a/c & trans problem that dealer says normal
#1
a/c & trans problem that dealer says normal
My ac doesnt work after driving 3hrs and transmission has clunk noise, so I went to conicelli honda dealer in PA and they couldn't duplicate the problem
So I drove again with tech and he did admit that it does have problem. When he told service manager about it, manager told me infront of tech that "it is normal, no problem to be found for them to fix. And your rpm is too low to make problem"
So I said, "its automatic...computer controsl rpm and gears"
Serice manager kept saying the same exact words and he ignored me...tech told me, he cant do nothing...
What a BS stealership they are...
So I went to my friends autoshop and changed trans oil and somehow that did the trick...im an mech engineer and this really doesnt make any sense..
Anywayz, my ac still has problem...
After driving city and suburb for 3hrs, ac shut down....if I let it cool down under tye shadow for 30min, ac works again...
Usually long highway trips 4+hrs, ac has no problem...
So I drove again with tech and he did admit that it does have problem. When he told service manager about it, manager told me infront of tech that "it is normal, no problem to be found for them to fix. And your rpm is too low to make problem"
So I said, "its automatic...computer controsl rpm and gears"
Serice manager kept saying the same exact words and he ignored me...tech told me, he cant do nothing...
What a BS stealership they are...
So I went to my friends autoshop and changed trans oil and somehow that did the trick...im an mech engineer and this really doesnt make any sense..
Anywayz, my ac still has problem...
After driving city and suburb for 3hrs, ac shut down....if I let it cool down under tye shadow for 30min, ac works again...
Usually long highway trips 4+hrs, ac has no problem...
#2
I can't speak for your transmission issue, (I drive a manual) but I can tell you your ac problem is most likely low freon. I have no idea how much that would cost for a recharge, never had to do it. There's another thread floating near the top with a similar issue.
#3
Funny thing is that I asked for recharge and tech said everything is leveled correctly, nothing is leaking, its a waste to recharge for mine....
I actually went to dealership twice for these two problems before warranty expired...now my warranty is over
I actually went to dealership twice for these two problems before warranty expired...now my warranty is over
Last edited by 1toughfit; 07-10-2014 at 10:00 PM.
#4
Low refrigerant will cause freezing of accumulated moisture out of the air on to the evaporator. It will not take adding much R-134 to solve this. Maybe 3 ounces is all. There is normally 12 oz. in a can.
One work around is to run the AC in recirculate mode. That means less moisture laden air coming in from the outside to freeze up the evaporator. The next thing to try is: the next time it quits, just turn off the AC but leave the fan running. The ice will melt in 4 or 5 minutes while going down the road and then you can turn on the AC again. You will be able to tell when to turn on the AC again as the vent temps will cool down as the ice melts. they will start to warm up again when most or all of the ice is gone.
If you are a DIYer you could get a can of r-134 at Walamrt and an installation hose with gage. Read the pressure while running the ac at engine idle for a reference and then add 1/4 to of a 1/3 can. If that doesn't work add another 1/4 to 1/3 can. Do NOT initially install the whole can as the whole system only holds something less than 2 cans worth. The number 19 oz. comes to mind but I would have to look it up. There is a sticker under the hood telling you it's capacity. That is unimportant for this discussion because you are just addinng a few oz., not refilling the whole system. If you add too much the whole AC system will run warmer air when the AC is on.
Good Luck
One work around is to run the AC in recirculate mode. That means less moisture laden air coming in from the outside to freeze up the evaporator. The next thing to try is: the next time it quits, just turn off the AC but leave the fan running. The ice will melt in 4 or 5 minutes while going down the road and then you can turn on the AC again. You will be able to tell when to turn on the AC again as the vent temps will cool down as the ice melts. they will start to warm up again when most or all of the ice is gone.
If you are a DIYer you could get a can of r-134 at Walamrt and an installation hose with gage. Read the pressure while running the ac at engine idle for a reference and then add 1/4 to of a 1/3 can. If that doesn't work add another 1/4 to 1/3 can. Do NOT initially install the whole can as the whole system only holds something less than 2 cans worth. The number 19 oz. comes to mind but I would have to look it up. There is a sticker under the hood telling you it's capacity. That is unimportant for this discussion because you are just addinng a few oz., not refilling the whole system. If you add too much the whole AC system will run warmer air when the AC is on.
Good Luck
#5
There are other possible causes for evaporators freezing than low refrigerant. I'd talk to the service manager about the history of visits under warranty and that the problem still persists. See if he will work with you.
There's no reason to live with it; it is a problem.
Mine had this issue last summer and was fixed for $275. The mech claims it was a faulty high pressure switch, but also it was evacuated and recharged (that might have been the real fix). Either way it has not frozen up since with several long trips.
There's no reason to live with it; it is a problem.
Mine had this issue last summer and was fixed for $275. The mech claims it was a faulty high pressure switch, but also it was evacuated and recharged (that might have been the real fix). Either way it has not frozen up since with several long trips.
#7
Not if all components are working correctly, otherwise running on low fan speed would freeze it all the time. There is a temperature sensor embedded in the evaporator in addition to the pressure sensor and expansion valve.
A dirty cabin filter can reduce airflow and efficiency, but the system compensates for airflow, incoming air temperature/humidity and will not freeze if working correctly.
A dirty cabin filter can reduce airflow and efficiency, but the system compensates for airflow, incoming air temperature/humidity and will not freeze if working correctly.
#10
Before you add any R-134, make sure that freeze up is your real problem. Then check the low side pressure with the engine running and the fan on full speed. Please post the reading and the outside air temperature when you took it.
Note: It is easy to over charge the system. If you do it will not cool as well and will trip the over pressure sensor / switch when running.
As stated by another poster, a properly charged and operating AC system should not freeze up at any air flow rate or fan speed, but I have seen several Honda Fit complaints of freeze up posted here.
#13
I looked at a 2009 Honda Maintenance Manual today and the Honda Fit evaporator sensor is attached to the ECM/PCM. So the Fit AC system is partly or maybe completely computer controlled. I erroneously stated that it is not in the following posting.
I have a lot of experience working on AC systems on other auto and truck brands. While we have a lot of Hondas in my extended family, I have only once worked on the AC system on a Honda. On that one it was a small leak and I changed an o-ring and recharged it. That Accord was 16 years old at the time. I just took a 1993 Honda Accord to the junk yard that still had the original R-12 in it that came from the factory in 1993. I pumped it out and saved it because R-12 is no longer manufactured and expensive.
Now, refrigerant (R-134) works the same no matter what vehicle it is installed in. So what I post is based on that experience and not Honda specific. AC control systems can vary from brand to brand. On my GM Colorado there is one pressure sensor and the BCM and PCM both determine when to start and stop the compressor. On the singe Honda I worked on there was no computer control of the AC and everything was handled by pressure sensors and relays. If there is no computer control of th AC then there is no possibility of setting error codes. I have the impression (but no experience) that there is no computer control of the AC systems on the Honda Fit.
My over all impression of Honda AC systems is they are very reliable and efficient. The 09 Honda Fit that my daughter just totaled always had excellent AC. My daughter and I just picked up a replacement 2011 FIT two day ago. We drove it approximately 175 miles home at 92 to 95 degrees outside. After the initial 15 minutes to cool the car down the AC was super cold. I ended up running the fan speed on #2 with outside air (not recirculate) and all three of us in the car were comfortable all the way home in 90 degree plus humid weather.
I filled up the gas tank to the top of the top of filler neck before leaving and again 1/2 mile before parking it at the end of the trip. We went 179.2 miles with the AC on the whole time and used 4.5 gallons of fuel. That calculates to be 39.8 mpg The on board mpg calculator showed 39.7 mpg. I do not think that you can beat that kind of performance in almost any brand of vehicle out there while traveling in air conditioned comfort.
Back to the AC. Almost all AC performance problems can be traced down to improper charge levels. After that, the problems usually are leaks, fan motor circuits, and then control (sensors). I have never needed to replace a compressor on a Honda. I'll bet they are expensive.
Last edited by n9cv; 07-25-2014 at 02:43 AM.
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