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Struts - Rear Shocks Replacement 2010 Fit

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  #1  
Old 04-22-2016, 10:57 AM
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Thumbs up Struts - Rear Shocks Replacement 2010 Fit

I replaced the struts and rear shocks on my Honda 2010 Fit. I used KYB parts from Tire Rack. The replacement went without incident. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I grew up on a farm with tools and engines. I bought the service manual from Helm and the Haynes book and both were invaluable. Replace the stabilizer links at the same time and you won't get annoying clicking sounds when you're done! Make sure you get the special tools to remove the cowl (5 pc. No-Scratch Tools for Removing Fastener & Molding by Neiko from Amazon). Lock the strut in a bench vise on a work bench securely and tighten the spring compressor 1/2 turn on each side by hand, don't use an air impact wrench unless you like living dangerously. When removing compression, also 1/2 turn on each side. The spring will lift off the bottom retainer plate when you have enough tension on the spring. Improper tightening of the spring compressor can cause injury or death! When replacing or removing the stabilizer link, make sure both front wheels are off the ground to remove tension from the sway bar. I used an air compressor and impact wrench. Also, a Dremel cut off wheel to cut frozen bolts off the top of the strut. And breaker bars! I used a length of water pipe on the 1/2 inch ratchet. That comes from living on a farm. Now the car handles like it did when it was new. I saved about $900 over the quotes I got from the local shops. It took about 2 days. And there's a great sense of satisfaction upon completing a job of this magnitude successfully, not to mention a great handling car!
 
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by John Dalnes
I replaced the struts and rear shocks on my Honda 2010 Fit. I used KYB parts from Tire Rack. The replacement went without incident. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I grew up on a farm with tools and engines. I bought the service manual from Helm and the Haynes book and both were invaluable. Replace the stabilizer links at the same time and you won't get annoying clicking sounds when you're done! Make sure you get the special tools to remove the cowl (5 pc. No-Scratch Tools for Removing Fastener & Molding by Neiko from Amazon). Lock the strut in a bench vise on a work bench securely and tighten the spring compressor 1/2 turn on each side by hand, don't use an air impact wrench unless you like living dangerously. When removing compression, also 1/2 turn on each side. The spring will lift off the bottom retainer plate when you have enough tension on the spring. Improper tightening of the spring compressor can cause injury or death! When replacing or removing the stabilizer link, make sure both front wheels are off the ground to remove tension from the sway bar. I used an air compressor and impact wrench. Also, a Dremel cut off wheel to cut frozen bolts off the top of the strut. And breaker bars! I used a length of water pipe on the 1/2 inch ratchet. That comes from living on a farm. Now the car handles like it did when it was new. I saved about $900 over the quotes I got from the local shops. It took about 2 days. And there's a great sense of satisfaction upon completing a job of this magnitude successfully, not to mention a great handling car!
Was it real easy to replace the rear shocks? Are they just lift the rear, un-bolt, put the new shock in and re-fasten? I've read through the spring DIY on the forums, but it went into a lot detail that I don't think was needed, since I would be keeping the stock springs.
 
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:31 AM
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It's almost a trivial task. Unless you are changing from OEM specs to air shocks or more lift. I followed the service manual. There are 7 steps in the Haynes manual and none of them are unnecessary. There's a jack point right in the center of the rear of the car, a small rectangle that you can get to with a floor jack. Then use jack stands to support the car because you will need the floor jack to lift the shock absorber slightly to remove it. Since the top bolt is inside the car, it should be easy to remove, just use a hex wrench to hold the bolt.
 
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:34 AM
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1 Raise the car and support it with jack stands, then remove the wheel
2 Support the rear axle beam with a floor jack under coil spring pocket
3 Remove access panel in the luggage compartment and remove upper mounting nut
4 Unscrew shock absorber lower mounting bolt and remove shock
Installation is revers
 
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by John Dalnes
It's almost a trivial task. Unless you are changing from OEM specs to air shocks or more lift. I followed the service manual. There are 7 steps in the Haynes manual and none of them are unnecessary. There's a jack point right in the center of the rear of the car, a small rectangle that you can get to with a floor jack. Then use jack stands to support the car because you will need the floor jack to lift the shock absorber slightly to remove it. Since the top bolt is inside the car, it should be easy to remove, just use a hex wrench to hold the bolt.
Thanks. To clarify, the unnecessary steps I refer to are called out in the DIY in these forums (cutting bump stops, etc.) for changing springs, not what is called out in the manual when keeping stock springs.
 
  #6  
Old 04-22-2016, 11:36 AM
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The struts are difficult, especially removing the upper cowl. While you are in their you might want to change the spark plugs!
 
  #7  
Old 04-22-2016, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by John Dalnes
The struts are difficult, especially removing the upper cowl. While you are in their you might want to change the spark plugs!
Yeah, I am pretty sure I can handle the rear shocks with no problem. I'm not so sure I want to do the front struts myself. Thanks again for your help.
 
  #8  
Old 04-22-2016, 11:54 AM
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I would not recommend using the spring compression tool unless one has some automotive repair experience, since improper usage can cause injury or death! All the you tube videos stress this safety issue. But if a brake job seems routine, changing struts should not be a problem. Now that I've done it once, it doesn't seem that hard, but looking at the upper cowl removal was a bit daunting. Now I know why the shops charge $1200!
 
  #9  
Old 04-22-2016, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by John Dalnes
I would not recommend using the spring compression tool unless one has some automotive repair experience, since improper usage can cause injury or death! All the you tube videos stress this safety issue. But if a brake job seems routine, changing struts should not be a problem. Now that I've done it once, it doesn't seem that hard, but looking at the upper cowl removal was a bit daunting. Now I know why the shops charge $1200!
If you replace the strut/spring assembly, with a pre-assembled strut/spring combo, is a compression tool even needed?
 
  #10  
Old 04-22-2016, 12:44 PM
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Have you compared prices? The KYB strut is $100, the assembly is $500 or more
 
  #11  
Old 04-22-2016, 12:57 PM
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Not really, but I know I can get an entire coilover set for around $700-900 range, which sounds like it might be a better deal and easier install.
 
  #12  
Old 04-22-2016, 01:00 PM
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I paid $200 for all the parts, both sides. Not a better deal at all unless you don't want to use the spring compression tool. It's reasonably safe if you take your time and don't use an air impact wrench.
 
  #13  
Old 04-22-2016, 01:01 PM
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I could have paid $1200 and let somebody else do it. I saved $900 which is the point. Saving money.
 
  #14  
Old 04-22-2016, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by John Dalnes
I could have paid $1200 and let somebody else do it. I saved $900 which is the point. Saving money.
I don't disagree. I guess I should have added that I was looking at upgrading the springs as well. If I can buy an entire coilover kit for ~$700-900 than I just saved money as well, plus not have to deal with a spring compression tool. Not as much as just struts/shocks, like you, but still cheaper.
 
  #15  
Old 08-07-2016, 01:45 PM
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strange gap under damper mounting base of front strut

I just replaced the front struts on my 2008 honda fit. Was easier than i thought, especially considering the cost estimates i got, $1100 - $1500. Did have to also replace the stabilizer link ends, $30 each. After completing the job i noticed a strange gap under the hood between the strut damper mounting base (which is a big round rubber washer that has square nobs on it) and the car body. Space was about 1/8 inch. To fix that i purchased the monroe strutmate mounting kit 906965 from advance automotive, $30 each side. Had to remove the struts a second time and compress spring again to install the kit which includes damper mounting bearing and damper mounting cushion. Result was the space was removed and the car drives great. Think the space was caused by wear in the bearing and damper cushion. Next time i will replace everything at the same time.
 
  #16  
Old 01-12-2017, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by John Dalnes
1 Raise the car and support it with jack stands, then remove the wheel
2 Support the rear axle beam with a floor jack under coil spring pocket
3 Remove access panel in the luggage compartment and remove upper mounting nut
4 Unscrew shock absorber lower mounting bolt and remove shock
Installation is revers
Thanks. I moved across country with everything I own in my fit and it destroyed the suspension. I ordered new shocks but haven't had any luck finding a video that shows how to replace them. I've done enough work on trucks and Jeeps to know that I can do it and that I need something to follow. Since I live now in a housing complex I can't have the Fit up on blocks while I figure out what to do next. This sounds really easy. What size sockets do I need?
 
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