Struts - Rear Shocks Replacement 2010 Fit
#1
Struts - Rear Shocks Replacement 2010 Fit
I replaced the struts and rear shocks on my Honda 2010 Fit. I used KYB parts from Tire Rack. The replacement went without incident. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I grew up on a farm with tools and engines. I bought the service manual from Helm and the Haynes book and both were invaluable. Replace the stabilizer links at the same time and you won't get annoying clicking sounds when you're done! Make sure you get the special tools to remove the cowl (5 pc. No-Scratch Tools for Removing Fastener & Molding by Neiko from Amazon). Lock the strut in a bench vise on a work bench securely and tighten the spring compressor 1/2 turn on each side by hand, don't use an air impact wrench unless you like living dangerously. When removing compression, also 1/2 turn on each side. The spring will lift off the bottom retainer plate when you have enough tension on the spring. Improper tightening of the spring compressor can cause injury or death! When replacing or removing the stabilizer link, make sure both front wheels are off the ground to remove tension from the sway bar. I used an air compressor and impact wrench. Also, a Dremel cut off wheel to cut frozen bolts off the top of the strut. And breaker bars! I used a length of water pipe on the 1/2 inch ratchet. That comes from living on a farm. Now the car handles like it did when it was new. I saved about $900 over the quotes I got from the local shops. It took about 2 days. And there's a great sense of satisfaction upon completing a job of this magnitude successfully, not to mention a great handling car!
#2
I replaced the struts and rear shocks on my Honda 2010 Fit. I used KYB parts from Tire Rack. The replacement went without incident. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I grew up on a farm with tools and engines. I bought the service manual from Helm and the Haynes book and both were invaluable. Replace the stabilizer links at the same time and you won't get annoying clicking sounds when you're done! Make sure you get the special tools to remove the cowl (5 pc. No-Scratch Tools for Removing Fastener & Molding by Neiko from Amazon). Lock the strut in a bench vise on a work bench securely and tighten the spring compressor 1/2 turn on each side by hand, don't use an air impact wrench unless you like living dangerously. When removing compression, also 1/2 turn on each side. The spring will lift off the bottom retainer plate when you have enough tension on the spring. Improper tightening of the spring compressor can cause injury or death! When replacing or removing the stabilizer link, make sure both front wheels are off the ground to remove tension from the sway bar. I used an air compressor and impact wrench. Also, a Dremel cut off wheel to cut frozen bolts off the top of the strut. And breaker bars! I used a length of water pipe on the 1/2 inch ratchet. That comes from living on a farm. Now the car handles like it did when it was new. I saved about $900 over the quotes I got from the local shops. It took about 2 days. And there's a great sense of satisfaction upon completing a job of this magnitude successfully, not to mention a great handling car!
#3
It's almost a trivial task. Unless you are changing from OEM specs to air shocks or more lift. I followed the service manual. There are 7 steps in the Haynes manual and none of them are unnecessary. There's a jack point right in the center of the rear of the car, a small rectangle that you can get to with a floor jack. Then use jack stands to support the car because you will need the floor jack to lift the shock absorber slightly to remove it. Since the top bolt is inside the car, it should be easy to remove, just use a hex wrench to hold the bolt.
#4
1 Raise the car and support it with jack stands, then remove the wheel
2 Support the rear axle beam with a floor jack under coil spring pocket
3 Remove access panel in the luggage compartment and remove upper mounting nut
4 Unscrew shock absorber lower mounting bolt and remove shock
Installation is revers
2 Support the rear axle beam with a floor jack under coil spring pocket
3 Remove access panel in the luggage compartment and remove upper mounting nut
4 Unscrew shock absorber lower mounting bolt and remove shock
Installation is revers
#5
It's almost a trivial task. Unless you are changing from OEM specs to air shocks or more lift. I followed the service manual. There are 7 steps in the Haynes manual and none of them are unnecessary. There's a jack point right in the center of the rear of the car, a small rectangle that you can get to with a floor jack. Then use jack stands to support the car because you will need the floor jack to lift the shock absorber slightly to remove it. Since the top bolt is inside the car, it should be easy to remove, just use a hex wrench to hold the bolt.
#7
Yeah, I am pretty sure I can handle the rear shocks with no problem. I'm not so sure I want to do the front struts myself. Thanks again for your help.
#8
I would not recommend using the spring compression tool unless one has some automotive repair experience, since improper usage can cause injury or death! All the you tube videos stress this safety issue. But if a brake job seems routine, changing struts should not be a problem. Now that I've done it once, it doesn't seem that hard, but looking at the upper cowl removal was a bit daunting. Now I know why the shops charge $1200!
#9
I would not recommend using the spring compression tool unless one has some automotive repair experience, since improper usage can cause injury or death! All the you tube videos stress this safety issue. But if a brake job seems routine, changing struts should not be a problem. Now that I've done it once, it doesn't seem that hard, but looking at the upper cowl removal was a bit daunting. Now I know why the shops charge $1200!
#12
I paid $200 for all the parts, both sides. Not a better deal at all unless you don't want to use the spring compression tool. It's reasonably safe if you take your time and don't use an air impact wrench.
#14
I don't disagree. I guess I should have added that I was looking at upgrading the springs as well. If I can buy an entire coilover kit for ~$700-900 than I just saved money as well, plus not have to deal with a spring compression tool. Not as much as just struts/shocks, like you, but still cheaper.
#15
strange gap under damper mounting base of front strut
I just replaced the front struts on my 2008 honda fit. Was easier than i thought, especially considering the cost estimates i got, $1100 - $1500. Did have to also replace the stabilizer link ends, $30 each. After completing the job i noticed a strange gap under the hood between the strut damper mounting base (which is a big round rubber washer that has square nobs on it) and the car body. Space was about 1/8 inch. To fix that i purchased the monroe strutmate mounting kit 906965 from advance automotive, $30 each side. Had to remove the struts a second time and compress spring again to install the kit which includes damper mounting bearing and damper mounting cushion. Result was the space was removed and the car drives great. Think the space was caused by wear in the bearing and damper cushion. Next time i will replace everything at the same time.
#16
1 Raise the car and support it with jack stands, then remove the wheel
2 Support the rear axle beam with a floor jack under coil spring pocket
3 Remove access panel in the luggage compartment and remove upper mounting nut
4 Unscrew shock absorber lower mounting bolt and remove shock
Installation is revers
2 Support the rear axle beam with a floor jack under coil spring pocket
3 Remove access panel in the luggage compartment and remove upper mounting nut
4 Unscrew shock absorber lower mounting bolt and remove shock
Installation is revers
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