Finally voted in my own poll. I'm going with 5W-20. Unless you assume a totally awesome Group 4 base stock synthetic with no viscosity modifiers, the greater the range between the two numbers, the more of those chemicals there are to break down. Besides, the switch from 5 to 0 is likely to get Honda's fleet some small percentage point of a mileage gain for CAFE purposes, but not make a real difference in my car.

That's not to say I'll NEVER try 0w-20. The poll says "next oil change". I'd try it to satisfy my curiosity.

I've developed a little oil obsession over the past week or so and the biggest thing I've learned is that no one agrees with anyone else on the internet about anything, period. Even the "experts" are crazy. Bob the Oil Guy? Tears apart his new Ferrari when switching oils so he can get all the old stuff out of every nook and cranny (rather than say, flushing it). Motor oil Bible? Secretly contains a real Bible. Seriously, it's like it's the middle ages, but we all have internet forums to spout off about alchemical formulas.

 

I did mine at the dealer... M1 0w20 for $44

 

If you guys want more mileage and / or power from your oil, try running a little less oil...

Wet sump motors have the crank's counterweights sloshing through a pool of oil. Imagine running down the beach. The deeper you're in the water, the harder it is to run. I'll bet you'll be able to tell more difference between the top marker on the dipstick & the bottom marker than you will between a 0W20 vs a 5w20.

Caveat.... The motors likely rely on splash lubrication for the clyinder walls (unless they have oils jets - I dunno). But the bottom mark should be safe - that's why it's there.

-Saro

 

after the recall honda now recommend the new 0-20W....

My previous car 2009 fit oil cap says 05-20 now its 0-20w on my 2011 fit.

 

Saro where did you get this info? I would think more oil would run cooler than less oil. On my 95 geo prism I always fill it a half quart above the full line and I am over 150,000. Not sure I will do this on the fit ...maybe just a quarter of a quart over. Of course I am the guy that found it hard to believe 10-30 was recommended let alone 0-20 on the fit. add to that finding out replacement keys cost over a hundred....I am old but not that old!

 

I was looking around to find the differences between 0w20 and 5w20 and found that they are the same except for the temps which is colder for 0w20 than most will ever see. http://www.infineum.com/Documents/AP...ils%202010.pdf

 

When racing an old V-8 we would run up to a quart low but thats not good to do. All new Honda motors spray oil and the crank dont sit in the oil like in the old engines. Oil cools the parts and with the ivtec there is alot of oil in the cylinder head so its important to keep the oil level at the full mark. There is no difference between 0w20 and 5w20 except at -30 or colder.

 

SilverBullet-

That's really interesting that the Honda cranks don't ride down in the oil anymore. I have no service manual or anything (so didn't know for sure about the oiling system) but how deep is the sump that the crank stays out of it?

-Saro

 

In the old v8s the crank was used to throw the oil under the pistons and would fall back down on the crank too and the oil was thicker. That would reduce HP. http://racing.honda.com/hpd/images/p...ual_100217.pdf

Oil scrapers are used and the old v-8 didn't have them unless you fabricated them. If you look at the pdf file you will see that the crank sits higher with a oil scraper.

 

Silver Bullet-

If I'm not mistaken what you're looking at is the stuff to install a dry sump system on the L15 motor - especially since the motor is now approved for what used to be the Formula Ford class. But it's late, I'm tired, and I'm not reading the whole pdf!

-Saro

 

MY opinion, FWIW, Honda has probably authorized running 0w20 now to raise its CAFE standards.....hmmm, maybe the new NSX is coming

 

There is a reason, but its not all about CAFE. The temps that 0w20 is better 99 percent of people would never see. 0w20 M1 is the only oil I would consider because of past experience. I think it has to do with additives and how easy to make now compared to the past.

 

I think your right but it doesn't directly say that. I just looked it over and the last page shows the engine temps limits 212 and oil temps 284 max. So that should answer how hot the oil gets from other posts. This looks promising for after market parts now and this was a stock L1.5a7 before the upgrades.

 

Well,
My 09 says use 5-20...but car just rolled 15000 miles...i bought it used so not sure how much, or often it was done...at least 1 or 2 times....my parents hardly drove it, so it sat alot. The oil change sticker from dealership said to change it last month, but oil life meter says still has 70% left.

I am slowly going through doing maintenance....oil change is first up since I just put on some new wheels and put in a K&N filter

Then brake fluid, and maybe the plug upgrade. I have been averaging 32-34 in mixed commuting, but took a couple of 90 mile drives on highway...70 mph, cruise control, and a/c.....calculated 45 mpg on fill up....

 

i was at costco today and 0w-20 was actually 2 bux cheaper then 5w-20...

i still bought the 5w-20 tho

 

You beat me to it. Thanks for posting what is a nicer presentation of SAE J300, the motor oil viscosity standard since the 1920's.

Hopefully everyone can see that the differences between grades is just not that big. People really get hung up on these things, yet our cars dont have an oil temperature gauge. Toyota has recently gone from 5W-30 to 0W-20 in most engines, not just hybrids where it started. Bearing clearances didnt change, just future CAFE standards.

Some automakers are lobbying the SAE to add even lower viscosities to the standard, especially in HTHS, where mileage gains, and valve train wear are the most critical.

 

Changed to 0W-20 at the first oil change(8K), manual states to use 0W-20. I did my second oil change at 16K. Currently at 18K, used Mobil1 oil and filter.

 

I should be thanking you. I listen to what you said and I found out a lot. I am saving money too using the bulk oil ConocoPhillips with no problems or oil consumption.

 

2011 base model Fit w/ 5 speed auto : Honda Genuine 0w-20 ( SN/GF-5 ) which is produced by Kendall . Next oil change debating the Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 , Eneos 0w-20 , Kendall 0w-20 w/ titanium or maybe Amsoil ( true synthetic ) . Which one ? . So many good choices . Plan to get an Used Oil Analysis ( U.O.A. ) of the Honda Genuine ( Kendall ) and will post the results .

 

I would use Kendall. Its what Honda wants you to use. I am using Honda bulk oil which is Conoco(Kendall) 5w20 with no problems in my '10 Civics. Interested in your U.O.A..