I'm a complete noob when it comes to rims and need some advice.

I've been running the stock 15" steelies with OEM tires until the beginning of this winter when the original Dunlop all seasons had worn out at 61 K km (38 K miles).
I replaced them with Blizzak WS80's as winter tires (stock size 175/65/R15).
The plan was to get alloy rims for new all season tires in the spring, so that it's easy to switch them around every winter.

In 2-3 weeks I'm expecting to make this switch - already ordered a set of Ecopia 422plus 175/65/R15 from Costco. I'm a bit of a hypermiler, so all about the fuel mileage; don't care about looks, or cornering speed. I want to put them on a pair of alloy rims I've recently picked-up used for an amazing bargain. These are old Honda rims (date stamp Oct 2000) and I only looked for radius, width and bolt pattern. Being such a noob, I didn't even know about offset. These rims are 15x6 JJ 55.

Does anyone know if the 55 offset will cause any problems with my 2nd gen Fit?
What about the JJ designation?

I've searched around the forum and all I've found so far has been quite lower with the most common being +40 and 45 offset. I've also noticed the cool kids wants even lower offsets so the wheels stick out.

Does this mean that 55 offset will keep the wheels more on the inside?

Since I'm on a budget, I want to take these rims to Costo in 2-3 weeks and have them install the new tires. They're certainly not experts and probably won't have any spacers or other accessories that might be necessary.

Is there anything I should get before I go down to Costco? Spacers? New wheel nuts?

Much appreciated,

 

So I found this online:





Based on your new tire and wheel setup compared to a base 2012 Fit the wheel will be 5mm closer to the strut. If I compare it to the Sport model with a 6.5" wide rim and 45mm offset than the wheel will only be 3.6mm closer to the strut. My guess is there's enough clearance? You should take a quick visual while your car is sitting on the ground to see how much room is between the tire and the strut currently. Personally, I'd like to see about 10mm to take in account tire flex while cornering after install. Again if you have 15mm currently between the tire and the strut then you're probably OK.

Before you have your tires mounted, install a wheel on the car. You also need to check clearance between the wheel and brake caliper. The Fit has pretty wimpy brakes, so I might be OK? Some wheels have thick spokes or ones that are completely vertical and don't allow much caliper clearance or thick rim section that might not allow enough diameter for the top of the caliper. That's why not all wheels fit (no pun intended) all cars. Two other things you need to look for is hub diameter and what type of seating surface for the lug nuts. Some are conical and some are a ball seat. Mixing the two together could result in a failure. Pretty sure you don't want your wheel flying off at 60 MPH? Maybe your amazing deal is amazing, maybe they were priced because they don't fit anything other than a 17 year old car?

BTW: It's wheel diameter, not radius.

Here's a website I frequently use that might help in future purchases or modifications

Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit

BTW since you're obsessed with fuel economy , yours might change going to an overall smaller diameter setup and probably not for the better?

I just reread your post. Do not go anything larger than a 3mm spacer with stock wheel studs. You will most likely have a failure. Again wheel flying off. Wheel spacers are not the proper way to achieve clearance. Sell your wheels and buy something that fits properly if you need more strut to tire clearance. If you insist on going the spacer route, Honda's quest to save weight makes my car look like the wheel studs are shorter than normal? A general rule of thumb is you need 1.5 times the diameter of the wheel stud for thread engagement of the lug nut or basically 18mm. You should check that regardless of using a spacer or not. Keep in mind I'm not a professional so don't take my recommendations, seek professional advice when installing anything other than original equipment to your vehicle.

Good luck

 

Only use hub centric spacers and wheels (H&R) on a Honda/Acura,, they don't like Lug centric wheel in general. At least that been my experience..

 

One factory size are the 16x6 et53 with 185/55/16 tires.

Your planned size is a 15x6 et55 with 175/65/15 tires. (Note the JJ designation has to do with the wheel flange cross section and is not a sizing consideration.)

Offset is the distance from the mounting surface (where the wheel meets the hub) and the wheel centerline. Increasing positive values mean the center line is moving more inboard. When compared to the factory sport wheel, you've moved the wheel more inboard by 2 mm or less than 1/10 of an inch. That's essentially nothing, however your wheel is a 15" diameter and not a 16". Depending on the way the strut is angled, that may make a difference. As suggested, just test fit a wheel without tire on the front. If there is no interference with the strut or brakes, you should be good to go with the desired tires. Based on the tire size you shouldn't see any rubbing elsewhere.

In the event you do have wheel interference, you'll need some kind of spacer and potentially longer lug bolts. When those are required you probably just destroyed the great deal you got on them.

 

Thank you all for the advice.

Is there a way to confirm if these 2000 Honda rims are hub centric without installing them?

I found a video to explain the difference between hub centric and lug centric rims, but I still can't tell what mine are:


Edit:

I think I figured it out. Measured the bore diameter to about 61-63 mm, and noticed that OEM center bore is 56.1 mm.

So I will need hub centric rings, right?
Do I need to buy these ahead of time, or would a place like Costo have them?

Thanks

 

I can almost guarantee they are hub-centric wheel. Basically if the car came from the factory with wheel bolts, you're almost assured the wheels are hub centric. The real question is what is the diameter of the center bore. The center bore of the wheel must be at least big enough to fit over the hub. If it's bigger then the hub you'll need centering rings. I wouldn't get too worked up. I think Honda used the same center bore for all their 4x100 wheels.

Do you know what model the wheels came from? Is there a part number cast into the wheel? Honda PN's look like this 76620-TK6-A01. See if there are anything with this format cast in the wheels.

 

BTW, that video is incorrect about "all the weight" sitting on the hub vs lugs. The hub never carries any of the load once the lug nuts/bolts are tightened up. All the center bore does is provide initial positioning. That's the entire reason hub-centric exists.

 

Places like Costco are big box stores that happen to sell tire. It they have hub centric rings I'd be surprised? You'd have to go to a real tire store and have items like that ordered for you. There are way too many hub bore diameters. My guess is whit only 5-7 mm difference in bore diameter you might not be able to find any? Most aftermarket wheels usually have a large center bore like 73.1 mm to accommodate many cars, hence the centering rings.

BTW: The centering rings just make wheel installation easier.

 

Unfortunately Honda changed the hub diameter. The 2000 Honda rims I've measured at around 62-63mm hub (maybe I'm a bit off since I used a measuring tape) and the specs say OEM hub for Honda Fit 2nd gen is 56.1 mm.

Was looking on Amazon for some hub rings, but can't find the proper size - all I see is 56.1 x 60 and 56.1 x 66.1:




Also found some spacers to help with the high offset:

3 mm thick:



and 5 mm thick:


What do you guys think? Should I get these?





The only serial number I've found on the inside of the rim is " S82 460 ". Tried several Google searches of this, adding Honda, or Honda rims beside it, but didn't find absolutely anything...

 

You have already bought the wheels and have the tires ordered. Just wait then til you get them on. You will likely be OK. Have them do a front one first.

I do feel your pain though. I bought a set of after market wheels with tires and went through buying rings and still had a terrible vibration. I dumped them and my current Rotas work just fine at a +40 and occasional rub.

Where O Canada?

bill