Bump steer correction steering gearbox Shims for Extended Ball Joint installed Fit
#1
Bump steer correction steering gearbox Shims for Extended Ball Joint installed Fit
After installing the HardRace Extended Ball Joint (RCA), there was very noticeable bump steer on bumpy roads. Because of the design of our Fit's steering knuckle, the tie rod ball joint cannot be extended downwards like the LCA's ball joint, hence why bump steer kits for most other vehicles include both the LCA and the tie rod extended ball joint sold as a set, whilst there are only aftermarket Extended Ball Joint for our LCA.
If you can't lower the ball joint on the knuckle end of the tie rod, then alternatively you can try raising the power steering gearbox end to achieve the same result geometrically. However it is more complicated as there may be issues of space above the steering gearbox, steering column angle and the gearbox attachment screw brace.
The Hardrace LCA RCA extended the ball joint by approximately 10mm From the knuckle, so I thought a 8mm rise of the steering rack should be good height to alleviate the bump steer.
I had some 7075 T6 Aluminum lathed to 8mm and 4mm thick with a 10mm diameter hole drilled
They were then Hard Coat Anodized and dyed black
Car Raised and the Front subframe lowered (just enough to remove the steering gearbox screws)
Slide the Steering Gearbox Shims into place. The gearbox attachment screw brace hole bracing the sides need to be slightly elongated with a dremel
Click for large pic
Click for large pic
Click for large pic
Some pics showing clearance of the power steering motor and cables
And the final front suspension geometry
Click for large pic
After installation, and making sure nothing was interfering, and that the steering wheel turned from side to side smoothly, I did a quick aliment (which showed that raising the steering rack caused the wheels to toe in, as the tie rod was originally angled up towards the knuckles, and raising the steering gearbox causes the steering tie rods to push out slightly as it rests at a more level angle), and went out for a drive. I was thrilled to find that the bump steer has been completely eliminated, or at least to a level that I can no longer detect it.
The whole DIY install took around 3 hours, as I took my time cleaning all the subframe joint surfaces and screws. The cost was around $5 for the material, $40 for the machining, $7 for the anodizing, and $35 for renting the car lift space. Totaling to around $100 including gas.
Absolutely worthwhile mod if you have the RCA Extended Ball Joint installed. Not having to sacrifice by enduring bump steer for roll control is priceless. Would do it again in a heartbeat.
Thanks for reading! let me know if there's any questions.
If you can't lower the ball joint on the knuckle end of the tie rod, then alternatively you can try raising the power steering gearbox end to achieve the same result geometrically. However it is more complicated as there may be issues of space above the steering gearbox, steering column angle and the gearbox attachment screw brace.
The Hardrace LCA RCA extended the ball joint by approximately 10mm From the knuckle, so I thought a 8mm rise of the steering rack should be good height to alleviate the bump steer.
I had some 7075 T6 Aluminum lathed to 8mm and 4mm thick with a 10mm diameter hole drilled
They were then Hard Coat Anodized and dyed black
Car Raised and the Front subframe lowered (just enough to remove the steering gearbox screws)
Slide the Steering Gearbox Shims into place. The gearbox attachment screw brace hole bracing the sides need to be slightly elongated with a dremel
Click for large pic
Click for large pic
Click for large pic
Some pics showing clearance of the power steering motor and cables
And the final front suspension geometry
Click for large pic
After installation, and making sure nothing was interfering, and that the steering wheel turned from side to side smoothly, I did a quick aliment (which showed that raising the steering rack caused the wheels to toe in, as the tie rod was originally angled up towards the knuckles, and raising the steering gearbox causes the steering tie rods to push out slightly as it rests at a more level angle), and went out for a drive. I was thrilled to find that the bump steer has been completely eliminated, or at least to a level that I can no longer detect it.
The whole DIY install took around 3 hours, as I took my time cleaning all the subframe joint surfaces and screws. The cost was around $5 for the material, $40 for the machining, $7 for the anodizing, and $35 for renting the car lift space. Totaling to around $100 including gas.
Absolutely worthwhile mod if you have the RCA Extended Ball Joint installed. Not having to sacrifice by enduring bump steer for roll control is priceless. Would do it again in a heartbeat.
Thanks for reading! let me know if there's any questions.
Last edited by eternal_fantasy; 06-11-2015 at 02:06 AM. Reason: Added larger pictures
#2
Had the chance to check my current bump toe angle, and it was pretty much perfect:
At normal ride height: 0 toe in
At full wheel droop: 5mm combined toe in
(Originally it was over 40mm combined toe in at full droop after RCA installation and alignment...)
Could not hope for a better result with my first time guestimated steering rack shim height!
At normal ride height: 0 toe in
At full wheel droop: 5mm combined toe in
(Originally it was over 40mm combined toe in at full droop after RCA installation and alignment...)
Could not hope for a better result with my first time guestimated steering rack shim height!
Last edited by eternal_fantasy; 07-07-2015 at 11:41 AM.
#5
Thanks! It is nice to have a local machine shop willing to do one off jobs, although he isn't shy when it comes to quotes... Let me just say you aren't saving money fabricating parts yourself.
But when no one makes what you need... if there's a will, there's a way!
But when no one makes what you need... if there's a will, there's a way!
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