Despite claims that the FastBrakes Honda Fit drum to disk brake conversion would not work on the second generation Honda Fit GE, I went ahead and purchased the kit. I pickup the brake conversion kit from FedEx this morning. Initial test fit show that the FastBrakes drum to disk brake conversion is applicable for the second generation Honda Fit GE. The adapter brackets mount to the two rear most hole as seen in the photographs below. Installation is simple bolt-on after removing all the drum brake components. A pair of parking brakes are also include in the kit. The disk brake conversion kit weight about 40 lbs and includes all the necessary mounting hardware.

 

nice job!!

 

Aren't those 11" rotors in the rear? Did you do anything with the fronts?

Very Nice, my next mod.

 

Yeah, that rear brake rotor is 11 inches. My front brakes setup is still stock. Eventually I will swapped them out for the FastBrakes 11” economy big brake kit. But for now I am going to leave it alone since the front brake rotors were recently change at 90K miles and my car has 98K miles. I will probably do my tires at ~ 120K miles then the Fastbrakes 11 inches economy big brake kit.

 

Very nice.

How much did that cost you?

 

$825 for the 2007-2011 Honda Fit rear drum to 11" disc conversion from Fastbrakes. Shipping was around $56 to Tampa FL.

 

Holy shtttt... It works???

 

Steven, Thanks for taking risks like this for the community, but dang-it I'm going to have to get these now too!

Also I see you got some Bilsteins TOO! I would love to hear your opinions on those too sometime.

 

How is the brake bias? Did it shift greatly rear ward with OEM front brake set up.

 

I won’t know until the end of the week when I have time to install a Honda CRZ brake master cylinder. My car is sitting on 4 safety stands waiting for me to finish up

 

Heaven at last! Prayers are answered! Lol

Thanks Steven for taking the plunge on this, very good news.

 

This looks like an awesome upgrade. I would be interested to hear how the braking feels once you get everything together.

 

I wonder if there is a 5 lug rear rotor they can sell me to match the kit... Off to email them now!

 

The Fastbrakes rear drum to disc brake conversion is straight forward bolt-on for the adapter plate, the calipers and the stainless steel brake lines. I spent time cutting and prepping the back drum plate because I didn't want to use the aluminum spacer rings in the kit. The hand brake cables routing and adjustment took time. It took several road test attempts to adjust the hand brake to ensure the rear calipers are not engaged when the hand brake is not applied. Routing the hand brake lines without binding the cable took some trail and error. Brakes feel soft in the initial test drive immediately after the conversion even after bleeding the brake system 3 times with ATE Super Blue. I have gotten enough seat time for two bedding cycles to bed the brake pads and the rotors. Brake feel and modulation are definite better. The front and rear brake proportion seem to be fine with the stock brake master cylinder. I have a used Honda C-RZ master cylinder to replace the stock. After removing the stock master cylinder I found the brake hard lines are two small at 3/4”. Honda C-RZ master cylinder are 13/16”. An adapter will be need to install the Honda C-RZ brake master cylinder. The Honda C-RZ brake master cylinder is sitting on the shelf.



I do like the Bilstein PSS coil-over a lot. It is firmer, tighter without the sloppiness of the the stock suspension. Corning is flatter than before. I didn't keep the Bilstein factory height setting. After setting my reference index marks on the adjustment collar and on the shock body with paint dot, I rotated the collar 12 times. Front shocks were rotated 12 times up from the lowest setting. Rear shocks were rotated 12 times down from the highest setting. Double check the height with a tape measure to confirm both driver side and passenger side are the same. Initially I rotated the collar 6 times and found the front too low and the rear too high. 12 rotation seem to put me somewhere in the middle.

 

One annoyance with my Fit is the way it nosedives when I hit the brakes hard. I thought that might be because all of the braking power is in front. If so, this should help that, right?

 

Pretty sure its the suspension springs causing that...

 

My car did that with my old worn suspension. It would nose dive under braking and squat during acceleration before taking off. The Bilstein PSS fixed that problems. My car no longer squat, hesitate before taking off. It just sprint off the line. Braking have improve greatly after beating on it for two days and stopping distance seems to have shorten. I wonder how much improvement would the Fastbrakes 11” economy big brake kit with the Type R caliper be. Brake pedal feel has improved a little. It still has that squashy not quite solid feel to the brake pedal since the car was new. I was hoping that the Honda C-RZ brake master cylinder would fix it. Unfortunately it is not a direct bolt-on.

My driver side CV axle took a dump. Lot of vibration under acceleration. Grease are everywhere but without a torn CV boot. I can turn the axle shaft by hand and watch it wobble. Yeah, really bad luck with the driver side. The lower control arm ball joint went bad and squeaks. That was one motivation to install a new suspension and a new LCA. Now I have to decide Honda OEM axle shaft, after market axle shaft or or I might go cheap and pull the CV axle shaft out and have a shop rebuild it locally if the splines are good. I never have any experience with after market CV axle shaft.

The spline on the transmission side is still good. There is no tranny fluid leak from the CV axle shaft. I will drop off the CV axle shaft at the shop in Clearwater for rebuild.

BTW anyone know if the LCA worn ball joint be press out for a new one.

 

Here is my rebuilt driver side axle shaft back from Dependable Driveshaft in Clearwater FL. Driver side axle shaft was dropped off yesterday afternoon and pickup at around noon today for a quick turn around. There was average damage to the tranny side cv joint. I had both cv joints done for $96. This coming winter when I drop the tranny to install a new clutch among other transmission modification, I will have the passenger side axle shaft rebuild. The car feel much better without the axle shaft vibrating to pieces.

 

Do you know what rotor he used? I know the calipers are from an rsx. Also, do you have a better pic of the conversion bracket?

Thanks.

 

Is the weight of the disc conversion kit comparable to the stock drums or is there some weight savings? How are they performing so far?

Thanks