+1 on that...i couldn't tell any difference with the car after i installed the rear anti-sway bar until i brought it to an autocross course...
i guess i'm just trying to get a feel for what the balance is with certain spring rates
what if your car is *god forbid* too loose once you install the arb?
I Highly doubt the car will be too loose. But my plan is if it is, to buy a stiffer front.
are you going to buy the progress one or try to fab one yourself?
for 150 shipped the time it would take me to fab one up just wouldnt be worth it so im buying the progress
i have stock springs and been to one autocross with the progress rear arb, and it feels 100x better than without it. i can just lift to get the car to rotate. i used to have to be very dramatic with the inputs to get the rear end to go anywhere, but now it's not the case. I think I want the car to be a little looser though so I can turn harder while accelerating out of a turn and be on the throttle earlier. the arb already pushed my throttle point a lot earlier which I was really happy about. it also made my lines much smoother
have you had any experience with stiffening up the car after you installed an arb. my thoughts are that if a car is stiffened with the same arb, the effectiveness of the arb will decrease (relatively). cause the difference in displacement of the two wheels will be smaller with stiffer springs which therefore decreases the force of the arb on the wheels. what are your thoughts on this? is there a point where an arb would not be useful anymore since the springs are already so stiff?
Yes, the point of a ARB like i stated earlier was to control side to side weight transfer withOUT affecting load transfer front to back and absorbing bumps. The stiffer you make the springs, the more you increase the roll resistance. If the springs are so stiff that they dont let the car roll much or at all obviously the ARB wont be affective. The same goes for a small ARB. If you install a 3mm ARB chances are you wont feel anything because itll just bend and the springs will stop the roll not the ARB.
i really wish there was a way to test out a setup before buying...
Oh thats the fun of suspension tuning! trial and error, it takes awhile. And once you think you've got it figured out, youll goto a new track and need a new setup lol
i'm thinking about 7kg/mm front and 9kg/mm rear springs (when i get around to it). i know it will be really stiff on the street(megan streets have stiffer so i think these should be decent), but i'm thinking this will really improve the grip and balance w/ the koni yellows when they come out.
This reminds me of another point. What tires will you normally run? Springs must be matched to the tires your running. The stickier the tire the stiffer the spring you need. The reason? More G load. The more grip a tire can give the faster you can carry in a corner, which transfers more load both in cornering side to side, AND in braking and accelerating front to rear. The T1R's (which were horribly over dampened so this is a tough example) had 6k springs front and rear. For your avg summer tire this was fine. But slap on my kumho v710's it was two soft causing too much roll.... visual example....
Old picture
But you can see the tire almost all the way up in the fender well. Granted i was low with this setup but that was way to much roll in the rear for those tires.
IMO i wouldnt go higher the 5kF 7kR. Which btw when buying eibach springs in the US it is much more popular to use the measurments in in/lbs or jjust lbs for short
This would roughly 275 F 400R
For reference what I run, mind you progressive BUT, 180F 350R
You may find it to be too soft, but if you driving it on the street i would start here.
i want to test to see at what rear spring rates does my car start three-wheeling and when it starts three-wheeling (braking/coasting/accelerating). once the car starts three wheeling there's no point in stiffening up anymore...right?
'3 wheeling' is caused may many different things and definitly should not be used as a tuning guide. And if you are on 3 wheels in a FWD during accel you have some serious issues lol
what kind of brake pads/fluid do you use?
HP+ up front with plans of swaping to a NSX front caliper 11.1" disc up front (still searchng for rear shoes, if i dont find any i may be forced to go with a disc conversion)
For fluid im using wilwood, but I got that for free but no complaints so far but again not really tested. I also now can get motul rbf600 for real cheap so will probably switch to that later on this year. Our race cars use this on stock sized brakes with no issues so with good pads im sure youll be fine.
For autox only the stockers are pretty decent and would perhaps just get a set of HPS or HP+ pads.