Hey all-
I think the local oil change place is trying to screw me over. Need your opinion...

Back story: 2009 Fit, 60k miles (bought in Oct 2008 so 10k/yr)... I'd say 50/50 city/hwy driving. Every oil change has been done at oil life of 30% or lower -- the past several times I've taken it in, it's been after the 15% warning light went off.

My oil life indicator went off a week ago, so I took the Fit into the "Mr. Tire" for its usual conventional change. The manager was ticked that my last recorded change was at 50k and said, "No, if you're running conventional oil, you have to have it done every 3,000 miles, otherwise it'll burn up." (exact words)

I said, "I've had the oil changed here at least four times, and every time it's been when the indicator told me to."

Manager: "You shouldn't do it based on the indicator says so, because it just does it based on mileage. It subtracts 10% every 1,000 miles."

Me: "This car comes into this shop at *least* twice a year -- once for inspection and another 1-2 times for an oil change. Not once have I been told that I need to bring it in every 3,000 miles."

Manager: "Well, I'm the new manager here, so things are different now. If you go that long between oil changes, you should use synthetic. Even the 2013 Corolla uses syntethic." [wtf?]

He continues to try to get me to get the synthetic oil change, and I decline and tell him to just do conventional.


So. I feel like I'm getting the shaft here. I didn't realize that it had been 10k since my last change (I'd feel more comfortable if it were, say, 7k), but this whole business about "burning up the oil" after 3k sounds like absolute bullshit in my book. (I should mention I'm a girl, so maybe he thought he could pull this off.) Not to mention I'm reasonably sure the Fit's oil life is NOT based on mileage.

Thoughts? Should I tell him to go shove that synthetic oil up his arse and stop using this place for changes and emissions?

 

they are trying to screw you. i only change the oil once a year or when the reminder goes off. sure for added insurance you can use mobil1 or any synthic or synthetic blend, but not really necessary.

 

Cool thanks. This is the same place that told me that I needed to flush the coolant on my Toyota Tundra... brought it my usual mechanic and he said it had already been done at some point and the fluid was fine!

He also just called and said my air filters were dirty. Last time I checked there was only one filter in the car (which I've replaced myself)... am I missing something?

 

Cabin filter makes two. But it is a scam. Change every 30K miles for engine air filter. The cabin filter can be changed more frequently to keep it fresh smelling, but this shouldn't cost more than $25.

 

Uhoh. I don't think I've ever changed the cabin filter.

 

um that smell, relax: it isn't you.

seriously go by the honda parts counter and pick up a cabin filter for $25. We'll walk you through it. It's a 5 minute DIY, no tools. Maybe a flashlight if you do it in the garage.

 

If it's through the glove compartment, I think I'm OK -- have done it in my Tundra before.

 

+1 on the every 3,000 miles being bull and also on the maintenance minder just going by mileage. The maintenance minder tracks several different things.....engine rpm, mileage, throttle position, etc. (I'm not sure what else, but it's several things)...... and uses an algorithm to determine oil life left. My driving is mostly interstate, so I've been going 11,000 to 12,000 miles and sometimes more before my oil life gets around 10%.

I have been using the dealership, which is supposed to use the Honda 0W-20 synthetic blend (part synthetic). The last oil change I did myself and used full synthetic Royal Purple. You'd probably be okay with non synthetic oil, but I like using it for peace of mind. Also, I plan to keep my Fit past 200,000miles and I feel that the full synthetic oil will keep the engine running like new longer even if it's not completely necessary.

-Dustin

 

It is. Just squeeze in on the plastic sides (bend them) of the glove compartment to release the stops and open it up all the way and the filter cover is behind that. Very easy.

-Dustin

 

What weight of oil is Mr tire using? I have a 2011 and it requires 0w-20 which is only available in synthetic and I go about 11000 miles between changes I would quit taking it anywhere and do it yourself, you can buy the oil at Walmart for 25 bucks and from ultraguard 7317 for around 10 bucks - you can do it in 30 minutes and know its done right

 

Just smile and nod and go by the maintenance minder. If you get exhausted from smiling and nodding so much, go somewhere else to have the service done. (So long as the oil meets the specifications in the owner's manual or otherwise made by Honda—which has to do with the weight and an industry standard approval code, which pretty much any motor oil being produced will meet—it should be fine for the service life as figured by Honda.)

It's pretty amusing to suggest that a change in management at the oil change place has any bearing on how long the oil lasts in a particular engine. I suppose that, by the same logic, our gas milage should go down about 10 or 15 mpg if somebody new took over the local Exxon station.

 

He has a 2009, 2009-2010 shop manual called for 5w-20 oil. The change to 0w-20 started with 2011 cars.


Clifton

 

Maybe he's trying to tell you they use junk oil, now that he's manager.

3000 miles has been a myth for decades. The SEVERE change schedule in my 1996 Civic was 5000, normal was 7500.

 

It's also cool to note there are owners here where the MM has called for oil changes in less than 2,000 miles. This happens when you drive short distances all the time and the engine doesn't stay at operating temperature long enough to boil off contaminants. Since water is one of the products of combustion this is the main contaminant and causes nasty reactions. At operating temps it harmlessly goes down the tailpipe.

The MM is pretty smart.

 

The owner's manual explains all of this stuff; (or ask here if you're lazy). My dealer during the delivery specified and explained the reduced maintenance and highlighted and bookmarked the page of manual for us, so put a point in their column for being more "trustworthy".

But not worth it to argue with the place.
Either just be specific and firm with what service you want and save your braincells, or move on to a different shop/mechanic. There are plenty of shops and mechanics.

 

Oil changes are based on use. If you are in a severe environment. Then change sooner.
Personally I do it every 3000 miles but I live in Arizona. But since I work in the field of vehicle durability I do not let it go past 4k regardless of where i live. And if I drive it harder I change it sooner. The dash light is great if you are doing old people simple driving. My dad against my discussion followed the Lexus schedule and at 15k his suv sounded bad. At 25k it was new motor.

Also with BMW, the v8 motors... They have the long oil life schedule. Any M5, 6 or 7 I have seen with the v8 motor at 50k is getting the heads pulled for valve guides.
Oil is cheap wen you look at a motor replacement bill.

 

Adaptive ECU's are here.

 

For all you people giving advice, can the MM tell what oil is put in the car? 5w20 or 0w20? Conventional or synthetic?

I'm going to throw out a guess and say no. If that shop is not using something similar to Honda's 0w20, which is synthetic, then I wouldn't follow the MM. Reason for this is that the MM is calibrated to assume your using something that is 0w20 and synthetic. Using anything different would give you false readings.

Of course an oil analysis would tell you a lot more information.

 

I agree with your first point;
but your 2nd point that it's finely calibrated to using 0w20 and synthetic is just an assumption.

It is far more likely that they calibrated for the lowest common denominator- i.e. a plain 5w20 (as what was shipped with the 2009).

Moreover, they would build in tons of buffer space, to keep customer satisfaction high, and save stupid owners from being their own worst enemy. In the prior lawsuits to Toyota oil sludging, they paid out claims for people who changed oil even within 150% of the recommended OCI. Every automaker's lawyers must have seen this. So any subsequent MM calibration should be at conservative and hit 0 when the oil quality really should have 50% more life left.

So despite however smart the MM calibration could be, that precision is completely hidden in the fog of needing to account for the lowest common denominator oil and owner.

 

Classact... just take your business elsewhere!! If you have a Tires Plus near you, I recommend them. They are corporate owned, not franchises, and in my experience have never tried to get me to do something I didn't need done, and haven't tried to overcharge me.