I thought the exh. manifold was integrated into the head...if that is true, this isn't a header.

Please do explain

 

It's a down pipe, cat delete. WeaponR calls it a header, however.

 

And after I took all that time to write 'header' with ' '

Arguably the first 3 inches of it are the tail en of a header as the cast in manifold only goes from 8 to 4 and the top of the cat is the 4 to 1.

 

I think the resonated cat delete on my car made a bigger difference than the header or 2.5" B-Pipe and axle back with resonator and 2540i AeroTurbine muffler... I went with an Apexi Exhaust Control Valve as a means of controlling the excessive noise.... I am beyond impressed with what all you are doing and the results of it all so far... I know there is likely to be a lot more to come at the rate you have been going lately.

 

For Sale now that I'm turbo:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post951510

 

I am still in awe that you were able to work things out so quickly.

 

That is definitely impressive.

He announced his plans on 11/20 and by Jan 1 he was essentially done and running.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...rbo-plans.html

 

Would never have happened without you dsm. A series of hunches, DSMs prodding and 100+ hours research made it happen.

I am so pissed right now though, spent an hour writting up my build thread, and whole damn thing got deleted.

 

im running a greddy tic on my car, you think the weapon r would make it sound BEAST ? =]

 

Ill let you know in a week when I have it all installed and I have a custom b pipe with no resonator so it should sound pretty ridiculous... I do hope its not to loud though otherwise ill toss the stock muffler back on to bring the dbs down

 

What is the pipe diameter difference between the weapon R and stock?

 

I really want thus header or down pipe it whatever but the thing holding me back is the fact you guys day it sounds rice....I don't Wagtail it to sound rice that's why..

 

If you don't want to sound like rice you can add a second stock ID resonator after your stock or aftermarket b-pipe. After the second resonator you can run a larger diameter straight pipe to a nice tip. The type of metal you choose and the way you connect/clamp it and then secure it will also change the tone depending on how stiff everything is.

V-band clamp it if you are going to make your own exhaust collect the parts and take them to a muffler shop. You can have a nice custom exhaust on a budget this way. This will make for a nice deep and relatively soft note, kind of like a well muffled V8 "burble" and it won't drive you insane on the highway.

If you want something slicker than that maybe you could PM Texas Coyote, if you are nice he might be able to give you a few pointers.

Probably the nicest trick exhaust setup on any GD I've come across!

The other reason I recommend this approach for NA guys is because when you leave the stock b-pipe and then use a stock ID resonator you are still maintaining the majority of your back pressure where needed... at the header. The lack of a stock muffler should allow for better breathing up top as well.

On a turbo fit I would just go straight off the turbine discharge with the biggest downpipe you could fit back there, 3" if possible resonate and muffle it. I would also have my Front O2, Wideband and EGT sensor housing seperate and v-band clamped to the rest of the downpipe. So in the event I need to work on it or upgrade the turbo I can have a new Oxygen sensor housing made and not need to get a whole new downpipe.

If you decide you need the blingin-est most overkill nice exhaust in the world. Call a group like Shearer, JMF, Full-Race or Thermal Research and Development.

You want Ceramic coated Ti 4" hood discharged exhaust and hood dumped external wastegates?

 

 

any idea how much weight is saved? I'm really thinking of doing this mod if there's significant weight saved

 

If it sounds loud as hell and runs really fast it isn't going to be considered rice... If it works out that way and you wan't to avoid getting hassled install an Apexi exhaust control valve somewhere in the B pipe or axle back and you can adjust the flow and volume from the drivers seat... Having it closed around town actually gives you a little better low end torque up to just under 4000 RPM and 2/3 closed cuts down on the droning sound and buzzing interior plastic noises between 3000 and 4000 RPM on the highway... It's crazy how quiet a straight through exhaust on a Fit at 1/2 throttle at 95 TO 100 MPH, but between 60 and 80 at 25% to 40% it sounds horrible.

 

I've got Tuesday Wednesday off. I'm gunna do the install then and post some sound clips. Girlfriend just came back in town so Tuesday might be busy lol. Ill at least get down there and see what it looks like shouldn't take to long to install

 

Hmmm I'm interested in buying some headers, I just bought a used week old mugen exhaust (GE8). I to am concerned with the "ricer" noise, would this make more noise if I combine?
Also, I live in the TX, as far as inspection is concerned would this be able to pass? I know this is a noob question, please pm me if you can cuz I'd like to know.

 

nice write up

 

I'm in the process of buying a weaponR headers for my ge8. I have some questions though.. And sorry for opening this old thread btw

What is the difference between the Race and Street headers in terms of how it looks like? Can someone post a picture of both headers.

Is there really a chance of CEL to appear when you use a WR race/ street headers?

Do you feel vibrations underneath the car during idle/high revs?

The so called "popping" sound or backfire or whatever, does the so called sound becomes louder when you install the headers using a stock midpipe and aftermarket exhaust or it really depends on your midpipe setup (for example removing the oem resonator or changing to a bigger pipe diameter. What's causing it to Pop? The cat converter removal?

Do you really need to have the car tuned or do you really need to use a piggyback to elimitate the loud popping sound it creates after the installation?

Is there a fitment issue? Looks like the Wr is shorter than oem.

I'm using an n1 hks high power exhaust, are you goin to suggest to use a different exhaust or should i stick to it?

Lastly, is it worth buying? For the price and the performance gain it provides? I mean is it a good upgrade for the ge8?