Are you using LetRipp to log or something else?

It's strange... I've never noticed it on my LetRipp logs, however, I only watched the number display and not graphed it. I'm reviewing those logs with Analog 1 as a graph (need to use my laptop, since the program is bugged out on my desktop).

But in my FIC6 logs, it only breached 5v when I (re)start my car.

Do you have other mods installed?

Okay, finished watching one where it limped... Analog 1 only had an issue in the log when I shutdown and restarted the car a few seconds after limping. The log treats it as a fault when the engine isn't running (MAF gets 0v at - RPM, then 5v spike at crank).

 

This is from my logs with letrip, I use torque as well but haven't tested it from the ecu side but the out is what ecu sees threoreticly.

I have a short ram type intake and restricter in elbow is removed. I believe this make the issue more pronounced and likely the reason its in place to begin with. Also may be why Gary is so adamant about stock intake

The spike is only a a very brief moment and I can not pause it at the very moment but can see it go red on playback and am able to pause it about 4.95v just before. If you have the an1 mod map open you see the part of the map its in as well.

More data is needed but this is what I see at literally the instant of limp. Seems like stock mad is just plane saturated at sustained high rpm medium/high load. Either way this is a barrier for my setup there is simply not enough resolution to have a tune at this flow or above and since I do visit the track now few times a year this needs to be resolved.

Not sure it smt8l allows negative entries here but could add the missing fuel via extra injector... Get another maf... Bigger maf tube ....
More to come I guess
"More input Stephany!"

 

Well, checked the LetRipp log playback again... for me, the MAF voltage actually drops (from about 3.2v to 2.2v or so) the moment of limp.

That actually corresponds to the engine closing the throttle (as the TPS drops too).

The FIC logs are taken at 20ms intervals... so at the very least, it should catch the voltage leading up to the spike, if not the spike itself. That being said... my MAF (in or out) don't come close to spiking while driving. I got as high as 4.5v in one log, but it didn't limp because I was only doing a pseudo 0-60 (no actual stop watch) and not holding high rpm. Otherwise tops out at about 3.5 in normal driving (idle is under 1.5v)

Incidentally, I have stock intake with only a K&N drop-in.

As for the An1 map in LetRipp... in some logs, the selection cursor can travel into the "1s" area.. but not necessarily when it limps.

For at least my case... I still think it's a fuel issue. To be precise, the fuel pressure dropping over time. For a while, it was better with the new DW265c fuel pump, but I keep running back into the issue of the O-rings moving and letting fuel past it. In normal driving, its not an issue since the pump is strong. But at sustained high RPM, it still can't keep up the pressure due to some of it being lost through the O-ring (takes longer than stock pump before it limps). The other issue is that when parked over night, the fuel empties out of the fuel line (leading to long crank times if I don't wait for the pump to prime the line). Need to figure something out one of these days.

 

Interesting, did you Repin your harness yet?

For my case this is the cause of the limps I've recorded so far, and I'm well into the 1's on the map, you should be too for the high rpm limp mode issue. Unless you changed your map the upper rpm band is all 1's

If you search for maxed out maf in google you'll see nothing but limp issues on any platform

Your right about our issues being different I'm not seeing issues with fuelling yet I've added fuel through injector 5 though and maf pegs before any fuel issues are noticed.
This is on the road map for me as well though to address fueling I'd ideally like to have everything there running well bellow capacity.

I'm very methodical about trouble shooting, its what I do for a living after all and I'm very good at it. Key is take the emotions and guessing out and react to what can be observed. Replacing parts and fixing what may not be broke based on assumptions and guessing can be expensive and fruitless and that's NOT a dig on you my friend just my view in general.

I commend you Goober for your efforts, contribution and commitment to this endeavor and everyone else here for that matter... OK so maybe not on the commitment aspect for some others but I understand this is more involved than most of you bargained for.

I do also believe that if I replace the inlet restrictor and stock airbox I would be fine, but that's is not how I roll. I see it as moving backwards. Anyone installing a SC TO A FIT in my mind at least is not looking for stock setups.

Also I concede my "hot air intake" is probly less than ideal but was done because I LIKE to hear the intake noise. This is being addressed with the maf issue as with all added tourqe my intake smacks the ecu even adjusted as far as I can get it. This is symptom of stock tourqe mount being over taxed as well, even stock it was an issue causing wheel hop. Koni orange struts have done much for this issue but this engine is getting whiplash for sure now.

I don't see a bright future for this product at least until its revised here in US and seems Gary has moved on for time being to greener pastures. I do hope he re-engages this however for the sake of the fit sprinted community who will be swiping up these second hand and old stock SC's

 

I did do the re-pin, but ended up with a different issue. It wouldn't work without my laptop plugged in (instant limp on start up without laptop). This issue started when I drove through a flooded section of road (deeper than I had thought). I was able to get by with a simple USB "charging" cable from the cig adapter... until I did the re-pin. That's when I had to specifically keep my laptop plugged into the SMT to start and keep the car running, otherwise limp.

After that, along with the new fuel pump, I cut the intercepts for RPM and MAF, then re-attached the wires back to stock. I left the other four wires alone since they weren't intercepts, just taps.

In place of the SMT, I have the FIC6 with Boomslang harness, except... with just zero maps. So, for all practical purposes, I'm running without piggyback control. Fit's ECU is handling everything.

On my maps, the 1s aren't at the upper RPM range... they're at the upper TPS range (all to the right half). None of the maps I have are like you describe (stock, church tune or conservative tune).

Personally, I don't like the 5th injector idea anymore... as someone else pointed out, the issue is that with the injector not being in any given port, you can't know where all that fuel is going. And that can throw off the "fine detail" of port injection. I mean, if that extra air goes into the 1st port at the same time the engine detected knock... there could be too much gas. Then again, the gas could just as easily go to the 4th port... or spread across 2, 3 & 4. The most likely scenario is that the middle two get slightly more than the outer two during boost since the blower is right between the them. However, during idle, the bypass is open and at one end of the manifold, closer to one port than any other.

In any case, while I have managed to peg the injectors a few times, it generally stays well under the "80%" threshold people talk about.

As for replacing parts... well, the SMT got fried so there's no helping that. And fuel pump wise, I still think it's a pressure issue. Because it doesn't make sense that I can rev up to redline without issue, but if I hold 4k in 4th gear, I limp after a time (when most things have leveled out and not needing more).

Sometimes, even that doesn't make sense to me either... I don't know.

As for your intake... I have no idea. You could try installing the FIC and use the MAF clamp feature in it.

 

I'm right there with you on the 5th injector, similar issue seen by high powered carborated engines. To get max power sometimes you'll see tuners looking at cylinder temps to see if fuel is running down one and not another, then installing custom bafles for effected runners getting the most fuel.
We have many differences obviously to those setups, but just illustrating the point.

Your right about the an1 mod table, I'm just saying its the upper portion of that right hand side. Yes its called tps position but it is not, it is based off maf signal as well. If you recall there was no step to tap any tps wires.

I also think your referring to the "map clamp" the fic6 has, typical for turbo applications as the intake is presureized unlike our setup where pressure is seen only south of the blower.

 

The FIC6 can do MAF clamp.

As for the TPS vs MAP/MAF, I guess you're right about the lack of TPS tap.

 

That was a bust. The bolt I ordered was labelled as M13 on both Amazon and the 3rd party seller's site (Probolt)... but it had a description of it having 14mm diameter, which I was hoping was just a webpage typo.

It is indeed, 14mm and no good for the supercharger.

I'm gonna try to hunt some more for an M13 bolt... worst case scenario, take it to get it bored out/widened to fit an M14.

 

do you have hardware hank or ace hardware stores nearby? or home depot or lowes?

 

I went to Home Depot... but when they didn't have anything that matched, I didn't bother checking other stores (I figured if HD didn't have it, chances are likely no one else would). Next time I'm awake early enough or Monday comes around, whichever first, I'll give the other shops a shot, in case they do have it.

Got an email from Gary about it, and a mention that Jeep's kit were redesigned a bit dealing with the fill/drain holes. He says it's a BSPT drain plug... not sure how difficult it'll be to find. Are bspt parts slightly over/undersized? Wondering if a 1/2" BSPT would be big enough, as the current drain bolt is slightly bigger than the typical 1/2" bolt.

 

So what size M13 bolt do you need? 13mm?

 

Well, if M12 which is supposed to be 12 mm is too small and M14 (14mm?) is too big, then I think 13mm is the only thing left. I say this because I couldn't actually compare it to a 13mm anything... HD only had 12 and 14mm. And doing Google shows 13mm is super rare (un-used).

I found this... . Hope this one works better than the last, otherwise, I'll have to use teflon tape or loctite sealer.

 

It's way too damn long.

The important part is, its supposedly 1/2" fine thread bolt. Which is weird, cause when I was checking at HD, I brought in the bolt from the supercharger and it wouldn't fit the size checker for 1/2" find thread there.

In any case, I knew it was longer than the original bolt, but I had hoped it would go in enough to use a washer... but it barely got halfway. Perhaps, this is the T in BSPT that Gary told me about. Of course, another worry was that it might reach the gears themselves, but since the drainage hole was offset near an edge, I hoped it just open space there... guess that's one worry I didn't get to.

When I bought the bolt, I also bought a roll of teflon (okay, the actual name is PTFE) tape... and ended up using it. But, just how much am I supposed to put?!? I tried wrapping it only 3 or 4 times but it shredded itself pretty quickly and it didn't feel any different from before (ie, it would still be able to go too deep without any effort). And oil did indeed still leak slightly.

So I ended up wrapping it like 10 times or something. I finally started feeling some tightness as the bolt started to get flushed. Sure, it didn't take much effort to go past it, but I felt at least this was SOMETHING. I did the same with the fill bolt and the dip stick. It didn't seem like it was leaking this time... we'll see tomorrow if it's still leaking.

Incidentally, even LESS oil came out this time than the first time I opened it...

 

Bnpt is like npt (national pipe thread) but British is different thread.
I checked it with a thread gauge and it was BETWEEN 1.25 and 1.5 so one MAY fit but likely do damage.

You sizes sound about right as 13mm is about 1/2"

At this point I would get some one to drill and tap the hole with a 14mm thread of your choice.

 

Well... it's still leaking... albeit much, MUCH slower than before. It seems even an overuse of tape was insufficient... I hope this lasts me a few more weeks, that's when the bolts I ordered, the other week, should arrive (from UK!!!).

Oh, I used the tape on the original bolts. I tossed the bolt I bought from ACE to the side somewhere in my garage.

 

why cant you just go to ace hardware, hardware hanks, home depot, or lowes and grab the proper bolt?

Ive found some very strange and weird bolts necessary to help buddies on their Audi's and BMW's, and the occasional BMW motorcycle

 

Neither HD nor ACE had the right size. I brought the original into HD and the size checker didn't match anything. I even looked around at the shelves and nothing looked like it would be close to short enough too.

At ACE, I had one of the employees help me and the only bolt he managed to find was an inch long (while I need it to be only 1 cm or so). There were a couple of headless bolts that came close to the size, but they would defeat the entire purpose of my visit... to find a bolt WITH a head (to use a washer).

I've never heard of Hardware Hanks. That one might be region specific to you.

As for Lowes... I don't really like them. Typically anything I could find there, I can also find at HD (and cheaper at that). If I find myself with some available time, I might drop by Lowes, to humor you.

 

so you found the correct bolt, but simply too long?


Why dont you just grind it down? or have a machinist do it?

 

I wouldn't say its the correct bolt.

The thing is, the original bolt can go in further, to the point where I thought it was going to "unbolt" on the inside of the case (which would be disastrous). The bolt from ACE stops a little short (barely the length of the original bolt), which implies that the "fitting" changed... and like I said earlier, this seems to be the T in BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper). I'm fairly certain the bolt from ACE is not a BSPT bolt.

That means that the bolt I got is only really holding any threads near the tip of the bolt and the rest of it a barely touching threads. And for the same reason you don't want only one or two threads holding on wheels bolts, I'd rather have something that properly fits.

Which explains why my size checking didn't work.

edit: Then again, thinking about it... it doesn't make much sense for the original bolt... if it's tapered, it should stop similarly.

 

Been stupid busy lately haven't been online at all really.

I did fix the high rpm limp mode with my car, by installing and tuning with the FIC 6 ;-)

Just this weekend I installed my wideband, rdx injectors and hollowed my cat.
Had to start from square 1 with the tune even with the injector scaling feature, but will be worth it.
I found it best to just zero out the fuel map then apply the injector size scale the add a little up top you know you need. This gets is running good enough to get around while you fine tune things.
Have to say the rdx injectors respond much more to adding fuel compared to stock. The stock injectors were hitting 100% up top though with 10 psi to redline.

Also made a new 2.5" maf housing as well stock price narrows down to about 2" at sensor and was bouncing of 5 volts sometimes in second and always in third at WOT. Had to scale the maf reading up in low and part throttle then taper back to 0% up top with it clamped at 4.95 volts. You can still trigger limp with the maf clamp if you don't dropped your scaling up top. ECU sees the input rise but output hold and throws an "input to high code".

Forgot to mention what pushed me to the AEM FIC 6, I bricked the SMT8L!
Will say though after the letripp crapware the FIC is cake to use with software that just works and more intuitive/logical flow to the app. Sure, it is lacking some feature that should be staples like temp sensor input/s, timing advance ext... But I do get to play with my VTEC engagement point at least. Most other feature can be had on the FIC 8 though including boost control.