Thanks a lot man!

 

Im wondering if you have to trim the top and bottom of the shroud or did you trim the top more? I want to know because if the top and bottom needs to be trimmed I would just get the Apollo 2 flat shroud. Please let me know.

 

For your Blinker running as DRL have you thought about running a HOT wire with a male connector to the positive side of the Fuse #25 for DRL. You can use a test light and see which side positive with the engine on. =)

 

I had to trim the top and bottom of the shrouds.
I'm assuming fuse #25 is powered only when the daylight sensor senses light and therefore the LED's wouldn't be on at night in that case. If I can wire to an ignition source they will always be on as long as the car is running.

 

Love the look of the blacked out headlights!

I am currently waiting on parts to be delivered to do a retro on my GE.

Did you know about the Mini Gatling shrouds? They are supposed to be smaller than any "average" shroud out there and made specifically for the H1 and D2S projectors. I know it's too late for you but this might be good info for others that will be doing retros.

Also, The Retrofit Source sells the adjustment screw things that stripped out on you. Again, prob good info for other people, lol.

 

I don't see a option for the mini gatling shroud for this kit maybe it doesn't fit? Im thinking to get the appollo 2 flat shroud so I don't have to do too much trimming. What are your thought on that?

 

I assume you're referring to the square Apollo 2? Could be a better fit. Note that they are for the new square ds2 and won't fit the round ones.

 

Actually they are the flat shrouds appollo 2.0, flat on top and bottom and is cricle. Im not sure if that's gonna work unless the projector fits right in the middle. But on Superfly picture it looks like he trimmed the top more than the bottom.


Apollo 2.0 - Projector Shrouds from The Retrofit Source Inc

 

Ah, ok. I bet they'll still need a little trimming. Yes, the top did need more trimming than the bottom.

 

I just finished installing the projectors in the headlights. The Apollo 2 flat doesn't need trimming. I know what you mean by the cutoff slopes I was surprised about this. I don't think this is normal because I had cars with projectors and the cutoff was straight throughout. I'll post up some pictures when I get the headlight adjusted.

 

Also where did you end up tapping your power for your V3 DRL? I just ordered a set and want to use it for DRL since I disable the DRL for the HIDs.

 

sloping cutoff isnt normal for the round D2S. it is normal for the square one.

 

Yup that's one thing I don't like about the square lens

 

I may have missed this in your thread, but did you get the 35watt ballast or 55watt ballast? Also, did you get the 'Canbus H4' harness or 'MotoControl Bixenon H4' harness?

 

hi payluder,

just wanted to confirm, but the D2S kit w/ flat Apollo 2.0 shrouds don't need to be trimmed at all? do you have any pics?

 

Hi Tofu


I got the Moto control box and the 5five ballast. One thing I need to mention and its pretty scary is that when using autolgiht while driving and the auto lights kicks on, my engine freaking cut off. One time I was driving up into my garage and as soon as I enter the dark part and auto light turn on the hid my engine completely died. Last night when I went out to pick up food around 6:30 going 35mph and the lights auto turn on my engine cut off but didn't die completely since I was going at a higher speed. I guess it dead but since I was going fast it jump started back up. This is pretty scary since I drive my kids around. I called retro source and Charlie told me It could be something with my car not with their HID and I ask him about the canbus relay and was told thats only for european cars and my car is japanese I should be good with the motocontrol. Also he told we to recheck my ground wire which I will do later tonight. Its funny because when I manually turn the hid on while car is running I got no problem, the only thing that is bad is auto light position is right before the manually so if I don't turn the lights on fast enough the auto light will cut my engine off if its dark outside. Someone please give me some input.

 

Here is the photo


10734189_10202973653524124_3989228298011739599_n by johnny121010, on Flickr


1912144_10202973653724129_1043635461213081630_n by johnny121010, on Flickr

 

Same thing happens to me. I have the 35w lights. I've noticed it's only when the ballasts are first energized for the day meaning when I turn the lights on in the morning or night for the first time. It also seems to be only if I turn the lights on right after starting the car. If I let the car run for 20 seconds of so and then turn the lights on it won't do it. Also if I drive, then stop somewhere, get back in the car after a few minutes it won't do it. Perhaps there are capacitors in the ballasts that really suck the energy when they're spent but if they've been on recently they still have enough juice for that initial firing.
I was thinking about adding a capacitor to the system. It would help my stereo AND I'd be willing to bet it would stop the engine cutout.

 

I don't think a cap will help with this issue unless the ballast is power from the cap first. Do you think that maybe upgrade the battery will help? We need more input in this. I can't be driving around afraid of the dark and hoping my HID doesn't turn on while Im driving.

 

I don't see why a cap wouldn't help since it runs in series with the electrical system. It will give the extra boost when needed. I wonder if there is a gel cell replacement for our puny battery.