Thanks. I don't have DRLs on my US GD3 base so I'll have to try one of your two alternative suggestions. I think I'll go with adding a fuse somewhere just because I don't know if the little position light (not the headlight, not the directional/turn signal, but that little light that doesn't blink) can handle the extra draw of power that the switchback will need. I'll try to get around to looking at everything this weekend.

 

Confirmed. A 2007 USDM GD3 Fit base (using 7440 bulbs) can be converted to a dual-filament (7443) bulb for the front turn signal. My purpose was to install switchback LEDs but I just barely ordered them and they're on the slow boat from China to the United States.


Luis, gracias por la idea. Not to threadjack, but below is what I did.


Tools needed: wire crimpers, 3 wire connectors, about 6ft/2m of 18ga wire, a lot of electrical tape, an add-a-circuit/fuse, and tools to jack your front end up and take off the wheels.


Parts needed: 2 7440 bulb bases with some wires poking out of it (http://www.autolumination.com/images...43_base_wm.jpg, $2.99USD and comes with the wires), and 2 7443 pigtail bulb sockets with wires (http://www.autolumination.com/images...nnector_wm.jpg, $3.49USD), and eventually some resistors (I am using the stock 7440 bulbs until my 7443 switchbacks arrive along with a 6Ohm 50W resistor from here: http://www.autolumination.com/images...nnector_wm.jpg)


It took me about 6 hours from start to finish, but should have only taken between 1 and 2 hours. It was over 100F/38C outside and I was working in my garage that isn't air conditioned and has poor lighting.


Because I can't post pictures, I'll try to describe what I did step-by-step so you can use you imagination.


1. Get one of the bases and one of the sockets.
2. The black wire (-) from the of the bulb goes to the green/yellow and the red wire (+) of the bulb goes to the red/black of the socket.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 one more time for a total of two bulb and socket assemblies. I just wound the wires together and then used electrical tape to secure them. I should have used a better method, but I was still figuring out which wire went where and testing each connection with a 7443 bulb I borrowed from my 2012 Civic Si coupe.
4. Jack up the front of the car safely.
5. Remove both front wheels.
6. Peel back the wheel well on the driver's side. I found that using a bungee cord would hold it out of the way. An extra pair of hands would help too, but are not necessary.
7. Unplug the front driver's side turn signal.
8. Plug in one of the new bulbs to the stock socket. I actually pulled the socket out and taped the bulb into the socket and taped it more so that it would stay in there securely. The new bulb, though the correct size, sits kind of loose in the socket.
9. Plug the new socket into the turn signal hole. The new socket base does not line up with the stock holes. I'm lazy and just wanted to finish this project so I just jammed the new socket in and called it good.
10. Fish a wire from near the headlamp assembly back to the interior fuse box. I would have routed mine through the firewall, but again, I just wanted to get this done, so I went next to the fender and through the grommet under the A-pillar. From there I crimped the wire to an add-a-circuit/fuse and put that in fuse slot 2. My Fit does not have DRLs and I could not tap that fuse. Fuse 2 for me was available, and it turns on when the ignition is on and turns off when the ignition is off. Fuse 5 is also available, but I could not get the add-a-circuit/fuse in there. Fuses 19 and 20 are also available, but those are constantly on. I gave up after that and decided to just use fuse 2.
11. Attach the black/white wire (+) from the new socket to the wire that goes to the fuse box. I could have tapped the little position light, but then the switchback would only turn on when I have my lights on. I wanted them to turn on all the time when the car is on. See step 10 for the reason.
12. Repeat steps 6-9 for the other side.
13. Tap another wire to the wire that goes from the black/white wire to the fuse box and run the wire around the engine bay to the other side. I fished it from near the driver's side headlamp through a little hole in the fender in the engine bay then around the battery and up near the top of the engine bay then around to the passenger's side headlamp assembly.
14. Repeat step 11 for the other side.
15. Test hazard lights to make sure that something lights up in the front.
16. Turn the ignition on and make sure that something lights up in the front.
17. Test the left blinker and make sure that whatever is lit up now lights up more to indicate you want to turn.
18. Repeat step 17 but for the right side. If everything works like it is supposed to, continue with step 19. If something is wrong, hopefully you caught it by now, but if not, just backtrack your steps and find out where you're having a problem.
19. Put everything back and put your wheels back on.
20. Enjoy!


When my switchbacks get here I may order some 7443 sockets (the 1157 in the first post has different stubs on it to keep it mounted in the hole and won't work) and the plastic connectors and the pigtails that they go in them and basically redo everything that I just did today. Or I may just continue to be lazy and leave it be. The turn signals are fairly protected from water.

 

Very good Dwils!!!

I'm a little bit worried about the kind of led switchback bulb you ordered.

Luis

 

Oops! The resistor link should be this one:http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/LED-Resistor.Load-Resistors1-piece and the switchbacks I ordered are from here: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/7443Dual60SMD-W-A7443-Switchback-LED-60-Dual-Color-SMD-White-Amber. It pains me to pay $30USD for a pair of bulbs and I can't justify paying $80USD for two turn signal light bulbs. I'll see how bright they are (claimed to be rated at 500+ lumens) and decide if I like them or not. Another problem that the GD owners have is that the plastic headlamp cover has a diffuser in front of the turn signal area so I think that may cut back on some light.

 

Five days from China to San Francisco and another two from San Francisco to Arizona! I put one of the switchbacks in and it is BAF (bright as...)! But then again, everything light at night looks bright. I have to wait for daybreak to see what it looks like during the day. I would say I would take pictures, but I still don't have a photo-sharing account anywhere so I won't be able to share them.


"But wait, DWils, you said you only installed one switchback?" Yes. I had a problem with one of the sockets and bulb bases. The bulb base wouldn't seat properly in the stock socket so I ripped everything out and went back to using the stock bulb and stock socket until I could order another bulb base. I ordered it on Wednesday and should hopefully get it Friday or maybe Saturday (if USPS still delivers on Saturdays?).

 

Can you do the install with posi-taps and without soldering if you leave out the resistor? Thanks!

 

I think so, you can use any other product as long as it safe for car electric installations.

Luis

 

Great post on how to do this. I'm about to do it this weekend to my (my girlfriends) 12 sport. Your original post inspired a trip to the junk yard and now that I have all the pieces I have a question. To disable the headlights as DRLs did you just leave the fuse out of the original slot and move it to the 2nd fuse position on the add a circircuit?

Merci Dude and nice car

 

Luis....I'm interested in doing this mod and thanks for the DIY writeup. Can you post a video of the lights in action? Youtube link or whatever, just want to see the brightness of the white LED as DRL and the amber flasher.

Thanks