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My mileage story

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  #81  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas Coyote
The additional ignition timing is the reason the shifting is as firm as it is... On most automatic transmissions the more viscous the ATF the slower the shifting is.... B&M high performance ATF is almost watery in consistency and makes the shifts feel very firm... It seems that in colder weather colder ATF would shift less firmly.
Nothing a manual valve body solenoids and line locks can't solve!

Shifting at full line pressure would make those "flappy paddle" transmissions feel more like a DSG and provide a slightly sporting feel to our slushbox brethen!
 
  #82  
Old 12-08-2010, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Klasse Act
....23 mpg

How many monthes in winter again

I'm still sticking with BP 93 octane and I mentioned this before and didn't get any real response to this but I swear the trans shifts firmer when using premium, am I imagining this?
23 mpg your idling too long. I am getting 34 mpg and that with 3 days of 15 minutes warm ups which is about 1 gallon of gas with zero miles. I also notice that if you are light on the gas instead of letting off mpg goes up. I believe that because when you let off the gas 0 fuel is used but when you get back on it, it knocks so the timing is retarded and lost mpg because the ecu remembers it and wont advance fully. The higher the advance the more efficient your engine is and your mpg will be at your highest.

Winter is too long. This year it just hit hard with no build up. Next week is going to be even colder. At least we didn't get the big snow yet.

The trans shift is firmer because higher torque is being made with premium. Your car is running more efficient and is easier on the motor and trans, the cv joint and brakes might not last as long but thats because you end up enjoying the extra torque. http://www.zzw30.com/HondaRA168EEngine.pdf if you look at this it explains why premium gas is better. B.S.F.C is the reason even though its a turbo but applies to high compression too. The principles are the same for both.
 
  #83  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:26 PM
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I know that where I live there is no comparing the winter temperatures... It might drop down to the upper 20s tonight... Remember the exhaust heat risers that was common on all American cars in the days of carburetors? I have found that the exhaust control valve I put on my car to quieten it down when I would need to has been doing double duty when my engine is cold by hastening the time that it takes to turn off the blue light.... In 30 degree temperatures I close the valve crank it and go. I am lucky that I can take it very easy for a half mile at low revs and in 1st or 2nd gear but the light is off in that distance with cold plugs, rich tuning, hood louvers, throttle body bypass, and inter cooler.. It was taking longer to warm in the same conditions when it was stock... Ok guys I have had a little Bourbon and my thought processes are in spirals at best or so I was told by my first love, but none the less you might consider getting an Apexi exhaust control valve to expedite the warming process in those cold start situations you have up there...You can sneak up on people with one on your car too and it is great if you are into poaching deer not that I would use my car for such a thing but only because I can shoot them from just about any window of my house any time I want..... Now what in the hell was I talking about anyway... Oh well......
 
  #84  
Old 12-09-2010, 07:34 PM
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Arrow

Thanks for all the input on the firmer shifting and don't worry, this doesn't make me drive the car faster. I also appreciate the not lifting off the throttle completely too, that makes good sense to me and its something I do when I go over this big bridge going to and from work everyday. I did this because the mpg gauge goes all the way to 80 mpg (not that it gets that high)

Yeah, its supposed to be 8 degrees for a high on Monday and guess what, I don't work on Monday's and I'm not even going to start the car unless I have to go somewhere and it better be well worth it!
 
  #85  
Old 12-12-2010, 08:58 AM
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My mileage has gone up from barely 23 mpg to 29 mpg on my last fill up, now I was at half, but when its this cold out, no way in hell am I going to let it go below half, especially when the high is 10 degrees and with the windchill being below 0, forget about it

It appears that the BP 93 is starting to do its thing. I did pay $3.49 a gallon, but with the increase in mileage and how it runs, small price to pay. The most noticable thing, besides the mileage, is how the trans shifts and like you said SB, the added torque, don't know how much it really is, but you can feel it for sure. Can't wait till the weather warms up and I go back home to see what I can expect then. My record is 39 mpg going back to Detroit and 43 mpg coming back to Chicago. That 43 mpg was achieved with the stock tires/wheels but I did get that 41.3 mpg with my new tire/wheel set up.
 
  #86  
Old 12-12-2010, 11:37 AM
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The cold weather here with the longer warm ups is hurting mpg. 3.49 is 20 cent higher than up here in lake county and must be the higher taxes and longer travel form the gasoline farm. Typically bp ultimate is 24 cents higher than regular and I get 3 or 4 mpg better than regular so I save a few penny's and use less gas in the long run, which mean less dirt and with a better running car less stress on the engine. The thing about tires, is it the same size? Honda mileage is off a little still after the law suit of a few years ago. So if you speedometer says 60 mph your going 59 so the mpg is off a little too. I know this because of the scangauge having to correct it by add 1 mph to it. That also explain why the mpg is off on the 09-10 Fits on there computer read out. Also the pumps are off when filling up from when the pump shuts off you can add 1-2 gallons into the tank with some of that going back into the fuel pump back into the tanks at the station. You should always fill up at a half a tank to lessen that problem because when its low there more vapor in the tank and more fuel goes into the stations tanks. So the mpg is not always accurate.

In the winter always keep the tank full and less moisture will condense and fall back into the gas and freeze which cause fuel separation and running lower octane than the original fill up.
 

Last edited by SilverBullet; 12-12-2010 at 01:23 PM.
  #87  
Old 12-12-2010, 06:32 PM
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My wipers were stuck to the windshield this morning, so I had to let the car warm up quite a bit to thaw them out but I don't care, whatever it takes. Tomorrow its supposed to be very cold and the car is warming up before I go anywhere and now that I think about it, why doesn't this car have heater mirrors, they can't cost that much more to add onto the car, I mean they saved money not including a package tray on the car afterall
 
  #88  
Old 12-12-2010, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Klasse Act
My wipers were stuck to the windshield this morning, so I had to let the car warm up quite a bit to thaw them out but I don't care, whatever it takes. Tomorrow its supposed to be very cold and the car is warming up before I go anywhere and now that I think about it, why doesn't this car have heater mirrors, they can't cost that much more to add onto the car, I mean they saved money not including a package tray on the car afterall
I still have to thaw out my car, I am glad that we didn't get the foot of snow.
 
  #89  
Old 12-12-2010, 07:07 PM
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Thought I would cheer you guys up a little... Took this today, remember this is a 15gal tank and the trip meter is obscured but reads 78 miles:



Idling perfectly at E10 Pump gas stoich (~14.2:1AFRs) but I developed a boost leak today after this was taken that I have to track down when my hands thaw out..
 
  #90  
Old 12-12-2010, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Thought I would cheer you guys up a little... Took this today, remember this is a 15gal tank and the trip meter is obscured but reads 78 miles:



Idling perfectly at E10 Pump gas stoich (~14.2:1AFRs) but I developed a boost leak today after this was taken that I have to track down when my hands thaw out..
What did you do idle all day? Thats worse mileage my wife has in her van.
 
  #91  
Old 12-12-2010, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet
What did you do idle all day? Thats worse mileage my wife has in her van.
Yup, idling at 27psi! Cold air has been great to me, even though the meth kit is not in the car at the moment. The BorgWarner is so efficient across such a broad range of flow and pressure ratios I am getting away with almost 30psi on winter blend pump gas, no toluene and a big ebay intercooler.

Some of my lower rpm medium/low load cells need adjusting because the turbo spools so fast, and picks up vacuum with very little throttle input in all gears and more than once I was trying to drive conservatively and the car would start to buck.

Looking up at the wideband gauge would show as lean as 16.x:1AFRs in 2nd and 3rd @ 3.5k RPM

I did let it warm up for about 25 minutes to heat up the engine oil and defrost the wipers and windows.

I might have to increase my idle rpm and add some better grounding straps though, because with 2 fuel pumps, 3 cooling fans, the blower for the heater, headlights, defroster circuits, 10-11 gauges and the radio on, my gauge voltage was in the mid 11's

You can hear the fuel pumps change tone when the wipers or blinkers go on, so that needs to be fixed.

I have to probably bring the Idle speed up to about 1100-1200 to charge the battery.
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 12-12-2010 at 07:38 PM.
  #92  
Old 12-12-2010, 07:44 PM
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Now I know what mpg my sons turbo will have next year when we get it running. I wont be complaining about 30 mpg any more especially this cold weather we are having.
 
  #93  
Old 12-12-2010, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet
Now I know what mpg my sons turbo will have next year when we get it running. I wont be complaining about 30 mpg any more especially this cold weather we are having.

Yea something like that..

But when he is not on boost and just cruising around town he can see the same or better mileage than the car did in OE form. It's all in the tune! But if you are making enough power you can watch the fuel needle move on a 3-4-5 gear pull..

Today in 21F weather I was seeing total airflow of 44-45lbs/min @ 27psi requires alot of fuel. This is enough for more than 400whp. 400+ whp out of a measly 2.0L takes a lot of fuel no matter how you look at it

I was running pretty rich today too for safety, which doesnt help. 11.5:1AFR or richer under WOT.
 
  #94  
Old 12-12-2010, 08:16 PM
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My sons car
Its a non vtec 1.8 and should be capable of 15 pounds on 100 unleaded. Which would be around 300 crank hp. We want to have programmed 3 maps 5 and 10 pounds running premium gas and 15 pounds on unleaded racing fuel.

Have ran a k20 a2 motor with 20 pounds and made 405 at the wheels. I want to be there to tune the car. Hands on is the only way to learn to tune.
 
  #95  
Old 12-12-2010, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet
My sons car
Its a non vtec 1.8 and should be capable of 15 pounds on 100 unleaded. Which would be around 300 crank hp. We want to have programmed 3 maps 5 and 10 pounds running premium gas and 15 pounds on unleaded racing fuel.

Have ran a k20 a2 motor with 20 pounds and made 405 at the wheels. I want to be there to tune the car. Hands on is the only way to learn to tune.
Agreed seat time is the only way to go with this sort of thing!

What compression is the 1.8L? 16valve DOHC?

15psi on what compressor/turbine? What tuning hardware will he be using?

Is the same turbo from your 20psi/400whp K20 going on his 1.8L? It sounds like a relatively large compressor wheel!
 
  #96  
Old 12-12-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Agreed seat time is the only way to go with this sort of thing!

What compression is the 1.8L? 16valve DOHC?

15psi on what compressor/turbine? What tuning hardware will he be using?

Is the same turbo from your 20psi/400whp K20 going on his 1.8L? It sounds like a relatively large compressor wheel!
Not sure on the turbo because its a project of my older sons who a mechanic and built the 1.8 16 valve DOHC non vtec which makes it a little easier to tune. We have to re pipe the turbo before the tune. We got it for 1000 dollars and could piece it out for 3000 at least. I do believe the turbo is an older setup with lots of piping.
 

Last edited by SilverBullet; 12-12-2010 at 09:13 PM.
  #97  
Old 12-12-2010, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverBullet
Not sure on the turbo because its a project of my older sons who a mechanic and built the 1.8 16 valve DOHC non vtec which makes it a little easier to tune. We have to re pipe the turbo before the tune. We got it for 1000 dollars and could piece it out for 3000 at least. I do the turbo is an older setup with lots of piping. Allow myself to introduce..... my..self. - Page 2 - Honda-Tech

Wow, I am impressed. That is going to be a lot of fun when he gets it running!

The compressor looks like it could be in the 30/40lb/min range (reallly rough estimate based on what i can see of the compressor cover) and according to the thread it is a 10.5:1 Compression B18.

If you guys get aggressive with the timing out of boost on your MaxOct maps that should be a beast in a little DA integra! He's done a good deal with the interior and it looks like he's got quite ajob to tackle on the exterior but in the end he will know more about his car than 98% of the people on the road.

It sounds like his brothers got his back on this one, so hopefully when it does come time for boost they don't get ahead of themselves!

Fortunately they built the bottom end to a decent degree as well! So barring oiling issues or product defect that shouldn't be a real worry unless he hasn't got the fuel and ECU to support all the airflow.

That intercooler looks almost as large as the one on my laser, which will help a lot on pump gas!
 
  #98  
Old 12-12-2010, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Wow, I am impressed. That is going to be a lot of fun when he gets it running!

The compressor looks like it could be in the 30/40lb/min range (reallly rough estimate based on what i can see of the compressor cover) and according to the thread it is a 10.5:1 Compression B18.

If you guys get aggressive with the timing out of boost on your MaxOct maps that should be a beast in a little DA integra! He's done a good deal with the interior and it looks like he's got quite ajob to tackle on the exterior but in the end he will know more about his car than 98% of the people on the road.

It sounds like his brothers got his back on this one, so hopefully when it does come time for boost they don't get ahead of themselves!

Fortunately they built the bottom end to a decent degree as well! So barring oiling issues or product defect that shouldn't be a real worry unless he hasn't got the fuel and ECU to support all the airflow.

That intercooler looks almost as large as the one on my laser, which will help a lot on pump gas!

Those are older pictures its painted and was running b4 the snow got here, this winter my older son is going to finish it by summer. I do know the old owner and builder wanted it to run high boost.
 
  #99  
Old 12-13-2010, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Thought I would cheer you guys up a little... Took this today, remember this is a 15gal tank and the trip meter is obscured but reads 78 miles:



Idling perfectly at E10 Pump gas stoich (~14.2:1AFRs) but I developed a boost leak today after this was taken that I have to track down when my hands thaw out..
WOW! 78 miles on 3/4 of a tank, damn, I did better than that with my old 78' Caprice Classic 2 door w/ a built 406 s/b, 4000 stall and 4.88 gears
 
  #100  
Old 12-14-2010, 12:15 AM
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My fuel gauge needle made contact with the full mark at 112 miles today... That is about 20 less than before boost.
 


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