So, I have been a fit owner for three weeks today. I have a silver 2011 Honda Fit Sport with manual transmission.
I thought I would share what I have learned so far and things I try and do to prevent problems.

Private sellers are approximately $1,500 less than car dealer prices for used cars.

Shift at about 3,200 RPM gets you pretty close to the shift points recommended in the manual. However, the car likes RPM, so don't be afraid of shifting later to help prevent lugging of the engine.

Shift into 1st gear or reverse only when you are at a complete stop. It's best to slow down to a stop without downshifting since brakes are cheaper to change then a clutch. Try and not keep the clutch pedal pressed down unless you are shifting, so spend more time in neutral with the clutch pedal out then in a gear with the clutch pedal pressed down. The longer you have the clutch pedal pressed down the more wear on the clutch throw out bearing.
It is best when teaching someone how to drive for them to move from a stop in 1st gear with no gas until the clutch pedal is fully out. According to CarTalk this does the least amount of wear and tear.

Shut off the air conditioner a minute or two before you turn off the car to help prevent mold and mildew and associated smell.

17mm socket for oil drain plug. 29ftlbs of torque.
Use Mobil 1 M1-110 oil filter. Buy the oil filters online through advanced auto parts with one of the coupons from retailmenot.com. You can get them for approximately $8 per filter this way.
Buy DORMAN 095015 oil drain plug gaskets from rockauto.com for $0.33 each.
Buy Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy from Walmart for cheapest price.

Do NOT buy the Pentius PHB6080 cabin air filter because it is way too small and does not even come close to being the right size.
Instead buy Beck Arnley 042-2153 Cabin Air Filter for $16.04 from amazon. It is a perfect fit without any cutting.
I bought the Fram CA10650 Extra Guard Panel Air Filter for $16.10 from amazon and it fits for the engine air filter, looks a lot like the Honda one.
The Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Wrench works really really well at removing the oil filter, this is by far the easiest wrench I have used.

The Fit sits low, be sure to go at an angle when backing out the driveway onto the road, otherwise you'll scrape the front.

There is a gas cap holder on the gas door, don't have to sit the gas cap on top of the pump anymore.

The rear does not have any alignment adjustments, unless shims are fabricated. So, you will get a two wheel alignment, not four.

The armrest on the drivers seat appears like it might get worn quickly, however it appears as though it is replaceable.

 

Thanks for the lecture, Dad

I agree with your driving experience based on the 350 miles I've driven my '13 Sport mt. I don't like the height of the arm rest. Would love to get the OEM center storage but not if height is the same.

(But I gave up changing my own oil on modern cars 15 years ago)

 

I Completely agree with your brakes are cheaper than a clutch point. But I bet most people will maintain using "engine breaking" is the way to go. I got 280,000 Kms on my civic on its original clutch. And I don't use the gears to slow down. But of course, to each their own.

 

If I shut the a/c off 15 seconds before shutting the engine off, my wife would divorce me! (SW FL)
I still change my oil, after owning cars for 50 years.
I had my oil changed 2 times, by a shop, in that time. One was a Goodyear tire dealer. Lube, oil and filter. When the kid was lowering the car, I had to tell him to check the trans and rear end fluid.
The other time was in Arizona, while doing a cross country trip and it was 110 degrees.
After driving 20 miles from the Firestone dealer, in my van, I smelled smoke, as the engine started to run rough. Pulled over, and put out the fire on the engine. The asshole left a greasy rag on the engine, and caught fire, and burned a vacuum hoes.
Never again.
With easy access to the Fit filter and drain plug, is an easy change.
New drain plug gasket? Maybe after 10 or 15 changes.

 

Sitting still with the clutch pushed in doesn't wear the throw-out bearing much if any, because the transmission (and hence the bearing) isn't turning. It is under pressure, but it's just sitting there. Rolling with the clutch pressed in does wear the bearing some (though I don't think it's typically the first thing to die in the clutch).

Riding the clutch is by far the best way to kill a clutch quickly. Keeping one's foot off of the clutch pedal when not using it is important.

The advice to not hit the gas when starting out from a stop until the clutch is engaged strikes me as rather impractical under many conditions, particularly with a little engine that has very little torque at idle. It might be a reasonable training exercise on level ground (like a parking lot), but I can't see it working for everyday driving, and definitely not when performing a hill start. The general concept is more or less sound, though, provided you don't compensate by slipping the clutch for a long time while starting out.

Engine braking makes a lot of sense on long downhills, where you can put the car in a lower gear (and leave it there for some time) rather than constantly using the brakes. On long enough hills, not doing so can be a safety issue (due to brakes overheating and losing effectiveness). For typical driving around town, I agree that engine braking is of little overall value.

 

Not true.

The only time a throwout bearing is turning, is when the clutch pedal is pressed. It pushes on the clutch release levers, on the clutch pressure plate, which is bolted to the flywheel. Thus, if the pedal is pushed down, on the spinning clutch, the bearing is turning.
When sitting at a light, it is worthwhile to put it in neutral, and let the clutch out.
The transmission turning has nothing to do with the throwout bearing.

 

skip the mobil1 recommendations, and exange for OEM filter and drain plug washer. Its $6 for those two items after taxes near me.

Go for motor oil designed for high mileage vehicles. it has more zinc and phosphorous, which is great for longterm lubrication and fights against oil break down

 

Having done some more research on the subject, lo and behold I discover that you're quite right and I was mistaken about the details of how a clutch is assembled. Thanks for setting me straight. I had been wrongly thinking that the pressure plate was attached to the transmission shaft, rather than the flywheel.

(It does seem that there's some general consensus, though not complete agreement, that holding the clutch in at stop signs and red lights doesn't wear the bearing enough to cause trouble, but rather premature throw-out bearing failure comes from either riding the clutch, having the lubrication dry out, or having the bearing contaminated by something.)

 

is this your first car?

 

Good on DrewE manning up and learning from the experience. Tried to give you a hit but must pass it around first.

 

Good point and I agree.

I am willing to spend $2 more for a M1 filter (~$4 more a year I can live with), from everything I have read they are slightly better.
I thought the M1 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy oil was the best for this car. Do they even make 0W20 for high mileage cars?

No, not my first. It is my first that is this new though.

 

I was taught to not touch the clutch pedal OR the gear lever unless shifting. Musta worked, since I had a 90 Geo Prizm I kept for 17 years, never needed clutch or tranny work.