A/C compressor not cycling, evap freeze-up
#21
06-08-2015, 11:47 AM
AC Pro Professional Formula Refrigerant - Walmart.com
This is the one I bought. Walmart carries it, but you may be able to find it at AutoZone, Advance, etc. also. This is the most expensive kit they had ($38). I figured if I was taking the chance doing it myself I wanted to get the best/most expensive one.
-Dustin
This is the one I bought. Walmart carries it, but you may be able to find it at AutoZone, Advance, etc. also. This is the most expensive kit they had ($38). I figured if I was taking the chance doing it myself I wanted to get the best/most expensive one.
-Dustin
#22
06-09-2015, 01:42 AM
I mentioned earlier that I've had similar problems with the evap freezing up on my 2012 Sport A/T. I never got around to taking it to the dealership, but took a chance and bought a $38 A/C recharge kit from Walmart. The kit has a reusable hose and gauge and Walmart sells freon refills for it. I'm guessing it took about 1/3 to 1/2 of the bottle to get the gauge dead in the middle of the green area that matched the outside temperature. I did this a little over a week ago, so I can't comment on any long term effects, but the A/C is working perfectly now. The cooling performance is much better and I've had no problems with the coil freezing up even on 3+ hour road trips running the A/C constantly. I knew it just needed some freon and didn't want to take it to the dealership and have them evacuate it, check for leaks, recharge it, etc. and charge me $200+, so I went this route.
-Dustin
-Dustin
Mine typically freezes up on longer road trips. I let the vent run (a/c off) for 5 - 10 minutes and kick the a/c back on and it works. I did some reading and it appears any number of reasons can cause the a/c to freeze up. Low refrigerant is a common fix as low refrigerant levels cause a drop in pressure which in turn drops the internal temperature of the condenser. When that temp drops below 32 degrees it causes the outside air to freeze the system and block air flow. A recharge will fix this symptom by increasing system pressure. Does this sound accurate?
I also read that the system of switches and relays are supposed to keep pressure from dropping below levels that would cause freezing. It also seems to happen on cars with smaller a/c systems - Smart Car, Prius, Civic, etc. all seem to have issues.
I've already ordered the part, so I guess I'll install it since it's cheap. I have some leftover refrigerant from a recharge on my truck so I'll hook it up and get the pressure reading and report back.
#23
06-09-2015, 01:44 AM
Also of note - seems to happen in southern climates where temperatures and humidity can get pretty high. Posters in this thread from Georgia, Kentucky, Alabama, North Carolina and Texas.
#24
06-09-2015, 01:45 PM
I think the high humidity definitely makes the problem worse.
I don't remember the exact pressure, but the kit I used has a gauge with an adjustment range that you move to match the outside temperature at the time you're recharging the system. Once I set it for the outside temperature my refrigerant charge pressure was just below the lower limit of the proper pressure range, so it was definitely low. It sounds to me like you're having the exact same problem. Before recharging my A/C would work, but it wasn't cooling as well and would freeze up after about 30 to 45 minutes of continuous use. I would have to do the same thing you did and turn off the A/C for 5 minutes or so and leave the fan running to defrost the coil. Then it would work again for a while.
-Dustin
I don't remember the exact pressure, but the kit I used has a gauge with an adjustment range that you move to match the outside temperature at the time you're recharging the system. Once I set it for the outside temperature my refrigerant charge pressure was just below the lower limit of the proper pressure range, so it was definitely low. It sounds to me like you're having the exact same problem. Before recharging my A/C would work, but it wasn't cooling as well and would freeze up after about 30 to 45 minutes of continuous use. I would have to do the same thing you did and turn off the A/C for 5 minutes or so and leave the fan running to defrost the coil. Then it would work again for a while.
-Dustin
#25
06-13-2015, 09:52 AM
~SB
#26
08-18-2015, 11:35 AM
I wanted to update my experience with this issue.
I had the same issue as everyone on this thread as well as other threads. AC would stop running cold and blow hot air after driving for four hours two years ago.
Last year it got worse, it would blow warm air after about an hour of driving.
In May of this year, the AC would start out as normal, then gradually blew warmer air after 10 minutes. I changed out the AC fuse since it was only a $8 part and nothing changed. So I followed what Bama3Dr did and bought the walmart refill can and had my cousin (who is in HVAC) refill it for me.
It's been three months now and I can finally say the AC has been fixed. I just completed a three hour drive this weekend in 90+ degree/humid NY weather and for the first time in years, had to actually lower the AC because it was too cold.
I had the same issue as everyone on this thread as well as other threads. AC would stop running cold and blow hot air after driving for four hours two years ago.
Last year it got worse, it would blow warm air after about an hour of driving.
In May of this year, the AC would start out as normal, then gradually blew warmer air after 10 minutes. I changed out the AC fuse since it was only a $8 part and nothing changed. So I followed what Bama3Dr did and bought the walmart refill can and had my cousin (who is in HVAC) refill it for me.
It's been three months now and I can finally say the AC has been fixed. I just completed a three hour drive this weekend in 90+ degree/humid NY weather and for the first time in years, had to actually lower the AC because it was too cold.
#27
08-19-2015, 12:42 AM
I wanted to update my experience with this issue.
I had the same issue as everyone on this thread as well as other threads. AC would stop running cold and blow hot air after driving for four hours two years ago.
Last year it got worse, it would blow warm air after about an hour of driving.
In May of this year, the AC would start out as normal, then gradually blew warmer air after 10 minutes. I changed out the AC fuse since it was only a $8 part and nothing changed. So I followed what Bama3Dr did and bought the walmart refill can and had my cousin (who is in HVAC) refill it for me.
It's been three months now and I can finally say the AC has been fixed. I just completed a three hour drive this weekend in 90+ degree/humid NY weather and for the first time in years, had to actually lower the AC because it was too cold.
I had the same issue as everyone on this thread as well as other threads. AC would stop running cold and blow hot air after driving for four hours two years ago.
Last year it got worse, it would blow warm air after about an hour of driving.
In May of this year, the AC would start out as normal, then gradually blew warmer air after 10 minutes. I changed out the AC fuse since it was only a $8 part and nothing changed. So I followed what Bama3Dr did and bought the walmart refill can and had my cousin (who is in HVAC) refill it for me.
It's been three months now and I can finally say the AC has been fixed. I just completed a three hour drive this weekend in 90+ degree/humid NY weather and for the first time in years, had to actually lower the AC because it was too cold.
As a side note. If you find yourself needing to top it off more that once per season, your leak has gotten larger and you probably will need to find it at that time.
For now, congratulations and welcome to the world of automotive HVAC. I spent today fixing my home AC. They are much simpler to work on than automotive AC systems but the procedures are about the same. Mine quit on Sunday when it was 95 or so out and I could not go get parts until today.
#29
06-01-2016, 02:47 AM
Most DIYers think that more is better.
The opposite is true with AC systems. As you add refrigerant to an AC system the temperature in the evaporator (the heat exchange unit) rises. So less is better to a point. You do not want to reduce the charge (pressure) below the point where the evaporator is running at 32 degrees F.
At 32 F the moisture collected from the outside air that you normally see dripping out of the bottom of your car freezes on the evaporator. This ice reduces the air flow and heat exchange of the air going through the evaporator.
What I like to do is to check the air temperature at the center AC vent with a meat thermometer (available at Walmart for $10.) With the AC on FULL and recirculate while driving down the road I like to see a minimum temperature of 40 F. Most manufacturers recommend a more conservative number of 45 or 46. 40 will give you more cooling and still not freeze up the evaporator.
If you try this, do not do this on a very warm day as the Honda AC system will not be able to reach it's minimum value and you will erroneously think that you need to remove some of the refrigerant.
The opposite is true with AC systems. As you add refrigerant to an AC system the temperature in the evaporator (the heat exchange unit) rises. So less is better to a point. You do not want to reduce the charge (pressure) below the point where the evaporator is running at 32 degrees F.
At 32 F the moisture collected from the outside air that you normally see dripping out of the bottom of your car freezes on the evaporator. This ice reduces the air flow and heat exchange of the air going through the evaporator.
What I like to do is to check the air temperature at the center AC vent with a meat thermometer (available at Walmart for $10.) With the AC on FULL and recirculate while driving down the road I like to see a minimum temperature of 40 F. Most manufacturers recommend a more conservative number of 45 or 46. 40 will give you more cooling and still not freeze up the evaporator.
If you try this, do not do this on a very warm day as the Honda AC system will not be able to reach it's minimum value and you will erroneously think that you need to remove some of the refrigerant.
#30
02-19-2024, 08:04 PM
My '09 Fit's A/C cools fast and blows very cold during city driving, and the compressor clutch never cycles on/off. Lots of water drips from the drain tube, no sloshing heard inside car. I checked it at idle for almost 2 mins, never cycles, and neither during acceleration or cruising. Both rad fans are always running. I usually use recirculation on 4 at first, then turn down to 3 or 2 as it cools off. But the biggest problem is on long highway cruises, after about an hour, the evaporator becomes iced up to the point of airflow being nearly cut off. The low side piping is solid ice under the hood. Cabin filter is clean. Called Honda dealer and made an appt to check it out. He suggests moisture in the system may be the cause, a relay might be stuck Troubleshooting CRV AC Failures. He said they will evacuate/recharge the system first, then evaluate from there. He doesn't believe it's the thermistor. Ballpark is up to $240 evac/charge, around $400+ if they have to open the evaporator casing to change the thermistor. I have CarMax extended warranty @ $250 deductible from when I bought the Fit @ 14K miles. I'm at 56K now, no other worries so far. So hopefully this is just a simple case of evacuate and recharge the system. Got a long trip coming up soon, and definitely want it to be worry-free.
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