Motor Mount filling. The point of this mod is to increase engine and shifting responds. There are no motor or pitch mounts/ inserts on the market for the GE. This is an inexpensive and easy way to have some good results with out after market support.



Supplies:

I used 3M Windo-Weld 08609 from CarQuest. This is the most common urethane to use when doing motor mount filling $15-$20.



There is a product that lets you tailor the stiffness $28:

DIYMMI dSt Do It Yourself Motor Mount Inserts - Liquid Urethane



Removal:

Here is an exploded diagram; number 9 is the pitch mount that we are going to fill.


Green Arrow: Front of car
Yellow Arrow: Bolts needed to be removed


Remove the front bolt first, then the rear. Use a 17mm and 19mm socket to remove. Caution, you are working right next to the exhaust, IT'S VERY HOT.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure the MT transmission is in neutral, it will be easier to maneuver the engine assembly, especially when re-installing.

WARNING: Do not start engine or drive without pitch mount. You will do damage.



Pitch Mount Removed:

Note the "UP". The red arrows are the voids where the pitch mount will be filled.

Red Arrow: Filling area
Green Arrow: Front of car



Red Arrow: Filling area
Green Arrow: Front of car




Procedure:

Instructions: Lay down card board for a work surface. Tape off one side with duct tape, the start filling. You can use popsicle sticks to help fill. This MUST sit for 24 hours at least, regardless of published drying times. Leave in a warm, dry very well ventilated area. ie: In the garage on a 80+ degree day with a fan blowing on it to dry. Use rubber gloves when handling 3M Windo-Weld, this stuff is toxic and gets every where; it is very hard to get off.


1. Taped off one side



2. Taped off top view



3. After filling pitch mount spaces, DO NOT fill bolt hole!!!



4. Side view, Must dry for 24hrs out of car. (I let it dry for 36hrs, the longer the better)



5. After is has dried and the tape is taken off, this is what the bottom should look like, this is acceptable:




Result:

The 3M Window-Weld is soft enough that it does NOT cause vibrations. This mod is perfect for a daily driver and a track-day. The responds is instant and very noticeable. I would say this is a must-do-mod.

 

Done editing. I will post results asap.

 

Nice job on this DIY but wondering why you think it needs that long dry time?

 

Thanks LB. Great question. The reason is to be precautionary. The pitch mount filling depth is 2 in deep. On a separate piece of card board I made a test sample using the 3M W-W that I can prong and pierce. The out side dries very quickly and is deceiving. But the center is still liquid.

Can you see the pics ok?

 

Photos are working fine for me. Good to hear you did check the dry time with an experiment.

 

24 hours is a minimum because if its still wet or soft when you isntall it, the weight of the engien, and especially operation, will just purge the soft stuff out any crevice or hole not fully cured and money will be wasted

 

Good stuff...
Gonna buy a new piece, do the filling then change it for the one in the car
Can't wait

 

I purchased 3 replacement mounts from Alex Motorsports here in Tokyo, essentially the same thing, though not sure what the shop actually uses for fill. For those doing this, that mount that was filled, watch the thickness as the mount in stock form basically just fits into the stock crevice. I had a pain getting that mount back in, but after going at it for some time I was able to get it in.

With all 3 mounts done, I do have some vibrations, nothing annoying to myself, maybe the minor vibrations would annoy some, not really sure.

I will say the car's feeling is MUCH improved over stock and if you actually enjoy driving your car, this is a mod you should really look into.

 

I filled the other two mounts. Never
Wrote a diy. But I have pics on my build thread. The right side is liquid filled and needs to be drained and cleaned throughly.

 

Found some Dow urethane adhesive ( window sealing) and got my pieces ready...

 

Just a FYI about vibration. You can loosen all the mm bolts and start the car and torque the motor forwards and backwards to seat the engine and then retighten the bolts. This helps with isolating engine vibrations sometimes.

 

Great! Make sure to post a review. How much did you buy those Lower arms for? They list for $184 USD ea. At that price you are better off buying the HardRace bushing set. Why did you buy arms?

 

Oh Okay, well, few reasons. I just have to put them on a list and was a not brainer:
1. Leaving the car without use for 3 days ( I could use the car meanwhile the arms were drying)
2. Is cheap Here. One arm is USD50 original.
3. I always had the feeling that the right one was deformed. One time I hit this road hole at hight speed, with a steering wheel deviation.
4. I wanted to change the OEM shock absorbers for KYB, which I did...
5. Can go back if I don;t like what I feel afterwards.

 

The ORIGINAL Piece was removed after a ride, was very hot. Maybe that is an advantage when applying the urethane for a quick drying (?)
I couldn't remove it by myself have to ask some help. They did pushed the engine forwards a little bit for easy removal.
The filling is easy as the spaces are big and clear.

I have gained control of the car at sudden stop, dont feel the going forward/backward anymore.
I have gained the feeling of the vibration of the engine ( after doing the sound deadening i could barely feel it) It's not noisy, just that engine feeling is nice ( in my opinion).

 

Why did you remove it?

 

took out the original ( not filled) Part. Then replace it with the filled one.
IN this way can always go back to Original Specs if I change my mind.

I corrected the Post....

 

I am looking to do the same thing this weekend, but I was wondering how did you you "drained" it and refilled it?

Thanks btw!

 

once you remove the timing side mount, flip it upside down and you see a rubber cap. poke it with a sharp razor, and oil comes out.

I got lazy waiting for it to drain and torched it dry. Let it cool down, then I fiulled mine the cheap way, with some hot glue. made a really good difference in shifting feel and driving. Even after already filling the tranny mount and rear dogbone

In fact, all 3 of my mounts are hotglue-filled, and its been working great. On long drives, the engine bay heat softens the mounts slightly, so its smooth driving. Any trip under an hour, the mounts still stay firm. I love it.

Do it DE36's style if you care more about it being long term. I did it this way because I had downtime and the opportunity during a fourday in Texas in the barracks parking lot

 

interesting mod.


btw, wat are those two slimmer long bolts pointing down for? are those oem bolts?

 

those look to be OEM studs to guide the crossmember onto the car and bolt into place so the main bolts can be attended to.

Its part of having machines make the car, rather then good ol fashioned humans