Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement?
#1
Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement?
I'm getting the feeling that I need to replace 1 (or both) of the rear wheel bearing/hub assemblies on my 2009 Fit Sport (76K miles).
Anything special I need to know? I'm having trouble finding specific instructions online and I want to know if there are any gotchas in the process. I've replaced the wheel bearing/hub assembly on my wife's old 2003 Saturn VUE, so I know the general procedure.
Getting kind of a "roaring" sound coming from the back, tone/frequency of sounds increases with speed, also slightly rhythmic (like it's making a bit of a "wub" sound on each rotation).
Planning on grabbing this pair for $58 (cheap!): http://www.1aauto.com/honda-fit-insi...r/i/1ashs00721
Thanks!
Anything special I need to know? I'm having trouble finding specific instructions online and I want to know if there are any gotchas in the process. I've replaced the wheel bearing/hub assembly on my wife's old 2003 Saturn VUE, so I know the general procedure.
Getting kind of a "roaring" sound coming from the back, tone/frequency of sounds increases with speed, also slightly rhythmic (like it's making a bit of a "wub" sound on each rotation).
Planning on grabbing this pair for $58 (cheap!): http://www.1aauto.com/honda-fit-insi...r/i/1ashs00721
Thanks!
#2
I would be looking at tires rather than bearings as the source of your noise. It is a simple job to pull the rear hubs and bearings. Jack it up remove the wheels, remove the drums.
Note: There are two threaded holes in the drums. It the drums do not slide off easily, insert two bolts in the drum holes and turn until the drums come loose.
Remove the dust cover in the center of the wheel. Remove the big nut and slide hub with bearings off of the spindle.
Note: The spindle/hub nut is held in place by a dent in the nut matching the recess in the spindle. I just drive the nut off using an impact wrench rather than trying to straightening the dent out (stake) in the nut first. The 2009 service manual page 18-32 manual says to use a new nut and dust cover and tighten to 181N-m (18.5kgf-m, 134lbf-ft). When reinstalling the nut, after tightening to the proper torque, I simply put another dent in the same nut (called staking) to keep it from coming loose. On most cars they use a cotter pin. On the Fit they use this stake in the nut instead.
Note: There are two threaded holes in the drums. It the drums do not slide off easily, insert two bolts in the drum holes and turn until the drums come loose.
Remove the dust cover in the center of the wheel. Remove the big nut and slide hub with bearings off of the spindle.
Note: The spindle/hub nut is held in place by a dent in the nut matching the recess in the spindle. I just drive the nut off using an impact wrench rather than trying to straightening the dent out (stake) in the nut first. The 2009 service manual page 18-32 manual says to use a new nut and dust cover and tighten to 181N-m (18.5kgf-m, 134lbf-ft). When reinstalling the nut, after tightening to the proper torque, I simply put another dent in the same nut (called staking) to keep it from coming loose. On most cars they use a cotter pin. On the Fit they use this stake in the nut instead.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BMW ALPINA
2nd Generation GE8 Specific Suspension & Brakes Sub-Forum
6
05-07-2015 12:36 AM