certain rotation to get a broken one out. The new stud, I shaved off one side and it gave enough room to tap it in. Note that shaving off one side of the stud should not pose a problem.

If you want to spend some money and do the correct way with the press, buy the hub spindle and the wheel bearing. It will make it less painful.

 

Thanks for the replies.

It's true this has been covered before. See:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge-08-present/69362-wheel-stud-n-bearing-question.html

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...placement.html

I have to say, I'm still not completely clear on the topic. Looks like one of those things that I'll have to see in person to appreciate.

With all due respect ohw, I'd say your daughter's experience is an outlier. The stud and lug nut alone cost nearly as much as your daughter's total bill. I'm getting quotes between $200 and $400 (dealers and independents), depending on whether they think a new bearing and alignment are necessary. Always interesting when different Honda dealers in the same area give very different quotes for the same repair...

Thanks again.

 

I would be concerned why the stud broke. If as implied in another thread, it was the tire dealers fault, I would be concerned about all the studs. Whatever method they used to tighten (torque to spec. hopefully) I would assume they did it to all the 16 lug nuts.

 

yeah, check them all. I had an over-zealous tire-monkey torque the crap out of my old Honda. They stripped at least two studs on each wheel. "Oh we couldn't have done that, they just wore out! All Hondas have this problem! We use torque bars!" Then the shady-mechanic the tire store sent me to proceeded to strip more when they put the wheels back on. That was a fun 10 days. Discount Tire, Busby Parkway, Kennesaw. Never again.

I'm guessing the stud broke as they were loosening the nut, or we wouldn't be having this discussion. If they spun it off putting the nut back on, then yes, they're liable (getting them to admit it is another problem).

 

Hello Steve244,

I see that you had access to Shop Manual for Honda Fit,
Could You please kindly help me with the shop manual for:

a. The Shop Manual for Removing the entire Rear Torsion Beam/Rear Axle
I specifically need the bolt torque value to tighten the 2 large bolt (BOLT, FLANGE (14X128) - 2013 HONDA FIT (90164-SMG-E00))that hold the axle to the chassis (left and right),

and

The 2 torque to tighten bolt (BOLT, FLANGE (10X73) - 2013 HONDA FIT (90172-SLJ-000)) that hold the bottom of the rear strut (left and right).


b. The Shop Manual for Replacing the Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub/Stud

Thank You in advance.

 

Man, I hope this was the only one! Whatever this will cost me x 4 would break the bank. This occurred during a tire rotation, presumably while they were loosening the nut. So I'm guessing they got through the others fine, or else I would have heard about it.

BWM Alpina, in the second link above in my original post there's a link to an HTML version of the shop manual for Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement. Might be of use to you. It opened for me in Safari but not in Firefox.

 

its not the end of the dang world.

throw an old lugnut on the stud that needs removal if enough is left, and beat it loose. no need to hulksmash the hammer either

You wont hurt any wheelbearing doing this


if the wheelbearing fails because of this, it would have scattered itself while driving. there is a TON more forces involved in driving and steering and braking then a simple hammer to a wheel stud

 

I'm sure this works. I'm sure a lot of shops would just take a pneumatic hammer/chisel and have at it. Who knows if premature bearing failure results; the forces of a metallic chisel/hammer on the stud/hub are very different than driving forces dampened by both the tire and suspension. I'd remove the hub and take it to a shop with a hydraulic press, but that's just me.

After the experience with Discount Tire, I do my own rotations and torque correctly to 80lb-ft. NTB is very gentle (at least the one near me) but I still don't let them near it. The money spent on a torque wrench, floor jack and stands, is well worth it just to avoid the heartbreak of stripped nuts.

 

Hi Steve244,
I totally agree with you because the force from hammer/chisel is very different then the force of ordinary road on this bearing. (the way the force is being transferred)

The force from the road because of cornering (side to side movement/horizontal) are transferred equally on the entire mating surface of the bearing and the wheel hub,
while the force from the hammer/chisel are concentrated on tiny portion of the bearing.
That is why when you remove or install the bearing using hydraulic press,
despite the very strong force of the hydraulic press (much stronger then the power of the hammer/chisel blow), but it did not broke the bearing,
again because the force to remove/install the bearing were transferred more evenly and in a controlled manner (not sudden jolt).

if the force from the road came from road bump (vertically), while it is a strong jolt force,
but again, the force were distributed evenly on the entire mating surface.

so from my personal point of view,
it is always best to remove your bearing using correct/proper tool,
and not using hammer/chisel.

 

i use a slide hammer and pull the hub apart leaving the inner race in place and proceed to leave the bearing in steering knuckle . replace studs lign hub back up use a brass tap and a hammer to light tap in to bearing then use the 32mm nut to draw hub back into bearing after regreasing bearing never hada problem with it takes about 30 mins

 

That sounds like the kind of work I used to do, when I worked flat rate!
I thought thee had to be an easy way.
Thanks

 

so you are gonna replace bearing or doing it cause you think it needs removal to do studs?

Like I said, (and Im actually doing studs on camry now) thread an old lugnut on to safeguard the threads, and tap the stud loose if and only if you find a hole or notch left for removal on hub/knuckle. My camry demands the brake caliper and bracket to be removed to access notch cut out for stud removal.

light taps will not hurt the bearing!


If you have over 100k miles, it would definitely be a great opportunity to change bearing though!!

 

link to pdf. I think I saw all the torque specs you're looking for in these pages. Let me know if you don't see them...

 

Hi Steve244,

Thank you again for your kind help,
if in the future there is something I can help you,
Please do not hesitate to contact me.

Most of the torque specs are in the PDF documents that you post here,
the only thing missing is the Torque value for the Rear Shocks bolts.
(both the lower bolts that attached the shocks to the axle beam,
and the upper nuts that attached the shocks to the chassis).
If you happened to know their torque value, please kindly post it here too,
and
also whether I need to replace those bolts (for the rear shocks) or I can reuse them...
because for the front struts, according to the manual that you post few days ago,
we need to replace the 2 lower bolts for the front struts.
Thank You Again.

 

Rear shocks

 

Thanks again Steve244,
With your help,
Now I know all the torque value that I need

 

From reading all the posts, I would agree. That must be a really lucky day for her.
Good luck with your.