Hi Chriz,
Yes, I wish we live close by, I could help you with the brake etc. and you could help me with tuning the AEM F/IC-6

The Rigid Collar install is not too bad because I need to take out those front knuckle, Lower Arm and also rear axle anyway to install my front and rear brakes... it do help a lot with more solid feeling,
I have my review about the rigid collar somewhere on the Brembo thread...

Regarding bushing on your stock suspension...
well, I want to sell my front lower control arm and their bushing is still in very good condition since it had only about 30,000 miles when I replace them with aluminum control arm from Honda Insight,
here is the for sale thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ntrol-arm.html

I also want to sell my USDM Sport Rear Axle and it's bushing also still in very good condition because it have about 33,000 miles when I replace them with my current JDM Fit RS rear axle...
here is the for sale thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...axle-assy.html

please email me if you are interested

 

Time to replace the EBC Brake pads,
I always use the GreenStuff because it is softer so the rear rotor will last longer,
plus I don't want to use the YellowStuff since I don't want too much rear brake bias that will lock the rear tire...

but of course the EBC greenstuff look out of place with the yellow caliper
so I paint them yellow today

Need to wait 7 days for the paint to cure before I can install them:

 

Time flew very fast and after many happy powerful braking miles
and 3 rear pads replacement, My rear rotor finally worn out.

Replacement rotor from Coleman Racing just arrived today, I modify the size just a tiny bit larger diameter (now 13.18" vs. previous 13.08" diameter) to fit the brake pad surface better.
I will paint the inner surface of the rotor later (the one that is not in contact with the pads) black to make it look nice and prevent corrosion.

 

Last night, I painted the center part of the disc brake rotor first with Primer, High Temperature and then coat it with Black High Temperature Paint to prevent corrosion, and to make it looks larger
I leave it overnight to dry.

Today, I heat the disc brake rotor in oven at 250F, 400F and 600F (each for 30 minutes with 30 minutes cooling down time in between the heat cycle) to cure the paint.

 

I just finished replacing the rear rotor, started this morning , taking my time, making sure everything is correct.

Old rotor, the slot almost worn out:





Release the 2 bolts that hold the parking brake cable bracket then remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper:





Then remove the brake rotor and Wilwood Hat from the hub, my rear hub had not rust at all, Loctite silver grade anti seize really work:





Cut the safety wire, heat it with heat gun (because I use Loctite 262 Red High Strengh so I need to heat it before I can take out the bolts), after that I took out all the bolts one by one, and finally rotors and hat separated again:




Apply PB blaster to help loosen up the bolts:












Check the thickness of the used rotor, 8.19mm, so it is time to replace (new is 9mm and JDM Honda Fit RS manual say, 8mm is the min thickness):





Check the new rotor thickness just to make sure





Time to bolt the new rotor to the hat, for safety I buy new sets of Bolts from Wilwood. The new bolts color is black the old one is silver:





Use Loctite, tighten to 25ft-lb per Wilwood spec and use safety wire again with the safety wire tools to make sure the winding is uniform:






Apply Loctite Silver Grade Anti Seize on the hub before I install the rotor, use brake caliper grease on the new EBC brake pads:




Check the top side of the EBC brake pad and now it perfectly match with the rotor outer surface, this is because I order slightly larger rotor at 13.18" vs 13.08" on the old rotor.
with the old rotor, the top side of the EBC brake pad do not touch any rotor causing very small area of uneven wear on the top side of the EBC brake pad,... now no more




Tighten all the screw according to Torque Spec and... Finally FINISH




All I need is to drive the car, and the brake pad will automatically cut the paint to create a perfectly round boundary between the painted part and the friction surface part of the rotor

 

Just drive around the block to test and make sure no drag on the rotor, now the black paint boundary is perfectly round, but I guess I need to drive more before it peeled it completely

 

OP, you are my hero! thank you SO MUCH for your continued efforts with detailed and informative posts, and awesome pictures/documentation

I hope one day, you move onto a GK5 and do all of this wonderful stuff to it =)




SIDE NOTE, $1.49/lb for tilapia tho!

 

Hello evilchargerfan,
Thanks so much for your kind words, it is very nice to get a Positive Response from other member of FitFreak
I also enjoyed your post and your passion with your GK5