I got one of these intakes and im getting 35mpg with the intake. i was getting 31-33mpg with the stock intake.

 

E-mail A&J Racing to inquire about filters/maintenance/replacement.

 

hey man great DIY. did it in like a 45min........ thanks

 

super easy. I got thisintake and LOVE it. Worth the money.

 

Hi All,

First I want to say this was a great DIY. I'm new at modding and this worked out well for me.

I've got a couple of concerns. First, I didn't take the plastic off the battery but was still able to get the intake in. Yes it's tight, but it did fit. One of the reasons why I didn't take the plastic off the battery (yes, please laugh) was that I wasn't necessarily sure how to disconnect the battery. So if anyone can explain that I'd love to hear it.

Secondly, the thing sits really close to the coolant hose. I even bent the bracket as I could, but I still think it sits way to close.

Finally, I know there's a tight fit in the engine bay, but right now, I feel like I actually lost power/torque/throttle response with this thing. I even performed the idle learn procedure this morning as specified in the fit service manual -- still I feel the same. Anybody have any thoughts as to why this might be? It feels like I've got extra load on the engine, as if the A/C were on. I also get hesitation on the throttle, like the ECU is thinking about things.

If anyone could help me with this I would really appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

1) There's a 10mm bolt holding the "+" and "-" terminal on. Just loosen it off.

2) Which coolant hose is it close to? If it's still close to the one where you bent the bracket, you may have to bend the bracket so that it's in a different angle.


3) Make sure that all the sensors are plugged in. Take the car to 4000RPM in 2nd gear, hold it, then hammer it. Tell me if it's still "gutless" or not.

 

Ok, I'll do that after work tonight. And yes, it is still close to the one where I bent the bracket. Apparently I didn't bend it enough. I'll have to do that along with taking off the battery plastic, etc. Hopefully that should do it. Is it possible that despite higher RPM gains, we lose a little something in the lower ranges?

 

any trick to removing the bolt that is by the radiator cap?
having hard time removing it.

 

As far as the bolt by the radiator cap -- I just used an extension and a deep socket, no problems.

So last night I re-installed everything -- after having removed the plastic around the battery and readjusting the coolant hose bracket, everything is much cleaner now.

So, things do seem a bit better with it. However, I noticed in the service manual that after the ECM gets reset ('cause of the battery) there are a number of procedures that should be done, two of which are the Idle Learn Procedure (ILP) and the Crank Learn Procedure (CLP). These are a part of a number of "readiness codes" that are set in the ECM for emissions. The manual explains that if you turn the ignition to ON -- the MIL (check engine indicator) light should come on for fifteen seconds and then disappear, if it blinks five times before disappearing it means that one or more of the emissions "readiness" codes are not "complete." My MIL light blinks 5 times before going out -- anybody else's?

Fact is, these learn procedures are a PIA and I got to think that after a normal amount of driving these procedures would no longer be necessary. I mean, disconnecting your battery shouldn't require 2 hours of learn procedure work -- just doesn't make sense.

Any thoughts?

 

what if it rains? do you need a bypass valve for this intake? im going to order this soon and it rains a lot in new england haha

 

You can't hydrolock unless part of your filter is actually submerged, so you should be good unless your expecting 1-2 feet tall water.

 

yeah it seems like it doesnt do much but when you open it up above approx 4000 rpms, you can start hearing/feeling the intake kicking in.

 

ok, i did the install this morning. i had to unhook my battery and now i have to do the radio code thing. i don't know what that is. can anyone help me?

 

The radio code is supposed to be on the driver side wall of the glove box. SOME Fit's have it here, some dont. If not, it shoudl be in your pouch where your manual is. All you have to do is turn the radio on so that it says "CODE" then punch in the code.

 

thanks man. you saved me from boredom.

 

how do i extend my IAT? it's kinda short on my fit?

 

It shouldn't be. I"ve never come across that. THe only things you can really do are:

1) unwrap it from the OEM harness?

2) Cut and extend the wires

 

Just installed the T1R intake. I like it! Just like yawl said....sucker "screams" @ 4000 RPM. Response feels nice in all the gears too.

I had the H-Fit Supa Sucka prior to this; I liked that intake too, but the tiny screw that held both halves of the chamber intake popped out & I couldn't get any new screw to stay put, so....enter the T1R intake. Can't wait to do some more driving & enjoy the feel.

ps: I got a CEL U0155 after installing the intake. It turned out to be my ScanGuage. Apparently, it does that if the SG is connected to the OBDII port BEFORE you start the car. Just had to disconnect the battery (cleared the code), re-connected the battery, disconnected the SG, restarted the car, re-connected the SG, and CEL was gone. Thank God!

 

thats great to hear randy! im glad you can feel the response too. i bet it will help a lil bit with SCCA also. i love the deep roar sound the intake makes when you pound it, sounds sweet with my HFP muffler. i just got my headers too, cant wait to put it on

 

Yeah, looking forward to see how the intake feels @ the next event. Right on! Headers! Sweet!! Hmmm....you got a lot of T1R stuff.