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Old 07-06-2009, 10:50 AM
Fluffywings Fluffywings is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalFit630 View Post
With the amp, what are you going for? Clarity or volume? I ask because I've noticed that the stock HU in the Fit is very weak, and worse, very noisy. The problem with that is if you amplify from the stock HU, the noise will only be worse. I'm sure plenty of people have done it and don't mind, and you may not mind, but it is something worth pointing out. So if clarity is important, you will have to upgrade the HU. If not, then no biggie!
Hmm interesting. That may be an issue. I don't want to upgrade the HU regardless but since I use my iPod for most of my music I may have to run an eq with switchable inputs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalFit630 View Post
About the Infitity speakers: be prepared for problems with clearance. I've installed a number of different Infinity model speakers, and there is almost always a problem with the speakers being way too deep for the door. The only times there isn't a problem is if it is a large SUV or truck. You will certainly have to purchase at least 3/4 inch speaker spacers to put them in.
I have found a couple of people on this that have installed these speakers so I know they can fit. Takes a small amount of effort but I have the right tools.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalFit630 View Post
Rear subs in door: Honestly, you really won't notice any difference from 6.5 inch dedicated subwoofers. These are bascially just standard door speakers that are only 1-way (vs 2 or 3 way). Also, more problems with clearance as they tend to have larger magnets. In my opinion, you should put 4 of the same speakers in the doors, put a 4 channel amp behind them (start with the stock HU and see how you like it) and see what it does for you. You may end up wanting to put a small sub into it. JL makes a great stealth sub that is self-powered and looks stock.
Th 6.5" subs are more for curiosity than anything. I wasn't sure if there would be a difference but I just want to find out. I won't install a true sub as I am not looking for SPL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalFit630 View Post
Components: I'm not bothering with components in the front as I don't want to cut my doors. There are some component speaker sets out there that have mounting options using a bracket (pretty sure Rockford does), but that usually involves a few screw holes, or glue if you're okay with them falling off all the time.
I am lazy. That is the only reason I don't components. More complicated install.

Thanks for your reply. You gave me a lot to consider.

As of now I am looking at the following but that may change because of your post.


6.5" Infinity Kappa 62.9/63.9 (Not sure yet)
6.5" Kicker CompVT Subwhoofers
Power Acoustik 1600/4 (Not sure whether STAX or BAMF as the only difference is the casing)
Line Out Convert (Not sure which one yet, I like variable)
EQ (To be determined based on SQ of above setup)

Some people may not know or like Power Acoustik's stuff. I have already owned some of their stuff and their amps are some of the best priced you can find.

My last system was stolen and I don't want to go through that ever again.

15" Orion H2 DVC 2Ohm w/ Custom Ported Box
Power Acoustik A3000DB (1900Wrms @12V) running at 1Ohm
AudioBahn AEQ8 5-Band
AudioBahn ABC600T Components Frontstage
Cheap Aftermarket Pioneer 5x7's Rear
Audiobahn 1 Farad Cap

*Sniffles* She will be missed forever..
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