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Subwoofer Install

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  #1  
Old 02-10-2011, 04:56 PM
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Subwoofer Install

Waz up guys! Hey I just bought a 10 inch Kicker subwoofer with an 800 watt Pioneer amp. I also have an enclosure. I want to install this woofer in my 2009 Honda Fit Sport. Can you guys link me to any tutorials that have been posted that would explain how to do this? I would like to do this myself but I just can't find the right thread. I also need to buy all the wires but I think I can go to Best Buy for that. Thanks for your help!

I have these:

Kicker - CompVR 10" Dual-Voice-Coil 2-Ohm Subwoofer - CVR102

Walmart.com: Pioneer Class-D Mono 800W Amplifier: Auto Electronics

Fierce Audio - XED 10" Single Ported Subwoofer Enclosure - PSP110.1
 
  #2  
Old 02-10-2011, 07:10 PM
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whatsup fellow georgian.

I did a install on my fit sport not too long ago. It's not that hard.

You can get wiring kit, everything you need from Dynamic Sound Located by Norcross, Georgia. 1hr drive from you? for around 10$. And you will also need hi/low freq remote also which they also sell for 5$ or something. If your using stock headunit.

The job is pretty straight forward. If you have basic knowledge.

-Remove your headunit. ( very easy to do. unscrew one screw holding it and rest is clip)

- Install low/high freq remote. Run wires to the trunk

- Wire one of the wire from the battery to your trunk.

- Wire one of the wire from your headunit to the trunk. ( remote wire so the amp turns on when you turn on the car.) I forgot which wire i tapped into, but if you search, you should find the right resource. because thats how i found it.

- Rest is straight forward. Hook up battery powered wire to the amp. Hook up ground to ground. Hook up the wires from the low/high freq to the amp. and rest to your sub.

Sorry about the broad explanation, if you have any question lmk. I can send you pictures where i ran my wires through and stuff so it will give you a better understanding.
 
  #3  
Old 02-10-2011, 10:20 PM
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run the remote wire to your radio in your fuse box.
 
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:20 PM
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thanks for your help man. I was looking online and got discouraged. I think I'll try it myself. Do you think the stock battery can handle what I bought?
 
  #5  
Old 02-11-2011, 12:06 AM
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Here's what I used to guide me along in my install (credit to original members)

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...k-install.html

and for wiring (i used stock h.u.)

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...rt-wiring.html

hope this helps!

Also I think you should be fine with the stock battery as the amp looks like it'll pull 40-50 amps max, and running with the 2 ohm subwoofer it'll be pushing 400 watts rms so you should be fine. It is never a bad idea to upgrade eventually though, our factory batteries are nothing to brag about lol
 

Last edited by flip; 02-11-2011 at 12:11 AM. Reason: added info
  #6  
Old 02-11-2011, 12:37 AM
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is there anything like this for the gd3?
 
  #7  
Old 02-11-2011, 11:59 AM
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Thanks FLIP!! My amp just arrived at the store. Imma go pick it up. Now all I need is the wiring. What kind of wires do I need? Imma go to a local store.
 
  #8  
Old 02-11-2011, 12:04 PM
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Very nice I lIke
 
  #9  
Old 02-12-2011, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by skeezy
Thanks FLIP!! My amp just arrived at the store. Imma go pick it up. Now all I need is the wiring. What kind of wires do I need? Imma go to a local store.
No problem! I would go with 6 gauge, 8 might be a little to small so for performance reasons I'd go with probably a 6 because 4 gauge gets hard to run to the back and hide, make sure you get your RCA's, ground, power, and speaker wire. Some people do this, some people don't but I recommend running the rca and power cables on opposite sides, just to be absolutely sure you don't get alternator whine or interference. My friends fit had the whine when he ran both down the drivers side, you could even faintly hear the horn honk through the speakers when he honked it lol. and DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY when you work on the stereo...
 
  #10  
Old 02-12-2011, 01:36 AM
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And just fyi. your headunit will lock when you turn the battery off. for security reason it will tell you to enter the pass word.

the pass word is in your glovebock. should be a sticker with numbers on it.
you don't have to go to the dealer to have it unlocked, like many thinks.
 
  #11  
Old 02-12-2011, 11:54 AM
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kento man I forgot all about the head unit locking. I'll check my glove box for the numbers. thanks! I was trying to buy speaker wire last night and couldn't decide between 18 gauge and 16 gauge. Which one is better and which should I choose?
 
  #12  
Old 02-12-2011, 08:08 PM
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If the numbers arent on a sticker in your glove box, they should be in one of the small books that came with your owners manual, its in the maintenance book I think, mine was written on one of the pages by whoever did the "make ready" upon arrival at the dealership. As for the speaker wire : 16 gauge or larger.
 
  #13  
Old 02-14-2011, 01:23 AM
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so no one is going to answer my question?
 
  #14  
Old 02-14-2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jmag310
so no one is going to answer my question?
I don't know man. I was looking around and the search on the mobile version of this site keeps kicking me back to the same search screen.
 
  #15  
Old 02-14-2011, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jmag310
so no one is going to answer my question?
Sorry jmag here's the best I could stir up for ya:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-fit-usdm.html

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...lor-codes.html
 
  #16  
Old 02-15-2011, 08:02 PM
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One more question. Do I need a line out converter for the stock radio?
 
  #17  
Old 02-15-2011, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by skeezy
One more question. Do I need a line out converter for the stock radio?
Looking at that amp, you will need one because the stock Head unit has no Line level outputs (RCA) but only speaker wires. you'll have to tap into the speaker wire inputs with a line level converter so you can run RCA to the Amplifier.

The other option is to pick up an amp with speaker level inputs.

~SB

PS, I highly recommend picking up a "cap" (capacitor) for the system. Mine came in super handy in cold months when it would actually feed power back to the battery when turning over the car. Had a 7 yr old battery in my integra that honda at year 5 said was practically shot... the Cap gave it just enough juice to start the car in -10F weather with no issues. while driving, it helped drive my 5 channel amp and 2 10" subs.
 
  #18  
Old 02-17-2011, 12:00 AM
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thanks specboy! Imma install this shite tomorrow. Did you have the stock battery on your 5 channel amp and two 10 inch subs?
 
  #19  
Old 02-17-2011, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by skeezy
thanks specboy! Imma install this STUFF tomorrow. Did you have the stock battery on your 5 channel amp and two 10 inch subs?
[Edit for cardomain language]

Yup... it wasn't an overly powerful amp but I wasn't out to shatter the glass or break my eardrums either. my goal was full rich sound and the reason I had two subs was... they were buy one get one free. The amp I used was an infinity Kappa 255a 5-channel, the Subs were kappa 10.1se and I had kappa Components all the way around (front & Rear) for a total of 10 speakers. I believe the amp was pushing 450w. I ran the stock battery until I traded the car in 2007 (sigh), and the car had 80K+ miles on it. I swear the "lightning cap" made a world of difference in the cold winter months as I never once had a problem starting the car and more than once, the guys from Honda said the battery was on it's last legs at the 4 year mark.

I'm still debating what to do with the subs & amps (also have a kenwood 4 channel laying around). Do I want to build a box, raised floor like in the integra (Pics in on my CarDomain page through my sig pic.), or just sell it and put in a small powered sub. I think either way, I'll add the cap back in to the Fit just as auxiliary power so I don't get the headlight dimming when the AC compressor kicks on.

~SB
 

Last edited by specboy; 02-17-2011 at 07:22 AM.
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