Which fuse for retrofit DRL?
#1
Which fuse for retrofit DRL?
Hi all,
For anyone who has retrofitted their headlamps with projectors and included a DRL, how did you tap yours for power? The only fuse that I could find that gets power when the car is on was the one labeled LAF (Air Fuel sensor). It worked fine for a few drives, but then when i locked my car using my remote, my DRLs stayed powered on. I ended up disconnecting them since they didnt shut off after a few minutes.
Aside from tapping my corner lights wire, or running a wire through my firewall into the cabin to use the stock DRL fuse spot, are there any other options? I wasn't able to think of anything else.
Thanks
For anyone who has retrofitted their headlamps with projectors and included a DRL, how did you tap yours for power? The only fuse that I could find that gets power when the car is on was the one labeled LAF (Air Fuel sensor). It worked fine for a few drives, but then when i locked my car using my remote, my DRLs stayed powered on. I ended up disconnecting them since they didnt shut off after a few minutes.
Aside from tapping my corner lights wire, or running a wire through my firewall into the cabin to use the stock DRL fuse spot, are there any other options? I wasn't able to think of anything else.
Thanks
#2
One of the underhood relays should be the fuel pump relay. I've tapped off its
input wire before to trigger a dedicated relay for another accessory that needed to run all the time when the car was on.
I'd avoid any wire that sources or feeds the computer..
Cheers
input wire before to trigger a dedicated relay for another accessory that needed to run all the time when the car was on.
I'd avoid any wire that sources or feeds the computer..
Cheers
#3
i figured the AF sensor would be a safer bet. i think im going to find a way to snake a wire into the cabin (probably through the firewall) and use the oem DRL fuse spot. that's probably the safest option
#6
I considered re-using the oem dr. fuse when I did my projector retrofit however, wouldn't using that fuse re-engage the oem drl which is wired to the headlights and cause the headlights to go on whenever the car is on?
I
I
#7
It did not, only the halo lights up. However, now i am having an issue that keeps blowing the fuse randomly. I may have a kink in the line somewhere or the oem drl fuse does not like the voltage from my LED halos. Haven't had time to try and solve the issue yet
#9
Have you considered using a relay kit for your DRLs?
On the retrofit I did on my old BMW I did this to avoid damaging any of the expensive electrical components even though the LED's draw a very small current.
I have a DRL project planned out for the future when I have time to draft the components on CAD and then water jet the acrylic, but this is how I plan to do the electrical part of it.
Use an add-a-fuse tap to the front accessory sockets (this is a 20A fuse in our cars) I tapped it for my radar and it works flawlessly so I'm sure it could handle a DRL trigger. I used a 15A fuse for the line going to the radar. This is in addition to the inline escort fuse but better safe than sorry.
For the second trigger wire, I plan to run a wire tap to the dome light power (this has the fade on and off effect with the fob so you can ogle at it or show off.) The wire can be tucked away along with the radar wires.
Here's a link to what the remote fade feature looks like (pretty cool IMHO)
And here's how to do the wiring except you won't tap into the non-existent footwell lights in our car, you'll tap to the dome or map light.
Those guys are air-heads so bear with them.
Hope this helped!
On the retrofit I did on my old BMW I did this to avoid damaging any of the expensive electrical components even though the LED's draw a very small current.
I have a DRL project planned out for the future when I have time to draft the components on CAD and then water jet the acrylic, but this is how I plan to do the electrical part of it.
Use an add-a-fuse tap to the front accessory sockets (this is a 20A fuse in our cars) I tapped it for my radar and it works flawlessly so I'm sure it could handle a DRL trigger. I used a 15A fuse for the line going to the radar. This is in addition to the inline escort fuse but better safe than sorry.
For the second trigger wire, I plan to run a wire tap to the dome light power (this has the fade on and off effect with the fob so you can ogle at it or show off.) The wire can be tucked away along with the radar wires.
Here's a link to what the remote fade feature looks like (pretty cool IMHO)
And here's how to do the wiring except you won't tap into the non-existent footwell lights in our car, you'll tap to the dome or map light.
Those guys are air-heads so bear with them.
Hope this helped!
Last edited by 328isawesome; 09-09-2016 at 08:52 PM.
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