The door jam label indicate 32 psi Front, 33 psi rear. I find that to be a little soft. I am currently running at 35 psi all around.

anyone else running theirs according to factory recommended settings?

I plan to run it at 35psi front, and 36 psi rear to see how it affects handling.

 

I'm running 35 front 30 rear and have 16K miles and they are wearing very evenly

 

Please search before starting new threads on talked about items....

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...pressures.html

 

That statement would make a great sticky in each forum header.

 

We need to get rid of a bunch of other stickes/etc... at the top before adding more. There should be a sign-up "quiz" which includes all of the rules/regs and has a few questions including "is searching for posts good before posting a new topic?" Y/N. That would cut down on the need for a bunch of the useless "announcements" and stickies. It's annoying to have to scroll down just to see the 1st new post.

~SB

 

Not sure if a 'quiz' would work, but encouraging reply's to get folks to search might. There is a whole lot of spoon feeding here. I like it when those who do respond include a link to one of there own prior posts.

Mostly it's the first timers - gotta get 'em young to train them right_

I'm still working my way through the ton of "Stickies". Not sure but many seem to not even get the sticky concept.

I've learned to use the "New Posts" link in the page header. Saves me a ton of time and I have a simple email account I go to every morning to see replies to my subscribed threads, could do it in my CP but I like the email way better. And I search by posts, not threads. About the only way I scan the forum any more.

 

I've found that 35 front / 30 rear is a great combo. Still neutral, but with a lot of grip. Your plans to up the rear to higher than the fronts will create more oversteer, but in reality, I've found that I can mash the go pedal a little earlier and have the rear stick and adjust to bumpy road surfaces better. I'd say I'm faster with the rear 5 lbs. lower.

 

Back on topic - I'm running door jamb pressures on the OEM Dunlop's and all seems good. I will be up-grading the tires when the time comes, but I've found the Dunlop breaks in to be a not so bad tire - a bit hard/noisy on the ride but perfectly acceptable.

 

Same here on the pressures. That's an astute observation on tire "break-in." I've noticed that ours feels better now (25K miles) than when new. Think that's the tires or just the whole suspension wearing in?

 

I think some of you are forgetting that there are two types of pressures. Hot and cold. If you run on 35 PSI cold, once you get the tires warmed up, you're probably going to be running at around 40 PSI, which is too high.

 

I am thinking of getting a set of potenzas summer tires and a seperate set of rims. probably ~ $800 total.

 

How do you figure?

 

Check your tires cold and then later hot. No need to figure.

As someone fairly conscientious about checking their pressure I let mine go a couple months. They were down to 29.5 cold (in Hotlanta!). After returning them to the recommended pressure handling improved. Mileage may even have improved a little (wishful thinking anyway).

Always check your tires cold (problematic as driving to an air pump will heat them and raise the pressure). Check before you leave in the morning and fill according to how low they were at that time. Better yet, keep a small pump at home.

If not sure, it's better to be over inflated than under inflated. Just don't get carried away. Tires are there to cushion your car. Rock hard solid rubber was the fashion 100 years ago. Correctly inflated tires grip the road better. Radial-ply tires are designed to flex and roll the tread so more tire remains n contact with the road in turns than bias-ply tires (as if anyone remembers using those!) At normal speeds over-inflating won't save you fuel (air resistance counts for much more).

 

but is 40psi hot, and how hot is hot? How hot can hot get and how cold is cold? Is it too cold, not cold enough, or just right. Why don't they say room temperature?

Seriously though, 40 hot is not too much. It's the cold psi that's important because underinflation will damage the tire and inflating to 50psi will not.

 

Cold means before you drive it. Hot means after you've been driving - no use splitting hairs - think about it.

Inflating to 50psi is simply crazy, 40psi is nuts. You certainly can, but show me any reputable source that even comes close to recommending it. You will discover that 2-3psi above the manufacturer's recommendation is all you will find.

Not sure what people think they're going to gain?

K_C_

 

I had the notion that lower pressure is better upfront in a FWD for handling. Under that notion, I am 36 front, 38 rear.

 

"Better" will be up to the driver, but you are adjusting the balance of the grip. Your tires are a part of your suspension, and going that high in the rear with no weight over it, then you are probably adversely effecting the handling, not just the grip, of the car. The balance.

Try 35 front 30 rear. The reason the door sticker (cold pressures btw) says to go evenly is due to the possibility of carrying cargo in the rear. At some point, you are also going to lose some of your contact patch when going with high pressure. I'd back it off personally. Especially with higher spring rates and stock shocks. It seems like the ride quality would suck. Are you skipping at all in the turns or feeling a lot of modulation as grip builds up and gets lost again?

 

YUP! NASCAR takes this approach to a whole new level.

 

Are those readings cold or hot?

 

They are cold readings (if by cold you mean while the car has sat, it's by no means cold in Texas). 40 is the max PSI recommendation, but it also says do not inflate over 51 PSI.

I have not noticed any skipping in the rear, even when I had all rear seats, spare tire, and jack removed with aggressive driving.

EDIT: Curious, what settings in your opinion, would be best for tracking?