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  #21  
Old 02-24-2017, 09:26 PM
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Ok done deal. I find the stock Fit fun and I know the extras will be that much better.
 
  #22  
Old 02-24-2017, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by stembridge
I would absolutely recommend the rear bar - you have to be quite aggressive to feel the back end wanting to come around, and with stability control on, you'll also immediately feel the car compensate. Safe as kittens, even on snow or ice.

es
when you autocross, you should be turning the traction control and vehicle stability control off. The car doesn't know you're in a closed course competition. It's trying to save you and in process slowing you down. If you google it, there's a dance you can do with the brake pedal and the traction control button that will defeat the traction control and stability control, yet keep the ABS still functional

From your thread, you added the sway bar and changed the alignment. I'm not sure if I missed the alignment specs or you never posted them? Unless you have like 1/4" total toe out or more in the rear, I find it unusual that it's just the bar causing the oversteer? Not having driven a CVT Fit and not knowing when you encounter the condition? I'd almost suspect the combination of bar, CVT and lift-off /throttle off condition is causing it? Are you left foot braking or right foot braking?
 
  #23  
Old 02-25-2017, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob H
when you autocross, you should be turning the traction control and vehicle stability control off. The car doesn't know you're in a closed course competition. It's trying to save you and in process slowing you down. If you google it, there's a dance you can do with the brake pedal and the traction control button that will defeat the traction control and stability control, yet keep the ABS still functional

From your thread, you added the sway bar and changed the alignment. I'm not sure if I missed the alignment specs or you never posted them? Unless you have like 1/4" total toe out or more in the rear, I find it unusual that it's just the bar causing the oversteer? Not having driven a CVT Fit and not knowing when you encounter the condition? I'd almost suspect the combination of bar, CVT and lift-off /throttle off condition is causing it? Are you left foot braking or right foot braking?
He actually did not say that. I just assumed that it was a contributing factor and wondered if I needed that for the street.
 
  #24  
Old 02-25-2017, 05:06 PM
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  1. Originally Posted by stephenmarklay
    He actually did not say that. I just assumed that it was a contributing factor and wondered if I needed that for the street.
    "Needed" ? Nah ....but it does make the car feel tighter, have no numbers to back up the "feel better" aspect...it may post the exact same times (or even worse?) on a course with the bar vs stock, but it sure feels great. fwiw. And part of it may have to do with trans choice....have yet to meet a CVT that I like
 
  #25  
Old 02-25-2017, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Fuelish
  1. "Needed" ? Nah ....but it does make the car feel tighter, have no numbers to back up the "feel better" aspect...it may post the exact same times (or even worse?) on a course with the bar vs stock, but it sure feels great. fwiw. And part of it may have to do with trans choice....have yet to meet a CVT that I like
Yeah I know it is common practice to add a bar but aside from less roll I am not sure of how they pan out for performance. Tires for sure. Springs I am also not sure but I do like a bit tighter response.
 
  #26  
Old 02-25-2017, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by stephenmarklay
Yeah I know it is common practice to add a bar but aside from less roll I am not sure of how they pan out for performance. Tires for sure. Springs I am also not sure but I do like a bit tighter response.
Sway bars are a tuning aide or that's what they should be. I have four rear sway bars for my WRX that I autocross.

Bigger rear bar will help reduce the inherent understeer of a FWD car. Too big of rear bar will lift the rear wheel under aggressive cornering. It will also make the car prone to lift-off or throttle off oversteer.

Allot also has to do with your feel, driving style and other factors. My driving or autocross style induces understeer. I have the biggest rear sway bar that I can find on the back of my car. My car is also AWD. When the back end starts to come around, I floor it to transfer the weight of the vehicle to the rear wheels for traction. That usually straightens the car out along with the help of the front wheels pulling it straight. End of last season I co-drove a friends Ford Focus SVT. Since it was FWD, I trailed braked to keep as much weight as possible over the front wheels during cornering to aid in traction. My friend doesn't trail brake his car. Said it doesn't work for him?

As far as car mods go:

Generally tires will be the biggest improvement, next alignment. Keep in mind that sticky tires will mask poor driving. I'd do springs and sway bars last. That being said, I'd do bigger front and rear bars before cheap coil overs. I wouldn't do coil overs unless you're willing to spend $2K or more. Cheaper will just be junk to lower your car for looks.

It's all about weight transfer and knowledge. By no means am I an expert. Biggest mod or best bang for the buck would be actually taking the autocross school at your local SCCA chapter. Unfortunately most people prefer to buy parts for their cars for looks, ego, street creed, or what ever other reason, instead of spending a couple hundred for instruction/fun with their local SCCA region. Most who autocross are very friendly, willing to help/instruct and will provide real knowledge of handling performance modifications.


 

Last edited by Rob H; 02-25-2017 at 11:34 PM.
  #27  
Old 02-27-2017, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob H
Sway bars are a tuning aide or that's what they should be. I have four rear sway bars for my WRX that I autocross.

Bigger rear bar will help reduce the inherent understeer of a FWD car. Too big of rear bar will lift the rear wheel under aggressive cornering. It will also make the car prone to lift-off or throttle off oversteer.

Allot also has to do with your feel, driving style and other factors. My driving or autocross style induces understeer. I have the biggest rear sway bar that I can find on the back of my car. My car is also AWD. When the back end starts to come around, I floor it to transfer the weight of the vehicle to the rear wheels for traction. That usually straightens the car out along with the help of the front wheels pulling it straight. End of last season I co-drove a friends Ford Focus SVT. Since it was FWD, I trailed braked to keep as much weight as possible over the front wheels during cornering to aid in traction. My friend doesn't trail brake his car. Said it doesn't work for him?

As far as car mods go:

Generally tires will be the biggest improvement, next alignment. Keep in mind that sticky tires will mask poor driving. I'd do springs and sway bars last. That being said, I'd do bigger front and rear bars before cheap coil overs. I wouldn't do coil overs unless you're willing to spend $2K or more. Cheaper will just be junk to lower your car for looks.

It's all about weight transfer and knowledge. By no means am I an expert. Biggest mod or best bang for the buck would be actually taking the autocross school at your local SCCA chapter. Unfortunately most people prefer to buy parts for their cars for looks, ego, street creed, or what ever other reason, instead of spending a couple hundred for instruction/fun with their local SCCA region. Most who autocross are very friendly, willing to help/instruct and will provide real knowledge of handling performance modifications.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgiU4_s1VhQ

Thanks so much!
 
  #28  
Old 02-27-2017, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob H
From your thread, you added the sway bar and changed the alignment. I'm not sure if I missed the alignment specs or you never posted them? Unless you have like 1/4" total toe out or more in the rear, I find it unusual that it's just the bar causing the oversteer? Not having driven a CVT Fit and not knowing when you encounter the condition? I'd almost suspect the combination of bar, CVT and lift-off /throttle off condition is causing it? Are you left foot braking or right foot braking?
Never posted the alignment numbers, it appears. I'm at 0* toe all around (had to shim the rear axle stubs) and -1.5* camber up front (camber bolts). You're correct that it's mainly trailing throttle oversteer that I'm describing.

The CVT should have nothing to do with handling feel, I would think.

Although I didn't know that's what it's called, I was indeed trail braking on the course - just seemed like the right thing to be doing. Next time I autox, I'll run with traction control off - you're correct that it slows the car down (very noticeable). I figured I'd start "gentle" and work my way faster as I figure out what the car's doing at the edges.

I'm still a newbie at autox, and try to get rides with others to pick their brains - you're right that folks are super-friendly and willing to help.

I'm super-happy with the way the car feels now (on and off track) - it's a much tighter experience and not too harsh, even on our bad Illinois roads. It's simply more fun to drive, and that's what I was going after...

es
 

Last edited by stembridge; 02-27-2017 at 12:58 PM.
  #29  
Old 02-27-2017, 10:50 PM
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ES:

While it doesn't make up for an actual instructor in the car I thought this eleven part series was quite informative. I'd really recommend taking either SCCA-Chicago two day Learning Curve school in April or Milwaukee regions one day school. Milwaukee's school is usually a bargain. I want to day I paid like $75 and it came with lunch?

 

Last edited by Rob H; 02-28-2017 at 09:14 AM.
  #30  
Old 03-01-2017, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for the video link - hadn't seen that series yet. Driving school sounds like it would be fun and helpful. Many years ago, I did a track day at Road Atlanta, which was fun and informative (actually, it was only half the day, the other half was driving Legends cars at a nearby Ľ mile oval track, which was a hoot).

es
 
  #31  
Old 03-04-2017, 09:27 PM
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I just installed the Progress bar today. Drove home, out to dinner, and then back home with the wife. She wouldn't know the difference, but I did. My first impression is that the car feels more "planted" and less body roll. So far, definitely worth the money. Fun mod.
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  #32  
Old 03-05-2017, 06:27 PM
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+1, it's probably the best bang for the buck you can do to the car.

es
 
  #33  
Old 03-06-2017, 04:33 PM
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Just wanted to add my two cents to this thread. I have no interest in lowering my Fit. The roads are absolute sh*t by me, and I've had enough headaches with a lowered car.

For a while I was upset I didn't get a Fiesta ST. Unfortunately I needed a usable back seat, and as much cargo room as I could, and I didn't fit (no pun intended) in the Fiestas back seats without some severe hunching over and my knees digging into the front (I'm 6'1"). But man the Fiesta was so fun to test drive! I even considered trading in my 6 month old Fit and taking a pretty heavy financial loss.

That said, I've done a few easy mods that really changed the character of the car without the need to lower.

The rear sway bar made an immediate difference in corners without compromising rise quality. Weird how the previous generation Fit Sport had one, but none are available from Honda for this generation.

I also installed a strut tower brace to slightly balance out the rear sway bar (and to supposedly improve the steering feel, which I can't tell if it actually affects or I'm just experiencing a placebo effect). Now that awful understeer is toned down significantly, with very little propensity to oversteer.

I also upgraded my wheels and tires. I'm running lightweight enkei race wheels, which are significantly lighter than stock despite being half an inch wider and the same diameter. They're wearing relatively lightweight Yokohama S.Drive summer performance tires. The improvement in outright grip is amazing. The car is also much more spirited accelerating off the line thanks to the decrease in unsprung weight. It really feels very nimble and athletic now.

The stock clutch and shifter are so incredibly light in action (a Honda trademark), but I liked the heavier and more purposeful feel of the ST transmission. I couldn't do anything for the light clutch pedal, but a titanium shift knob from WC Latheworks completely changed the character of the shifter itself. I didn't go for a stainless steel knob as I felt I would be TOO heavy, and I think the titanium is a great middle ground. Shifts now have a deliberate weight to them, and it's just so much more fun to move around than the featherweight stock knob. Only caution is that the stock boot doesn't clip to the knob and looks kind of cruddy in that way (the knob itself is gorgeous), and the finish is a little prone to scratching.

Finally, a real exhaust (in my case the Tanabe Medalion) really made the car feel like a real car. I know the Medalion is heavier than stock, but I love actually being able to hear the exhaust note and not just the winding of the I4 engine. Just being able to hear that throaty yet smooth sound coming out of the car definitely makes a difference to me. If you do want to upgrade the exhaust, I personally recommend spending the extra cash on the Tanabe versus other lower cost options. The workmanship is definitely superior. There's no "typical" JDM rasp or fart sound associated with the single cylindrical style muffler exhausts, and it just looks so much better.

Up next I'm looking into the ktuner flash. Peak gains are minimal but it seems the flash really improves the drivability and smooths out the powerband.

All of these relatively simple mods have made a surprisingly big difference in my day to day driving, without the need to lower my daily driver. I'm sure a good set of Springs + shocks or quality coilovers would make a big difference too, definitely bigger than just some sway / strut bars, but for those like me who don't want to go down that road due to practicality or comfort considerations, I'm happy with what I have, even though it's still not in the same league as the Fiesta ST.
 

Last edited by 1speedbike; 03-06-2017 at 04:35 PM.
  #34  
Old 03-06-2017, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1speedbike

The rear sway bar made an immediate difference in corners without compromising rise quality. Weird how the previous generation Fit Sport had one, but none are available from Honda for this generation.,,,


Finally, a real exhaust (in my case the Tanabe Medalion) really made the car feel like a real car. I know the Medalion is heavier than stock, but I love actually being able to hear the exhaust note and not just the winding of the I4 engine. Just being able to hear that throaty yet smooth sound coming out of the car definitely makes a difference to me. If you do want to upgrade the exhaust, I personally recommend spending the extra cash on the Tanabe versus other lower cost options. The workmanship is definitely superior. There's no "typical" JDM rasp or fart sound associated with the single cylindrical style muffler exhausts, and it just looks so much better.
Yes, forgot to mention in previous post that I also installed a Tanabe Medalion Touring (or whatever it's called) axleback. Sounds "just right" ....all I heard with stock was the gnashing of the engine (beware the Jabberwock....) Not a cheap muffler, but sounds really great! And the Progress rear anti-sway bar is well worth it - both incredibly easy DIY installs, and worth it, imho
 
  #35  
Old 03-06-2017, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 1speedbike
Just wanted to add my two cents to this thread. I have no interest in lowering my Fit. The roads are absolute sh*t by me, and I've had enough headaches with a lowered car.

For a while I was upset I didn't get a Fiesta ST. Unfortunately I needed a usable back seat, and as much cargo room as I could, and I didn't fit (no pun intended) in the Fiestas back seats without some severe hunching over and my knees digging into the front (I'm 6'1"). But man the Fiesta was so fun to test drive! I even considered trading in my 6 month old Fit and taking a pretty heavy financial loss.

That said, I've done a few easy mods that really changed the character of the car without the need to lower.

The rear sway bar made an immediate difference in corners without compromising rise quality. Weird how the previous generation Fit Sport had one, but none are available from Honda for this generation.

I also installed a strut tower brace to slightly balance out the rear sway bar (and to supposedly improve the steering feel, which I can't tell if it actually affects or I'm just experiencing a placebo effect). Now that awful understeer is toned down significantly, with very little propensity to oversteer.

I also upgraded my wheels and tires. I'm running lightweight enkei race wheels, which are significantly lighter than stock despite being half an inch wider and the same diameter. They're wearing relatively lightweight Yokohama S.Drive summer performance tires. The improvement in outright grip is amazing. The car is also much more spirited accelerating off the line thanks to the decrease in unsprung weight. It really feels very nimble and athletic now.

The stock clutch and shifter are so incredibly light in action (a Honda trademark), but I liked the heavier and more purposeful feel of the ST transmission. I couldn't do anything for the light clutch pedal, but a titanium shift knob from WC Latheworks completely changed the character of the shifter itself. I didn't go for a stainless steel knob as I felt I would be TOO heavy, and I think the titanium is a great middle ground. Shifts now have a deliberate weight to them, and it's just so much more fun to move around than the featherweight stock knob. Only caution is that the stock boot doesn't clip to the knob and looks kind of cruddy in that way (the knob itself is gorgeous), and the finish is a little prone to scratching.

Finally, a real exhaust (in my case the Tanabe Medalion) really made the car feel like a real car. I know the Medalion is heavier than stock, but I love actually being able to hear the exhaust note and not just the winding of the I4 engine. Just being able to hear that throaty yet smooth sound coming out of the car definitely makes a difference to me. If you do want to upgrade the exhaust, I personally recommend spending the extra cash on the Tanabe versus other lower cost options. The workmanship is definitely superior. There's no "typical" JDM rasp or fart sound associated with the single cylindrical style muffler exhausts, and it just looks so much better.

Up next I'm looking into the ktuner flash. Peak gains are minimal but it seems the flash really improves the drivability and smooths out the powerband.

All of these relatively simple mods have made a surprisingly big difference in my day to day driving, without the need to lower my daily driver. I'm sure a good set of Springs + shocks or quality coilovers would make a big difference too, definitely bigger than just some sway / strut bars, but for those like me who don't want to go down that road due to practicality or comfort considerations, I'm happy with what I have, even though it's still not in the same league as the Fiesta ST.
I regret not buying the Fiesta ST, but it was more than I wanted to spend. In 5 months of ownership I've been to dealers twice and almost took the hit and traded it in. I was originally going to give it to my son for a college car in two years. He might get it early. Even if he totals it as a teenager, at least it's out of my life.
 
  #36  
Old 03-07-2017, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 1speedbike
Just wanted to add my two cents to this thread. I have no interest in lowering my Fit. The roads are absolute sh*t by me, and I've had enough headaches with a lowered car.

For a while I was upset I didn't get a Fiesta ST. Unfortunately I needed a usable back seat, and as much cargo room as I could, and I didn't fit (no pun intended) in the Fiestas back seats without some severe hunching over and my knees digging into the front (I'm 6'1"). But man the Fiesta was so fun to test drive! I even considered trading in my 6 month old Fit and taking a pretty heavy financial loss.

That said, I've done a few easy mods that really changed the character of the car without the need to lower.

The rear sway bar made an immediate difference in corners without compromising rise quality. Weird how the previous generation Fit Sport had one, but none are available from Honda for this generation.

I also installed a strut tower brace to slightly balance out the rear sway bar (and to supposedly improve the steering feel, which I can't tell if it actually affects or I'm just experiencing a placebo effect). Now that awful understeer is toned down significantly, with very little propensity to oversteer.

I also upgraded my wheels and tires. I'm running lightweight enkei race wheels, which are significantly lighter than stock despite being half an inch wider and the same diameter. They're wearing relatively lightweight Yokohama S.Drive summer performance tires. The improvement in outright grip is amazing. The car is also much more spirited accelerating off the line thanks to the decrease in unsprung weight. It really feels very nimble and athletic now.

The stock clutch and shifter are so incredibly light in action (a Honda trademark), but I liked the heavier and more purposeful feel of the ST transmission. I couldn't do anything for the light clutch pedal, but a titanium shift knob from WC Latheworks completely changed the character of the shifter itself. I didn't go for a stainless steel knob as I felt I would be TOO heavy, and I think the titanium is a great middle ground. Shifts now have a deliberate weight to them, and it's just so much more fun to move around than the featherweight stock knob. Only caution is that the stock boot doesn't clip to the knob and looks kind of cruddy in that way (the knob itself is gorgeous), and the finish is a little prone to scratching.

Finally, a real exhaust (in my case the Tanabe Medalion) really made the car feel like a real car. I know the Medalion is heavier than stock, but I love actually being able to hear the exhaust note and not just the winding of the I4 engine. Just being able to hear that throaty yet smooth sound coming out of the car definitely makes a difference to me. If you do want to upgrade the exhaust, I personally recommend spending the extra cash on the Tanabe versus other lower cost options. The workmanship is definitely superior. There's no "typical" JDM rasp or fart sound associated with the single cylindrical style muffler exhausts, and it just looks so much better.

Up next I'm looking into the ktuner flash. Peak gains are minimal but it seems the flash really improves the drivability and smooths out the powerband.

All of these relatively simple mods have made a surprisingly big difference in my day to day driving, without the need to lower my daily driver. I'm sure a good set of Springs + shocks or quality coilovers would make a big difference too, definitely bigger than just some sway / strut bars, but for those like me who don't want to go down that road due to practicality or comfort considerations, I'm happy with what I have, even though it's still not in the same league as the Fiesta ST.
Thanks for this. Yeah I have been eyeballing the Fiesta ST. But like you the Fit just “fits” real humans with bags and bikes etc. So I would have to step up to a Focus to get the space.

I also really enjoyed the 1991 VW GTI. It was super fun. The Fit does have the potential to be fun like that. The GTI was lighter but the Fit has so much more tech now. I will take the 500 pounds for cameras and such.

I am keeping the Fit. My wife needs new care far more than I do as her care is now 10 years old and that was from kids age 1-11
 
  #37  
Old 03-07-2017, 08:22 AM
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Check out the RSR Down SUS springs which have a very moderate drop: Honda Fit Down Sus Springs 2015+ | RS-R USA
 
  #38  
Old 03-07-2017, 12:43 PM
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I have the RSR Down springs, and I actually bottom out less than with the stock springs, and with only a minor drop.

es
 
  #39  
Old 03-07-2017, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by stembridge
I have the RSR Down springs, and I actually bottom out less than with the stock springs, and with only a minor drop.

es
Which ones? They offer two different drops
 
  #40  
Old 03-07-2017, 08:24 PM
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"Down" as opposed to "Super Down."

es
 


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