Hi all, I just hit a milestone in my 10-day old Fit: 1,000 miles on the odo as of last night. Luckily I was able to snag a picture. Many hundreds more please!

I have read over and over that you shouldn't change the break in oil early, and I'm wondering if anybody can shed any light on why? It seems like a good idea to change it early as I imagine there are a lot of metal shavings in it from the new engine. Is this faulty logic?

Is there any damage to be done with an early oil change, or is it more for cost saving reasons that they say you don't need to change it? I was thinking of doing it around 2,000 miles, and then following the Minder after that.

I also want to use full synthetic, so if you have any thoughts or cautions about that, feel free to throw in your $0.02.

 

Break in oil is a semi myth. No real proof either way. Honda breaks the engines in for the most part from the factory. I've had about 5 new cars, I generally do the 1st oil change at 1000 with a quality convential, then another oil change at 3000 which is when I switch to synthetic. Engines don't take super long to break in, especially a modern engine that has super close tolerance as it is. I'm sure you're good to go by now

 

I have a 2010 and changed oil at 3250 miles. Used royal purple 5-20. Then they switched their formula so now I use their hps series 5-20. I get 40+ mpg with spirited driving. Also have k&n intake, t1r cat delete, magnaflow 2 1/2 inch cat back exhaust and use premium 92 octane fuel so not sure if thats where mpg comes from. Also when I changed break in oil out there was some metal particulates in it so might be good idea to change early as I believe honda recommendations are for cost savings not engine life.

 

Using a higher octane fuel will not improve gas mileage, common myth.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane...n_and_knocking

 

Regardless of whether it is break in oil or not, I don't see the purpose of changing before you need to. Metal shavings are most likely attracted to the plug which I assume has a magnet on it and the filter does the rest to keep metal from transporting to other parts of the engine. Its under warranty and they even say change when the minder tells you. You won't hurt anything by changing at 1000 or 3000 whatever but with the cost of oil why waste money? There is always the fact that during an oil change depending oh how long the engine sits without oil in the pan that it can drain back and when started could possibly create a no lubrication period. Regardless of how short that time frame is it would still be a starvation.

 

Hondas do not have magnetized drain plugs so whatever metal comes off sits in your pan

 

..........

 

Well, thats disturbing! That sounds like something gm would do to save .02c
The solution to that is either replace the plug with a magnetic or get one of those strong earth magnets and stick it to the side or bottom of your pan to keep the metal from floating.

 

my question is why do it early?


i know... old farts with their metal shavings blah blah blah


just follow the manufacturer maintenance schedule.

 

Mainly because I can imagine only benefits to removing oil contaminated with new engine metal shavings from the system. I started this thread thinking maybe there are some tangible drawbacks to an early first oil change and wanted a definitive answer. So far, it seems more financial than anything.

If the only draw back is spending $25 or $30 on oil/filter that may not be necessary, I can live with that; $30 won't make or break me, and if it is of any benefit to my $20,000, decade+ long investment, I'd rather do it. I feel like saving the owners that initial $30 was/is the driving logic behind Honda and others saying not to do it early, and that doesn't seem like a great reason IMO.

 

Exactly m_x. Piece of mind knowing my investment is well maintained even if its overkill. I change my oil every four thousand miles with royal purple hps 5w 20 and I use a Fram ultra filter

 

I only buy cars that have an oil filtration system installed. It cuts down on the amount of metal shavings in the system. A few bucks for a fresh oil filter at each oil change isn't a big deal.

 

I agree that there is not a scientific reason to not change it and basically financial. If I were you and read this here I would carry on with the planned change of oil at 1000, if it provides you with better piece of mind, that is what is important! After all it IS your truck. Nothing wrong with being over cautious. Thanks for posting you probably helped others who will read this.

 

I hope so! Thanks everyone for giving your advice. I really love this forum. Good people, great info, and surprisingly, not TOO much fighting for an internet forum.

I guess that makes me a Fit Freak freak.

 

Speaking of oil changes, has anyone with a car (FINALLY pick mine up on Friday!) been able to locate the oil filter? I enjoy changing my own and am hoping it is easily accessible without having to remove the aerodynamic shroud underneath the car or requiring the car on a lift or jack stands. I'm used to my Accord, which is easy while lying on my back just barely under the car. Ditto for the oil plug.

 

If Honda puts different oil in new cars and says to leave that oil in why are people second-guessing this with no evidence to the contrary? If Honda wanted people to change oil earlier or worried about metal shavings, they'd sell break-in oil.

 

^^^This! Or simply change it if you are worried about it and it gives you a peace of mind. I've never changed oil early in any of my new cars. They have and still run just fine.

 

Break in oils wre thinner than the expected service oils to assist contacting metal parts wearing in nice and smooth; its also why the engine was slowly increased in rpm range as miles accumulated til the service level oill was the right one to stay with. Generally, that was abou 1500 miles.
Nowdas the cylinder wall finishingand piston rings and other macj=hined parts are much better and so is the clearances. Thus 20 weight oils are pretty much standard to get good penetration into tight clearances and thanks to lighter weight easier for the oil pump tt push thru galleries foir huigher mopg.
Thankfully synthetic oils that have the lesser viscosity also have much higher 'rear' strength, meaning the oil can be spread thinner without 'tearing' so that as the stress from higher rpm tries to tear the oil film synthetic oils can - and do - resit that tearing well into very high rpms.
So yes, synrthrtics do offer better mpg, more power, and longer life than conventional oils. Mobil, Castrol, and others offer oils that meet the needed service requirements.
as far as early ol changes, we just change synthetics at about 5K intervals ot of habiyt and the observation that oil filters just dont last for15k miles; they get pretty full of contaminants before then. Honda people swear there's some magic incredient thataids the metal parts wearing together but we've never found one so early is not a hazard (we like to think it gets rid of assembly contaminants, but have no proof lately. I think you ought to go at least a thousand limes on OEM but you can decide yourself. Just use a good synthetic onl and good filters when you change.
cheers.

 

My priority is to get to the full synthetic, rather than the early/frequent change, which I plan on doing when the car tells me to change the oil (5000?).

 

Leave the Factory Fill in until the MM says so. The new 0w20 oils are even better than the old 5w20 oils. Here is a UOA of factory break in. Factory Fill, 10002 miles, '09 Fit Sport 1.5l | Used Oil Analysis - Gasoline | Bob Is The Oil Guy

The UOA I have seen with the new 0w20 oils has even less wear but hold out just as long. Honda recommends their semi synthetic blended oils which is very close to full synthetic and good to the MM. Been using it in my last 2 cars with 9000 mile oil changes and zero issues and great mpg. Its made by CoP and comes in bulk for a lower price at my dealer.