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Oil change on the GK

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  #1  
Old 10-06-2014, 01:27 PM
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Question Oil Change in 2015 Fit

Hey all,
I'm a little over 5K miles in my 2015 Fit and I'm wondering how often I really need to change my oil, and what the pros and cons are for using synthetic oil. I drive a lot if that matters.
Thanks!
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:47 PM
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I want to begin changing my own oil and this will be the first (car) and time I will attempt to do so.

Are there any video tutorials or instructions for how to do it on a 2015 Fit. (Apologies in advance if this is something I should already know but gotta start somewhere i guess)

Also what type of oil (amount), filter, anything else i would need?

Thank you to all.
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:59 PM
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Oh man... I think this thread is about to get ugly...

All I will say is that changing oil is really easy. You'll have no problems even if it's your first time. There are some pro-tips that can be found, but just look for a YouTube vid and you'll learn what you need to know.

I don't know the capacity, but it is definitely in the manual somewhere.

Type of filter is going to be a debate... the service adviser at the dealer said the OEM filters are best (obviously), but I looked at some cutaway videos of the Honda filters and they appear to be cheaply made. I think there are better options. I'm curious what answers you may get for this one.

I plan to use full synthetic but I'm not prepared to debate the pros and cons of each. I *think* that all 0w20 oils are at least semi-synthetic to achieve that low of a viscosity.

One tip I will give: used oil and filters can be disposed of for free at most auto parts sores.

Good luck!
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 02:04 PM
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Thanks for the response. Figured I'd rather feel comfortable that I am actually doing it that rather some service department and not seeing even if they actually do it or half ass it
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by yuffers
Thanks for the response. Figured I'd rather feel comfortable that I am actually doing it that rather some service department and not seeing even if they actually do it or half ass it
Yeah, it's just too easy to do yourself and not pay the dealers'/lube places' stupid prices. The Mobil 1 place by me quoted over $90 for a full synthetic oil change.

You can buy 5 quart jugs of mobile 1 and a decent filter for like $45 PLUS you won't be up-sold on stupid services they try to convince you you need.

Really, youtube will teach you whatever you need to know.
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:07 PM
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Mobil 1 5 quart jugs are around $25 at wal Mary and then the filters should be around $10. So DIY oil change should be around $40 with full synth
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:12 PM
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Apologies RickieLouise, didnt mean to hijack the thread
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:14 PM
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OP: Just follow the maintenance minder for when to change your oil, or once a year if you don't drive enough to get the oil life down that fast. Any quality 0W20 is fine, they are all at least synthetic blend anyway.

5 qt Mobil 1 at Walmart = $25
Wix oil filter = $7

$32 + Tax

I'm going to guess it takes about 4 quarts if it's anything like the old L15, but definitely not over 5. Just add 3.5 quarts and start it and check the dipstick, add as needed if you're too lazy to check the manual. Filter is easily accessible and should be the same filter as every other Honda on the planet uses (they all use the same filter now).
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:57 PM
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Mobil 1 Extended Life goes 15K miles. I recently watch a video on a Toyota Corolla valve cover replacement, and the engine looked super clean using that oil. To do your own oil changes, get the right tools, and elevate the vehicle using blocks of wood or low-profile ramps. I always start with the vehicle hot, and slightly loosen the oil filter first without breaking the seal...then I punch a small hole into the filter bottom allowing it to drain. Then fully remove the filter (oil above the check valve will still leak out...its normal) and remove the pan drain plug, allowing it to drain. Use a socket/ratchet set that is configured to loosen, so that you don't try to tighten the plug when trying to remove. Pre-fill the new filter with new oil, being careful not to over-fill and thus make a mess. Install filter making sure the new gasket has been oiled, and ensure the old gasket is not still on the mating surface. I turn the filter as tight as I can by hand, and then add about a quarter turn using my filter socket/ratchet. Re-install the drain plug (snug tight) and re-fill engine with new oil. I capture my old oil in a wide oil pan, and dump into 5 gal bucket that has a lid, or you can use the old 5 qt container. Keep a notebook on when the oil was changed, what size socket you need, filter model numbers for reference, oil capacity, etc. I also keep a small note card (I have 4 vehicles) with a mileage note as to when the next change is needed. I'm going about 8K miles using Walmart synthetic, but will use the Mobil 1 Extended on future changes.
 

Last edited by Spacecoast; 10-06-2014 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Spacecoast
slightly loosen the oil filter first without breaking the seal...then I punch a small hole into the filter bottom allowing it to drain.
umm, what?!?
 
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rodney
umm, what?!?
lmao no comment.
 
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Spacecoast
slightly loosen the oil filter first without breaking the seal...then I punch a small hole into the filter bottom allowing it to drain.
umm, what?!?
When you start the process of changing the oil, you want to start with the filter. Since the old filter will be initially clean on the outside, start by ensuring you can remove the filter by turning it...either by hand or using a tool. I always start by turning the old filter counterclock-wise by using my filter socket and ratchet. However, I do not allow the filter to be turned enough to break or release the seal...usually only 1/4 turn is enough. The reason is that oil will flow out from the seal area, coating the outside area of the old filter, and making quite a mess. Instead, I punch a small hole into the bottom of the filter (I have a rain-gutter spike for this), and allow it to drain. Then I finish removing the filter...and remember now that its fairly loose, its easy to turn by hand. Although drained, the filter will still allow some oil to flow from the seal area because the top check-valve in the filter prevents that oil from draining back into the filter, however the amount of oil is less.

I also have a special filter removal tool that essentially cuts into the sides of the filter as its twisted using a ratchet, but you can't use it for the re-install. The key points are: 1) make sure you can turn the filter from the start, 2) get it slightly loose before it and your hands get coated with oil, and 3) drain the oil out of the old filter. Been doing this for many years. I also pre-fill the new filter, rather than starting the vehicle with a dry filter.
 

Last edited by Spacecoast; 10-07-2014 at 09:38 AM.
  #13  
Old 10-07-2014, 11:55 AM
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The punch a hole in the filter method seems pretty sound. The only other idea I had seen was to put a large ziplock bag round the filter and then screw it off, so any oil that drains from the filter when the seal is broken is caught in the bag. Punching a whole seems easier.

As for filters (and I know there was a thread asking this question, but it quickly got off topic), what is your opinion on filter brands? I found a cutaway video on the OEM filters, and they seemed to be pretty cheap quality. I imagine there is a better option.

Only other comment: My Fit came from the Space Coast. I bought it at Southeastern Honda in Melbourne.
 
  #14  
Old 10-07-2014, 12:54 PM
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As for filters (and I know there was a thread asking this question, but it quickly got off topic), what is your opinion on filter brands? I found a cutaway video on the OEM filters, and they seemed to be pretty cheap quality. I imagine there is a better option.
I’ve used the Wal-Mart SuperTech filters for quite some time, but unfortunately they are phasing them out and stocking Fram as almost an exclusive brand. However, according to a study I read several years ago, the Fram filters were inferior to most other brands. I’ve been using Purolator lately, but I can’t attest to the quality.
With extended length oil changes, the hold-up of the filter is a concern of mine.

Our Fit was purchased used (had like 15K miles or so) from the Melbourne area.
 
  #15  
Old 10-07-2014, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Spacecoast
I’ve used the Wal-Mart SuperTech filters for quite some time, but unfortunately they are phasing them out and stocking Fram as almost an exclusive brand. However, according to a study I read several years ago, the Fram filters were inferior to most other brands. I’ve been using Purolator lately, but I can’t attest to the quality.
Wal Marts in Chattanooga stock mostly Fram filters, but the do stock the Purolator 14610, which Fits Fits
 
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Old 10-07-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RickieLouise
Hey all,
I'm a little over 5K miles in my 2015 Fit and I'm wondering how often I really need to change my oil, and what the pros and cons are for using synthetic oil. I drive a lot if that matters.
Thanks!
wait till your onboard maintenance remind on the car tell you to change it. i run mobil1 on my '09 and '12. i get my 5qt jugs from walmart for cheap and just keep the 1qt in the bottle top off (if required).
 
  #17  
Old 10-07-2014, 05:50 PM
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The 2015 only takes 3.3 or 3.5 quarts of oil! I was very surprised when I read that.
 
  #18  
Old 10-09-2014, 12:58 AM
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my 2 cents worth

Great filter comparison at gmtruckcentral They look at about every popular brand, and give you an actual comparison, from build quality to cost factor...
Also a very good air filter test on the same site.....I just finished about 3 hours
on the site....They are comparing chevy filters, but the filters are just a different size....was really surprised by the results.....
 
  #19  
Old 10-09-2014, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by spreadhead
Wal Marts.....stock mostly Fram filters......Purolator 14610, which Fits Fits
Started with Fram decades ago but changed to Purolator back in '08 with my GD. Will be using their 14610 for the GK. As other have posted, look at the YouTube different filter cut-out comparisons. Can't go wrong for less than $4 for a quality filter.

Originally Posted by kenchan
wait till your onboard maintenance....run mobil1 ......
Ditto here. Can't beat Wally's for mobil 1!!!
 
  #20  
Old 10-09-2014, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ROTTBOY
Started with Fram decades ago but changed to Purolator back in '08 with my GD. Will be using their 14610 for the GK. As other have posted, look at the YouTube different filter cut-out comparisons. Can't go wrong for less than $4 for a quality filter.

Ditto here. Can't beat Wally's for mobil 1!!!
Hey ROTTBOY, I'm glad they made you a moderator. You were practically the Mayor of the GK thread anyway

So the Purolators are good filters? I was reading this thread and it seemed like the Purolators did a really great job catching solids in the oil.

I asked the service adviser what he recommends while they were "upgrading" my bumper, and naturally he said the Honda OEM filter is best, but I think there are better options and I'm glad to see that you agree.

P.S. Everyone wondering should check out the link above. The guy did some pretty extensive testing of a lot of different filters.
 


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