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Get final drive or lightened flywheel

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  #1  
Old 05-04-2013, 08:25 AM
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Get final drive or lightened flywheel

I am driving a GE8

Would like my car to rev faster but not suffer too much during cruising.
Looking at mfactory products
4.68 FD and flywheel

Any advice from gurus?
 
  #2  
Old 05-04-2013, 09:24 AM
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lighter wheels and tires will increase acceleration with less work.
 
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by krunk13
lighter wheels and tires will increase acceleration with less work.
my oe clutch will be changing soon.
therefore i would like to change either fd or flywheel together with clutch to save labour time
 
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:22 AM
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A ligher flywheel always helps with revs, BUT it usually "wears" much faster as well as presenting a risk of exploding (flying apart). Unless it is a race car, then I would probably change final drive.
 
  #5  
Old 05-04-2013, 10:57 AM
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I ran a lw flywheel on my gti for 4 years and never had an issue with it at all I enjoyed the upgrade alot on that car however, I ran one on my civic hatch it was ok not as big of a change like how it was on my gti.
 
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:07 PM
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Sounds good to me, that final is not too far off from the stock one that it would be annoying, flywheel is good choice to gain some "power".
 
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:12 PM
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Im in the same boat with my GD, ive got a clutch and im thinkin about just getting LSD and not doing FD or Lightweight FW
 
  #8  
Old 05-05-2013, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bisquick
A ligher flywheel always helps with revs, BUT it usually "wears" much faster as well as presenting a risk of exploding (flying apart). Unless it is a race car, then I would probably change final drive.
WHAT???? Please post your sources for this nonsense. There is nothing that "wears" on a flywheel other than the drive face and there is no difference in that area between differing weights of flywheels.

Do you really think in this day of "uncontrolled litigation" a company would sell a part that would "explode" easier than the part it is replacing?

The lighter the flywheel there is LESS chance of exploiding because there is less weight being acted on by centrifugal force simple physics.

The Fit engine doesn't come anywhere close to revving high enough to get into the range where "exploding" a flywheel becomes a concern.

There are a bunch of members on here that have installed a lightweight flywheel and they are still happy with the results after many many miles and not one exploded or wore out.
 
  #9  
Old 05-05-2013, 01:06 AM
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I just went to the tracks. Here is what I would recommend

1) Grab a lighter flywheel. These motors rev just fine, so no need to drop like 6-7 pounds. 3-4 pounds would be perfect for retaining near stock comfort, but still get benefits

2) Figure out a way to fight heat soak. My car ran a fastest time of 16.3, but after heatsoak set in, I could only manage high 17s and 18s, even with idling with the heater on blast

3) my DIY intake that I have pictures of in my album gave me some response and engine noise so you can now finally hear what the damn engine is doing

4) SCREW A FINAL DRIVE. The transmission is plenty short on these cars. Do you really feel the need to make this thing hit the redline in 5th under 100mph? screw that crap!

5) get to know your car. Do this step before anythign else. If you know your car, you would not even bother looking up final drives or gearsets. Honda did an amazing job on the fit's manual. It shifted great, crispy even, all night at the drags
 
  #10  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 13fit
I just went to the tracks. Here is what I would recommend

1) Grab a lighter flywheel. These motors rev just fine, so no need to drop like 6-7 pounds. 3-4 pounds would be perfect for retaining near stock comfort, but still get benefits

2) Figure out a way to fight heat soak. My car ran a fastest time of 16.3, but after heatsoak set in, I could only manage high 17s and 18s, even with idling with the heater on blast

3) my DIY intake that I have pictures of in my album gave me some response and engine noise so you can now finally hear what the damn engine is doing

4) SCREW A FINAL DRIVE. The transmission is plenty short on these cars. Do you really feel the need to make this thing hit the redline in 5th under 100mph? screw that crap!

5) get to know your car. Do this step before anythign else. If you know your car, you would not even bother looking up final drives or gearsets. Honda did an amazing job on the fit's manual. It shifted great, crispy even, all night at the drags
cool .
tks for advice there
 
  #11  
Old 07-15-2014, 05:14 AM
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Hi All,
Sometime back I purchase at GD3 Final Drive formy GD3 but recently I change to a GE8 was wondering will the Final Drive of GD3 able to fit into the GE8 gearbox?

Any Kind soul to shared some light on this??
Thanks.
 
  #12  
Old 07-15-2014, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by loudbang
WHAT???? Please post your sources for this nonsense. There is nothing that "wears" on a flywheel other than the drive face and there is no difference in that area between differing weights of flywheels.

Do you really think in this day of "uncontrolled litigation" a company would sell a part that would "explode" easier than the part it is replacing?

The lighter the flywheel there is LESS chance of exploiding because there is less weight being acted on by centrifugal force simple physics.

The Fit engine doesn't come anywhere close to revving high enough to get into the range where "exploding" a flywheel becomes a concern.

There are a bunch of members on here that have installed a lightweight flywheel and they are still happy with the results after many many miles and not one exploded or wore out.
Ive run several lightened flywheels and had one explode because of high RPM and being thin-walled. I can show you the calculations if you'd like. The mustang uses a near stock flywheel with a McLeod twin. It seems to hold the horsepower and I don't have to use a diaper or augmented housing.
 
  #13  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:22 AM
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I can't imagine wanting a shorter final drive on these cars, and a flywheel isn't doing much to help you accelerate faster. It'll help the engine change speeds faster between gears. That's marginally useful on a road course, where you're changing gears a lot and want the engine to spin up and down fast. It's kind of fun on the street as well. However, the amount of rotational inertia of the flywheel is pretty small compared to 4 wheels and tires that each weight twice as much and have 3x the radius (inertia rises with the square of radius). Even with the engine spinning much faster than the wheels, your biggest acceleration bang for the buck is the wheels/tires. Not to mention the improved grip, improved ride quality, improved feel and improvement in suspension functioning due to lower unsprung weight.
 
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