Maybe I missed it, but, does it happens only when shifting?

I mean, if you're in second gear, let rpm drop to 2000 and accelerate again, does the 2200rpm 'judder' occur?
If it happens then it's probably not not related to clutch or gearbox but to the engine itself.

 

In my experience, no, it most only happens when you're shifting 1st to 2nd. Not to say it never happens if you just let the rpms drop in 2nd, but usually it won't; it will just accelerate smoothly.

I know that is opening the conversation up to say it's just sloppy shifting/driver error, but after 6,000 miles I know that isn't the case. I've shifted 1st to 2nd probably 10,000+ times and I can do it with my eyes closed now. It happens when the clutch is fully released in 2nd gear, even if the shift was smooth and the release was smooth. It will accelerate smoothly until you hit around 2,200 and then it will shudder.

The thing I can say is that lately there have been times were it definitively did NOT shudder. As in, all of the same conditions that are there when it does shudder were present (shift point from 1st-2nd, RPM and timing when releasing the clutch, amount of throttle, engine temp, etc.) and instead it just accelerated smoothly. Probably since the 5,000 mile mark or so. The shudder still happens frequently, but the number of times that it doesn't happen has definitely increased.

 

i just rolled 5k, ill have to see if i still notice, kinda forgot about this ill have to check and see.

 

I'll add my input to this topic.


The "hesitation" is due to the DI system adjusting for the ideal air/fuel mix. The ECM goes to a lean burn when there is less demand for the engine. This is not the case when the car first starts as its running open loop. Since the ECM cannot compensate until the O2 sensor warms up it guesses. It makes the most sense to shift at higher RPM's to compensate. At some RPM the ECM knows the engine is being called on for more power and changes the fuel mixture to be ideal. Lower RPMs means less demand/leaner fuel ratio, and when it does not meet the demand for the car the ECM switches to a higher fuel mixture on the fly to obtain the power when you hit the gas harder, thus the "shaky hesitation" This is no glitch or malfunction, its how the ECM manages the engine.


As others have pointed out if you shift at the right points its smooth as any other car. Its a bit more noticeable when the AC is running, and accessories are on drawing more power from the alternator. The ECM senses the extra load and compensates, but its affinity is it wants to stay at a lean burn ratio to save fuel. If it was more liberal set to stay at an ideal fuel mixture when demand is minimal, I don't think we would be getting the fuel mileage it does boast.


I'll drive a manual till my legs fall off, and if manufacturers stop offering manual trannys, then I'll buy an older car that has a manual!

 

I just wanted to comment that I have experienced this issue also.

 

I also have this exact same problem. I just bought a 2015 Fit and just under 2500 rpm in 2nd gear I get the little hesitation. Is there a software fix for this ECM lean burn issue?

Also, can the remote door lock/unlock key be programed to unlock all doors with just 1 press of the button instead of 2?

And, can the blue lights around the speedometer that turn green when the car wants upshifting be deactivated? That's super annoying

 

I have experienced the same issues in second. I typically shift at a higher point in first. I only notice it at medium throttle in second. If I'm driving like an old lady, with very light throttle, I don't notice it (although its there), and if I'm accelerating at a decent clip I don't have the hesitation.

 

Hello fellow FitFreaks, I'm new to the forum and to the Honda Fit. I got a 2015 Fit EX 6MT a few weeks ago with about 55K on it. Car is in fantastic shape and has been taken care of well, however I did start experiencing this issue in 2nd gear on some occasions. Kept getting kind of upset with myself because I thought it was just user error (I learnt how to drive on a stick and have been driving them since then). Found this thread and another like it and started feeling a bit better about myself but then began to worry maybe something was indeed wrong with the car.
Anyhow, to make a somewhat long story a little shorter, I installed a K&N air filter (stock airbox), ran some seafoam through the gas tank and started using higher octane gas. This didn't resolve the issue at all, if anything it made it more noticeable UNTIL I did some more digging and performed an Idle Relearn procedure.
After the idle relearn it was night and day and I have not experienced this issue in 2nd gear anymore. Not sure the K&N or the seamfoam or the higher octane gas had anything to do with it, I think it was more the idle relearn that helped. Hope my experiences so far and this information is helpful to anyone out there that may still be struggling with this issue!

 

mateusiv :

What is the idle relearn procedure ? How do you do it?

James

 

It’s basically a procedure for the PCM/ECU to learn new fuel trims based on air volume and other sensors at idle.
The proper way to do it is with the HDS (Honda Diagnostics System) scan tool and follow the instructions.
The layman DIYers budget version is to disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait a few minutes (some people try to turn their lights on or pump the brakes to get rid of any residual voltage in the system).
Make sure there is no load. AC off, lights off, radio off, etc.
You then put the keys in the ignition all the way to ON without starting the engine. Wait 2 seconds (I believe) and then start the car.
Hold the RPMs at 3000 for five minutes or until the radiator fan comes on (car in neutral or P).
After the fan comes on then let the car idle for five minutes (if the fan turns on again don’t count that time as part of the five minutes).
After five minutes you can shut off the engine and you’re done.
There are better and more detailed instructions on this forum and others, as well as YouTube videos. Trying to link them but I’m typing this with my cellphone and struggling a bit.
Hope this helps!

 

bumping this one up as well

 

Hey guys so I was put onto this thread after posting that I to was suffering from this second gear shudder. I had my vehicle at the dealer yesterday and had them perform a idle relearn. Driving the vehicle today it feels much smoother and I was unable to get it to shudder. This calibration was only performed after I insisted that it be done after reading about it in this thread. I am replying in the hopes some of the newer model year guys can chime in. No one at the dealership seemed to know what I was talking about and were ready to cut me loose as normal operation till I told them about this and requested for it to be done to mine. in the mean time will keep driving and hoping that its fixed now.

 

The dealer robots are programmed to act like you are the first person to every have a problem with a Honda. I hope this fixes it! Hopefully you can report back and give this thread a solid resolution in a week or two.