Project Mad Panda - My 2010 Taffeta White GE8 Build
#301
This is the last exterior item I should be buying, authentic Mugen visors straight from Japan via rhdjapan to replace my OEM visors
I literally LOL'd when I read Lakewoods
They are exactly what I expected them to be, literally night and day difference. I can especially tell at freeway speed that the car is much more composed vs the OEM shocks. The setup is still comfortable but definitely more predictable. My OEM shocks were at 40K and had been lowered for nearly 20k of that so they were not as effective anymore.
I would definitely recommend the Koni's
I really like this new setup, the braking is much more predictable for me since I am used to a much more aggressive bite after upgrading to Brembo's on my 350Z. The pads are much better than my previous Hawks and the dust is wayyy down. I am very happy with them so far and looking forward to putting them through their paces in the canyons and TA events later in the year.
This Wilwood DPHA setup is less than $500 if you use your existing rotors so the level of performance vs price for me was well worth it.
Totally agree with your statement, the OEM brakes are more than sufficient for most people.
I literally LOL'd when I read Lakewoods
I would definitely recommend the Koni's
How does the new brakes feel Waiz? I assume it is going to be night and day difference vs oem.
I will be upgrading brakes soon but unsure what is needed for daily with a little bit of mountain runs here and there.
Waiting to hear your feedback on the new brake setup!
I will be upgrading brakes soon but unsure what is needed for daily with a little bit of mountain runs here and there.
Waiting to hear your feedback on the new brake setup!
This Wilwood DPHA setup is less than $500 if you use your existing rotors so the level of performance vs price for me was well worth it.
A good pad and tires that will let the pad do its job. In reality, that is all that is really needed. For almost 5 years I beat on mine with the stock calipers, used PMu HC+ pads and Dixcel rotors all around and I never felt as though braking was bad, never had fade or wished I had more braking prowess. I've only had the new brakes out once on Suzuka and I need to recalibrate my braking because it is so improved. They now scrub so much speed so quickly that it was detrimental more than helpful, so if you're just doing some mountain passes, save your money on the new calipers and put that towards proper rubber and pads that like to bite down hard.
#302
What about the brake fluid?
I have noticed the braking gets really bad by the end of a downhill run, literally like pushing on jello. Pretty scary in some situations.
I've read that a better fluid will allow a higher boiling point reducing brake fade is that correct?
I have noticed the braking gets really bad by the end of a downhill run, literally like pushing on jello. Pretty scary in some situations.
I've read that a better fluid will allow a higher boiling point reducing brake fade is that correct?
#303
What about the brake fluid?
I have noticed the braking gets really bad by the end of a downhill run, literally like pushing on jello. Pretty scary in some situations.
I've read that a better fluid will allow a higher boiling point reducing brake fade is that correct?
I have noticed the braking gets really bad by the end of a downhill run, literally like pushing on jello. Pretty scary in some situations.
I've read that a better fluid will allow a higher boiling point reducing brake fade is that correct?
#305
One option is to purchase the Motul, new rotors and pads and see if you like the setup for your use. If you think it's still lacking you can use buy this same setup as me and run those rotors on the larger calipers and sell your pads (the Wilwoods come with their own pads).
That's what I did except I was able to score a ridiculous deal on a set of R1 slotted/drilled rotors so I am selling my Centric blanks and Hawk HPS pads.
That's what I did except I was able to score a ridiculous deal on a set of R1 slotted/drilled rotors so I am selling my Centric blanks and Hawk HPS pads.
#306
What about stainless steel brake lines? Are they worth it? Seems like a easy, cost effective mod.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...+Kit&cat=Lines
I was thinking pads,lines,fluid,and fresh rotors to start with before going all out on calipers.
Also, when making upgrades to the front brakes alone, would that cause the brake bias to become unbalanced?
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...+Kit&cat=Lines
I was thinking pads,lines,fluid,and fresh rotors to start with before going all out on calipers.
Also, when making upgrades to the front brakes alone, would that cause the brake bias to become unbalanced?
Last edited by FittinglyFittedFit; 03-11-2015 at 09:53 PM.
#307
What about stainless steel brake lines? Are they worth it? Seems like a easy, cost effective mod.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...+Kit&cat=Lines
I was thinking pads,lines,fluid,and fresh rotors to start with before going all out on calipers.
Also, when making upgrades to the front brakes alone, would that cause the brake bias to become unbalanced?
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...+Kit&cat=Lines
I was thinking pads,lines,fluid,and fresh rotors to start with before going all out on calipers.
Also, when making upgrades to the front brakes alone, would that cause the brake bias to become unbalanced?
#309
Pics from our meet Saturday night
Another pic of my Wilwoods, will wash my car and take some better pics once I am able to get my Mugen visors installed in the next few days
Domo
SSR's are 16x7 +42 front and 16x7 +35 rear (after 5mm spacer)
Tires are 195-50-16's but will be upgraded to 205-50-16's at my next tire purchase
Another pic of my Wilwoods, will wash my car and take some better pics once I am able to get my Mugen visors installed in the next few days
Domo
SSR's are 16x7 +42 front and 16x7 +35 rear (after 5mm spacer)
Tires are 195-50-16's but will be upgraded to 205-50-16's at my next tire purchase
#311
My wheels are discountinued so if you want a set you will have to look for a used set or choose one of the wheels from SSR GT-V line
#312
True. I'm riding on tein s tech springs with oem schocks and the rides pretty bad loool. I feel like every bump and my steering wheel moves side to side from the smallest bumps and stuff. It feels pretty damn stiff but feels so harsh for my wheels. Ehh I'm sick of em and gonna get some function form type 2's
#313
True. I'm riding on tein s tech springs with oem schocks and the rides pretty bad loool. I feel like every bump and my steering wheel moves side to side from the smallest bumps and stuff. It feels pretty damn stiff but feels so harsh for my wheels. Ehh I'm sick of em and gonna get some function form type 2's
#315
I would say if I did it would be very slight. It has more to do with my aero and the angle of the parking lot for me looking lower than before
#316
Updates!
Installed my Mugen license plate bolts
Removed my OEM visors to prepare for installing my Mugen visors, ended up breaking one of the rears since it was so stuck to the door itself
I also found a solution for my Pioneer bluetooth mic, wasn't feeling how it was installed
Before:
After:
I did some digging and realized that you could use the base mount for a LED light that I found at a hardware store. I just removed the mics mounting bracket and drilled a small hole and now it's nicely tucked away and no longer blocking my cup holders
Installed my Mugen license plate bolts
Removed my OEM visors to prepare for installing my Mugen visors, ended up breaking one of the rears since it was so stuck to the door itself
I also found a solution for my Pioneer bluetooth mic, wasn't feeling how it was installed
Before:
After:
I did some digging and realized that you could use the base mount for a LED light that I found at a hardware store. I just removed the mics mounting bracket and drilled a small hole and now it's nicely tucked away and no longer blocking my cup holders
#319
It was a PITA to remove the OEM visors after 2 years. The Mugens were very easy once I figured out that the clips for the Mugen go in backwards. Mugens are easier to install than the OEM's for sure and they are installed with both clips and double-sided tape so they are very secure