Hi All -

I would like to preface this by saying that I searched the forums extensively for answers to my questions . Unfortunately, there isn't much on DIY coolant changing for the GE8.

I have 118K on my '09 Fit Sport. The number 5 came up in my maintenance minder, which means I finally have to change the coolant for the first time. The service manual tells me to drain the coolant from the radiator and then remove the block drain plug at the back of the block. The picture, which I posted below, makes it look very easy to get to (it isn't!). It is at least 6" further back than is indicated by the pic. I took the passenger front tire off to make it easier, but I just can't get the plug off. I can get to it with a mini-ratchet and a 19mm socket, but there isn't enough room in the area for me to turn it. So my questions are:

- Have you ever done a DIY coolant change on your GE8 Fit? If so, did you drain from the block plug? How did you manage to remove it?

- In addition to changing the coolant, I am going to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses. Do you think that the coolant drain from removing these hoses will suffice as a substitute for draining from the block plug?

Thanks for your help.

 

There is such a small amount of coolant in the fit system (compared to full size cars) that when you pull the hoses and drain the radiator there will be very little coolant left in the block.

Unless the coolant you drain looks like swamp water you should do fine without worrying about what is left in the block because the new stuff will mix with and dilute the old stuff in a few miles.

 

some different sized extensions and a universal joint for your ratchet might help. I'd probably obsess about it too, but I agree the little bit left in there shouldn't make a big difference.

I'd probably also bite the bullet and buy Honda's premix to replace what you take out.

Radiator hoses seem indestructible these days. I always questioned my Honda guru on the 97 I owned through 225K and he always shrugged and said they didn't need it. At 150K when I replaced the radiator, I wanted to replace the hoses and Honda said I'd have to special order them, so I skipped it. When I got rid of it at 12 years 225K the hoses were all pliable with no signs of degradation. And besides there are the heater hoses, throttle body hoses, etc. to obsess over. I wouldn't get over a good OCD fit without doing them all, so might as well leave them.

 

Thanks for the advice. I think that I am going to go ahead and leave the drain bolt on. My wife suggested just taking it to a Jiffy Lube place because they may have a special tool for this kind of thing, but instinct tells me that Jiffy Lube won't go the extra mile and remove that plug, either.

I did buy the type II coolant from Honda. The weird thing is that the specs call out for slightly more than 1 gallon of coolant, but the dealer parts guy told me that it will only take one (1) gallon bottle. I guess we shall see.

Regarding the hoses, I am just going on experience. I have had those radiator hoses blow out in every vehicle that I have ever owned (including a 2006 Toyota Echo), so I don't mess around. They don't blow holes anymore, but they do get soft enough around the intakes to slip off, regardless of the locking clamp strength. I do realize that there are other hoses (heater, etc..), but I have never had any problems with those other hoses on any car I have owned.

I bought goodyear replacements at Autozone.

 

I bought Oem coolant, Oem thermostat , im at 27 k gunna change it next week cuz ill have time and ill be off work and my son should be here by then

its a walk in the park just dnt for get to burb system

 

@rossftn,
Let us know how the coolant looks when you drain it.

I am used to draining/replacing the coolant at least once every 3 years to prevent rusting, and have hard time being convinced (yet) that Honda coolant will last up to 120K miles for initial change and then 60K after that (from severe maintenance schedule listed on the online manual).

 

Your wife is right, and they don't need to remove anything really. It uses suction provided by shop air and pulls it all out as it is circulating through the system. as soon as it's all out they just flip the flow and push the new stuff in. You could give them the Honda coolant to fill with, i'm not sure what they'd use for a Honda these days or if they just use generic green antifreeze. That'd be my concern. It's pretty hard to mess anything up with that machine but if you DO have any leaks in the system it will let you know right away because the hoses won't collapse.

Always best to DIY though if you have the time and know-how, will save you some cash and not that hard to do. Like has been said I wouldn't worry about draining the block either.

 

The old stuff looked just like the new stuff, just slightly darker. It looked really good.

 

Without removing the plug... what's the best/easiest way to replace the majority of the fluid?

 

Remove the petcock on the bottom of the radiator then take off the radiator cap. If you do it backward beware of the coolant coming out in a BIG stream. Ask me how I know LOL.

 

Remove the peacock but before you do try to get a funnel place on the inside of the splash guard, cause splash it will.

I've done mine 3x in 103k I did the first at 70k, but used some autozone stuff which I replaced at 80k after seeing how it rusts out pumps and radiators for Honda's.

Honda antifreeze drain and fill at 102k to make sure all remnants of AZ fluid was out.

 

This is very easy to do if you are in the proper place with the proper tools. You do not need to take any wheels off the car. You do need to take the plastic shroud off under the engine and into the wheel wells. It connects using approx 4 phillips head screws under the radiator and approx 10 fasteners with heads that need to be raised around 1/8" and then removed and later reused. The fasteners are under the radiator/bumper, in the wheel wells, and on a cross member behind the engine. They are easy to find. Shoot them with a little motor oil and either use a flat blade screwdriver or a special tool to raise the head to release the fastener.

Now get a 19 mm socket on an extension and your ratchet or breaker bar. Lie on a creeper under your car on the passenger side with head toward back and legs toward front. Reach up and feel for the 19 mm head and 28 mm circular body around it on the back of the engine, passenger side, above the transaxle. You must do it this way because you will not be able to see it, but it is within easy reach. Mine was easy to crack loose with a breaker bar. Make sure you drain the radiator first before removing the 19 mm bolt. Get a 90401-PR4-000 28 mm gasket (around $2.00) to replace the one you remove. You can probably reuse the one you remove, but why take a chance?

 

i did my 09's coolant drain/fill the other month. i only drained the radiator and im fine with it. i also swapped
the clamps using oem clams as they were pretty rusted on mine from the winter salt. i worried it might snap
sooner or later, but upon removing it from the hose, i found that despite the rust, the clamp was pretty solid.

but swapped it anyway.

 

Honda specifies that both the radiator and block must be drained, so they must think it is worth the extra work.

 

it's only one extra plug, you should do it if you want to. i personally only drained the radiator and im fine with it. i got about a gallon out which is plenty for a drain and fill.

 

My Fit is an '07. The block drain is practically impossible to access. I do a drain and fill (radiator drain only). Drive to mix. repeat a few hours to days later. This gives me a more complete change than if I had drained the radiator and block once.

 

yah, if you keep doing the drain and fill every 2-3yrs after the initial change i dont see it going bad just doing the radiator only. ive never drained the block on any of my cars while doing the coolant service.

 

Or you can pop off the cowel cover and get to it from top. Mine was really tight. Only around 16-20 oz of coolant comes out so probably not really necessary. I drained block and radiator. Took thermostat out filled with fresh coolant ran around the block then drained again. Put new thermostat/gasket in, refilled and good to go. Probably overkill but at least I know its completely changed with fresh 170 degree stant superstat

 

well 16oz is a decent amount to get rid of if your coolant is very old and discolored. i just never let my coolant get that old..

 

I was also confused by the drawing in the service manual.
This photo shows the bolt on my 2009 generation 2, as seen looking up and forward from just above the passenger-side half axle.